If there’s one celebrity whose style I consistently turn to for inspiration, it’s Dakota Johnson. With years of collaboration with stylist Kate Young under her belt, Johnson has curated a wardrobe that balances her famous nonchalance with a natural refinement, and her latest look is the perfect example of this delicate equilibrium.

Selecting a blouse that elegantly draped down her frame, rather than clinging to it, the flower-embroidered design added a sweet air of whimsy and a natural elegance that felt perfectly in tune with Johnson's casually polished style. With its boxy cut and delicate floral details, the piece evoked a sense of vintage charm, as though it had plucked it herself from a tucked-away Parisian market.

Rather than styling her vintage blouse with tailored trousers or a flowing skirt, Johnson paired the ethereal top with a pair of baggy jeans, creating a little bit of tension, without making her look feel fussy. While in my eyes, baggy jeans always look chic, there are few top trends that can actually make the silhouette look elegant—Johnson's vintage-looking blouse, however, was one of them.

Stepping into a slip-on pair of black heeled sandals, Johson layered in another level of elegance in the easiest way.

Read on to shop my edit of vintage blouses and baggy jeans below.

SHOP VINTAGE BLOUSES AND BAGGY JEANS:

There’s nothing better than being complimented on an item that you consider a really special discovery. Sometimes that’s a bargain, sometimes it’s an unknown brand, but most commonly for the Who What Wear UK editors, it’s something secondhand. Each month, a different editor will share the pre-loved buy they’re proud they managed to track down for The Thrift List, providing guidance and inspo should you be looking for something similar.

Up first, it’s news writer Natalie Munro, a longtime secondhand-shopping devotee whose wardrobe mostly contains clothes and accessories living their next best life.

My friends have learned to approach questions about my outfits with a certain cautious curiosity, because the answer is rarely as simple as a quick high-street link. More often than not, I’ll launch into a detailed breakdown of a particularly fruitful charity shop haul or share the many Vinted search terms I tested before unearthing my latest gem. The truth is, some of the best pieces in my wardrobe are secondhand, and tracking them down is one of my favourite hobbies.

My latest success story? A vintage leather bomber jacket that's racking up compliments on every outing. Ever since Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2025 runway show back in September, I’ve had my sights set on this very silhouette—a nod to classic aviation styles, reimagined in deep black leather. Sleek, minimal and impossibly cool, it’s the kind of jacket I find myself reaching for over blazers right now—easygoing yet elevated and perfect for the unpredictable spring weather.

Of course, I wasn’t looking for just any leather bomber. I had a specific shape in mind: voluminous through the body, cinched at the hem and with a high neckline to give it that slightly cocooned silhouette. A few weeks of diligent searching followed; my secondhand-shopping method always involves a bit of patience and plenty of platform-hopping. I checked multiple resale sites, set alerts for my keywords and let the algorithm catch onto my mission. Eventually, it paid off. I scored a vintage St. Michael leather bomber on Vinted for just £25. A true treasure.

Secondhand shopping is a labour of love, which is part of the appeal, and when it comes to shopping for leather in particular, it’s always my preferred route. Nearly every leather piece I own—jackets, belts, boots—has been sourced secondhand. Not only is leather incredibly durable, but as a longtime vegetarian, it’s also the only way I can reconcile my love for the material. I still get the chic look and feel, but with a little less guilt attached.

If you've also been tempted by the season's chicest leather bomber jackets, why not start by shopping pre-loved? I've rounded up some of the best secondhand leather bomber jackets available now, so scroll down to find your prize.

SHOP PRE-LOVED LEATHER BOMBER JACKETS:

The Luxury List is a monthly column on all things luxury, exploring cult items from heritage brands, tapping the foremost experts in the fashion space, and doing deep dives into the investment pieces that are worth it.

Twenty years after its debut in the Chloé S/S 05 show by Phoebe Philo, the Paddington bag is back. The iconic handbag returned on the runway in Chemena Kamali's autumn and winter 2025 collection and in-the-know shoppers quickly joined the wait list for the reissued Paddington bags at Chloé. Now, it's officially back in stock.

We're in the midst of a nostalgia-fueled moment in fashion, and it's ushering in the rise of archival styles, so it makes sense that Chloé would bring back one of its most beloved handbags to mark its 20th anniversary. After its original release, it was carried by It girls of the aughts, including Lindsay Lohan and Mischa Barton, and in 2025, it will be tucked under the arms of a new set of insiders. With autumn's arrival imminent, there's no time like the present to secure this season's It bag before it inevitably sells out.

The Original Debut of the Chloé Paddington in 2005

The Chloé Paddington bag was debuted on the brand's S/S 05 runway. The cult handbag went on to be one of the most popular styles of the decade.

The Reissue of the Chloé Paddington on the Autumn/Winter 2025 Runway

Showgoers were buzzing about the rerelease of the Chloé Paddington bag when it hit the runway at the French fashion house's A/W 25 show. Kamali brought the original back with some updates, including furry bag charms.

Shop the Chloé Paddington Bag:

It’s 6.25 a.m., and my alarm is blaring. I silence my phone, intent on keeping a few more minutes to myself.

But it’s not sleep I’m desperate to return to. It’s scrolling through the promising pages of vintage Bally on eBay that have occupied my waking moments. I just need five more minutes to bid, to browse, to dream. Like so many in the fashion industry, my love for secondhand shopping runs deep. There’s a thrill in tracking down a rare find, a rush in outbidding a competitor at the last second and a smug satisfaction in knowing you’ve secured a designer gem for a fraction of its original price. It’s exhilarating—sometimes even addictive.

And with today’s shopping climate—the fast-fashion boom, luxury price hikes, declining quality, a collective nostalgia and a push towards individualism—secondhand shopping serves our evolving needs better than ever before. Fashion psychologist Carolyn Mair explains the growing popularity of secondhand shopping and its natural fit in our dopamine-driven world. "Secondhand shopping provides a dopamine-driven thrill. The excitement of discovering unique, high-value items at bargain prices triggers the brain’s reward system," she says.

Any seasoned thrifter knows the high that comes from spotting a designer bag tucked away in a charity shop or stumbling upon a mislabeled gem on eBay, void of other bidders. "The unpredictability of charity shops and resale platforms creates a sense of adventure, reinforcing the desire to return for more treasure hunts," Mair continues. "This psychological reward system makes secondhand shopping highly addictive and enjoyable."

For me, shopping pre-loved started with childhood charity-shop trips with my mother. Back then, it was a practical necessity—essentials only, a means to an end. But today, a successful thrift haul sparks conversations with colleagues and fellow vintage aficionados that can fuel us for days. What’s changed between now and then? Well, lots. The perception of secondhand has transformed: what was once a quiet, budget-conscious decision is now a status symbol that can tell others you possess a deeper appreciation of fashion’s history and hold environmental ethics above fleeting trends. Simultaneously, accessibility and variety have rocketed.

The secondhand fashion industry has undergone a glossy rebrand over the past two decades. "Whereas it used to be mainly through charity shops and flea markets, we’re now seeing curated online marketplaces like The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and Depop, as well as more affordable options like Vinted and eBay," says Mair. "The digitalisation of resale has made it more accessible, transparent and socially acceptable." These platforms, designed like social media apps, fit seamlessly into our daily scrolls—just a few more icons on an already overused home screen.

Whilst secondhand shopping options have never been so prolific, it’s hardly a new phenomenon. However, set against the backdrop of an ever-churning algorithm, consumers are partaking in secondhand shopping with renewed fervour to push back against the micro-trend cycle that would otherwise dictate a fashion season. In an era where personal style is starting to trump fleeting trends (all signs are pointing to the end of quiet luxury), vintage has become the anti-fast fashion movement—the true marker of individualism.

Model walks the Prada autumn/winter 2025 runway.

In 2025, breaking the algorithm has become a movement in itself. Echoed throughout the larger fashion zeitgeist, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have challenged traditional trend cycles with their dishevelled, nonchalant take on femininity, using a wide body of references that subvert the samey styles that some of their competitors are producing. Erica Wright, founder of Sourcewhere, expands on this, stating, "2025 is set to be the year of personal curation—less about following trends, more about finding pieces that feel like long-term investments. Whether it’s a pair of sold-out shoes from The Row, a vintage coat from Alaïa or an old Celine bag that’s been out of production for years, customers are thinking beyond the season and focusing on what will hold true value in their wardrobe."

Celebrities, too, are embracing vintage like never before. "In a world of mass production, wearing rare, one-of-a-kind archival pieces allows celebrities to differentiate themselves, reinforcing their individuality and status whilst promoting sustainability," says Mair. "Because archival pieces are exclusive, they enhance perceived value, making them seem more desirable."

Miley Cyrus's 2024 Grammy's performance look—a 2002 Bob Mackie dress—dominated fashion headlines for days, whilst Kylie Jenner’s archival Alaïa autumn/winter 1991 piece at Paris Couture Week sent social media into a frenzy—citing runway images of Naomi Campbell wearing it the first time around alongside Jenner in the dress. Mair continues, "Celebrities wearing archival fashion position themselves as tastemakers who appreciate fashion’s heritage rather than blindly following trends. This resonates with fans and consumers, driving renewed demand for past collections and reinforcing the idea that great fashion transcends time."

And, of course, brands are capitalising on our nostalgic yearnings. Enter the surge of designer bag reissues—Louis Vuitton’s 2000s Murakami collection, Dior’s re-released Saddle Bag and Prada’s Re-Edition line are just a few examples. "Re-editions allow brands to capitalise on nostalgia, sustainability and exclusivity whilst reinforcing their heritage," Mair explains. "As fashion trends cycle back, luxury houses revive past designs to meet demand for vintage-inspired pieces. The growing appeal of archival fashion, fuelled by social media and celebrity endorsements, has made re-editions a smart way to tap into emotional connections and investment-driven purchasing behaviours."

As nostalgic trends flood the runways, scrolling through Depop to find the real thing feels like the obvious move. For those with a penchant for '90s fashion, securing an original piece rather than a reproduction is the ultimate score. Rachel Reavley, strategic partner and advisor at secondhand shopping platform Hardly Ever Worn It notes, "As retail prices for luxury goods continue to rise, many shoppers [are turning] to resale for access to coveted items at (potentially) lower prices. Brands like Khaite and Hermès, which produce in limited quantities, benefit from this scarcity-driven demand."

Our attitude towards secondhand has evolved, and so have our shopping preferences. Wright explains: "In the early 2000s, It bags like the Fendi Baguette, Balenciaga City and Dior Saddle were tied to celebrity culture and seasonal hype. Today, the emphasis is on understated luxury and timeless design. Consumers are prioritising lasting value and personal significance over fleeting trends. Shoppers now seek items that are unique yet enduring—vintage Hermès bags in Barenia and Box leather, iconic '90s Prada coats and rare, well-crafted accessories that stand apart."

I asked the Who What Wear UK team what secondhand treasures they’re currently hunting for, and they gave me a wonderful range of answers. Social media assistant Annie Wheatland-Clinch is searching for Y2K military jackets and circa-2004 Balenciaga whilst also keeping an eye out for polka-dot prints to shop a 2025 trend for less. Client success manager Jerrylyn Saguiped tracked down a dress for her wedding reception next month via Vinted; senior branded content editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans (known in the office for her extensive collection of secondhand designer bags) has her eye out for another, and editor-in-chief Hannah Almassi is on an eternal quest for a pair of crystal-embellished Gina shoes.

With 274K followers, influencer Karen Blanchard has built a platform around sourcing and styling vintage, a testament to the shift in perception around the hobby. Favouring in-person shopping experiences over online options, she tells me that she finds her best buys in the men’s sections, naming a tailcoat, brown tweed blazer and moto jacket amongst her favourite purchases. Meanwhile, Depop seller Pascale Davies specialises in designer items "as the quality is often higher, and finding something that would have originally been sold for a fortune at a fraction of the price still gives [me] such a thrill." But reasons for choosing to shop secondhand vary across the board.

If you were to rifle through my wardrobe, you’d quickly find that most of my collection is pre-loved. In my early years working in fashion, I relied on vintage finds to build a wardrobe that felt aspirational. Today, I shop secondhand for a different reason: to eschew trends that don't resonate with my style and instead invest in pieces that hold their value—financially and stylistically. My current wish list? A Jil Sander pencil skirt and a pair of peep-toe Pradas.

Reavley tells me that a few key brands are dominating sales on Hardly Ever Worn It right now. For the moment at least, brands that epitomise the quiet-luxury aesthetic continue to experience firm interest, as sales of Hermès products are up 24% this year compared to last, whilst The Row has grown by 33% and Max Mara is up 28%. Experiencing a swell of popularity, Khaite has had a huge 88% spike, and Toteme is up by 50%—a significant shift compared to previous years.

Secondhand shopping is a wide and varied field, and if it’s not something you've done before, it can certainly feel a little overwhelming. If you'd prefer your first taste to be from the comfort of your sofa, then Depop, eBay, Hardly Ever Worn It, Vestiaire Collective, Vinted and Soucewhere are all great places to start. But how to go about it? Well, I’ve put together some tips from a stylish cohort that have made their living from buying and selling on the secondhand market. Scroll on for their advice.

How to Shop Secondhand Online:

Work with the algorithm: Use the algorithm to your advantage, recommends Depop’s in-house trends specialist Agus Panzoni. "As with social media platforms, following your favourite sellers can build your algorithms and create a feed that is specifically tailored to you, with sellers curating their shops dependent on their style and aesthetic. Depop is its own community, and following top sellers and engaging in their content means that you get the most from your buying experience by finding those with similar styles to your own."

Be specific with your search: "Depop’s search function is literal, so make the most of it by searching for specific terms rather than looking far and wide. "If you are looking for a pair of jeans, specify the colour, shape and cut to guarantee [you find] exactly what you are looking for," says Panzoni

Don’t be afraid to negotiate: "Offers between 5-20% below the listed price are the most likely to be accepted by sellers, and many will be open to discussing deals, particularly if their item has been on sale for a while without anyone purchasing it," Panzoni adds.

Pay attention to measurements: According to Karen Blanchard, "When shopping online, I always recommend paying attention to the measurements. Take a piece [you already own] that's a similar style and fit, and measure the shoulders, cuff length, inseam, waistband [or whichever measurements are applicable]. Then compare it to the secondhand piece you’ve found online. One size 10 won’t be the same as the other, so this is a trick I always use."

How to Shop Secondhand In-Person

Hone in on the details: "I always recommend paying attention to the smell and staining [of an item], as well as making sure it has all of the zippers and buttons, etc. This will help ensure it’s worth the asking price. I prefer vintage shopping in person so that I can feel the texture, see the true colour, try it on and get a better feel for the quality," explains Blanchard.

