Out of all the skincare ingredients out there, I'd argue that retinol is the equivalent of the It girl. It seems like everyone is using it or, at the very least, being recommended it by their dermatologist. In case you didn't know, the buzz behind this ingredient stems from the fact that it speeds up your cell turnover to reveal brighter, more even skin.
There are, however, a couple of caveats that make some people a bit hesitant to start incorporating it into their skincare routines: retinol reek and retinol purging. The latter happens because faster skin cell turnover also means that whatever bacteria is trapped under the surface comes up at a faster rate, according to board-certified dermatologist Dara Spearman, MD. This often leads to a temporary but noticeable increase in acne, among other issues. (Shout-out to pimple patches and spot treatments for coming in handy!)
If you're curious about how to avoid an intense purge period and pro tips on how to manage it, keep reading for all the details.
What is a retinol purge?
A retinol purge, sometimes referred to as the "retinol uglies," is when the skin has a temporary reaction due to the use of retinol. This tends to lead to a worsening of acne because of the "changes in the normal cell turnover that occur as a result of using retinol products," says double board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD. While it might be frustrating to go through, the purge period is temporary.
The biggest difference between a regular breakout and a purge is how long it lasts "Retinol purges occur most often around three to six weeks after starting a new product," says Camp. "Unlike regular acne, which persists, retinol purges are often self-limited, meaning they resolve or lessen upon continued use of the product." Unlike most acne breakouts, a retinol purge might also lead to other side effects like redness, scaling, flaking, and dryness, says Spearman.
Is it possible to avoid a retinol purge?
Unfortunately, everyone will go through some sort of purge, but the intensity of it will look different depending on the individual. Rather than attempting to avoid it altogether, focus on setting yourself up for a smooth transition.
Spearman recommends starting out using a pea-sized amount of retinol two to three days per week. You should also stick with lower concentrations of retinol (about 0.25%) to avoid irritation, and moisture is key. "Use a daily moisturizer with ceramides or niacinamide to keep skin well-hydrated," says Spearman. "You can even do the moisturizer sandwich method, where you would apply it before and after retinol application."
How to Manage a Retinol Purge
So you're experiencing retinol purge for the first time and are unsure how to get it under control. In addition to being mindful of what you need to avoid, you can minimize the side effects by using emollients with glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to soothe irritated skin, says Spearman. Camp adds that your should be wearing SPF daily and avoid picking at any acne that comes to the surface, as picking can lead to scarring and increase the risk of infection.
You might be tempted to stop using retinol to reverse the breakouts caused by the purge, but both experts agree that it's best to push through the first few weeks while your skin adjusts. "Retinols are very beneficial to the overall health of the skin, so if you can adjust, I would recommend continuing the use," says Spearman.
If you have sensitive skin, you may have to be a bit more cautious or consider retinol alternatives. "Wait 10 minutes after washing your face before applying a retinol if you have sensitive skin," says Camp. "Doing so may limit the ability of the product to penetrate your skin." He also suggests mixing retinol with moisturizer or swapping out retinol entirely for gentler options like azelaic acid and bakuchiol.
What to Avoid During a Retinol Purge
It goes without saying that sometimes mixing certain skincare ingredients should be avoided—such as benzoyl peroxide and hydroquinone or vitamin C and benzoyl peroxide. So it's no surprise that something as strong as retinol also has a few combinations that need to be avoided.
"You should avoid products with ingredients that can cause more irritation such as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide," says Spearman. "This combination will lengthen the retinol purge and cause more irritation." If you think that using more retinol will help you speed up the purge, think again. Camp notes that adding more retinol to your regimen can dry your skin out even more.
Should I see a dermatologist before starting retinol?
If you're thinking about starting retinol, it's best to consult a board-certified dermatologist for the best approach to match your needs and preferences. You should also visit your doctor if you're already managing a retinol purge and your skin does not improve within six weeks despite using over-the-counter products to ease your symptoms.