Seoul Fashion Week Just Defined What Cool Will Look Like Next Spring
Move over, Paris. There's a new fashion capital in town that feels like a breath of fresh air. Of course, I'm talking about Seoul, South Korea.
In an industry where more and more people are finding themselves feeling excluded or dismayed by major runway players, Seoul Fashion Week challenged the system. With 30 home-grown designers showing on the calendar this year, the week-long fashion showcase and trade show felt more akin to a community rather than a redundant display of clothing—something this editor feels has gone on for way too long in major cities.
This year, Seoul Fashion Week didn't just feel like a step in a new sartorial direction, but rather, it felt like a bubbling case study in the new wonders of a modern fashion world. Over the last months, Seoul Fashion Week (held September 5 to September 9 for the Spring/Summer 2024 season) has made incremental progress to be taken seriously as the next fashion capital: the appointment of It girl ambassadors New Jeans and the move towards an earlier time-frame have made the Seoul Metropolitan Government—the agency who puts on the festivities— a major player in the fashion landscape.
For a city promising to lead the charge on turning the fashion industry on its head, it's only fair and just to examine the trends these up-and-coming designers expect will dominate 2024. Below, browse all the stunning runway trends from Seoul Fashion Week Spring Summer 2024, including a few fan-favorite looks that have already made their way over to New York.
Utility-Core
While wearability proved to be an extreme point on thr runways of Paris, Milan, and London last season, Seoul's focus of highly-functional, gorp-core-sque materials and silhouettes made a lasting impression. Aside from traditional silhouettes associated with the style like nylon jackets, fastenings, and oversize pockets, Seoul Fashion Week's roster of showing designers proved that yep, you can step out of the house looking like you're about to go camping and still, somehow, feel incredibly chic.
Pretty Things
By far, one of the biggest trends of the last year taking up my brain space has to be a notice of delicate, feminine attention to detail. Cascading ruffles, simple bows, and an array of pastel colors makes this Seoul Fashion Week trend one of many that the cool girls tend to gravitate towards.
Sweeping Shorts
Shorts? For spring? At first glance, you'd think the concept it's groundbreaking, but per Seoul Fashion Week's designers, shorts in the upcoming warmer months are going to get way, way bigger. From puffy oversize silhouettes at Demoo Parkchonmoo to longer, tailored hemlines at Lie and 02 Armoire, this rising shorts trend feels like it's about to everywhere next year.
All That Glitters
Seoul and it's incredibly fashionable set of boundary-pushing designers have made it clear: there's always an occasion to be somewhat extra. Case in point: the over-the-top glitter and sequin garments often grouped into the fall and winter seasons are back and better than ever in time for the spring. While you can wear a head-to-toe glitter look, a few of Seoul's designers opted for subtle pops of shimmer, adding sequins to pants, jackets, or skirts for a playful look.
Reds and Blues
Over the last few months, it felt like you couldn't go anywhere without hearing a fashion person decree that red is the new black. While the designers at Seoul Fashion Week are fully on-board with the fiery hue, it's cooler, chiller cousin is making an appearance throughout a few of the major collections: chic cobalt. If you're looking for a sign to ditch your simple grey wardrobe next year, let it be this.
Fancy Pants
If there's anything you need to know about Seoul Fashion Week, it's that the subversive crowd tends to win. While you'd thnk the arrival of spring promises simple pants and floral-patterned dresses, the South Korean brands to watch are far more interested in creating a pair of jaw-dropping statement pants. Whether it's full-on silver cargo pants or simple puddle denim with white printed splotches, there's something for every sartorial taste if you're heading out to a party and in-need of major leg action.
Ana Escalante is an award-winning journalist and Gen Z editor whose work ranges from dissecting size inclusivity at fashion week to discussing how American Girl Doll meme accounts are the the answer to society's collective spiral. She's covered it all: Queen Elizabeth II's corgis, Roe v. Wade frontline protests, and the emergence of jorts (or jean shorts for the uninitiated). At Who What Wear, Ana is responsible for delivering smart, insightful, personality-driven shopping guides and trend features for a digital-first generation.Before joining Who What Wear, Ana was Glamour magazine's editorial assistant, where she focused on daily news and special packages, including leading the brand's 2022 Met Gala coverage. For more than half a decade, she has covered style, beauty, and digital culture for publications such as Paper magazine, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue Japan, and Allure, among others. Ana has been called a rising star in media by publications such as Nylon and Teen Vogue. (Her mother, meanwhile, calls her "the coolest person" she knows.)