Take your time: In-person secondhand shopping can be a labour of love, and some of the best items in my wardrobe were found tucked away in corners of otherwise uninspiring charity shops. To ensure you walk away with something you love, take the time to rifle through every inch of the place. In my experience, it’s rare to walk into a secondhand shop and find that perfect item straight away.

For an insider's peek into the secondhand items we’re coveting the most, I've pulled together an edit of the best to be found online right now. Whether you’re trying to channel the '90s through your wardrobe or are embracing the "Boom Boom" aesthetic of 2025, read on to discover the pre-loved pieces to have on your radar right now.

Five In-Demand Trends to Shop Secondhand Right Now

It felt like summer happened almost overnight, but the last couple of weeks of sunny spells have called for us to seriously rethink our everyday wardrobes. Linen trousers are always a failsafe and tank tops and blouses are a must, but if we had to bank on anything being a seasonal smash hit this summer, it has to be skirts.

Always in the back of our wardrobes but rarely given their moment in the spotlight, skirts are back on the agenda for warm evenings and overcast afternoons. Take a look through socials and you'll spot fashion people styling up skirts for summer in a myriad of ways. Tank tops and pretty midi skirts, t-shirts and ruffled minis, and shirts and column skirts are all popular outfit combinations right now, but the truth is, their origins stem in '90s fashion.

Think of classic '90s icons and I'll show you a great skirt outfit. Princess Diana's skirt suits, Kate Moss' Calvin-Kleinesque minis, Posh Spice's sleek separates—the skirt's elegant appeal helps outfits transition with just the change of a shoe, and with such a wealth of outfit possibilities, it's a strong contender as the hardest working item in your rotation. With the market full of floaty A-line styles, slinky slips and leg-bearing minis, I've narrowed the options down to the very best styles (with a little help from some '90s style stars). So if you're tired of trousers and feeling shortchanged by shorts, keep scrolling to see the seven '90s skirt trends that still look just as good today.

1. THE QUIET LUXURY LONG SKIRT

Style Notes: Looking for a hard-working, wardrobe staple that you can rely on for years to come? This classic, straight skirt might not be the centre of attention, but it is the foundation of so many chic outfits. Dress it up for the office with polished leather, dress it down with a white tee and trainers—however you style it, you won't regret a smart skirt that helps elevate even the most simple ensemble.

Shop Midi Skirts:

2. THE LBS (LITTLE BLACK SKIRT)

Style Notes: Nothing says "90's" quite like a baby tee, mini skirt and knee-high boot combination, and although Pamela's look has a sportier edge with a sports jersey, you can copy and paste this outfit formula and always get a winning look thanks to the little black skirt. Tank top + black mini + knee high boots? The off-duty model uniform. Turtleneck + black mini + knee high boots? Your autumn, sorted.

Shop Black Mini Skirts:

3. THE FLORAL MIDI

Style Notes: If any print defined the '90s, it had to be a watercolour floral. Everyone from sitcom stars to models wore red carpet dresses and weekend 'fits in abstract florals, and just when we were getting a little bit fatigued by ditsy florals, the bold bloom trend has come back around to offer floral fans a new alternative for spring and summer.

Shop Floral Skirts:

4. THE LINEN SKIRT

Style Notes: It would take a lot to pull us away from classic linen trousers, but this one picture of Gwyneth might just do it. Sleek, chic and sophisticated, the linen skirt is simple but effective, and should you be planning what to wear in a heatwave, this is the first port of call for editors, influencers and celebs alike.

Shop Linen Skirts:

5. LADYLIKE KNEE-LENGTH

Style Notes: Mini, midi or maxi, we've tried them all, but the surprising return of the knee length skirt had thrown a whole new option into the mix. Not too short, definitely not too long, this in-between length creates such a '90s silhouette, particularly with a mid-heel sandal.

Shop Knee Length Skirts:

6. THE SKATER SKIRT

Style Notes: It just wouldn't be a complete skirt round up without a playful mini, and short, flippy skirts have been cropping up on socials since the Y2K revival first peaked. You will have noticed ruffled, asymmetric, and handkerchief hems everywhere during festival season, a sure sign that structured mini skirts are taking a backseat to cuter, fluid styles. Sorry denim minis—for now we're focusing on romantic and carefree energy.

Shop Skater Skirts:

7. THE LEATHER SKIRT

Style Notes: With autumn just around the corner it's only right that we finish with a skirt style perfect for the colder months. Leather skirts are the anti-trend hero of our fall wardrobes—no matter how often (or rarely) they crop up in designer collections, they are always going to perform in stores. After all, their glossy finish is the easiest way to tell people that the wearer is "well put together". With even better faux leather options on the market now too, you don't have to shell out four figures to look like you did.

Shop Leather Skirts:

Up Next, Our Predictions Came True: This Will Be Fall 2024's Biggest Colour Trend

As much as the fashion community loves the feeling of anticipation leading up to the Met Gala every year, the build-up is nothing compared to the actual event. After months of preparation, first-time and veteran attendees alike have started to arrive, and with their appearances come answers to our burning questions about who made the 2024 guest list and what they'll wear to commemorate the moment. One such vet is Kendall Jenner, who dug into fashion's archives to once again *deliver* on Met Gala night.

With a dress code of The Garden of Time, inspired by J.G. Ballard's 1962 short story, and an exhibition titled Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, we've been expecting nature to play a significant role in the evening's vast selection of looks. But not everyone went the obvious floral-print route (thankfully). Instead, Jenner—who chose an archival Givenchy gown from Alexander McQueen's F/W 99 haute couture collection for the house—noted in an interview with Vogue that the kismet nature of her look is what related it to Ballard's short story, calling it "meant to be." She stumbled upon the black, strong-shouldered, low-cut gown while knee-deep in Met Gala research, falling for it immediately but knowing that it could easily not work for her or fashion's biggest night. She would be the first human ever to wear it given that the 25-year-old dress was only donned by a mannequin for the couture show. To protect its integrity, she wouldn't be able to adjust the fit of it at all. Luckily, despite its age and the fact that it was only tailored for a bust, it "just fit," she said in the interview.

The dress, according to a press release, required 500 hours of hand embroidery and features more than 100,000 beads and sequins. To accompany it, Jenner wore a long, ethereal wig fit with two almost fairy-like braids, as well as Lorraine Schwartz jewellery. Scroll down to see her jaw-dropping vintage look, which, after the Met Gala, will go straight back to its rightful spot in the brand's archives, per Givenchy.

At Givenchy's F/W 99 couture show:

On Kendall Jenner at the 2024 Met Gala:

On Kendall Jenner: Vintage Givenchy dress; Lorraine Schwartz jewelry

As the saying goes, 'one person's junk is another person's treasure', and this is ever more prevalent in the fashion world. With buying and selling pre-loved pieces being more and more popular, apps such as Vinted, Depop, eBay, Vestiaire Collective and Etsy are quite literally a treasure trove for anyone wanting to find those not-so-hidden gems. Add to this sites such as The Cirkel and Rites becoming the destination for fashion editors to sell the unwanted items from their wardrobe, and to also buy each other's, and sharing really is caring.

Whether it's a vintage one-off piece you're after, a past season designer item that you've been trying to find, or even a new item you missed out on, the secondhand sphere is the non-exclusive club to be a part of. And who better do the hard work of searching all of these spaces than the Who What Wear editors?

To discover what's on our fashion editor's wish lists, just keep scrolling. And as a sneak peek, there's Prada and Miu Miu bags, a Burberry skirt and Gucci x Adidas trainers you won't want to miss. The thing is, though, there will only be one lucky person who gets to shop them—on your marks, get set, go!

Hannah Almassi, Editor In Chief 

Shop Hannah's Picks:

Jerrylyn Saguiped, Affiliates Manager

Shop Jerrylyn's Picks:

Harriet Davey, Fashion Contributor 

Shop Harriet's Picks:

Remy Farrell, Fashion Editor

Shop Remy's Picks:

Florrie Alexander, Acting Affiliates Editor

Shop Florrie's Picks:

Annie Wheatland-Clinch, Assistant Social Media Editor

Shop Annie's Picks:

Do you follow Andrea Cheong on Instagram or TikTok? If you don't, you should. She has become a trusted and approachable authority in an arena that many find daunting to step into—sustainable fashion. On her platforms, Cheong breaks it down into easily digestible, bite-size pieces of information to arm you with more sensible shopping tactics. With her wealth of knowledge and very good taste, we just had to knock on her virtual door. In this month's column, she guides us through the murky world of secondhand-shoe shopping. 

Some of the hottest footwear trends are actually best found secondhand, if you know what to look for. And after reading this, you will. Shoes can be a challenging category to shop preloved, but it’s a high-risk, high-reward kind of game. Most of the time when shoes go to resale they don’t retain anywhere near their original price, and this is great news for shoppers looking for specific styles, because there are tonnes of great-value finds to be discovered on resale platforms like eBay, Vestiaire Collective, Vinted and Depop.

But before we get into it, there's one thing to note: flaws are fine, but it depends which ones. Damage to shoes is more or less expected, especially if the product listing doesn’t describe the item as "new with box" or "never worn". Some flaws are acceptable—for example, a scuff on real leather (patent leather is a no -no; it’s very difficult to restore) can be fixed if you’re willing to pay. Leather soles are extremely common with designer shoes and often, they need resoling, but this is still more affordable than buying a brand-new pair outright.

You may even come across listings of shoes that have a rubber sole attached to them, and don’t be put off—the seller has saved you the trouble! However, some issues are irreversible or would require a specialist to resolve, such as yellowing on plastic shoes, water damage, stretched-out shoes (if they're leather, water and a hairdryer may do the trick but can only rectify so much), split soles (this happens frequently with poor-quality plastic moulds) or bubbling or puckering on the surface. Shoes with these flaws aren't worth it, no matter how good you think the deal is. 

An Example of Secondhand Shoes That You Might Want Resoled:

Now, here are my three top tips for shopping excellent secondhand shoes, along with some great, covetable finds you can shop now, though they probably won't be around for long. 

1. If You’re in the Market for Jewelled Styles, Look for a Pair from Manolo Blahnik

Embellished heels are having an eternal moment, but many of the bedazzled styles that have stolen our hearts over the last few seasons unfortunately don't last very long. One classic style that’s entrenched in pop culture (and my wish list) is the Hangisi from Manolo Blahnik. These hit the spot if you’re looking for sparkle and come in a rainbow spectrum of colours. One of the best places to find them are on Vestiaire Collective, where they sell for around half (or sometimes less than) their near-£1000 retail price.

Shop Manolo Blahnik Hangisi:

2. Hunt Down Classics Like Ballet Flats

One of the most versatile and comfortable shoe styles there is, ballet flats will always have a place in my wardrobe. They’re also a really great option to search for second-hand, especially if you’re looking for quality over the latest seasonal trend. Pretty Ballerinas, French Sole and Repetto are brands known for their long-standing collections of ballet flats, and there are plenty of classic styles up for resale. Chanel is a coveted name in the world of chic slip-ons—fabric styles come with a more economical price tag but are harder to clean, so it may not always be worth it if you’re not on first-name terms with your local cobbler!

Shop Ballet Flats:

3. For a Statement, Search for Pointed Mules

I'm 5’1", so if there’s one shoe style that I'm thrilled is trending again, it’s the pointed mule, which is so good for elongating silhouettes. It’s also a staple of the '90s and early '00s, where Prada reigns over the secondhand market. Be it classic leather, eyelet detailing or patterned styles, the aesthetic is to embrace the vintage vibe, so take your pick. Choosing secondhand with this style is definitely the way to go, as full-priced designer pairs from the likes of Amina Muaddi retail for around £600 and up. They’re cute, but vintage is cuter.

Shop Pointed Mules:

Next Up: Shoes Are My Specialist Subject—11 Pairs That Are Key This Year

If there is one thing we're passionate about at Who What Wear, it is smart shopping. And while we pride ourselves on buying less and buying better, with a view that every item we purchase, whatever the price, should be seen as an investment in our wardrobe, there will always be room for improvement. One element that can still prove to be intimidating for some is the world of second-hand shopping.

Someone who knows a thing or two about this is Amy Bannerman. The stylist is a pre-loved pro, and as an important partner for eBay, Bannerman (who was named as the platform’s official pre-loved fashion stylist, also sources the wardrobe for reality TV show Love Island) has made it her mission to promote the power of shopping second-hand. As a result, Bannerman has become a leading voice in the conversation on consumer habits and sustainability within the fashion industry. 

In fact, last year Bannerman launched a social media campaign called #ChoosePreloved. What started as a way to encourage people to shop pre-loved for their Christmas gifts has now transformed into a weekly edit of pre-loved pieces that Bannerman shares each week on her IG stories. 

So, as we look to a new season, we thought there was no better perfect time for Amy to share her story, as well as her tips for shopping pre-loved and the key pieces she'd recommend buying into this year—second-hand, of course. Scroll on to discover what she had to say.

When did you start to become so invested in secondhand shopping, and when did it start to feature as the majority of your wardrobe?

I have been invested in secondhand as a general concept for as long as I can remember. When I was younger it was more the idea of things being passed down to me. My mum had a very shoe obsessed friend with size 2 feet and when I was about 7 years old she gave me a huge bag of glitzy '80s heels. My mind was officially blown! Moments like these sowed the seeds of my pre-loved obsession. I love the concept of things being worn and cherished then passed on, so that they have multiple lives. Working for eBay (my dream job), I am I obviously on the site more than I ever would have been before so my collection is definitely growing and I'm very happy about that!

What was it like working in the fashion industry (which has been a bit slow to the pre-loved market!) and feeling like this was what you wanted to wear rather than what's "new"?

When I started at ELLE as a fashion assistant I was constantly surrounded by runway pieces and items I knew I would never be able to afford. I used to watch the shows and note the trends or pieces I fell in love with and then look for them on eBay. The thing about trends, if you really buy into them, is that everyone ends up looking the same. My Mum is Canadian and I spend every summer in Canada so I would leave my assisting job and go to Canada and trawl the charity shops and the vintage shops to try and dig up some real gems, knowing that when I got back to the office nobody would be wearing the same thing as me. Designers often copy vintage pieces, so my thoughts are why not just find those vintage pieces before the designers do!

Do you have favourite haunts or are you always on the lookout?

Charity shops are a definite favourite just because they're so hit and miss that when you do find the really good stuff it's deeply satisfying. I wish I was more on top of the boot fairs and antique markets but I like lying in bed with coffee too much! Even prior to working with eBay I was on the site every day; there is nothing you cannot find and I love it for that diversity of items. I also really love going to rural areas and villages and hunting out the smaller chairty shops. The charity shops where I live, in Leytonstone, are really great and the stock turns over quickly, they are probably my favourite thing about living in Leytonstone. So much of what we do now is digital I do really love the aimless wandering around not looking for anything in particular. 

Do you know what you're looking for or does each shopping trip just offer up a surprise?

