Sometimes, it really is the simple things in life. For years, I thought that my acne would only clear up if I used multiple serums to correct various issues and curated a maximalist-style routine, but celebrity aesthetician Sofie Pavitt set me straight. Pavitt is known as NYC's "acne whisperer" for a reason. She's able to clear up even the most stubborn acne at the drop of a hat, and her advice on how to do it is refreshingly simple. "The fact of the matter is that clients first come to me using way too many products in their routine," she says. "I love to pare it back when first working with someone on clearing their skin to cleanse, treat, and hydrate. You cleanse the skin to prep it to receive treatment, you treat your personal skin concerns, and then you hydrate. It's really that simple."
If you're like me and had trouble fathoming that a super-simple routine (one that Pavitt even deemed as "boring") could do the trick, then you're going to want to listen up. Pavitt shared a simple routine for me to follow that I'm sharing below, plus the latest launch in her eponymous skincare line that boosts your results.
The Biggest Mistakes People With Acne Often Make
I didn't realize how badly I was contributing to my own problem until Pavitt told me a few key mistakes those of us with acne often make. For starters? Using retinoids. That may seem ridiculous to anyone who has been told otherwise for years (me being one of them), but Pavitt informed me that my inflamed, sensitive skin would calm down if I stopped using them. She said, "[The biggest mistake I see is] using tretinoin or retinol products on inflammatory acne," she explains. "Retinols increase cell turnover, and people with acne generally have faster cell turnover than others who aren't predisposed to acne. I get the best results when I take clients off retinols (especially tret, which is super strong and irritating), get them clear with Mandelic Clearing Serum and benzoyl peroxides, then slowly reintroduce a retinol to maintain alongside their low and slow daily exfoliation."
As someone who used tretinoin on inflammatory acne for five years before quitting it cold turkey, I can definitely back her up on that. My skin hasn't been the same since, and it's been a long road to recovery. Now that I've quit retinoids altogether like Pavitt suggested during a facial, my skin has calmed down massively. I didn't realize it, but ironically enough, the strong retinoid I was using was actually making my skin more inflamed, sensitive, and prone to acne. But don't worry—Pavitt gave me the routine to follow instead.
How to Clear Your Acne in 3 Easy Steps
Everyone's skin is different, and you may want to start slowly when trying this routine out, as exfoliants and benzoyl peroxide can be irritating for those who have super-sensitive skin. I went a little too hard on it at first, and it didn't go well, so consider this a PSA for anyone with similar struggles. That being said, Pavitt shared the boring yet easy and effective routine she likes to put her clients on when clearing acne.
First, in the morning, you start with a hydrating cleanser that doesn't strip the skin. Second, you treat with a low-grade exfoliating serum, like Pavitt's Mandelic Clearing Serum ($54) that provides irritation-free exfoliation. Lastly, you hydrate with a noncomedogenic moisture—that's it! At night, you'll essentially follow the same routine, but instead of exfoliating, you'll opt for some type of benzoyl peroxide treatment on the areas you're congested. Be careful with this step, as this is where I inevitably went wrong (lol). My skin normally hates benzoyl peroxide, and I only use it to spot-treat, so if you have similar skin, use it sparingly and start application at a couple times a week before gradually increasing if your skin can tolerate it.
Pavitt says to keep it super boring while clearing up your skin—it's the best way to get results. In addition to these three steps, you can opt for Pavitt's newest launch, Fridge to Face Mist ($38). This hydrating, blemish-fighting mist can be used after cleansing and before treating or throughout the day to refresh your skin.
Pavitt's gentle, hydrating cleanser is perfect to use as the first step in your routine because, as Pavitt says, it's a gel cleanser that thinks it's a cream cleanser. It's hydrating enough not to strip the skin but cleansing enough to banish dirt, excess oil, and pore-clogging debris.
This mist is totally unique. If you assumed it's a hypochlorous acid spray, think again. It's actually a postbiotic-rich formula that supports clearer skin and a healthy moisture barrier. "I love Fridge to Face," says Pavitt. "We stand behind cryotherapy as something that can really calm tired, stressed skin in the studio, and with Nice Ice ($48) in our line being a cryotreatment for one to two times of weekly use, Fridge to Face is something you can use daily. I love hypochlorous acid, but I don't love that it disrupts other ingredients. We used a postbiotic ferment in our formulation, which is creating that shield from bacteria on the skin, alongside B vitamin, antioxidants like panthenol and niacinamide, and our cooling essence. I saw someone reviewed it and said it was like a breath mint for your face. How fun is that? Feels so refreshing."
To me, this is the holy-grail step. The Mandelic Clearing Serum is great for exactly my type of skin—skin that's reactive, sensitive, and barrier damaged but still in need of some gentle daily exfoliation. What's even better is that Pavitt designed it directly for that. She just gets it. Again, if you're experiencing reactivity or have used stronger retinoids in recent days, try removing them first and starting slowly so you don't aggravate your skin further. Mandelic acid is a larger-molecule exfoliant, so it's way less irritating on the skin than salicylic or other stronger acids. It really gets the job done and doesn't cause me any further barrier damage, which is a huge plus.
Pavitt told me that many of her clients were begging her for a richer moisturizer they could use while clearing up their skin. Omega Rich Moisturizer was born because of it. Let me tell you—she is thick. It's so hydrating and leaves your skin with an incredible glow but doesn't clog your pores or cause further breakouts. It's the perfect step to seal in your simple routine.
Like I mentioned above, my skin usually does not respond kindly to benzoyl peroxide, but this little treatment is one of the only ones it can tolerate. It contains a small but mighty dose of 5% benzoyl peroxide along with other zit-reducing ingredients, such as glycolic acid and kaolin clay. Like I said, start slow with this one if you have similar skin, but the results are great if you can figure out the right cadence of use for you.
More Products That Cleared My Skin
This is the only probiotic serum I've tried so far that actually works in the long run. It adapts to your skin's microbiome and goes to work on the areas that could use some healing. I noticed a huge difference in clarity and barrier healing after just a month of use. I use it every morning, and I feel like it has been integral in calming reactivity and clearing my acne.
I had to take a break from my routine when my skin became more inflamed after going too hard on the benzoyl peroxide and exfoliants. An aesthetician recommended I try this organic cream, which provides all the benefits of retinol without irritating your skin. It worked surprisingly well for me as a final step in my routine. It helped clear some acne and dark spots in record time—the only downside is the smell is a bit off-putting. It's pretty fragrant, so keep that in mind if you're sensitive to scents.
This clarifying mask from Klur has been my ride or die for years. On days when I could use deeper exfoliation, I opt for this. The first time I used it, I was surprised by how easily and quickly it reduced my breakouts without any stinging or irritation. It's perfect for sensitive, reactive skin, and it smells amazing.
Okay, I have to preface this by saying that Pavitt doesn't recommend oil cleansing when clearing up your acne, but it works really well for me. I actually find that my skin sometimes reacts badly to traditional surfactants, too, even if they're gentler than most. A good oil cleanse in the morning leaves my skin feeling less dehydrated, and I'm obsessed with this one from Emma Lewisham. I will wax poetic about Lewisham and her products at a later date, but this cleanser has a lot of glide to it but decongests the skin with ease and washes off so easily. It's a staple for me now, and I don't see myself going back to a traditional cleanser in the morning anytime soon. My skin has calmed down tremendously after taking Pavitt's no-retinol advice and sticking to a morning oil cleanse.
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