I'm an Aesthetician, and This Is the One Skincare Device I Recommend to All of My Clients

I'm an incredibly nosy person when it comes to beauty products, so I'm fortunate that, as an esthetician, it's part of my job to interrogate people about their skincare routines. I want to know whether you double cleanse at night, what your go-to sunscreen is, the order in which you apply your serums, and which moisturiser you swear by under makeup. In short, I love talking beauty—which also means I spend a lot of time recommending products and helping people to build and tweak their skincare routines, too.

My clients and I discuss everything from face masks and lip balms to supplements and tweakments, but one of the topics I've been most frequently asked about this past year has been LED skincare. Most significantly at-home LED masks—are they worth it, and which are the best ones?

at-home LED mask

(Image credit: @thatgracegirl)

In short, yes, they're totally worth it. As I always say to my clients—if you want to elevate your skincare routine and invest in a beauty tool, an at-home LED mask would be my top recommendation. They have benefits for a wide range of skin types and concerns and are actually very easy and low maintenance to use.

Want to learn more? Below I've answered my clients most-asked questions about at-home LED masks, and listed the devices I've tried and recommend.

What is LED and how does it work?

LED (light-emitting diode) light therapy uses low-level, skin-safe, and totally painless wavelengths light to improve skin’s appearance. Unlike other types of light, LED is safe for use on all skin tones and types because it doesn't contain ultraviolet (UV) rays.

There are a number of different LED colours to choose from, which are determined by the wavelength of the light. Each colour targets a different layer of the skin, and delivers specific skin benefits. The most well-researched and promising wavelengths of light are red, blue, and near-infrared light.

Red light therapy (633nm) reaches into the dermis (middle layer) of the skin, where collagen and elastin are produced. As a result, it's typically used to address signs of skin ageing that result from decreased collagen and elastin production—like loose skin, fine lines, and wrinkles. Red LED light therapy boosts cell energy for collagen and elastin production, leading over time to smoother skin and a reduction in the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Red LED light is also proven to reduce inflammation and improve circulation, which means it can help to treat inflammatory skin conditions, like rosacea, acne, and eczema.

Near-infrared light (830nm) penetrates even deeper within the skin, increasing cellular activity so that our cells behave more efficiently. It increases the skin's production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid to result in a firmer, tighter and brighter complexion. Near-infrared also reduces inflammation and pain by increasing blood flow and tissue oxygenation.

Blue light therapy (415nm) functions as a treatment for breakouts by killing off breakout-causing bacteria in the epidermis (upper layer) of the skin It also reduces excess oil production and increases hydration—hydrated skin is better able to balance oil production and promote skin healing. Furthermore, blue light increases blood circulation, which helps to eliminate toxins and provide nutrients to the skin.

One of my favourite things about LED light therapy is that it doesn’t require any physical stimulation of the skin, so it's suitable for even the most sensitive and easily-irritated complexions.

What should you look out for when buying an at-home LED mask?

When shopping for an at-home LED mask, the most important things to keep in mind are the amount of lights on the device (basically, the more, the better) and the irradiance coverage that the lights provide (the power per unit area of light that hits the surface illuminated).

It's also really important to check that the device specifies the exact wavelength of the lights that it uses, rather than giving a vague span.

Some devices claim to utilise other wavelegnths of light, like green and yellow, however there's not enough evidence to prove that these colours are effective.

To further ensure that the device you're buying will be safe and effective, look for further accreditations. Devices that are produced or sold in America will often be 'FDA-cleared' or 'FDA-approved'.

As a general rule, devices which tick all of the boxes above and are high-quality and well-made will cost upwards of £250, so don't be tempted by cheaper options, which may have compromised efficacy.

How do at-home LED masks compare to professional ones?

Professional LED devices used by skincare professionals in facials typically have hundreds more lights than at-home masks. This means they can offer a very powerful treatment in a short space of time, but it also means they're much more expensive—typically costing thousands of pounds.

At-home LED masks are designed to offer the best results possible at a more affordable price point. They still utilise the same effective technology, but will need to be used more frequently to see results.

What is the best at-home LED mask?

I've tried a number of different LED devices so am frequently asked this question, but most at-home masks have a very similar specification, and providing your device has all of the features listed above, there isn't necessarily one that's better than any other.

What I always advise clients to consider is what they want from a mask. Many have extra features, some are more travel-friendly the others, and some masks will offer a number of different lights whereas others will utilise just one.

To help you figure out what which at-home LED device will be best for you, I've listed my favourites (all tried and tested) below.

at-home LED masks

(Image credit: @thatgracegirl)

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Freelance Beauty Editor

Grace Day is a beauty editor and content creator. She has over 10 years of beauty-industry experience, spanning editorial, retail, and e-commerce, which gives her a unique understanding into how people shop for their beauty routines.While studying for a history degree (specialising in the history of beauty) and working as a beauty adviser in department stores, Grace started writing her own beauty blog in order to share the products she discovered while dealing with acne. After graduating, she moved to Beauty Bay as beauty editor and content manager. Grace is currently a beauty contributor to Who What Wear. She has also written for Hypebae and PopSugar and works as a brand consultant and copywriter.