I always have a kind of mental list of things I'm looking for which is mainly made up of the "ones that got away”, that way when I’m popping in and out of charity shops I can be a bit more targeted and when I’m on a site like eBay I don't fall into a massive rabbit hole and come out with lots of random stuff. Weirdly, a lot of things I look for are things I once owned and had to sell to pay the bills when I was an assistant. Perhaps I am sometimes buying back my actual item—true circularity! 

What are the mistakes you've made with second hand shopping that makes you better at it today?

I am not remotely mathematical and never measure anything. I also hate being asked to measure things when I'm selling. I once bought a beautiful mid-century desk but when it arrived it was toddler sized. Another time I bought a drinks cabinet and was amazed at how cheap it was but when it arrived it was about 15cm tall and was made to display tiny china animals, not bottles of gin. I narrowly missed buying an incredible leopard print faux fur coat, just realising at checkout that it was for a Barbie doll and not a human. I also make the mistake of convincing myself to buy shoes which aren't my size because I really love them, I have quite a lot of size 7 shoes which are like boats on my size 6 feet. Some of my favourites are actually coming to eBay soon, watch this space! 

What are the essential parts of your wardrobe that you bought second hand and couldn't get dressed without?

I have quite a severe coat and jacket obsession. The thing I love about them is they can completely change your look and can be quite far removed from your usual style; you can be more experimental with what you choose to layer over a simple outfit. My favourite ones are a navy floor length cashmere and angora overcoat which almost touches the floor. It was £10 from a Hospice in the Weald charity shop and I bought it in the summer when no one else was looking for such a warm coat. My latest favourite is a vintage '80s GAP leather varsity jacket which is worn in to perfection and brings me such joy every time I put it on. It was £40 on eBay and it's received a lot of compliments this year.

Do you look to trends for inspiration? If so, how do you set about applying more sustainable methods to shopping for new looks?

I only really look to trends for work and now that I don't work for a magazine, trends are thankfully not really a part of my life. I buy things because I love them and I like how they look on me. I don't really care if they are "on trend". I think people are sick of being told something is cool one minute and is not the next. This really is a construct of consumerism and companies pretending they are reinventing the wheel to get you to buy more stuff. Everything you want is already out there, you just have to find it! 

What are you on the lookout for this season/year?

I have been looking for a plaid shirt to wear tied around my waist with a skirt. I haven't found the right one yet, but patience is a virtue. I have also been looking for a Balenciaga city bag for quite a long time and have just found one for such a good price in a colour I've never seen and which makes everything feel a bit off, but in a good way. Next on my list is a really luxe hoodie with a zip to layer under light-weight jackets going into spring. My brother has a really chic Vivienne Westwood one which I've managed to track down on eBay, not sure how he'll feel about that…!

See What Trends Amy Is Buying Pre-Loved This Year:

1. Denim Shirts

Get the look:

2. Maxi Coats

Get the look:

3. Classic Trench Coats

Get the look:

4. Luxe Accessories

Get the look:

5. LBMD (Little Black Midi Dress)

Get the look:

6. Blazers

Get the look:

7. Printed Dresses

Get the look:

8. Bombers

Get the look:

Next Up: Spring/Summer 2023 Fashion Trends: 21 Expert-Approved Looks You Need to See

Although Second-Hand September is drawing to a close, here at Who What Wear, we practice what we preach and are constantly on the lookout for pre-loved gems that will become much-loved pieces in our wardrobes. Regular readers will know that we pride ourselves on making sensible shopping decisions, with a view that every item we purchase—whatever the price point—should be viewed as an investment. And whether you’re after an iconic piece you missed out on the first time around, a timeless classic you'll love forever or a spectacular one-off no one else will own, it pays to shop pre-loved. 

There is one category that shoppers have often discounted pre-loved fashion as a contender for, though, and that's trends. Thankfully, "this season, the trends are much broader, which makes shopping for second-hand clothes a lot more accessible and sourcing preloved alternatives much easier," explain pre-loved experts, stylists and founders of Chillie London Natalie Hartley and Lydia McNeill.

"The beauty of shopping for second-hand clothes is that even these trend-led finds are sometimes one-offs," they continue. "Our advice is to select what suits you and what you genuinely like. At Chillie London, we shop and sell by colour. This is a simplified way to fit pre-loved clothes into your existing wardrobe while also tackling trends."

To explain more about how to shop this year's trends second-hand and for all the info on what to look out for, we asked the team at Chillie London to create the ultimate cheat sheet for us. Scroll down to discover their favourite trends for the season ahead as well as some pre-loved pieces we've got our eye on.

1. PINK

"Pink is the colour of the season, but we like to turn pink into a more universal trend by wearing the colour with pieces you may not expect. Here, Natalie wears a suede bomber and trousers, combining two shades of pink that work really well together. She adds white trainers to give it a neutral pop. Lydia has styled a simple shirt dress with a really oversized men's suede jacket. Beige and pink look great together, and combining the two is a stylish way to wear the trend for autumn." 

SHOP THE TREND

2. LEATHER

"These incredible leather coats are winter's answer to the cotton trench. Look for shape in the shoulders and across the front and back. Lydia is wearing this epic red leather coat and has added loafers. Then she's paired it with simple nylon tracksuit bottoms but has tied the waist to add shape. Natalie has left her coat loose and has layered a suede jacket underneath to break up the black. We've styled this combo with Adidas tracksuit bottoms and trainers for a modern twist."

SHOP THE TREND

3. TAILORING

"No one can deny that tailoring is big right now. We chose grey tones for this trend and are playing with texture and print to give it some edge. Lydia has this super-cool woollen St Michael skirt suit layered with a waistcoat over the jacket, which is actually a padded lining from another coat. Don't be afraid to get creative! Natalie has styled a classic pinstripe blazer with a loose boiler suit and vintage T-shirt. Just make sure the blazer is oversized."

SHOP THE TREND

4. BROWN

"Brown is another massive trend and one that is so easy to source on the pre-loved market! We are obsessed with wearing thicker jackets as jumpers and styling them with longer-length coats. Looking for unusual linings can break up the tones, too. Lydia has a statement suede animal-print jacket, which she's belted and pulled in tight to flatter her shape. She has added a pre-loved Lacoste rugby T-shirt and simple black jeans and boots. This look has a slightly '80s feel about it, so adding jeans and current footwear keep it looking relevant and on-trend."

SHOP THE TREND

5. DENIM

"Another trick of the trade is layering jackets over coats. Denim is the perfect layer: It's a neutral that goes with everything. Lydia has worn her biker-style denim jacket over her faux-snakeskin Clockwork trench and then added red trainers for a pop of colour. Natalie has this amazing padded denim jacket on. We love sourcing alternative denim jackets that have extra details like padding, zips and extra pockets. Vintage denim is in abundance, so you can really find some amazing pieces. Natalie has layered her look with a vintage Japanese football top and cords."

SHOP THE TREND

6. THE MAXI COAT

"These maxi coats are statement pieces and as such don't need much styling. We love to play with colour at Chillie, and so Natalie has worn this khaki coat with navy blue. Take a risk with contrasting colours and use unusual colour-blocking as a fun way to restyle pieces you already have in your wardrobe. Lydia has this incredible padded leather coat and has styled it with browns to give a softer feel to this heavy piece."

SHOP THE TREND

For appointments or questions about the wider collection for sale, email info@chillielondon.com, and follow @chillielondon.

Up Next: I Just Found 23 Amazing Second-Hand Designer Buys, and They're All Under £300

Some of my best dresses are vintage (see the below '70s cheesecloth number I found on a Greek island—nothing compares during the summer IMO). In my 20s, I had a great run of finding gem after gem thanks to the fact I lived a hop, skip and a jump away from Brick Lane, and most of my hungover weekends were spent trawling through thrift stores with nothing more pressing to do than get brunch. Things have changed: My life is far busier with a toddler, there are definitely fewer hangovers, the stock of vintage in the UK is becoming more and more limited, and I've become increasingly fussy about what is allowed to enter my very full wardrobe. So I still wear many of these special second-hand pieces to this day, but I can now also shop safely in the knowledge that almost any vintage-inspired dresses, whether new or old, will see plenty of wear. 

It's almost an oxymoron to say "vintage dress trends" because many retro styles have become bona fide classics in their own. A tea dress, for example, is neither on-trend nor ever out of fashion—it just suits your personal style or it doesn't. Same goes for the whole #cottagecore vibe and those Laura Ashley–style prairie dresses—something I was wearing long before lockdown came with its picnic-scaping and long walks. 

Below, I've charted the vintage dress trends that really never fade out and have lived happily in my closet for at least the past decade or so. These are dresses I've enjoyed wearing when I first bought them, but they're also the ones that I'm still excited to pull out this summer and style all over again. I've found vintage options for you to peruse but also some retro-inspired newer options because I know second-hand isn't for everyone. The sizing is restrictive, and the fabric technology just isn't what it is today (many a sweaty polyester number I have endured to save you from the embarrassment). So keep scrolling to discover the vintage dress trends that get my forever seal of approval.

1. PRAIRIE DRESS

Style Notes: This Yolke dress was a new addition to my wardrobe last year, but it sums up a more modern, and less fussy, prairie mood well. Subtle ruffles, a full skirt, blouson sleeves and a toile floral have all the hallmarks of a '70s piece but just toned down that little bit for ease of wear.

2. TEA DRESS

Style Notes: A ditsy floral tea dress never fails to feel good on and is the kind of midi you turn to whenever you're unsure of what to wear in the summer months. I even wear some of mine during the winter with knee boots and a chunky knit or super-warm coat. I tend to gravitate more towards the 1930s and 1940s-inspired tea dresses in slinkier fabrics, bias-cut skirts and with smaller blooms, but you could look at '50s options that come in louder prints and stiffer cotton if you wanted a more snug fit.

3. BRODERIE ANGLAISE

Style Notes: Broderie anglaise isn't just vintage—it's basically an antique fabric technique that dates back to the 19th century. So if anything has staying power, it's this!

4. '70S MAXI 

Style Notes: I am short, so maxis can be difficult to pull off (or not trip over), but there are certain styles with a more nipped-in waist and '70s vibe that work better for me than anything too tent-like.

5. MOD MINI

Style Notes: I'm more of a '70s girl at heart, but I can't resist a modest and mod-inspired printed midi dress. The fit needs to be slightly loose to counterbalance the shorter hemline, and the more retro the pattern, the better.

6. FIT-AND-FLARE

Style Notes: Fit-and-flare dresses have been popular since the '40s and '50s and continue to be a big seller today in many guises because they are flattering on almost all figures.

It's that time of year again: Autumn is just around the corner, and we're gazing into our fashion crystal ball to see what the cooler months ahead have in store for us. (If you haven't seen our A/W 22 report yet, check it out here.) With second-hand september underway, I'm here to bring you a vintage-alternative shopping guide to the season's hottest looks, particularly the styles that lend themselves to the second-hand format. Essentially, I've done all the hard work for you—you're very welcome. 

For A/W 22, I was totally spoilt for choice in the vintage department. It always helps that so many of the season's key looks have strong throwback references. We're talking dramatic oversized blazers (top tip: check the men's department), ankle-grazing hemlines, 90's styling and a good dose of colourful handbags. I mean, why buy a new version of a trend when you can have the one-of-a-kind original?

These days, there are limitless options when it comes to shopping second-hand online, but personally, I always find myself returning to Etsy, as it has the best selection of small vintage sellers and affordable pieces. For designer fashion, your best bet is Vestiaire Collective. Although, for bags, I would recommend dedicated bag sellers, such as Open for Vintage and Sellier, that specialise in brand authentication.

So if you're wanting to experiment with A/W 22's new trends while still shopping sustainably, scroll down to shop my vintage trend edit.

1. Oversized Blazers

An oversized blazer is one of the easiest trends to buy second-hand. I recommend heading to the menswear section for high-quality oversized styles, which can be worn loose or cinched in with a belt. 

SHOP THE TREND

2. The Maxi Hemline

There's no shortage of ankle-skimming hemlines on the vintage market thanks to its popularity through a variety of decades—from '70s boho to '90s minimalism. Whether you're a print person or prefer more of a pencil pleat, there's sure to be a maxi skirt to fall in love with. 

SHOP THE TREND

3. 90's MINIMALIST

I'm not going to lie, this category was a bit of a struggle because, as a millennial, the nineties aesthetic feels all too recent. However, it would be remiss of me to not include the 90s trend in this line-up as, well, it couldn't lend itself more to second-hand shopping. 

SHOP THE TREND

4. Biker Chicks

Biker jackets are just as relevant today as they've ever been, and this season the bolder hued vintage styles are top of our list. You'll find authentic and unique rider jackets in various colour combinations on second hand sites. 

SHOP THE TREND

5. Top tier tailoring

For A/W 22, wardrobe basics have been given a preppy update from the likes of Miu Miu and Dior. Think pleated midi skirts, cricket cable-knits and polished loafers. I found some fab second-hand iterations from Etsy below. 

SHOP THE TREND

6. Bright bags

The best thing about vintage bags are the unique shapes and one-of-a-kind colours that you can find. The tricky thing is avoiding fakes, so we recommend sticking to platforms that have dedicated authenticators, such as Vesitiare Collective and Sellier Knightsbridge. 

SHOP THE TREND

7. serious sequins

With party season just around the corner, its only right that the autumn/winter catwalks glistened with sequin embellishments. From all over sequins dresses, to sequin trimmed pieces, there's plenty of sequin steals on the vintage market. 

SHOP THE TREND

Up Next: Autumn/Winter 2022 Trends: The 15 Fashion Looks You Need to Know About

As Chanel’s glossy-haired models hit the S/S 22 runway, the soaring melody of George Michael’s "Freedom! '90" blasted out of the speakers, and the densely packed photographers that lined the runway snapped away. With big shoulder pads, glittering tweed and jewellery dripping in the brand’s interlocking-C insignia, it felt as though we had been transported back to one of Chanel’s iconic 1980s runway shows. "I used to love the sound of flashbulbs going off at the shows in the eighties, when the models were on a raised runway,” mused Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard, in the show notes. "I wanted to recapture that emotion.” The headline was clear: Nostalgia is big news. 

Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture S/S 02

The New Nostalgia

The world of luxury fashion is no stranger to vintage style. Historic fashion houses, such as Chanel, YSL and Dior, regularly dive into their own archives, digging out old motifs, silhouettes and prints and weaving them into new collections. The hallmark of any new creative director is often formed by their adherence to, or rebellion against, the brand's historic design DNA. Yet over the last year, there has been one significant gear change: Forget modern reworkings of bygone trends because luxury fashion has finally realised the power of the vintage items themselves. 

You don’t need to look far to see that the demand for resale is on the rise. In March 2021, luxury fashion group Kering (owner of Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga) made headlines by acquiring a 5% stake in resale platform Vestiaire Collective, and in April, Lyst reported that searches for "vintage,” "second-hand” and "pre-owned” jumped 32% compared with the previous year. 

