According to an Aesthetician, This Key Fatty Acid Helps Curb Breakouts in a Big Way

Although I've been a beauty editor for years now, I still find that there's always more to learn about acne-prone skin. I've struggled with acne first hand and, of course, that journey led me to want to learn everything I could about the way my specific skin type functions and how I can care for it without totally wrecking it. Recently, I had the privilege of getting an incredible facial with Eminence Organic Skin Care's International Educator Brian Goodwin and I discovered something I didn't know, yet again.

After explaining to Goodwin my skin concerns (inflammation, congestion, and hyperpigmentation), he clued me in on something that isn't talked about as much when it comes to acne-prone skin. Goodwin told me that acne-prone folks are often low in an essential fatty acid called linoleic acid. If you're a skincare enthusiast like me, then you might already be familiar with both linoleic and oleic acid. Both are essential fatty acids, but linoleic is a polysaturated fat that can't be produced by the human body on its own and it belongs to the omega-6 fatty acid family.

"While we at Eminence didn't conduct a study ourselves, there's some interesting research out there about this topic," Goodwin told me. "Studies like this one have found that people with acne-prone skin tend to have lower levels of linoleic acid in their sebum than those who don’t experience breakouts. Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid that plays an important role in maintaining the follicular barrier and regulating sebum production. When linoleic acid is low, sebum can become thicker which makes it more likely to clog pores and lead to breakouts. It also affects the skin’s barrier. Without enough linoleic acid, the barrier can become compromised, leading to more inflammation and irritation. So, it’s really about how a lack of this one component can set off a cycle that contributes to acne."

There are so many different factors that go into acne and everyone's skin is different, but this is something I never considered might be an issue for me. Goodwin then told me all about the brand's Recovery Facial Oil ($85), an incredible product that I've used to the last drop before and only stopped because I ran out.

Even if you don't necessarily want to use a dedicated facial oil, you can still choose skincare products that contain linoleic acid-rich vegetable oils like sunflower, grapeseed, or soybean. Goodwin also has a few suggestions. "Sesame and olive oil can be great options. They help deliver the fatty acids that acne-prone skin needs to support the skin barrier and reduce the likelihood of breakouts."

Goodwin even says you can supplement your diet with these types of oils. "On the dietary supplement side, omega-3s and gamma linoleic acid (GLA) have been found to help reduce inflammation, which is a big part of acne," he explains. "The body actually converts linoleic acid into GLA, so supplementing with GLA-rich oils can help address breakouts. Borage seed oil or evening primrose oil are both good options, and it’s just a matter of seeing which one your skin responds to best."

If you're struggling with inflammation and breakouts, adding linoleic acid-rich products to the mix can definitely help, but Goodwin has some other advice. For starters, the number one mistake he sees those with acne making is over exfoliating." It's easy to fall into the habit of using too many clinical-level actives like glycolic acid, mandelic acid, and retinol all at the same time," he said. "But using a lot of actives can compromise the skin’s barrier and disrupt the microbiome. When that happens, the skin struggles to manage inflammation and protect itself from irritants which can make acne worse. If someone is in that situation, I always suggest starting with a professional skin analysis and consultation. A licensed esthetician or certified dermatologist can help figure out what [your] skin needs and create a routine that's more personalized."

Generally speaking, if your skin is stuck in a constant state of breakouts and inflammation, Goodwin also recommends doing an active ingredient reset. I've personally done this before when my skin was acting up and it worked wonders. "This means taking a break from exfoliating acids and retinols for an extended period of time (one to three months) depending on the extent of barrier repair needed," he shared. "During that time, I suggest keeping your routine simple with a gentle cleanser and moisturizer. Once you start to see an improvement, you can gradually introduce more supportive ingredients. Facial oils rich in linoleic acid like Facial Recovery Oil can be a great next step. You can also look into internal support, like borage seed oil supplements to continue managing acne and inflammation."

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