Yep, the Moda Operandi and Fifteen Percent Pledge Trunkshow Is Everything


(Image credit: Moda Operandi/Sukeina)

Launched in 2020, the Fifteen Percent Pledge envisioned a new future for retail: 15% of shelf space dedicated to Black-owned businesses and entrepreneurs. The percentage (which represents the demographic of Black people in the United States) seems minute at first glance, but in a climate where Black brands are historically looked over, the ask was radical. The idea for the pledge came to Brother Vellies Creative Director Aurora James following the murder of George Floyd as a way for companies to take actionable steps toward racial equity. In the span of a few years, the nonprofit organization has partnered with over 28 retailers, including Nordstrom, Macy's, and Sephora, funneling $10 billion in revenue toward Black-owned businesses in the process.

As the next phase of Fifteen Percent Pledge's vision, the nonprofit has partnered with Moda Operandi to spotlight Black designers making waves in fashion right now. The eight selected brands are featured in a special trunk show, where designs from each are available for pre-order for a limited time. Specially curated by James herself along with Moda Operandi's merchandising team, the roster of names includes buzzy emerging labels Head of State, Agbobly, and Sukeina—all of which were 2022 CFDA Fashion Fund Finalists—as well as AnOnlyChild and Dur Doux. Rounding out the ready-to-wear offerings in the show are Sunni Sunni, a unisex footwear line founded by designer Sunni Dixon, fine jeweler Lauren Godfrey's Harwell Godfrey, and James's own Brother Vellies. "I know firsthand the systemic barriers that Black business owners face in trying to increase their exposure to the larger retail market," says James. "Collaborations like these are not only crucial for building brand visibility but are an important step to push the industry forward by challenging how corporations approach supporting Black businesses long-term. Our partnership with Moda Operandi is rooted in the mutual desire to create a sustainable ecosystem for Black entrepreneurs, all while showcasing their incredible products and designs along the way." Bringing more talent to the forefront is definitely a step in the right direction toward greater racial equity in fashion.

To see and shop some of the incredible fashion highlighted within the special collaboration, keep scrolling below.

Head of State


(Image credit: @alizayuh)

It's been an eventful year for emerging brand Head of State. It became a 2022 CFDA Fashion Fund Finalist and helped close out New York Fashion Week this year with a packed, much-talked-about show. The brainchild of Taofeek Abijako, Head of State continually draws influences from Abijako's upbringing in Nigeria as well as his experiences as an activist. While Abijako has been a staple of the menswear circuit since 2018, recent focus has shifted toward his talent for modern and elegant eveningwear—as seen on Evan Mock at last year's Met Gala.



(Image credit: Moda Operandi/AnOnlyChild)

When Public School hit the New York fashion scene with its utilitarian-meets-streetwear designs over a decade ago, the label instantly became an industry darling. Following the brand's success, designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow were appointed as creative directors of DKNY—a crowning achievement for fresh faces in the business. But after growing pains, a shaky reboot, and the strains of the pandemic, Osborne shifted his focus to establishing his own project. Going solo, Osborne created AnOnlyChild in 2020, showcasing his first full collection in 2021. There are plenty of links to Osborne's Jamaican heritage within the collection, like old-school floral prints and silk separates made to look like classic mesh shirts in Rastafarian colors. 

Dur Doux


(Image credit: @hannahbronfman)

A look at Dur Doux's most recent collection is like a boost of vitamin C for the eyes. Founded by mother-daughter team Cynthia and Najla Burt, Dur Doux is exactly what you'd want to pack for a five-star tropical vacation. Think floral-printed separates and vibrant evening dresses in juicy citrus shades.

Brother Vellies


(Image credit: @brothervellies)

While most luxury shoe brands use "made in Italy" as their big selling point, Brother Vellies does things differently. Brother Vellies employs local artisans from around the world, with much focus on supporting local craftsmanship in Kenya. Since its founding in 2013, the accessory label has turned into a fashion-person favorite with statement boots and heels that instantly catch the eye.



(Image credit: Agbobly)

You know a Jacques Agbobly knit when you see it: vivid threads of yarn in cheerful knit arrangements usually finished with some type of cool beading. Agbobly is only 25 years old, but the Parsons alum is already a CFDA Fashion Fund Finalist and has captured the attention of the industry's most seasoned editors. With each new collection, the designer infuses elements of his upbringing in Togo along with the traditions of West African culture.



(Image credit: Moda Operandi)

Power colors and power silhouettes are what define Sukeina. Known for his elaborate, origami-like folds, Creative Director Omar Salam constantly challenges the idea of romance with exact shapes and hard edges. The result is striking and sophisticated pieces that take up space and send a message.

Sunni Sunni


(Image credit: @poshmckoy)

Sunni Sunni might as well be Hollywood's best-kept secret. Its signature square-toe boots have graced the feet of everyone from Burna Boy and Usher to Diddy and Yahya Abdul-Mateen II. Despite Sunni Sunni's clientele heavily skewing male, founder Sunni Dixon designs with all genders in mind. The utilitarian boots can help pull together a pair of high-waist jeans and a sweater as effortlessly as a breezy maxi dress. 

Harwell Godfrey


(Image credit: Harwell Godfrey)

Everything has meaning for jeweler Lauren Godfrey—right down to the type of stone and its arrangement. Godfrey is the woman behind Harwell Godfrey, a line of fine jewelry inspired by the African diaspora. Each precious stone is a beacon for healing as well as a pretty accessory. Godfrey weaves together ancient rituals and spiritual affirmations within her pieces for a unique feel-good approach.

Up next: Grandmas Love It, and It Girls Do Too: How Hosiery Had a Big Comeback in 2023

Fashion Market Editor

Indya Brown is a fashion editor, stylist, and writer living in Los Angeles. While going to school at Columbia University in New York City, she got her feet wet in the fashion industry interning at Elle magazine, Harper's Bazaar, and New York magazine's The Cut. After graduating in 2016, she joined The Cut as a fashion assistant, eventually working her way up to fashion editor. There, she worked on a multitude of projects, including styling inbook feature stories for New York magazine's print issue, writing and pitching market stories for The Cut, and serving as fashion lead for The Cut's branded content. While New York has been her home for over 10 years, she moved to Los Angeles in the midst of the pandemic in 2020 for a new chapter. Now she is a fashion market editor for Who What Wear, focusing on emerging designers, rising trends on and off the internet, interior design, and BIPOC creatives and brands. Aside from her duties as a fashion market editor, Brown is also a freelance stylist and writer, working on national print and video commercial campaigns for Sephora, The Independent, and Cadillac. Her bylines also include Harper's Bazaar, Vox, and The New York Times. But once the computer goes down and the emails turn off, she's likely eating her way through Koreatown, hunting down vintage furniture, scoping out new outrageous nail designs to try, or taking a hot cycling class.