"The appetite for vintage and second-hand fashion will continue to grow as Gen Zers and young millennials seek comfort in the cultural products of past decades”, explains Morgane Le Caer, content lead at Lyst. "Brands that were popular years ago have been making a comeback, with searches for denim brand Evisu increasing 83% within the past three months and Jean Paul Gaultier are up 53%. Jean Paul Gaultier’s rental service and Prada’s Re-Edition collection prove that it is important for luxury brands to stay on top of the movement.”

Chanel Haute Couture S/S 92–93

Bringing Polish to Pre-Loved

For Gen Z, a generation that has grown up with access to resale platforms such as Depop, preloved fashion is simply an integrated part of the way they shop, but what will be notable is how this behaviour adapts as they move into their 30s and 40s and their spending power increases. As luxury brands dip their toe into the resale sector, it foreshadows a more commercialised future for second-hand (an industry that hasn’t exactly been known for its mass appeal or polish), one that meets the market’s changing needs. You need only look at Gucci Vault to see the potential. With professionally shot imagery and an enviable product edit, the platform sells pieces from the brand’s vintage back-catalogue alongside upcycled collaborations with up-and-coming designers and packs all the gloss and glamour you’d expect from a luxury e-commerce site.

Mulberry is another high-end brand that has clocked the importance of incorporating second-hand into its business model. In February 2020, the brand launched Mulberry Exchange in-store, which then expanded to include an online buy-back-and-resell service, offering customers a chance to have their bags authenticated by in-house experts before being sold on, with the value put towards a new purchase. 

"We knew that the resale market was thriving, but when we looked at the Mulberry product that was available through the established resale channels, we could see that much of it was in poor condition or that customers could not be certain they were buying authentic Mulberry,” explains a representative from the brand. "We see the Mulberry Exchange services as a way of extending the same level of quality, excellence, service and attention to detail to the resale sector that we offer across our new collections.”

Fashion brands are realising that this move towards resale will happen with or without their participation, and by ignoring it, they run the risk of getting left behind and letting others cash in on their archival collections. "Resale platforms continue to raise funding, but the environments are not necessarily conducive to any particular brand’s storytelling,” explains journalist Rahul Malik in The Business of Fashion. "If platforms are going to make the brand’s inventory available, and consumers are going to see and potentially buy it, should the brand not at least seek to influence the experience?”

Versace Haute Couture S/S 96

The Multi-Brand Monopoly

One of the most significant players to enter the resale space over the last year has been multi-brand retailer NET-A-PORTER, which is known for its comprehensive luxury brand portfolio and high-spec customer service. It’s a notable win for the second-hand cause. Partnering with resale specialist Reflaunt, NET-A-PORTER now offers shoppers a reward-driven platform that not only promotes a more circular approach to consumption but also gives shoppers a financial incentive to experiment with resale. 

"We’ve been seeing ever-increasing interest in this space and are excited to see how our community will use this service to maximise the value of their high-quality luxury,” explains NET-A-PORTER Chief Buying and Merchandising Officer Lea Cranfield. "For me, it all comes back to quality. We know that seasonal trends can come back in style, and being able to draw on vintage pieces that can stand the test of time and have been well cared for can complement and bring a unique edge to our wardrobes. I also think throwback trends, such as the current Y2K movement, will rise and endure due to well-preserved archive pieces from these eras becoming more accessible. We believe resale can influence a longevity mindset for fashion and expect this to have a knock-on effect for how people invest in luxury pieces and care for them.”

NET-A-PORTER follows in the footsteps of Farfetch.com, which was one of the first platforms to harness the one-of-a-kind appeal of luxury vintage. The website launched its resale category back in 2010 with an edit of second-hand items sourced from its community of boutique partners. "We offer a range of services, from Farfetch Donate to Farfetch Second Life, to ensure that engaging in circularity is easy and approachable for our customers,” states senior women’s editor Celenie Seidel. "The response has been incredibly encouraging and a true indication that an increasing number of people are really considering where they direct their spend and how they can incorporate pre-owned items into their wardrobes.”

Dior Haute Couture A/W 93

The Future of Pre-Loved

These moves from some of the industry's power players are certainly good PR for the second-hand market and integral to making it an appealing prospect for first-timers. But for an industry that has historically been driven by newness, incorporating resale can seem an intimidating prospect, particularly from a logistics point of view. This is where innovative technology platforms, such as Reflaunt, come in.

The brains behind many of these luxury resale moves, Reflaunt helps platforms to enter the resale market and empower their own customers to resell or recycle their past purchases. The brand recently worked with Ganni to introduce a feature on the website whereby customers are able to select resell items in the same way you would press return to buy a new purchase. Once sold, the customer can then choose to receive a cash payback for the sale minus a Reflaunt commission or choose to receive the full sale price and a top-up in Ganni.com credits. 

"The main concern fashion brands have is around cannibalisation and the effect it may have on their first-hand business, but the reality is that customers are already selling their pieces, so the brand can choose to ignore this and not reap the benefits,” explains Reflaunt CEO and founder Stephanie Crespin. "In 10 years’ time, we think the most successful brands will have fully integrated resale throughout their business. I look forward to seeing retailers really consider the whole lifecycle of a product from start to finish, not just focused on making that one-off sale.”

Balenciaga Ready-to-Wear A/W 89

As with any industry-wide change, it is not without its downsides, and as a lifelong vintage shopper, I think about the impact of luxury brands reclaiming their vintage collections and selling them at elevated prices on smaller sellers. Will this mean that second-hand clothing becomes out of reach to the average person and loses the personal touch of homegrown businesses?

"Obviously, I can't deny that any opportunity to create a circular model is a positive one. Pushing these pieces into the mainstream makes second-hand more accessible, both in terms of the actual pieces reaching more people and elevating the conversation around a modern wardrobe that consists of new and old pieces,” says Clare Lewis, founder of Retold Vintage. "But it could be interpreted as yet another greenwashing exercise by these large brands and an opportunity to cash in on the increasing growth of the resale market. Half of the magic of vintage is hearing past life stories, who it belonged to, where it was found, etc., and smaller vintage businesses are so much better at being able to offer this personal touch.”

Perhaps the secret to second-hand’s long-term success is acknowledging the varying needs of consumers. If we can create a fashion market that offers both high-street and designer, then perhaps vintage can have its own spectrum, with charity shops and pre-loved high-street at one end and the new luxury offerings at the other. Bay Garnett, stylist and host of This Old Thing, which is sponsored by eBay, summarises it perfectly: "Are there any downsides to this change? I think anything that will make people buy and love more vintage is great, however it is presented. I think that people who love second-hand will always go to the smaller, more curated and edited sites. People love a secret and a hunt! But I think there will be something for everyone in the future of second-hand.” Amen to that.

Shop Second-Hand Designer

Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

The Second-Hand Shopper is a new franchise that sees Who What Wear's shopping editor, Joy Montgomery, join forces with some of the industry's coolest vintage brands to show you that second-hand does not have to mean second-best. This series will give you exclusive access to sellout second-hand drops, which will be hand-selected by our editor and styled to show how you can wear them for the season ahead. Prepare to get clicking because these pieces won't stick around for long.

There haven't been many times in my life when I've been asked to wear a pair of white gloves to handle an inanimate object, but as I reached into the dust bag of a £13.5K Hermès Kelly in the basement of Sellier Knightsbridge, I felt rather grateful for the thin layer of cotton protecting me and my sweaty hands from any threat of financial ruin. Welcome, readers, to the high-stakes world of preloved designer handbags. 

Founded in 2010 by mother-and-daughter duo Hanushka Toni and Dina Ibrahimova, Sellier Knightsbridge is a luxury second-hand fashion store that sits on a quiet street just off south London's bustling Brompton Road. With its narrow shopfront and white-washed exterior, it would be easy to walk straight past it (which I did twice before realising my mistake), yet inside it is a veritable Aladdin's cave of preloved designer gems. While you will find plenty of Chanel tweed jackets and Gucci platforms hidden in its depths, the majority of its sales—roughly 65%—come from handbags, which is precisely why I was there, cradling a tiny handbag like a newborn baby on a sunny September morning. 

As I studied the immaculate craftsmanship of this holy grail of handbags, I was told that 90% of Hermès bags are sold within three days, with the most expensive ever sold being an Hermès Kelly for a whopping £15,000—three times its RRP. No biggie. Indeed, Sellier is known as the number one reseller of Hermès in the UK, a thriving and lucrative market due to the scarcity of new models that are released every year. (The store manager told me about a client who was on the waiting list for seven years.)

And while Sellier is certainly regarded as a go-to for such rare pieces, it is also a gold mine for sought-after contemporary handbags from the likes of Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent and Prada. The brand has also recently set up a website in an attempt to expand its reach, and despite its prestigious reputation, the store manager is keen to impress on me the range of their clientele: from Gen Zers looking for a sub-£300 Simone Rocha tote to people investing in a long-awaited Chanel 2.55. In the first month, online turnover was just shy of £90K.

The vintage and second-hand industries have gone from strength to strength over the last year, but it's not without its pitfalls, and unsurprisingly, counterfeits are aplenty within the preloved-bag market. I have always wanted to include a designer-bag specialist in my Second-Hand Shopper franchise, but when I did, I wanted to ensure that it was a brand that had all the right credentials, which, thankfully, Sellier does. I spoke with Toni over email about navigating the murky waters of authentication and the changes she has witnessed in the preloved world over the last decade. Scroll down to read the interview and to shop my exclusive Sellier bag edit. 

What inspired you to set up a preloved fashion brand?

We have always been passionate about the idea of preloved luxury. However, we found ourselves increasingly frustrated by the experience of shopping preloved when so much of the market was filled with old, tired and undesirable pieces. We wanted Sellier to feel like a beautifully curated gallery where everyone, irrespective of their budget, could find something truly special. To this day, our pieces are carefully curated by us, meaning that they are in amazing condition, still relevant from a style point of view, the right price and, most important of all, authentic.

How has the vintage market changed since you launched?

It’s amazing how much the market has changed in all but a few short years. We have seen a greater awareness amongst consumers about the importance of sustainable shopping habits and also a greater appreciation of the sorts of pieces one can pick up preloved. Where that is most evident is with "best-in-class" vintage handbags. We have seen an increased appetite for vintage Chanel, to the point that vintage Chanel pieces now trump more recent pieces for popularity and resale value.

How do you guarantee authenticity when it comes to selling second-hand designer bags?

We have a three-stage authentication process, meaning that each product goes through several thorough stages of verification before it is offered to our clients. We firstly rely on our in-house expertise to carefully inspect each piece. We use all of our senses to examine all aspects of the item including the accompanying dust bag, packing paper and box.

We also have a designated brand expert for each of the superbrands we sell. This means that we do not have individuals authenticating across all the brands. We instead have leading experts for each brand authenticating that brand and that brand alone.

As an additional layer of authentication, we use the latest cutting-edge authentication technology to give our clients that additional peace of mind. The technology we use takes microscopic images of each bag and compares them to a cloud-based database of images before an AI algorithm evaluates the authenticity and provides us with a result in real time.

By ensuring our authentication processes make use of both technology and decades worth of human experience, we can be sure that we only ever offer our clients beautifully curated pieces that have been carefully vetted. Meaningful authentication lies at the very heart of what we stand for as a business and is the reason we can offer our clients a full-money-back guarantee in respect of each and every sale.

Which brands or models have sold well over the last 12 months?

With reports like the recent Knight Frank Investment Index ranking handbags as a more desirable investment than more traditional asset classes, we have seen demand for the investment-grade handbag from brands like Chanel and Hermès skyrocket.

Our community is super-educated in what makes a bag an "investment” purchase. We are therefore finding that demand is soaring for models like the Hermès Kelly, Birkin and Constance as well as the Chanel Classic and Mini Flap Bags. Whenever any of these come in, they sell out in seconds. This is simply a consequence of the huge imbalance between the scarcity of these pieces and the insatiable demand.

In many ways, these bags are priced like an asset class in their own right with specifics like colour, type of leather and hardware determining premiums on the resale market. It’s absolutely fascinating and something that you could write a book on in its own right!

What would be your top tips for people looking to buy a preloved designer bag for the first time?

Unfortunately, the luxury preloved industry can, at times, be a dangerous place. You hear countless tales of people parting with their hard-earned cash only to later find that their items never arrive or, if they do arrive, are counterfeit. We tell all of our clients and followers that irrespective of how they come to buy, they need to buy the seller, not the item. What this means in real terms is asking the company to explain their authentication processes to you. Don’t feel embarrassed to ask questions and get technical. If a company is reluctant to reveal how they authenticate, this could be an indication of the simple fact that they don’t. 

Condition is also key. Make sure you ask for as many images of the item as possible to make sure you understand precisely what you are buying. Whilst £1000 may not seem like a lot for a superbrand handbag, if that bag was used to within an inch of its life, suddenly that price tag may no longer seem as competitive. Ask for the ownership and repair history. Whilst consignment businesses are not always, at first instance, provided with this information, they should be able to pass on this request to the seller. It is only by having a complete picture that you can make more informed buying decisions!

Scroll down to shop my Sellier Knightsbridge designer-bag edit:

Style Notes: True vintage Chanel bags, I was told by the store manager, are actually quite rare, but this iconic flap crossbody is the perfect example of well-preserved vintage and a testament to the brand's ageless appeal. With 24-karat-gold hardware and Chanel's signature quilted leather, it's a true fashion heirloom.

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Just to avoid disappointment, I have to tell you that this Bottega dream clutch has just sold out, sorry! But I've included a similar style below, which I saw in-store and can confirm is not only beautiful but also super roomy. Proof that second-hand can encompass those cult brands that are in demand right now.

SHOP SIMILAR

Style Notes: There's nothing that says party to me quite like YSL's tasseled Kate bag. Coming with the brand's signature logo and two strap options (one chain and one leopard-print), this statement baguette is the ultimate grab-and-go style that will add interest to your favourite LBD.

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Style Notes: If you're looking for something with a more contemporary spin, may I recommend this cute Simone Rocha straw tote? Coming in at a reasonable £275, it uses the brand's signature pearl detailing to give a traditionally low-key material an elevated twist, which I love. Very much an insider-party-bag choice (if you know you know).

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Thanks to the resurgence of '90s fashion trends, Dior's logo bags have seen a storming return in recent seasons. Originating from the brand's 2019 collection, this roomy bowling bag is the sort of tote I dream about taking on a weekend away 

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Celine's Trapeze bag has become one of the brand's most iconic styles, with its colour-blocked finish and minimalist silhouette. The cobalt blue and white of this iteration feel very A/W 21. Plus, it's a super-versatile size that would allow you to use it for both work and at the weekend. (It also comes with a crossbody strap.)

