Polynucleotides Are the Buzzy Skin Treatment Celebs Can't Get Enough of—Here's My Hot Take

Here are the facts. I'm 32 years old, I've never had dermal fillers or Botox, and I don't use expensive skincare or retinol products.

I feel like I'm perhaps behind on tweakments and injectables trends, and it's something I'm keen to explore as I find myself starting to note the changes in my skin, its texture and the appearance of fine lines as I get older. When polynucleotides came onto my radar, touted as the undetectable, celeb-approved procedure du jour, mostly popular for the under-eye area, I wanted to explore it.

As a fashion editor who wants to look and feel my very best, whether that be in front of the camera, on set, networking or at events, I'm conscious that my skin is at the very forefront of how I present myself, so I'm eager to keep my complexion in optimal health and condition from this point forward in my thirties, and my eye area is undoubtedly the zone I want to focus on.

Before my polynucleotides treatment, wearing makeup.

Speaking to my circle of friends, colleagues and acquaintances, who are also in my age group, I've learnt that many of them have already tried popular aesthetic treatments, such as Botox or fillers, in recent years, and their concerns focus primarily on the forehead, brows or the outer corners of the eyes. I've never felt that either of these injectables was the right solution for me; in particular, the idea of adding a toxin to my face has never quite appealed.

This is why polynucleotides really caught my attention, as they work on a molecular level with a slow and steady transformation process, which is much more natural and rejuvenative from the inside out. I headed to The Soni Clinic, based at The Langham Hotel in Marylebone, London, to see plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Ashwin Soni, a leader in this field, to see what the treatment could do for me.

Immediately post-treatment at The Soni Clinic.

What Are Polynucleotides?

Dubbed the "salmon sperm facial", polynucleotides were on every major news outlet and created a lot of social media chatter when they hit the mainstream (for obvious reasons), with many celebs noted as fans, including Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Aniston. Dr Soni is keen to set the record straight, though, telling me that polynucleotide treatments don't exactly use salmon sperm directly, but rather fragments that are extracted from the cells within either salmon or trout sperm.

These fragments are actually long chains of something called nucleotides (hence polynucleotides), which form the building blocks of DNA and RNA (ribonucleic acid, which performs genetic instructions within a living cell). They closely resemble the structure of human DNA, making them compatible for injection into the skin, but before that, they are meticulously selected, refined for purity and processed. Polynucleotides do not contain active proteins (this prevents immune responses).

When absorbed by the skin, polynucleotides target a specific receptor responsible for activating and stimulating collagen and elastin production, and most importantly, aiding regeneration on a molecular level. The whole idea is to regenerate the skin through cellular repair and hydration.

"Polynucleotides can be injected anywhere, literally," says Dr Soni. "You could treat the face, under-eyes, neck, décolletage, hands; really any part of the body, to be honest. There's nowhere that it can't be injected. The [products that we [inject] within clinics are [formulated to be] quite superficial, which means that it's close to the skin, because the whole goal of polynucleotides is they are treating skin quality and skin health, and [superficial injection is] the key."

The Soni Clinic, based at The Langham, London.

How Is This Treatment Different from Botox?

"This treatment is very different to Botox and fillers," says Dr Soni. "The major movement in the industry over the past few years has really been heading much more towards that undetectable era, and I think the days of the quick fix are behind us. We're really thinking very much about how we're improving patients' skin health over time and the things we can do to help with their ageing process. I'm constantly thinking about how my patients are going to age in the next five, 10, or 15 years, rather than just the immediate now. I think historically people were using fillers, for example, for that purpose."

"Fillers are still a very effective treatment, but obviously, it's very, very different in terms of the way that it works. Polynucleotides target a specific receptor within the skin and stimulate a chain of cellular metabolic pathways, which then increase collagen and elastin. It's hydrating and brightening, so it's really working on that skin health on the cellular level."

Why Is Collagen So Important for the Skin?

"We lose approximately 1% of our collagen per year starting from the age of 20," says Dr Soni. "Regarding the ageing process, a big part of that is the loss of your structural and supportive collagen, which leads to those changes such as a lack of elasticity, the lack of "bounce back", the texture changing and obviously a lack of hydration as well. We get more dehydrated as our skin gets older, too. So, to keep the skin more youthful, hydration is key to maintaining."

Why Is This Treatment Favoured by Celebrities?

People often talk about that natural, glowy look that resembles being "lit from within". Polynucleotides have fast become a popular choice for natural rejuvenation, slotting in well at the intersection of wellness and aesthetics. It's a desirable procedure to seek ahead of weddings, special occasions—and for celebs, red-carpet appearances—to freshen the face without looking "done".

"I treat a lot of A-listers and VIPs in my clinic personally," says Dr Soni. "In terms of why they like it, I think it's going hand in hand with that undetectable freshness and that beautiful natural rejuvenation, which the trends are moving much more towards. When clients are due to hit the red carpet, we need a few weeks for polynucleotides to do their thing."

So, if you're interested, plan your treatments ahead of time with your practitioner to ensure the very best results.

Who Is a Suitable Candidate?

"Anyone is a suitable candidate for polynucleotides, except those who are pregnant or breastfeeding," Dr Soni states. "Obviously, a comprehensive full medical history would need to be taken at the time of consultation, but really, anyone would be a suitable candidate. I do not advocate it for patients between 18 and 25. There's really minimal indication, if ever, for young people to do a treatment like this, but I think once people start losing a little collagen, it can be considered. Most of my patients fall between the ages of 30 and 70 on average."

How Long Does It Take to See Results, and How Long Do They Last?

This procedure is not a one-stop shop for instant gratification by any means. "It does take a little bit of time to see the results," explains Dr Soni. "It takes around 12 weeks to fully stimulate, beginning from that first session. So, over the weeks, it will get better and better, and ideally, you need those maintenance sessions every six or seven months. It doesn't mean to say the results are over [by then], but that you're basically maintaining those collagen reserves over time."

