Welcome to Icons Only, Who What Wear UK’s deep dive into classic fashion pieces that are again under the spotlight. This month, Who What Wear UK's Rebecca Rhys-Evans charts the rise and rise of one of the most noteworthy jewellery collections of all time: the Cartier LOVE collection.
When it comes to jewellery, few pieces are as classic or recognisable as Cartier’s LOVE collection.
Its refined design with a simple twist screw closure shows that the true beauty of the collection is its symbol of commitment made through its permanent locking mechanism. From its inception, the Cartier LOVE bracelet was never just about beauty (although, yes, each piece is a thing of true beauty and expert artistry); it was about devotion, and perhaps most of all, intention. In a world where love can often feel ephemeral, even fleeting, Cartier presented an idea that felt refreshingly bold: what if your jewellery—like real love and commitment—could be locked in?
First designed in the late 1960s—an era synonymous with cultural revolution and rebellion—the LOVE bracelet, the first piece in what is now a collection, has become more than just a coveted accessory by fashion insiders. It’s a quiet declaration, a modern heirloom and a story of love sealed in 18k gold. But how? It’s simple. With the idea that the bracelet would require a miniature screwdriver to be closed and opened, and would be fastened by one partner onto the wrist of the other, thus binding those two people together.
Over its 56-year history, the bracelet's design has evolved and the collection has grown, but the concept remains the same. Its classic, unisex silhouette is the true essence of timeless style; it transcends seasonal trends and is one of the most well-known and desired jewellery collections of our time, sitting alongside other signature pieces by the Maison, such as the Panthère de Cartier, the Tank watch and the Trinity jewellery collection.
But how has this bracelet, designed all those years ago, become such a signature piece in the most elevated capsule wardrobes, and an icon in its own right? Ahead, we look at the history and legacy of the Cartier LOVE collection.
The Design History of the Cartier LOVE Bracelet
The story began in 1969 in New York, just two years after the famed Summer of Love, with Italian-born designer Aldo Cipullo, then working for Cartier New York. In an era so entrenched in free love, counterculture and change, Cipullo was offering something different: commitment. Rather than something to be bought for occasional wear or as a showy ornament, the LOVE bracelet was designed to be worn constantly, secured to the wrist by a screwdriver.
The bracelet was designed to show a locked mechanism, with its visible screws along the exterior, this "locked-in love" actually became its signature detail. What started as the simple unisex 18k gold bangle over time grew to a collection of rings, bracelets, pendants and more. Cartier created a version set with diamonds, another in white gold, and today, after over 50 years, we also have the new LOVE Unlimited Collection
The LOVE Unlimited Collection
The latest evolution of this iconic collection is LOVE Unlimited: a fully flexible bracelet that curves around the wrist. Like a true partnership, the bracelets are designed with pairing in mind and can be attached by people to each other. Its ergonomic, supple frame is an innovative progression from the original bracelet, and it hugs the wrist like a second skin. For this latest edition, Cartier devised a patent-pending invisible clasp system. The new design saw the Maison produce over one hundred prototypes before it was ready, demonstrating the care and skilfullness involved to get it to where it is today.
Whereas the very point of the original LOVE bracelet was to never be removed, this new, fluid iteration is much easier to take off. Made with up to 200 specially miniaturised components and the new invisible clasp, it can be easily linked with other bracelets for a bespoke layered-chain effect, and still tells the same limitless love story.
LOVE Today: Style Over the Decades
Although almost 60 years old, the Cartier LOVE collection has an everlasting presence in the wardrobes and collections of the most fabulous fashion folk, celebrities and style icons. It originally became an instant hit when the French luxury Maison bracelets became the sentimental gift of choice for famous romantic couples of the time; think Hollywood singers, actors and even royalty. Today, it is not only seen as a statement of love between couples, but a stylish, classic piece that is bought, worn and loved in its own right—most recently seen on British singer-songwriter Olivia Dean, who wore the iconic bracelet throughout her new music video "So Easy (To Fall In Love)".
The epitome of timelessness, it can be styled in both elevated and everyday settings, and is a hardworking and simple yet effective staple that is regularly seen on red carpets, fashion-week-street-style moments and your daily Instagram scroll. Often gifted for a celebratory occasion, like a big birthday or a milestone moment, the Cartier LOVE collection is a go-to for a special gift or investment piece, and is, without doubt, one of the signature modern heirlooms of our time.
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