I Can't Stop Thinking About '90s Runway Looks—Here's How I'm Re-Creating Them

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661976599058-main

(Image credit: Firstview/Ann Demeulemeester)

Having been born in 1995, I've always felt like I missed out on the trends that shaped the '90s, when slinky slip dresses, minimal silhouettes, and sexy-yet-sophisticated styling reigned supreme thanks to designers like Calvin Klein, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Miuccia Prada, and more. Classic was the name of the game, as well as a stark contrast to the decade that followed—the decade in which I grew up and eventually discovered fashion in. 

Naturally, having never gotten the chance to truly experience '90s fashion, I've become a smidge obsessed with trying to re-create looks from the era, whether that finds me wearing linen trousers and a waistcoat à la Hermès from S/S 99 or a low-rise, knee-length skirt and tall boots inspired by Philosophy's S/S 00 show. Luckily, there's no shortage of outfit possibilities when you have an entire decade and thousands of covetable pieces to work with. 

Ahead, see how I go about bringing runway looks from the best decade in fashion—we're all entitled to our opinions—into 2022. 

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661976634501-main

(Image credit: Firstview/Hermès; @elizagracehuber)

I swear, my Pinterest board for spring 2022 includes every single look from this S/S 99 Hermès collection, which, in a nutshell, is the coastal grandmother trend before Diane Keaton ever caught Jack Nicholson rummaging through her gorgeous Hamptons kitchen in Something's Gotta Give. From white linen trousers and crisp button-down shirts to cashmere maxi skirts and waistcoat suits, the late '90s lineup could just as easily showcase on a runway in 2022. But because it's from the '90s, it's just, well, better. 

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661889031069-image

My take:
(Image credit: @elizagracehuber)

To bring my Pins to life, I started with a tan waistcoat from every fashion girl's go-to for chic tailoring: The Frankie Shop. Underneath it, I added a white muscle tee and then paired the duo with COS linen trousers that I've already told practically everyone I know about. To top off the minimalist re-creation, I threw on a '90s-esque pair of Le Specs (recently worn by Hailey Bieber) and Fendi Match sneakers, which simply jelled too well with the color scheme to skip. 

Shop the look:

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661976656395-main

(Image credit: Firstview/Calvin Klein; @elizagracehuber)

If you love pastels anywhere near as much as I do, then you simply must scroll through Calvin Klein's S/S 96 collection, which in addition to including baby-soft shades of blue, yellow, and pink, also features the prettiest maxi slip dresses I've ever laid eyes on. Modeled on the likes of Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista, the spring collection is surprisingly perfect for the fall season ahead, with pastels and maxi lengths making an unexpected rise to the top of our autumnal wishlists. 

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661888952353-image

My take:
(Image credit: @elizagracehuber)

After staring at the slip dresses in Calvin Klein's S/S 96 collection for hours, I couldn't help but purchase one for my own wardrobe. It didn't take long for me to discover this tank-style option from L'Agence, which is one of my longtime go-tos for anything silky. For me, personally, slip dresses are the easiest of all the different dress styles that are trendy right now, especially when they're extra long like this one. Paired with nothing but sandals and some simple jewelry, the silhouette speaks for itself—no effort necessary.

Shop the look:

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661976694676-main

(Image credit: Firstview/Philosophy; @elizagracehuber)

Though Philosophy's S/S 00 collection wasn't shoppable until the new millennium, it made its debut at the tail end of 1999, allowing it to slip itself into my '90s aesthetic by the skin of its teeth. Designed by then creative director and founder Alberta Ferretti (today, the brand is helmed by Lorenzo Serafini), the collection was the perfect mix of youthful femininity and utilitarianism, with frilly knee-length skirts, gingham corset tops, and cotton hot pants paired with hefty rain boots (not unlike the ones from Serafini's S/S 21 show) showing up throughout the 83-look collection. 

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661888915607-image

My take:
(Image credit: @elizagracehuber)

Though my love for rain boots is strong, I decided to re-create my version of Ferretti's S/S 00 collection for Philosophy sans the practical shoe style, opting instead to go with my favorite patent-leather knee-high boots from & Other Stories. In the process of putting my own spin on the late-'90s collection, I replaced the brand's mismatching top-and-skirt duo for Danielle Guizio's white Paloma set, which, after being worn by Bella Hadid, went viral and sold out earlier this summer. Similar in shape, the hyper-delicate set features a lace-and-ruffle corset-like top and a matching low-rise slip skirt that ends just above the knee. And don't fret—it's officially been restocked (for now). 

Shop the look:

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661976709055-main

(Image credit: Firstview/Ann Demeulemeester; @elizagracehuber)

According to Vogue, Ann Demeulemeester's S/S 98 collection, titled Corps Humain (Human Body) was one of the designer's all-time favorites. The collection, which was dually inspired by Dadaism and a poem by Allen Ginsberg called Footnote to Howl, is most known for featuring tank tops with the word "Holy" written across the front that Demeulemeester handed out to all 2000 guests. Perhaps my favorite look, though, was the one featured above—a floor-length, bodycon dress that despite being fairly simple, has stuck with me ever since I first saw it in a Pinterest board years ago. 

90s-runway-inspiration-301664-1661889032027-image

My take:
(Image credit: @elizagracehuber)

I couldn't quite find a dress worthy of re-creating that one coveted Demeulemeester original, however, I saw this two-piece set by Paris Georgia, and immediately noticed the similarities. I would normally never gravitate towards yellow just because of my skin tone, but the shape and drapiness of this bodysuit and skirt together made me overlook the shade (which I surprisingly ended up loving). The bodysuit is completely backless, making the look even more appropriate for a re-creation of Demeulemeester's iconic Human Body collection.

Shop the look:

More '90s-inspired pieces I'm eyeing for fall: 

Next: I'm Going Through a '90s Fashion Phase—35 Pieces Sitting in My Cart

Editor

Eliza Huber is a New York City–based fashion editor who specializes in trend reporting, brand discovery, and celebrity style. She joined Who What Wear in 2021 after almost four years on the fashion editorial team at Refinery29, the job she took after graduating with a marketing degree from the University of Iowa. She has since launched two monthly columns, Let's Get a Room and Ways to Wear; profiled the likes of Dakota Fanning, Diane Kruger, Katie Holmes, and Sabrina Carpenter for WWW's monthly cover features; and reported on everything from the relationship between Formula One and fashion to the top trends from fashion month, season after season. Eliza now lives on the Upper West Side and spends her free time researching F1 fashion imagery for her side Instagram accounts @thepinnacleoffashion and @f1paddockfits, running in Central Park, and scouring eBay for '90s Prada and '80s Yves Saint Laurent.