One day, this timeline may change. "There's a lot of innovation going on within this space, and so, over time, there may be polynucleotides that will last a little bit longer rather than doing it twice a year; however, at the moment, that's just based on a lot of scientific data and studies," he explains.

Personally, I'm very much into the idea of a slow-release effect, which is much gentler on the body and more efficacious on a deep, molecular scale. "The reason why it's delayed is that any biostimulator [the category of injectables that polynucleotides fall into] needs time to stimulate our cells, so it is not an instant, immediate result. The series of multiple treatments is because you need enough of a dose spread out over three sessions, primarily because you physically can't put that [high a dose] in one shot. So, if you take the under-eyes, for example, there's only so much that the area can accommodate, so it's better to space it out," continues Dr Soni.

How Do You Prepare for the Treatment?

Before visiting The Soni Clinic, with clean skin.

"There's very little to prepare for ahead of a polynucleotide treatment," says Dr Soni. "I always advise patients to avoid heavy alcohol consumption the night before. You may [also] want to avoid omega-3s, especially if you bruise easily, for up to at least a few days before."

Clean skin is preferable, but your practitioner will remove any makeup or skincare on the injection sites and disinfect them before injecting. A numbing cream will then be applied, and Dr Soni also used an ice pack on each side of my face afterwards to reduce any discomfort.

What to Expect During a Treatment

In the clinic with Dr Soni.

My experience with Dr Soni couldn't have gone smoother. We sat down and he briefed me on the procedure with his assistant, Amanda. The sides of my cheeks were cleansed and numbed with a topical cream and ice pack. What sets Dr Soni apart is that he only uses one injection site per side of the face. Some practitioners will do small and multiple injection points around the eyes, but this can lead to an almost dotted "reptilian" look, which I've heard can last for a few days afterwards.

Dr Soni opts for a more streamlined approach, which allows for quicker and more efficient recovery and adds to the undetectability factor. He did two injections utilising a cannula, each lasting no more than around 10 seconds. Pressure was then applied to those sites with cotton gauze, though I had next-to-no bleeding. No wound dressing was required, and I was able to walk out of the clinic with no fuss, albeit just a little bit of redness in the areas, which is to be expected.

What Aftercare Is Needed?

Post-treatment, Dr Soni advises holding off on physical activity for 24 to 48 hours. After day two, take it easy for a day or so. Avoid alcohol consumption the night of the treatment because it can increase your risk of bruising, and also avoid saunas and steam rooms for two weeks, as this exposure could exacerbate blood flow, swelling and bruising, which may hinder results and efficacy of the treatment. So go easy!

What Are the Risks?

"There are always risks associated," Dr Soni says. "In my experienced hands, especially in my hands as a plastic surgeon, the only things I've ever seen in my own personal practice are the occasional tiny pinpoint bruise, and, if any, a little bit of occasional mild swelling. Obviously, it does depend on what provider you go to. I've seen a lot more downtime after patients coming to me from other clinics, which includes a lot more extensive bruising and swelling. You have to select and research your provider well. Of course, there are blood vessels and nerves surrounding the under-eye, so providers have to understand the anatomy associated with the treatment area."

How Much Does a Treatment Cost?

At Dr Soni's clinic, polynucleotide treatment costs £500 per session.

My skin the morning after my session of polynucleotide treatment at The Soni Clinic.

My Verdict

I've had two sessions with Dr Soni now, and have my third and final scheduled in a couple of weeks. A few friends have remarked on my fresh and glowing skin and how it looks like I've had a great, deep sleep. I'm keen to see the full results at the 12-week mark, as this is the optimum time for the polynucleotides to do their best work. Already, though, the area directly under my eyes feels softer and appears rested, and my tear troughs look more blurred and not as noticeable as they once did, both with and without makeup.

This treatment isn't a cheap and quick fix by any means, particularly with the recommended six-to-seven-month top-up in mind. If you want to make the most of this science-backed and celebrity-approved skin booster, you really need to be going for those top-up sessions to promote and prolong the rejuvenation process.

For the price, I think this is really worth the money if your financial situation allows you to comfortably—it's not something long-lasting or dramatic enough to make it worthy of what we at Who What Wear UK call a credit-card purchase. With the care, attention and experience at the hands of a good practitioner, though (thank you again, Dr Soni!), it really is worth the long-term investment.

Disclaimer: It’s crucial to do thorough research into the aesthetics procedure and practitioner(s) you’re considering. For injectable treatments, we advise checking the GMC (General Medical Council), NMC (Nursing and Midwifery Council) and GDC (General Dental Council) registers to ensure your chosen practitioner is a registered medical professional with an active licence to practice medicine in the United Kingdom. Note that Botox (botulinum toxin) is a prescription medicine in the UK, and therefore can only be legally prescribed by a cosmetic or aesthetic doctor, surgeon, dentist (not a dental therapist or hygienist) or nurse prescriber after a face-to-face consultation. Dermal fillers and biostimulators (such as polynucleotides) are not prescription medicines, and can therefore be performed by non-medics (like an aesthetic practitioner, for example), though we still recommend seeking treatment with a doctor or nurse to ensure you are in the hands of someone who has the skill, experience and tools necessary to deal with any complications, should they arise. You can find recommended and vetted practitioners near you on The Tweakments Guide, or the BCAM (British College of Aesthetic Medicine) and BAMAN (British Association of Medical Aesthetic Nurses) registers. Additionally, the Government has recently announced a crackdown on unsafe cosmetic procedures, and amongst other measures, is urging the public to only visit practitioners at providers registered with the CQC (Care Quality Commission).