If You Tend to Shy Away From Retinoids, This New Version Might Change Your Mind

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(Image credit: @marina_torres)

Retinoids in any form can be tricky, especially if you have sensitive, reactive, or barrier-damaged skin. I had to learn the hard way that prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin are not for me, and I'm still dealing with some of the skin damage it left behind. Recently, while getting a facial, I started chatting with my aesthetician about my skin struggles, and she mentioned that something called hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) might be good for my particular skin type. Obviously, that sounded like a mouthful and wasn't a type of retinoid I'd heard of before.

I'm always excited to learn about newer ingredients, and my aesthetician told me a little bit more about it. First, I guess you couldn't say that this is a totally new ingredient on the market that popped up a month ago. HPR has been around for a few years at least, but my aesthetician explained that it is a new-generation retinoid that helps bypass the adjustment period common with other retinoids and is more easily tolerated by sensitive skin. If you tend to shy away from retinoids because you're sensitive or your skin is reactive, you'll definitely want to keep reading. I'm sharing more info on HPR straight from a derm along with her recommended favorites.

What Is HPR, and How Is It Different From Other Retinoids?

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(Image credit: @gracealexandriaa)

If you're not familiar with this lesser-known retinoid, let me first explain what it is and how it's different from other retinoids. I reached out to board-certified dermatologists Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, and James Kilgour, MD, to break it down for us. "Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) is a type of retinoid that is considered an ester of retinoic acid," she explains. "This means that it tends to be more potent than traditional retinol without being as irritating as a prescription retinoid."

This type of retinoid can be particularly helpful for those with sensitive skin or those who are new to using retinoids for this reason. Garshick adds, "It can be a great option for someone who is unable to tolerate a prescription retinoid. Since it doesn't require as many steps to be converted to retinoic acid, unlike traditional retinol, it may be more effective than retinol while still being less irritating than a prescription retinoid, which is what makes it a good option for those with sensitive skin."

How Does HPR Work?

"Like tretinoin, HPR is similar in that it binds directly to the retinoic acid receptor within the skin's keratinocytes, triggering these skin cells to act more youthfully and resulting in decreased fine lines and wrinkles, more uniform pigmentation, and decreased tendency toward breakouts," Kiglour adds. "While this sounds great, tretinoin has a large body of scientific research proving its benefit for the skin and anti-aging, and while HPR is promising, it may not necessarily be as beneficial." Kilgour recommends introducing a retinoid product to your skincare lineup gradually, using it just three times weekly before building to nightly use as tolerated. In short, it's the over-the-counter version of tretinoin and is believed to act more gently, leading to decreased irritation, which is the major adverse side effect of tretinoin.

What Skin Types Is HPR Best For?

When it comes to determining if you should use HPR, rest easy in the knowledge that its gentle enough for use on all skin types but works especially well with those who deal with reactive, sensitive skin on the daily. "HPR is a suitable alternative to tretinoin for people with sensitive skin, especially those who have struggled to tolerate tretinoin in the past," says Kilgour. Like its predecessor, HPR requires after-care, meaning you should continue applying sunscreen after use and pay special attention to how your skin responds.

I'm excited to try this type of retinoid since I used tretinoin for years only to realize that it was way too strong for my sensitive skin and did my moisture barrier no favors. I'm still dealing with the damage, but I'm ready to incorporate a gentler retinoid like hydroxypinacolone retinoate. For expert-approved recommendations and a few more options with HPR, keep scrolling.

The Best HPR Products

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(Image credit: @nataliemckeough)

More Sensitive Skin–Friendly Retinoids

Shawna Hudson
Associate Beauty Editor

Shawna Hudson has worked in editorial for over six years, with experience covering entertainment, fashion, culture, celebrities, and her favorite topic of all, beauty. She graduated from California State University, Fullerton, with a degree in journalism and has written for other publications such as Bustle, The Zoe Report, Byrdie, Elite Daily, Mane Addicts, and more. She is currently an associate beauty editor at Who What Wear and hopes to continue feeding her (completely out-of-control) beauty obsession as long as she can. Stay up to date on her latest finds on Instagram @shawnasimonee.

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