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Okay, so I know this is the second Celine of the edit, but I just couldn't resist this slouchy leather style that doubles up as both a shoulder bag and an oversized clutch. Size-wise, this is very much a "fit everything except the kitchen sink" situation (never a bad thing), but it was the chic colourways and reasonable price point—£390—that won me over in the end. 

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Behold the holy grail of preloved designer bags: the Hermès Kelly. Sellier's store manager told me that, second-hand, these bags can go for double their retail price due to how hard they are to acquire new. Hence the five-figure price tag. So no, it's something we lowly mortals could afford, and yes, I had to use gloves to take it out of its dust bag. But a fascinating insight into the high-stakes world of preloved designer bags? Undoubtedly. 

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Call it the Carrie effect, or merely another side effect of this season's '90s obsession, but the baguette is back, and you don't get much more iconic than a Fendi. This particular number, sadly, doesn't come with a shoulder strap. However, one can easily be added, and I think it could function just as well as a clutch. I'm also a big fan of the leather lace detailing that borders the bag flap.

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Prada's Galleria is one of those classic structured handbag styles that will continue to look good for many decades to come. This style comes in a very stylish shade of burgundy and would be big enough to fit all the essentials. In immaculate condition, you can buy this exact bag for £2400 on the Prada website, but this number comes in at £880. Not too shabby.

SHOP THE BAG

Style Notes: Recognisable by its stuffed top handle and logo charm, the Dior Diorissimo bag comes in a range of sizes, but it wasn't until 2013 that the brand created the mini. This pint-sized (yet no-less-practical) tote comes in a bold mid-blue hue and colour-match crossbody strap. Just add to neutral autumnal separates. 

SHOP THE BAG

Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

Perhaps it's just me, but there's nothing I love more than scrolling through the new-in sections of NET-A-PORTER and MATCHESFASHION. Packed full of all the biggest names on the fashion scene and their boundary-pushing designs, for any fashion lover, it's like being the proverbial kid in a candy store (can we make fashion pick 'n' mix a thing, please?). Of course, as a secondhand style fanatic, Vestiaire Collective is very much on par with these e-commerce powerhouses, and at the start of every season, I love scrolling through and stumbling across my favourite designer brands at a fraction of the price. A little bit of high-street, a little high-end and a generous dose of secondhand. In fact, some of the most stylish women I know truly embrace a mix of all three.

In the spirit of the new season, I decided to share with you the fruits of my latest scrolling session. I really am a cold-weather fashion fan, so I was totally spoilt for choice, but I recommend keeping your eyes peeled as collections will start to fall faster than autumn leaves over the next few weeks. The notion of elevated basics very much remains relevant for the coming season, and this manifests in embellished knits that will liven up your fave jeans, colour-pop totes, tartan jackets to throw over a white tee and plenty of high-impact chunky boots.

Scroll down to see and shop the pieces from my dream autumn wish list, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER, MATCHESFASHION and Vestiaire Collective. 

NET-A-PORTER

Vestiaire Collective

MATCHESFASHION

Up Next: Autumn/Winter 2021 Trends: The Only Fashion Looks You Need to Know

It's not just during #SecondhandSeptember that the team at Who What Wear finds inspiration in thrifting and trends of the past. There's at least two of us on the team—myself and Joy Montgomery—who are self-confessed vintage fanatics, and a great deal of our communication includes sharing great Etsy finds for each other or new Instagram dealers to bookmark. Joy has a monthly column dedicated to secondhand shopping, we extol the virtues of rewearing anything and everything as much as possible, and every time a new-season rolls around we try our very best to dig around for the trends that might already exist in your wardrobe or can be easily bought pre-loved. autumn 2021 is looking particularly retro, which is fantastic news for those of us who like to look back and give a vintage spin to our modern wardrobes. 

Yes, Y2K and the '90s continues to inspire many a brand and well-dressed person out there, but I'm talking about properly retro trends here: The type that was kickstarted in the '60s or '70s and still look cool now, many decades later. Look to the designer collections—Gucci, Max Mara, Nina Ricci, Stella McCartney—and you'll see plenty of references to the era of psychedelic prints, sharp-collared suits, platforms and prairie dresses. Move on over to social media and you'll find that even before these looks filtered into stores, the idea is translating IRL. I've been spotting girls trying out knee-high boots with bare legs, a return to flared jeans and much more. Some retro autumn trends are more classic than others and have the potential to be pulled out time and again—they're all charted below. 

1. DAGGER COLLARS

They're called dagger collars for a reason—these guys are sharp! Whether on an equally retro printed shirt or adding a subtle twist to a simple, block-coloured dress, just this one old-school update always brings plenty of fashion kudos.

Shop the trend:

2. CROCHET

We've been experiencing a summer full of crochet, but this homespun trend shows no sign of slowing down for autumn. Think of crochet co-ords, patchworked jumpers and even full crochet dresses to layer up with boots, roll-necks and a suede jacket for the full vintage effect.

Shop the trend:

3. FUR-TRIM COATS

Saks Potts may have popularised this coat trend a few years ago, but the truth is: Winter coats with furry collars and cuffs (and normally a belted waist) always come back into fashion each decade. You can opt for a classic colour like brown or black, or go wild with something vibrant, such as pink.

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4. KNEE BOOTS

Whether '00s, '90s, '80s, '70s or '60s, there's a knee boot style out there for everyone and they're all trending. Try with bare legs now and segue into tights when it's time…

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5. FLARED JEANS

Flares are back, baby! And we couldn't be happier about it because they suit everyone and are a nice break from skinnies, but more polished than the current baggy jean trend. You can go for the full vintage look with platforms and a blouse, or simply combine them with a plain jumper or tee for a minimalist's take.

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6. BOHO DRESS

If it's full of sleeve, high of neck and swooshy of skirt, then you know you're onto a retro dress trend that never fails to look good. Add in a vintage-inspired print, like paisley, and you're on track for one of those looks that makes a big entrance without you having to even think about styling or outfit building.

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7. TINTED SHADES

Tinted shades correlate directly with coolness, I'm sure of it! They never make someone look less cool, right? Bigger frames are in right now, but they've also been popular during the '60s, '70s, '90s and '00s, so they are well worth an investment.

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8. A-LINE SKIRTS

Once miniskirts died out, a classic, easy-to-wear shape was born in the A-line maxi or midi. High-waisted and simply flaring out over the hips, this is one of those magical looks-good-with-everything pieces you'll come to rely upon, if only you'd try it!

Shop the trend:

Welcome to my latest edition of "yes, you can buy this season's trends second-hand and look better than if you bought them new." (Catchy, right?) This week, I'm focusing on coat trends, a category that, thanks to my lifelong addiction to outwear, has become a bit of an area of expertise for me. I also believe that it is one of the easiest ways to dip your toe into vintage shopping.

Why? Well, the sizing is typically easier to navigate than it is for trousers or tops. (If in doubt, I recommend sizing up, as you can always get something tailored). Coats and jackets also tend to age better than less sturdy items of clothing, both in terms of fabric and construction but also in regards to trends. I find that most autumn/winter silhouettes come back year after year. Finally, it's a category that lends itself to unisex dressing, and it's worth checking out both men's and women's categories for items like blazers, trenches and bomber jackets. More options is never a bad thing, right?

To get you started on your pre-loved journey, I've rounded up five coat trends that are inspired by this season's runways (although, ironically, most of the designers have been inspired by vintage styles) and look so much better second-hand, in my opinion. You've got army surplus liner jackets that are a dead ringer for Ganni's and The Frankie Shop's quilted styles, affordable leather coats for a Proenza Schouler–inspired look and a good dose of colour and print via the statement blazer trends. But don't take my word for it. Scroll down to see and shop my complete edit.

Quilted Coats

Style Notes: The moment I saw an army surplus liner jacket in a vintage store, I couldn't get over how much it looked like The Frankie Shop and Ganni iterations that had been proliferating over the last 12 months. Spotted on the runway of Raf Simons and Miu Miu, this cosy trend is a more refined iteration on last year's XXL puffer and is the perfect layering tool when the mercury drops.

SHOP MY EDIT

Tailored Coats

Style Notes: I use the word "trend" lightly here, as trench coats never really go out of style, but I loved how Celine layered up its traditional trenches with casual denim and zip-up hoodies on its A/W 21 runway. I plan on re-creating the look with one of the below second-hand beauties. My top tip? Opt for an oversized style for added drama.

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Statement Blazers

Style Notes: I know I'm creating a second-hand shopping edit inspired by runway looks, but really, the statement-blazer trend owes its origins to vintage styles. The above Emporio Armani jacket packs plenty of '80s power-dressing energy, and you can emulate the vibe with everything from tartan prints to eye-popping colourways. 

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Leather Coats

Style Notes: This season's leather-coat trend can be seriously expensive if you buy designer (Proenza Schouler's A/W 21 black iteration is the dream), but it also might look a little flimsy on the high street. Vintage is the obvious answer for high-quality finishes without the four-figure price tag. Whether you opt for a '70s longline style or a classic '90s boxy jacket, this is a look that is sure to elevate your autumn basics. 

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Shearling Coats

Style Notes: The shearling has been a mainstay in the jacket hall of fame for decades now (thank you, ACNE), and if this season's runway looks are anything to go by, it isn't getting old any time soon. Chloé's A/W 21 shearling coat gave an avant-garde update to the classic aviator style with a dramatic zip-off section. Second-hand, you'll find both '70s button-down styles and cropped aviators in abundance. This is a cosy, chic and time-tested trend.

SHOP MY EDIT

Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

If you've been following my Second-Hand Shopper series, you'll know that making vintage fashion a more integrated part of the average person's wardrobe has become a bit of a mission for me. I know this behavioural change may take a while to shift, but if I can make just one person who was previously ambivalent about pre-loved clothing buy second-hand, then I consider my mission a success.

This is also why every season over the last year, I have created an alternative trend report that is shopped out with vintage finds. Of course, as a publication, we try our best to integrate second-hand clothing into all our content. However, I wanted to carve out this space specifically to show that adopting more sustainable shopping habits doesn't have to mean forgoing that joy and creative experimentation that comes with new-season trends. After all, most fashion trends will have existed in similar iterations in the past.

"The trend cycle means that the previous decades are regularly back in fashion," explains vintage seller Franny Monzemba. "There is a particular je ne sais quoi to be found in vintage and fashion nostalgia. It's a search for authenticity. It can be difficult for some to find their personal style and even more difficult when you take the step to go completely to vintage or second-hand, but thanks to new online marketplaces and social media platforms, it's never been easier to give it a go."

With September now in full swing (anyone for #SecondhandSeptember?), I hand-picked the seven autumn 2021 trends that particularly lend themselves to buying second-hand and asked some vintage industry experts to offer their takes on each throwback look. Let me also inform the budget-conscious among us that vintage offers up plenty of affordable options, and my shopping edit includes bargains from as little as £20. You're very welcome. So if you want to give your new-season shopping list a sustainable kick, scroll down to see and shop my pre-loved alternatives to this season's biggest trends.

1. Elevated Suits

"Suits encapsulate a kind of formality that no other garment can confirm. They have been present in fashion both as business attire and as a ready-to-wear statement for as long as time," explains vintage seller Peter Goldsmith. "They're genderless, universal and inclusive."

SHOP THE TREND

2. Tartan

"Because tartan is such a long-standing traditional pattern of our Scottish neighbours, there are so many vintage options to choose from," explains Katty Patterson, founder of Finds by Foxes. "Many of these are made from quality wool and have been looked after and laundered with care, meaning they look as incredible today as the day they were purchased."

SHOP THE TREND

3. Saturated Colours

"I love the 1980s for all things exaggerated, and if you're looking to colour-block vibrant jewel tones, then this is your era," Patterson states. "One of the most readily available decades for second-hand hunting, you could, without too much trouble, piece together a head-to-toe look, accessories included, in all the colours of the rainbow."

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4. Craft Fabrics

"Patchwork was first used in vintage fashion in the '50s and '60s as a way of being frugal and using leftover scraps of fabric," explains Goldsmith. "Today, it has been adopted by high-end and mainstream fashion labels alike the world over."

SHOP THE TREND

5. Y2K

To re-create this season's Y2K trend, Goldsmith recommends trying "matching denim shorts and cut-off vests, flares, baby-doll crop tops or low-rise jeans with an oversized statement jacket."

SHOP THE TREND

6. Logos

"From the classic Adidas stripes to the Nike tick and the two bold interlocking C's of Chanel to the timeless Medusa head of Versace, you can find all the brands and logos under the sun. Just get searching, and you will find them," says Goldsmith.

SHOP THE TREND

7. Chintz

"The '70s, with its love of pattern, obviously lends itself well to all things chintz, but it can sometimes be a little limited on style or size," explains Patterson. "Alternatively, there are so many chintz-style fabric options out there, formerly curtains and bedspreads, from across the decades readily available from second-hand stores yet easily overlooked. As blanks, these can be transformed into suits, dresses, bucket hats, you name it."

SHOP THE TREND

Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

The Second-Hand Shopper sees Who What Wear's shopping editor, Joy Montgomery, join forces with some of the industry's coolest vintage brands to show you that second-hand does not have to mean second best. This series will give you exclusive access to sellout second-hand drops, which will be hand-selected by our editor and styled to show how you can wear them for the season ahead. Prepare to get clicking because these pieces won't stick around for long.

From the iconic Portobello Market to the bustling streets of Brick Lane, the vintage-market scene has deep roots in London's history. Seamlessly woven within the high-rise apartment blocks and shiny façades of corporate London, the markets are a perfect example of the city's old-meets-new identity—one that continues to draw in the crowds. Of course, some of the city's most famous spots may have developed a certain polish that didn't exist 50 years ago, yet the spirit of market-stall culture remains. 

For this month's Second-Hand Shopper, I have joined forces with Goldsmith Vintage, a brand that started out life as a Brick Lane market stall back in 1990. While the founder, Peter Goldsmith, has grown his namesake brand into a million-pound operation, at its core, it is a story of the power of small business and the internet's ability to give a platform to bricks-and-mortar brands when they need it the most.

Boasting three Central London stores, a cavernous vintage warehouse (the largest in the capital, FYI) and a recently launched website, the Goldsmith Vintage brand merges the traditional, DIY appeal of the vintage market with the throwback '90s aesthetic beloved by Gen Z. Covering womenswear, menswear, unisex and a reworked collection, the online edit is as contemporary as pre-loved gets, with all items professionally photographed and some shot on models. With the majority of items coming in under £100 (with a couple of higher-priced designer exceptions), it's a vision of what vintage could be: a genuine rival to the multi-million-pound fast-fashion machine. 

I wanted my edit to reflect the multifaceted nature of the brand, covering everything from '70s leather coats to '90s button-down dresses. I have also selected both summer and autumn items as, in my experience, when you find that one-of-a-kind vintage buy, you have to snap it up whatever the season. Just as a disclaimer, I have decided not to model a couple of items, which are more than two sizes different from my usual size (a UK 10), as I didn't want to give an inaccurate depiction of the fit. However, I have styled them up as flat lays to give you some outfit inspiration. If in doubt, triple-check the measurements listed on the site. 

