Zimmermann has long been the go-to resortwear brand for the best-dressed global travellers. With its spring/summer 2027 collection, however, the Australian label proved it is so much more than that: it can easily hold its own at Paris Fashion Week, where it just presented an array of romantic, ethereal pieces with incredible craftspersonship at their core.
Fittingly named “Kaleidoscope”, the collection muses on movement, strength and colour, all of which amplify the signature Zimmermann aesthetic. It’s feminine without being too girly, romantic without being saccharine; from gloriously draped pieces to voluminous silhouettes, these clothes really move with you as you wear them. The title also refers to the motif at heart of S/S 27 for the brand: the butterfly, by way of the 19th-century scientific illustrations of Harriet and Helena Scott, resulting in a kaleidoscope of butterflies.
Laser-cut and hand-sewn, they are individually placed to add a surrealist, lifelike dimension to skirts, fluttering with the wearer as they move, and appliquéd with petals to decorate a gilded bodice. Explaining her fixation with the butterfly for next season, creative director Nicky Zimmermann said: “I found myself drawn to it, not because of its delicacy, but because of its resilience. There’s a real strength in the way it moves and constantly transforms, and that became an important thread throughout the collection.”
An abundance of lace enhances the romantic sensibility of the pieces, used in innovative ways to create tension between the ethereal and the pragmatic. It’s cut in athletic stripes, for example, and spliced with silk; a cream, lace-panelled skirt is paired with a sporty, cross-over bralette worn under a draped satin jacket. There are also softly tailored co-ords, but when the delicate fabric appears in the form of high-neck tops and cargo trousers, it creates a juxtaposition that feels indicative of exactly what the modern woman wants to wear right now. This is further cemented by the collection’s denim.
If you thought you’d seen it all when it comes to denim, think again. In Zimmermann’s hands, the humble fabric is transformed by demi-couture techniques: bonded, laser-cut flowers are hand-sewn along the length of wide-leg silhouettes and longline shorts, whilst embroidered pieces are enriched with cut-out botanical motifs. Flared jeans and sculptural jackets also help to show off the brand’s prowess when it comes to reinventing a classic, everyday fabric. This is denim that truly can navigate day-to-night dilemmas and defy dress codes; much like the rest of the offering, it begs to be worn for the most special events in your life, and yet it retains a feeling of effortlessness.
Sheer organza skirts, easy, fluid culottes and floor-sweeping lace gowns are amongst the standout pieces here, whilst the four distinct colour palettes evoke the feeling of progressing through a sunny spring day into the most beautiful dusk: lemon yields to pink, which in time gives way to moody blue and dusty lilac. It recalls the seasons’ changing light, adding yet more movement to a collection that already feels so full of life. A kaleidoscope of print, texture and meticulous details, Zimmermann’s S/S 27 collection is made for the multi-faceted woman who dresses with joy.
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