But first, I sat down with Peter Goldsmith to pick his brain about everything from his ultimate vintage find (Chanel, of course) to his hopes for the future of the second-hand market.

How did you first get into the vintage business? 

My first vintage business was the result of a market stall in Central London. I would buy and sell items I saw at car boot sales and would sell pieces from my own archive. Before I knew it, the business had built into three Central London stores and evolved into a growing million-pound business. In my view, you have to have the right eye and a good business mind; put those two things together, and you’re unstoppable.

How has the vintage industry changed over your career?

There has been a definite move away from vintage being about classic historical fashion styles. In recent years, the industry has become led by high-street fashion trends, with the '90s dominating the industry for some time now.

What do you think are the main barriers to second-hand becoming a more mainstream practice? 

I think vintage shopping is still largely centred around a regional demographic of shoppers. In the UK, this can be clearly seen in cities like London, Brighton, Manchester and Leeds. However, the rise of the internet, social media and online shopping is helping to break the regional nature of vintage fashion along with its continued exposure in the fashion and wider media outlets.

I also think, historically, audiences might have assumed thrifting is almost a second-class option and that buying vintage is associated with second-hand and is consequently less desirable. Having said that, times are definitely changing. I am increasingly seeing people from across different cultures, ages and regional demographics buying vintage clothing. They are, in my view, increasingly understanding that the garments are made from high-quality fabrics, often superior to what you will find being used in current high-street outlets. It also offers the opportunity to find branded and high-end designer items at a fraction of the usual price. Vintage is definitely already impacting mainstream fashion and will continue to grow over the coming years.

What's been your best-ever vintage find?

I once found a Chanel handbag at a thrift store in New York being sold as a bootleg item. I have sold many Chanel handbags in the past, and we continue to stock them through our webstore and Portobello Road shop, so I have a keen eye when authenticating them. When I saw the bag, I was convinced the item was real. After buying the bag for $40, it later transpired, after being sent to a company that authenticates bags, that my initial assessment was correct, and the bag had a retail value of over £2000. 

What are your top tips for first-time vintage shoppers?

Online shopping is great for people who live outside of major cities and might not have the opportunity to access so many vintage stores. It also offers a safe and easy alternative during the pandemic. Being able to look through an online archive at your own pace from home is also a massive benefit.

However, in my view, first-time vintage shoppers must get out there onto the high street and visit vintage stores first-hand. You can’t beat the atmosphere, touching the garments, chatting to enthusiastic staff and being able to try items on and style yourself in the fitting room. Being on the high street, you can also learn so much just by watching people’s style and trends. Through this, you can inspire your own looks and have greater confidence in ways to wear and explore vintage.

Where would you like to see the vintage industry in five years' time?

I think the vintage industry has the opportunity to be one of the biggest authentic exponents of environmental protection in the fashion industry and can lead the existing fashion industry to become more environmentally conscious. Through buying vintage, you are supporting the recycling industry and rejecting unethical fast fashion and the throwaway landfill culture that surrounds so much of the clothing industry today. I think in five years’ time, vintage fashion can continue to position itself as an ethical and environmentally friendly way of buying fashion and protecting the environment through your everyday.

Scroll down to see and shop my exclusive Goldsmith Vintage edit, which goes live today.

The Checked Blazer

Style Notes: Two words: Christian Dior. With a velvet-lined collar and cuffs and covered buttons and made from the most beautiful grey wool, this is the ultimate heirloom piece. It's listed as a M, but I would say it could happily fit any size between a UK 8 and a 12 depending on the desired fit. I'm usually a UK 10 and have belted it to create a more cinched-in effect. 

SHOP THE LOOK

The Scenic Knit

Style Notes: I'm not usually a novelty-jumper person, but there was something about the Parisian seascape and primary colours that felt unexpectedly premium. Coming with shoulder pads for added impact, this would look great styled with classic tailored trousers and leather loafers—just add a trench come autumn. Très chic (if I do say so myself).

SHOP THE LOOK

The Straight-Leg Jeans

Style Notes: If you've never shopped second-hand before, allow me to point you in the direction of vintage denim. Brands such as Levi's can be found at most second-hand stores and, more often than not, are still in mint condition. This is a pair of the brand's classic 560s, which sit straight on the leg and cinch in at the waist. These are listed as having a 29-inch waist, but I would usually buy a 28-inch, or UK10, for jeans, and they fit me perfectly. Top tip: If in doubt, size up, as you can always get items tailored. 

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The Throw-On Boilersuit

Style Notes: Vintage jumpsuits can be a bit hit-and-miss, whether it's in regard to fit, proportions or simply how well-worn it is. However, this beige one-piece could easily be mistaken for brand-new. It's listed as M/L, but I would say in real life it's more like a S/M, but I prefer a slightly looser fit in general. It looks great both belted and left loose and styled with chunky sandals.

SHOP THE LOOK

The Colour-Pop Mini 

Style Notes: Disclaimer: This dress is a little too small for me. Hence the layering over trousers. That's always the tricky thing with vintage, right? I adore the mid-blue hue, button-up fastening and thigh-grazing length. I'm usually a UK 8 on top and 10 on the bottom, and while the bust fits well, the hips are a bit snug, so I would recommend double-checking those measurements if you're uncertain.

SHOP THE LOOK

The Patterned Denim Piece

Style Notes: There's something about these colourful striped shorts that reminds me of childhood holiday photos from the '90s. They simply put a smile on my face. I would pair them with a white tee, a leather belt and chunky sandals for an easy summer-in-the-city outfit. NB: I didn't try the shorts on, as they're a recommended UK 14 to 18, and I didn't want to give an inaccurate portrayal of the fit by belting them.

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The Long Leather Trench

Style Notes: I'll put my hands up now and admit that I have a bit of a vintage-jacket addiction, especially anything from the '70s. This turquoise-blue number has the dagger collar and the contrast topstitching and is honestly in such amazing condition. Talk about ticking all the boxes. It's a little big on me, but I think it would be perfect on a size 12.

SHOP THE LOOK

The Tailored City Shorts

Style Notes: This is a great example of how easy it is to buy current trends second-hand. Tailored shorts have been everywhere this summer, and this vintage pair comes in a very 2021 beige hue and with an accompanying cream belt. I would say the sizing is accurate. However, it's worth bearing in mind that they fall to just above my knees, and I'm roughly 5'7", so check the inside leg measurement if you're petite. 

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The Statement Belted Blazer

Style Notes: Another day, another vintage jacket. This '80s Versus Versace number comes in the most amazing shade of postbox red with an elasticated belt, which only emphasises the fabulous OTT shoulder pads—a great way to add interest to your favourite jeans. I would recommend it for anyone who wears a UK 8 to 12, depending on how oversized you want it.

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The Feel-Good Printed Jeans

Style Notes: These jeans are a bit of a curveball, but like the landscape jumper, sometimes it's the pieces that feature unexpected fits or fabrics that end up feeling the most high-end. Colourful, straight-cut and printed with the word "Hope" (and don't we all need more of that right now?), these jeans are just amazing. Whether you style it with a basic white shirt or create a clash with a printed tee, these jeans are sure to make a statement. These are listed as a UK 10, but I would say they'd also fit someone who wears a 12. (I'm a 10, and they're a little roomy on me.)

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The Tie-Dye Tee

Style Notes: It's time to revisit your teenage self because tie-dye is back. If, like me, you don't love the idea of going back to boho, I would recommend styling a tie-dye tee (like this very cool pre-loved one) with smart tailored trousers. It's high-low styling at its best. Listed as XL, this is a great unisex style that could fit up to roughly a UK 16, but double-check measurements to be sure. 

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The Suede Party Skirt

Style Notes: I'm all over the checkerboard trend this year, and so naturally, I made a beeline for this amazing suede mini. Listed as a UK 12 to 14, this rainbow-coloured A-line would make a great head-turning party piece, especially when paired with a sleeveless top and heeled boots.

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The Retro-Print Shirt

Style Notes: One thing you will never be short of in a vintage store is printed shirts, a category that can be surprisingly hard to find on the high street, unless you want stripes or polka dots. This style won me over with its green-and-orange colourway and dagger collar and will look great with colourblock separates (see it styled with the leather coat above). 

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Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

From Vestiaire Collective's Parisian roots and Imparfaite Paris's Gallic cool, it's fair to say that the French know a thing or two about vintage fashion. As a dedicated second-hand shopper myself, I've also noticed that it's the French who have long championed a more multifaceted approach to their wardrobes: pairing high-end designers and affordable high street with their one-of-a-kind vintage finds. From fashion influencers to website founders, these preloved hunters really speak my language—well, sartorially anyway.

So I did what any good fashion editor would do, and I emailed some of France's finest vintage fanatics to get exclusive insight into the second-hand pieces that are on their shopping lists this season. And of course, they delivered. Their edits range from casual Levi's jeans and unnamed vintage raffia totes to archival Balenciaga dresses and Chanel sandals—a perfect encapsulation of the eclecticism and multifaceted appeal of shopping vintage. 

My personal favourite has to be Ariane de Béchade's (co-founder of Imparfaite Paris) edit of cool-girl separates, which includes one very cool fringed jacket. However, if you're more of an archival fashion fan, I would recommend heading down to Estelle Chemouny's selection, which is packed full of iconic pieces from fashion runways past. If nothing else, it's essentially high-octane window shopping. Scroll down to see and shop the vintage wish lists of France's coolest fashion insiders. You're welcome. 

Ariane de Béchade, Co-Founder of Imparfaite Paris

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Franny Monzemba, Influencer and Vintage Seller at Yomokoï

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Estelle Chemouny, Co-Founder Paradise Garage

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Léna Farl, Influencer and Founder of Maison Solen

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Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

As any loyal Who What Wear readers will know, we are, and have always been, pretty serious when it comes to vintage fashion and have long believed that it should be an integrated part of the average wardrobe. The second-hand movement has certainly gained momentum over the last few years, yet we believe it is so much more than a passing fad, and regardless of the fluctuations of public perception, we remain dedicated to the pre-loved cause.

Of course, we could not be happier that vintage fashion is finally getting the attention it deserves, and it feels as though every week, we see the launch of another online seller. Understandably, the sheer choice on offer can be overwhelming for second-hand newbies, so I have been scrolling through my Instagram feed to pinpoint nine stores that I return to again and again. 

The amazing thing about vintage is that it is so multifaceted, and the proliferation of new platforms means that there will be an edit out there to cater to your needs. From Finds by Foxes' fabulously size-diverse collections and Darling + Vintage's unique showstoppers to Selena's Shop's '70s appeal and One Scoop Store's contemporary offering, trust me when I say there'll be something for everyone. Scroll down to see and shop my definitive online-vintage-store edit.

1. Best for Elevated Basics: Retold Vintage

For timeless wardrobe staples with an elevated spin, head over to Retold Vintage. One of my most-treasured vintage buys (a bottle-green leather trench) was from the store, and I've been hooked ever since.

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2. Best for Affordable Options: Waiste Vintage

I had been following Sara for years before I realised that she ran her own vintage store. Packed full of eclectic buys that reflect her own impeccable personal style, this is a must-see for those on a budget.

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3. Best for French Style: Imparfaite Paris

Set up as a marketplace with more than 2000 vintage shops registered, Imparfaite Paris is one of the vintage platforms that is most loved by fashion editors. With new pieces hitting the site daily, this is a treasure trove for Gallic style. 

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4. Best for Size Range: Finds by Foxes

The world of vintage isn't always known for being the most accessible size-wise, but Katty from Finds by Foxes is changing that. Her perfectly edited vintage drops feature everything from floral dresses to denim co-ords and come in a range of sizes.

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5. Best for '70s Style: Selena's Shop

Selena's Shop is a Second-Hand Shopper alumnus, chosen for her very chic '70s vintage edits that can't help but put a smile on your face. Scroll down to see the pieces I'm adding to my wish list right now. 

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6. Best for Contemporary Second-Hand: One Scoop Store

If all of the ruffles and paisley prints of traditional vintage feel a little intimidating, then head over to One Scoop Store, the platform that specialises in contemporary second-hand. From high-street to cult designers, the best bits are often posted on Instagram, but they don't stick around for long.

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7. Best for Showstoppers: Darling + Vintage

If there were a prize for the most beautiful imagery from a vintage store, it would have to be Darling + Vintage's. Cassie, the brains (and face) behind the brand, is particularly good at picking showstoppers that deserve the red carpet treatment.

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8. Best for Luxury Handbags: The Hosta

A designer bag is a big investment, but nabbing one second-hand is the ultimate fashion kudos. The Hosta has an enviable edit of big-name brands, from Celine to Chanel, which have all been professionally authenticated before being listed on-site.

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9. Best for Homeware: K+G Curated Space

And finally, one for you vintage-furniture lovers out there. I had to include K+G Curated Space, a lesser-known Etsy shop that I've bought some amazing pieces from. Its imagery alone is enough to have me reaching for the "add to basket" button.

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Up Next: How to Bag a Bargain, According to the Queen of Vintage

Daisy Lowe makes up a particular part of the British fashion crowd. Mates with Alexa Chung and Nick Grimshaw as well as everyone else belonging to that pack, she's always spotted on the front rows of the coolest runway shows such as that of her pal, designer Ashley Williams. The model has been working since she was 2 (yes, really!) and has racked up quite the CV, which includes being selected to model for Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld and securing major gigs for Marc Jacobs and Topshop. She also models for Burberry, Dr. Martens and Converse. There are few major brands she hasn't worked with in some capacity, quite frankly. 

It's, then, quite easy to make the assumption that she knows her fashion and has amassed quite the collection in her wardrobe. Often spotted on the red carpet wearing body-con dresses or tailoring, Lowe has created a very sassy version of archetypal London style. She has recently become the campaign face of Cudoni, a resale site, to sell some of her most beloved vintage and designer pieces. We had the chance to chat with her about which items we can expect to see on the site, which ones were the hardest to part with and how she's been dealing with lockdown (because you have to ask, don't you?). Keep scrolling to find out more…

How did you start working with Cudoni? 

I've always been obsessed with vintage. My mum's always really inspired me in that way. But I do feel like the past year, particularly, with everyone being stuck at home, there was a lot more time to think about how we spend our money and where it goes. I actually recorded a documentary called The Lowe Down just before we went into lockdown all about sustainability and how—in a non-preachy way—to be kinder to the planet on a personal level and still do the things that we love to do. A huge part of that is where we spend our money. I love fashion, and I love dressing up. I think it's a really powerful way of making yourself feel good but also feel like yourself and to express yourself. I really love Cudoni and had before they approached me about working with them, so it was kind of my dream job. Everything I've put up for sale are things that I really love and found difficult to pass on. But each one has their own story, and I wanted to pass on their good luck and give the money to Choose Love.

What pieces, in particular, were the hardest to part with?

There's this beautiful red collared Ghost dress. I wore it to meet my boyfriend's parents. I adore them, and I've had some really great times in that dress. Every time I've worn it, I've always had the most lovely evenings in it. It's such a beautiful shape, really flattering and a great colour. I think it's important to pass things on that mean something. There's also a Paul & Joe orange, floral floor-length dress I wore when I was working with [the brand] in Paris, and I've always had so much fun in that dress and always danced all night in it. Although, I swear it is clean! It's such a joyful dress, so it's another one that was hard to part with. There are also some Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent boots that I've put up for sale. They were from his first collection, and I've hardly worn them because they were just that little bit too narrow for my feet, but they were gorgeous, and I'm obsessed with them. 

You mentioned you did four clear-outs during the pandemic. With sustainability and resale coming together at this moment, do you feel that your attitude to fashion has changed? 

I think even more so, definitely. It's impossible not to notice what companies are completely transparent about how much landfill they operate with and how much recycled fabrics they use, what they do with their samples, their offcuts, etc. Particularly, the past year, there has been such a shift with how transparent companies have become, and it's really inspiring, actually. The power is definitely in the hands of the consumer in a way that it really wasn't before. Social media is so front facing that you can directly contact companies and say, "Why haven't you been more transparent?" People are also thinking about clothes as investment pieces. Save up and spend four times the price on something that will last. It will wash well. It's tailored properly. It's the quality that really matters. That's why Cudoni is so brilliant. If you invest in something like a designer piece but in a couple of seasons or years time you don't love it, then you can resell it back to them and then reinvest. I think they've got a really brilliant platform, actually.

In terms of personal style, did you change your usual look over the pandemic? 

It's funny because today I was going to get my ears pierced with my friend, and I said, "If I wear a nice tracksuit, can I still wear a tracksuit?" We thought Mondays should officially be tracksuit-wearing days. I've always been geared towards wearing comfy clothes. If you don't feel comfortable physically in your clothes, then you don't feel comfortable or confident. I did wear a lot of tracksuits, but I've always loved a good tracksuit. And a lot of onesies. Sorry, I should say all-in-ones so I don't sound like a child [laughs]. I lived in a Madeleine Thompson all-in-one that has rainbows down the side of it. I also lived in Pangaia tracksuits.

Daisy Lowe shot for Cudoni wearing luxury resale pieces.

At Who What Wear, we're also really looking forward to dressing up. What about you? 

I'm really looking forward to dressing up. In fact, I'm going on a date with my boyfriend on Thursday, and I've been planning my outfit for a full two weeks. I'm actually going to wear one of the dresses that I wore in the Cudoni shoot that I had to buy myself. It's a really beautiful slip dress with roses on it, and it has a beautiful cape that goes over your shoulders. A slip dress is a great segue out of a tracksuit.

What's the one thing you can't get dressed without right now? 

I'm still wearing wireless bras because I can't quite cope. I've actually invested in a couple of Wacoal bras that don't have wires. I also got a really cute dusty-pink one from Heist and seamless comfy pants. The tights are amazing, and the packaging is impeccable.

Historically, the world of Instagram fashion has been divided into two camps: the beige-clad minimalists whose idea of a dream wardrobe is 100% The Row and the style extroverts who love a good print clash and live by the dictum "more is more." While this division still exists, in recent years, it feels like the boundaries have blurred, and, in part thanks to the revival of retro trends, there has been an increased interest in incorporating print and dramatic silhouettes into our day-to-day basics. The result is an eclectic mix of ensembles that manage to feel nostalgic, fresh and fun all at the same time. 

As a self-confessed vintage-fashion obsessive, I have, of course, been very much on board with this new approach, and after a year of separation from all my most playful wardrobe pieces, I'm ready to go all out. I have been bookmarking outfits like crazy to get my creative juices flowing, and thankfully, there are plenty to choose from.

For the sake of variety, I've tried to include a few subtler options, such as @the_oluwaseun's denim jacket and flared trousers and @jen_wonders's checkerboard blouse, alongside the more overt throwback looks. But you know I've also embraced plenty of paisley print, platforms and flower-power vibes. You're welcome. Scroll down to see and shop the retro-inspired outfits that are bringing joy to my feed this year. 

Checkerboard Top + Jeans

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Bright Printed Co-Ord

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Fuzzy Jacket + Leather Trousers

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Belted Jacket + Flared Trousers

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Floral Maxi Dress + Slip-On Shoes

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Faux-Fur Jacket + Animal-Print Trousers

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Prairie Dress + Chunky Boots

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Fringed Jacket + Waistcoat

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Up Next: Spring/Summer 2022 Trends: The Only 17 Looks You Need to Know About

Ten minutes into Halston, Netflix's latest must-watch series, I knew I was going to love it. The '70s fashion! The New York backdrop! Ewan McGregor in a patent trench coat! I was long overdue an escapist TV fashion moment (The Queen's Gambit feels like a long time ago), and this well and truly satisfied that craving. Set in New York in the 1970s and '80s, the series centres around the life and era-defining work of fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick, aka Halston, who is played by Ewan McGregor, and his struggle to steer his eponymous fashion empire. 

The real Halston with friend Liza Minnelli

Costume designer Jeriana San Juan has done an incredible job at capturing the high-octane glamour and sensuality that is at the heart of not only Halston's designs but also the decade itself. As a '70s fashion fan, I found it to be a real visual treat. From the sequin-clad costumes of Halston's close friend Liza Minnelli and the nonchalant tailoring of model Elsa Peretti to the liquid silk of the brand's runway gowns and the aviator-sunglasses-and-patent-coat cool of Halston himself. It's honestly the chicest thing on TV right now. 

A snapshot from one of Halston's original runway shows, February 1978

I'm only halfway through the series, but I can safely say that this is a must-watch show for any fashion fan. And yes, I've already spent an evening furiously searching for vintage Halston dresses. So to whet your appetite and give you a little preview of the fabulous style that dominates the series, I've put together a few of my favourite ensembles. Scroll down to see more. (Don't worry: no spoilers.) Enjoy!

See some of our favourite looks from the season:

With their wide-leg trousers and even bigger sunnies, Halston's entourage is just too cool for words. 

A snapshot of Liza Minnelli, played by Krysta Rodriguez, performing at one of Halston's fashion shows. 

Elsa Peretti, played by Rebecca Dayan, was a model and muse to Halston and has one of the best wardrobes of the series. 

Okay, I literally want this outfit in my size. Thanks.

Ultrasuede was one of Halston's biggest fabric innovations and was a huge success with the New York fashion crowd. 

Halston broke with the graphic 1960s aesthetic with his flowing, tie dye gowns. 

Classic yet pulled-together. Another suitably chic look from the designer. 

Elsa Peretti modelling one of the designer's earliest dress designs for potential investors. 

Another dramatic tie-dye look, which could happily be worn in 2021. 

Up Next: The 9 New-In Pieces I'm Bookmarking This Week

Once the dread of bridesmaids everywhere, the floral-clad, puff-sleeve silhouette of Laura Ashley's dresses has become synonymous with the chintzy romanticism of the '80s. Set up by husband-and-wife team Bernard and Laura Ashley, the brand started out as a fabric company in 1953 and opened its first store in London in the late 1960s. As the inspiration for countless contemporary dress brands—Batsheva, O Pioneers and The Vampire's Wife, to name a few—and with a collaboration with high-street brand Urban Outfitters under its belt, Laura Ashley and its iconic frocks remain as strong as ever 70 years later.

"The move towards a more modest femininity has coincided with a throwback to the '80s and has given Laura Ashley a real reawakening," Urban Outfitters' womenswear buyer, Malika Zagzoule, told Who What Wear's Nell Block. "The prints are timeless, and coupled with those original design elements, they have an irresistible nostalgia about them. There's a naïveté and lightness about them that I think holds particular appeal when the world feels quite chaotic!"

Thanks to the accessibility that sites such as Etsy, Depop and eBay have offered the world of vintage, it's never been easier to find one of Laura Ashley's much-coveted dresses. There are also plenty of Instagram vintage sellers, such as Selena's Shop and The Pansy Garden, that regularly sell dresses from the brand, but keep your eyes peeled because these pieces can be snapped up super fast. To save you time, I've done a bit of digging and found 22 Laura Ashley originals that will give your summer dress collection that little nostalgic nod. From party-ready silks and white maxis (brides, take note) to candy stripes and classic florals, scroll down to see and shop my Laura Ashley vintage-dress edit. 

Shop my Laura Ashley dress edit:

Up Next: This Is the Secret to Finding Vintage Laura Ashley Dresses

Put your hands up if you love the thrill of finding something truly unique and special to wear. Me too. One of my all-time greatest fashion pleasures is to go thrifting and uncover a rare gem for a fraction of the price it should be. I miss my weekends spent on Cheshire Street in East London trying to hunt down a slinky vintage pussy-bow blouse, retro tailoring or gaudy '80s earrings.

Because of this desire for clothes and accessories that tell stories, I'm also very inclined to support up-and-coming talent, indie brands and smaller e-commerce platforms, who all offer pieces that aren't run-of-the-mill. I'm still keen to learn about super-popular new-season items from designers, and I'm not immune to the charms of certain high-street buys (like this & Other Stories dress I couldn't resist the other day), but on the whole, I like to have my wardrobe peppered with more unusual finds.

I bought this Stine Goya dress from Studio B when I was pregnant in 2019, and have worn it on repeat ever since.

Below are a handful of online stores that properly live up to the nomenclature of a "boutique." They are smaller, very focused in their edit and offering items you won't find in bigger shops or online platforms. You'll find newer names that are bubbling up in the UK as well as smaller international brands you'd only otherwise find in their homelands. Many of the boutiques featured celebrate artisanal craftmanship and have a sharper focus on sustainability than their big-business peers. So keep scrolling to discover what I think are the best independent boutiques online and shop my fashion, beauty and homeware picks…

1. BEACH FLAMINGO

If it's luxurious resort wear you're after then look no further—your future holidays are about to get a whole lot chicer. Beach Flamingo co-founder Lily Russo is a good friend and former colleague of mine and you can trust me when I say that everything she curates for her online store is put under rigorous testing. Nothing on this website is a poor fit or of poor quality, and it's of the utmost importance to her that every item—from swimwear to kaftans to the newly launched activewear—exists to make women feel great about themselves. Look out for cool new brands as Lily is often first onto these before the bigger stores spot them. You heard it here first.

2. JOAN

Even the name Joan just gets me. This London-based online store was set up in 2017 by Cat Hocking and has proven to be a small-but-perfectly formed hotbed for fresh British and international talent. The edit of contemporary womenswear brands includes names you'll know (Alighieri and House of Sunny, for example) as well as names you won't (Uants and La Manso are two favourites of mine), and it's all shot in a really low-key, super-authentic way which means you can instantly imagine these cute pieces in your own wardrobe. 

3. ETSY

If you haven't yet discovered the wealth of new design and craft talent that is on Etsy alongside all of the vintage, then let me introduce you! Yes, I love looking for pre-loved pieces on there and have some second-hand shops that I've bookmarked as favourites, but there are a few little indie labels that are well worth checking out too across fashion and homewares in particular…

4. KHOEO

Founded by London-based PR gurus Charlie Boud and Skye Harrison, it's no wonder that KHOEO has landed with an impressive bang. Only launching a few weeks ago this new site already boasts a heap of influencer contributions and a cool roster of labels we'd like to buy into across fashion, beauty and lifestyle. They've created an one-stop shop where you can fill your basket with everything you desire, rather than hopping from one retailer to the next. There's a certain whimsy or lightness to the overall edit, which means you'll find plenty of soft shades, floral prints and Instagrammable beauty products aplenty.

5. CULT MIA

There are now a few great online hubs with a focus on sustainable fashion (Gather & See, Reve En Vert and Net-a-Porter's Sustain edit are all well worth checking out), but the latest to pique my attention is Cult Mia—a platform that essentially brings local, artisanal goods to you directly. The brand even has a section dedicated to its most sustainable finds. So where you'd perhaps pick up something special on a far-flung adventure you can instead add these items to your wardrobe via your living room sofa. As well as plenty of new-in pieces they also have a Cult Classics section that showcases permanent items from different designers. It's all rather bohemian and elaborate. My kind of site!

6. STUDIO B

Bethany Rowntree is the one-woman power-house behind one of the team's favourite online boutiques: Studio B. She does everything solo, from buying to PR to social media, and right now she's having a well-deserved break to get married! So although you can't get the below pieces immediately shipped to you, she'll be returning to shipping on May 5. Bethany's guiding principle is to encourage her consumer to buy less and buy better, so everything she offers is carefully considered and very, very cute. She's particularly good at spotting the next It dress, so if you're into that category, here's your new go-to.

7. KOIBIRD

If over-the-top style is your aim, shopping from Koibird is the game! Both online and with a bricks and mortar store in Marylebone, you can't miss the vibe cemented by founder Belma Gaudio. Whether via the store design and merchandising or the ultra-punchy graphics on-site, the wild clothes and accessories from this bold boutique is reflected in everything they do. You'll find lots of niche fashion brands, as well as event and holiday-specific edits such as skiwear. Not for the shy and retiring.

8. LISA SAYS GAH

All the cool girls in America shop from Lisa Says Gah—and I follow them religiously on Instagram to know what's up. As well as stocking some of the most popular cult labels (think Paloma Wool, Susan Alexandra and Meadows), there is also an in-house brand that's full of the kind of kooky basics so many closets can benefit from, like ribbed crop tops in unusual colours, headstock retro claw clips and perfect high-waisted trousers. I'll take it all!

9. WOLF & BADGER

There are now quite a few online marketplace businesses that bring together brands and stores from across the globe, but London-born Wolf & Badger has been setting the agenda in fostering a community of over 1000 brands, as well as its approach to being a more regenerative business overall. The brand offsets its carbon emissions and work hard to make everything from sourcing to manufacturing as transparent as possible for its shoppers. Co-founders Henry and George Graham have gone from a small Notting Hill store in 2010 to a huge flagship in London's Coal's Drop Yard and in New York's SoHo. What to buy? The options are almost endless, so I often zone in on jewellery, homewares and (when socialising is on) cool party pieces.

For those who consider themselves vintage fanatics, Bay Garnett has long been regarded as an oracle of second-hand inspiration. Having worked as a stylist, editor and author for over 20 years, Bay is credited as one of the earliest proponents of the thrifting movement, helping to introduce vintage to the world of high fashion. Over her career, she became known for her use of pre-loved clothing in glossy magazine shoots and her regular collaborations with Oxfam (of which she is a senior independent fashion advisor), through which she helped launch everything from vintage runway shows to boundary-pushing initiatives, such as Secondhand September. 

"I remember when I was younger, growing up in Somerset, my mum used to take me to a vintage shop in the nearby town of Frome called Vipers. It had amazing 1930s bias silk dresses, lace and beautiful floral tea dresses. I remember it so clearly. A small little treasure trove of a shop", Bay explains. "It's been amazing to see how much the public's perception of vintage has changed over the course of my career. People did always love it, but now it has become so mainstream, which is great. It's amazing to see how huge it's become."

Now with a podcast, This Old Thing, under her belt and an accompanying lineup of A-list guests (recent names include Paloma Faith, Rachel Weisz and Emeli Sande), Bay's influence within the industry shows no sign of fading. Of course, with her extensive knowledge of the market, both online and offline, I couldn't not get the insider intel from the queen of vintage. Scroll down to read her top tips for where to shop second-hand, what she's buying this season and her dream vintage find.

Where are your favourite places to buy vintage, both online and offline?

I love eBay and Oxfam online—those two are enough for me online. And I love love love Portobello Market on a Friday morning. The British Red Cross in Chelsea and Portobello Road are good, and Traid is also great. But I always just pop into any of them when I can. For a more curated lineup, I would recommend Relik, Found & Vision and Resurrection in New York. 

Shop Oxfam Vintage Online

What items will you be buying second-hand this season? 

Actually, nothing specific. I'm not looking to buy so much as enjoying trawling Oxfam online and eBay. Although at the moment I'm really into men's vintage designer shirts. 

Shop designer vintage men's shirts

What are your top tips for those who are shopping vintage for the first time?

Go with a sense of purpose. Think about finding something you would love to find and be tuned in! Even if you don't find that piece, you will almost certainly find something else that you love. Have focus! Even in the most relaxed way. 

What would be your dream vintage purchase?

Good question. It changes a lot. At the moment, the most perfect faded beaten up, (slightly oversized) denim faded shirt. Frayed and worn. Think the American West.

Shop Denim Shirts

Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Secondhand Expert

The Second-Hand Shopper is a new franchise that sees Who What Wear's Shopping Editor, Joy Montgomery, join forces with some of the industry's coolest vintage brands to show you that second-hand does not have to mean second best. This series will give you exclusive access to sellout second-hand drops, which will be hand-selected by our editor and styled to show how you can wear it for the season ahead. Prepare to get clicking, because these pieces won't stick around for long.

For my April instalment of The Second-Hand Shopper, I wanted to do something a little different and join forces with Finds By Foxes, a platform that specialises in mid and plus-size vintage pieces. Except, this is the issue isn't it? Size diversity shouldn't really be a point of difference, but far too often it is regarded as a concession, particularly in the UK, where the industry is somewhat behind the times. Sadly, feeling excluded from the world of fashion has just become the norm for those who are a size 14 or above (it's worth noting that the average size in the UK is a 16), and vintage simply another frontier which has become mired, whether intentionally or not, by the restrictions of a supposed 'body ideal'. 

Of course, I'm not saying that I haven't been part of the problem. It took me three instalments of my Second-Hand Shopper series to realise that I was offering up edits that only came in my size (a UK 8–10), and in turn, I wasn't acknowledging the limitations that this might impose on those reading my articles. If vintage is to become truly accessible, which I believe it should, it has to cater to every shape, size and style. 

I feel unbelievably lucky to have found Katty Patterson, the brains (and face) behind Finds By Foxes, a platform that offers premium vintage clothing edits and style inspiration, all tailored to UK sizes 12 and above. Katty, who is a size 16, expertly styles all her second-hand finds on herself and her collections are packed full of both versatile basics and personality-packed pieces. It was such a joy to create this edit with her, and while I personally chose the items listed below, it was all from a rail that she had meticulously curated and sourced over the last few months. It is also her styling that truly brings the pieces to life.

I sat down with Katty (digitally) to discuss everything from size diversity and vintage shopping tips to the impact of the pandemic on small businesses. Scroll down to read our interview and shop my Find By Foxes vintage edit, which goes live today.

What's your earliest memory of buying vintage clothing?

I was quite late to the thrifting game compared to some. I didn't grow up in second-hand stores and had no real knowledge of the fashion sphere. Then at 18, I spent a year in California and it was like a sensory explosion. The thrift and vintage scene was huge and I felt an instant creative connection with this laidback, eclectic fashion dynamic. I remember buying a hand-knitted, baby blue pixie hood/scarf combo from a vintage store in Huntington Beach the same day I picked up a second-hand pink, tutu skirt and I am 150% sure I wore them together.

What inspired you to set up a vintage business with an emphasis on mid and plus sizes?

I've been shopping vintage for half my life now and selling it in some form for over a decade. Back in 2008, I had an eBay store and always shot the pieces on myself. I always felt it gave life to clothes and brought a wearability to pieces that might seem otherwise outdated or intimidating. Back then I was a size 12 and didn't have too much trouble satisfying my vintage desires. But over the next 10 years, my body started to change.

I've had three kids in the last six years and much of my former vintage collection no longer fit me. I took a break and honestly felt a bit disheartened and that, perhaps, the vintage scene was no longer for me. It seemed like most of the options out there for a UK 16 and over were just not my style. I relaunched my brand in 2019 selling kids vintage and homewares only.

Occasionally, I'd list something I'd found that I could actually model, and each time I always had the same feedback, thanking me for bringing an amazing option for curvy bodies. I realised then that I wasn't alone and with my sourcing and styling experience—there was a chance I could pull together some magic. So I started again, honed my focus and have grown the brand and rebuilt my own vintage wardrobe as a result.

Why is there is a lack of size diversity in the vintage market as a whole?

I think there's a general perception that what we would classify as "modern mid-plus size" people didn't exist before now, whereas that's absolutely not the case. The reality is though that for whatever reason it really can be harder to find quality mid-plus pieces. Natural fibres versus polyester. Tailored versus shapeless. Statement versus every day. Pieces in larger sizes were often custom or homemade, and I read recently that often they've been handed down through families and worn beyond repair. This is my job and even I find it nearly impossible to source certain pieces. I wish it wasn't the case as there's nothing I love more than Space Age cocktail dresses and palazzo co-ords.

I do, however, think it's possible to bring collections that rival high street brands. This is my own personal goal, but I do think you would need to be focused on this particular niche to do it regularly and at scale. I know I still have work to do and this year I have started sourcing on a rolling 12-month basis so I can curate a more diverse range of sizes within each drop. I am also grateful for the recently established Ahead of the Curve market that brings together hundreds of pieces in a wide variety of styles, ranging from UK 16–30+.

What are your top tips for shopping vintage as a mid or plus-size person?

Know your measurements inside out. We all know our height at the drop of a hat, but for some reason, we don't know the circumference of our hips. Focus especially on any area that you regularly struggle with, be it thighs or uppers arms, and always ask if they aren't provided. And if you're shopping in person? Bring a tape measure! It will save you much time and heartache.

What impact has the pandemic had on your business, both good and bad?

It's a hard one to answer in one sense, as the brand in its current form only launched at the end of 2019. In the last year, I've connected and built wonderful relationships with customers and sellers alike. The one thing I've been hyper-aware of in the last year, however, is the fact that there are going to be many people who aren't, perhaps, in the position to make purchases and I want to be a source of more than just clothes.

I wanted my styling experience to be of use to others irrespective of whether they can or want to shop with me. So I've made a conscious effort to regularly record styling Reels and IGTVs on Instagram that shows how to restyle and repurpose vintage pieces in fresh ways using what you already have in your wardrobe. It's this, I think, that's helped build a community of people who know I'm human and I'm always here to help. I hope that continues in the post-pandemic days that are to come.

Where do you hope to see the second-hand clothing industry in five years' time?

I'd like to think that repairing/repurposing/re-selling/swapping your own wardrobe will be the norm. I imagine there will be a great deal more second-hand and vintage brands in direct competition with former high-street giants. And I'd like to see vintage options featured within magazine fashion edits as standard.

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Up Next: How to Find the Best Vintage Pieces, According to a Second-Hand Expert

Vintage and secondhand clothing is a market which, for decades, has allowed many to express themselves in ways they perhaps didn't even know they were capable of. Who knew that a grey schoolboy's wool blazer was the item I'd been missing (I somehow made it fit but lost full flexibility in my arms whilst wearing it) or that a floral floor-length housecoat would be my knockout summer staple? (This was my peak, if you ask me.) I'm here to show you how to integrate it into your day-to-day life.

The idea of secondhand has often been dismissed by many due to the ease and certainty of the fast-fashion market. With the allure of free returns, the chance to shop multiple pieces (often in the dozens) and all-in-one delivery, many are put off by the thought of rifling through a rail or aimlessly scrolling on a resale app.

But today's technology has rendered secondhand shopping a walk in the park, and now, with the click of a few buttons, you can have a unique piece arrive at your door within a few days thanks to the likes of Vinted, Vestiaire and Depop to name a few. These apps allow you to shop from the comfort of your own home and, in turn, allow you to do the same with your own unwanted pieces. Whilst I still encourage you to rifle through the rails of your local charity shop and support small businesses within the market stalls and shops, keep reading for tips, information and guidance from experts followed by beautiful pieces available to give a new life to your wardrobe.

My own relationship with vintage and secondhand roller-coasters up and down in waves. With a little patience, some absolute gems can be found amongst the heaving rails, and if you're lucky, you can find personalised details from previous owners stitched into the fabrics too. I was the self-proclaimed champion of taking a pair of scissors to my own newly acquired pieces. I'd remove sleeves, shorten the hemlines and cinch in the waists of multiple dresses. One part-time job in a vintage shop had me tucked away with a sewing machine shortening every dress that came through their doors, thus maintaining Liverpool's reputation as a micro-mini-loving city! I was a minimum wage–earning teenager with much to say in regards to print clashes and experimental scarf tying, and the more affordable prices allowed me to express myself without having to borrow money from my mum.

WHAT THE EXPERTS HAVE TO SAY:

As the widespread push for more sustainability within brands, households and businesses escalates, more are turning to vintage and secondhand clothing and accessories over fast-fashion alternatives. A spokesperson for Depop says, "Since our inception, our community has helped make circular fashion desirable and accessible to more people by making secondhand cool, lifting the stigma it was once attached to. A simple way to reduce the overall environmental impact of fashion is to reuse what already exists—displacing brand-new purchases with secondhand ones. Research shows that if, on average, a garment was worn twice as much, then lifecycle GHG emissions of the garment could be 44% lower." A report conducted by the app in 2022 discovered that nine in 10 purchases made on Depop prevent the purchase of a brand-new item elsewhere.

Bella Hadid is a huge vintage fan and flaunts her finds regularly. Jackets are her forte.

Over the last few years, the major apps have gained momentum. Vinted has seen its 1.2 million registered users in the UK in 2021 rise to 16 million today. Natacha Blanchard, the consumer lead at Vinted says, "Our recently published Climate Impact Report showed that shopping secondhand on Vinted really is a better choice for the climate than buying new. Secondhand actually is the first choice for many people, as the report also found that a fifth of Vinted members would still choose to buy a secondhand item over new, even at a similar price. Therefore, we believe that secondhand, as part of the circular economy model, can be one part of the solution to the challenges faced by the fashion industry in terms of impact on the climate, even if it's not the whole or only solution."

According to 1 Million Women, "If one million women bought their next item of clothing secondhand instead of new, we would save six million kilograms of carbon pollution from entering the atmosphere."

Of the above, Clare Lewis, founder Retold Vintage, tells us, "This quote from 1Million Women back in 2018 was the kick-starter to me turning my passion for vintage clothing into a business. I had just finished a 15-year job with a high-street brand, and I was becoming more aware of the damaging effects of the fashion industry. The immediate connection of how a small change in behaviour can have such a positive consequence really inspired me to start encouraging more people to love vintage and pre-owned fashion like I did. What started out as a market stall then went on to me having my own website and studio. Retold's offering now includes bridal, consignment, rental and jewellery collaborations. I'm proud to have built a loyal customer base spanning 20 countries."

Clarissa Bowman, founder of Amo Vintage, has also been heavily involved in vintage fashion for many years, for both work and personal wardrobes. "Having originally started my career as a stylist, I always found so much character in vintage and secondhand pieces I had found along the way that I would always incorporate them into shoots. Vintage and secondhand pieces bring such character and history to an outfit, and I loved to be able to show that in contemporary fashion. From that, I knew from an early point of my career that these pieces deserved as much attention as current-day pieces. It was just a matter of time!"

From simply glancing at the brand's Instagram, you can easily note that the folks at Amo are experts in sourcing great footwear, especially cowboy boots. Well-made shoes often possess a well-matched higher price tag, so for a more accessible choice, secondhand is often the best option. "You can always try to buy what's on-trend, but then you're forever chasing, and you can't focus on really special items. At Amo, we source pieces that we believe in and would wear ourselves, and then it's a bonus when it becomes 'trendy,'" Bowman says.

Vintage lover and expert, stylist and editor Rosie Williams—founder of The Daisy Chain Shop UK—has been seeking out the best pieces for over two decades and knows the ins and outs of all of the apps and websites like the back of her hand. "I started working with vintage and secondhand when I was 12 years old. I opened an eBay account because I was desperate for a Juicy Couture velour hoodie, which I couldn't afford full price, so I used my pocket money to hunt down a secondhand one. It stayed in my wardrobe for 20 years until I sold it last summer!" she says. "I've always had taste which was far more expensive than my income, so I needed to be smart with shopping secondhand and vintage so that I could stretch my budget as far as possible. I really got into vintage shopping post-university when I was on an intern wage and wanted unique pieces that no one else was likely to have. I founded The Daisy Chain Shop in order to create a chain of circular fashion to enable each piece to be passed on to the next person and create a new story. That and my daughter's name is Daisy!"

INSPIRED? SEE THE EXPERTS' TIPS FOR SHOPPING THE BEST VINTAGE PIECES:

1. CHECK THE FABRIC CONTENT

This is one of the first things I look for when it comes to shopping for warmer items, especially coats. Often, a high-wool-percentage coat can be a cheaper or price-matched alternative to its high-street counterpart, which often bears a much lower wool percentage and isn't nearly as warm. The same goes for knitwear—look for a high percentage to reduce the need for further layers beneath.

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2. ALWAYS CHECK SIZING AND SIGNS OF WEAR AND TEAR

Sizing can prove tricky with the older pieces, especially with waist sizes. Most sellers should include a thorough measurement breakdown of their garments, enabling you to make sure that a size 10 from the '60s is, in fact, close to the size 10 of today. This is especially true with jeans. I find that the waist number can sometimes feel way off the size you usually buy. Whilst I'm on the subject of jeans, most of my favourite and most worn pairs have been sourced secondhand!

Sellers should also include any damage in the description and imagery, so be sure to check through everything, and feel free to ask them questions if you feel you need further clarification.

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