2023 has granted us a year of defining trends and sweeping fashion phenomena. Microtrends have spanned from fruit-centred aesthetics (Tomato and Strawberry Girl), pop culture inspired Barbiecore and Mermaidcore, and then came the attainment of the quiet luxury aesthetic. Meanwhile, subdued trends have coasted alongside these and presented us with some of the most elevated styles of clothing.

Although the styles reinforced on the catwalk have been varied, the consensus for 2023 fashion is that extended hemlines are in and the notion of modest dressing is here to stay. What the micromini was to 2022, the maxi is to ’23. The styles introduced have included sweeping denim skirts, generous swathes of silk and free-flowing tailored trousers. Womenswear has become sleek and occasion-forward—from the fluidity and lustre of bias-cut dresses to longline waistcoats matched with full-circle skirts. Modest fashion has been celebrated by Islamic women for years and it’s now widely recognised for its stylistic references and refinement. Referring to less skin-bearing styles, it birthed a plethora of demure necklines—cowl, boat-neck, and rippled fabrics.

I’ve pulled six inspirational outfits from our Instagram favourites—from maxi skirts and blazer pairings to imaginative ways to elevate a poplin shirt. As we head towards autumn and the temperatures drop, these looks will undoubtedly come into their own and work on rotation in our wardrobes. I, for one, can't wait. Scroll on to discover the six modest autumn outfits I'm re-creating this season.

1. Wrap Cardigan + Linen Trousers

Style Notes: Tones will inevitably get darker as the seasons change but there's something statement about wearing natural fabrications in said tones. It's slightly moody whilst retaining the nonchalent character of linen and cotton. Stretch your wear out of these pieces until we have to bundle up.

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2. White Shirt + Full Skirt + Slingback Heels

Style Notes: Floaty lengths, tick. Crisp tailoring, tick, and bold jewels, tick. Sylvie's look is one after my heart and an ensemble I'd likely wear in five years time.

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3. Relaxed Blazer + Linen Skirt + Flats

Style Notes: Mira is the Queen of fashion forward modest outfits. Here, she juxtaposes textiles for a transitional look you can wear from now.

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4. Relaxed Polo T-shirt + White Maxi Skirt + Heeled Boots

Style Notes: Make like Marilyn and don a neutral toned extended hemline look as we usher towards autumn. The natural fabrications and pale colourways are less common in the cooler months but it makes this look all the more inspiring.

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5. Tailored Trousers + T-Shirt + Mules

Style Notes: Anne-Victoire demonstrates the appeal of pairing simple elements together. The individual components are pared-back but together it creates a sleek uniform.

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6. High Neck Maxi Dress 

Style Notes: This is my favourite dress style this year. I adore the impact of a high neckline maxi dress with a streamlined silhouette. Just add a bag and pumps and you're set for the evening.

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Next Up: I'm Anti-Trend But These New-Season Items Work With My Autumn Capsule Wardrobe

As a modest dresser, autumn just happens to be my favorite season. While I've figured out the formula to layering in the warmer months, I love the ease of throwing on a blazer or cardigan without having to worry about sweating. While I like to add a few trendy pieces to my closet each season, it's the staples that I've been prioritizing. I keep them on rotation more often, and they make my more out-there pieces much easier to style. If you're someone who is always down for a statement piece, it's important to invest in simple items that you can style your fun pieces around. It's all about balance.

Below, I've rounded up the items that I've been shopping (and wearing) as September approaches. I've included a variety of price points and styles, so you have plenty of options to choose from. Keep scrolling for your fashion download.

Loose Trousers

I can't stress enough how important loose trousers in your most-worn colours are. While I love a denim or printed moment, it's the staple trousers that I come to rely on again and again. Don't be afraid to play around with the texture or silhouette as I did with this plissé pair.

Shackets

Shockingly, I didn't own a shacket till this year. I always thought they'd make me look bulky, but I was wrong. They have the perfect boxy-but-structured look, and I love how you can wear them as a top or open them up over a T-shirt. It just looks so polished, don't you think?

Vests

Vests are no longer a trend in my book. They're a full-on wardrobe staple. Knit or suited, I love them. They're perfect for modest dressing because they can provide coverage if I'm wearing a fitted top or dress underneath and if I want an extra layer but don't want to put on a jacket.

Oversize Blazers

If you haven't found the perfect blazer, your search has come to an end. Many retailers have finally perfected the loose silhouette of your dreams, so if there's any time to get your hands on one, it's now. You can opt for neutral tones or leather with a pop of colour if you really want to dive in.

Knit Sets

I was recently told my style is described as "cozy and cool," and I'm proud to hold such a title. My secret? Finding comfortable pieces in sophisticated silhouettes, like a button-down knit set. 

As a modest dresser, I live for the colder weather, as it calls for a whole lot of layering. I can comfortably wear a sweater, blazer, jacket, and boots in bliss without looking like Joey Tribbiani from that one Friends episode (you know the one). When spring starts to approach, layering is still possible, but the weather for the most part brings warmer temperatures, so there are a few essentials I rely on to keep me both covered and comfortable. 

While I won't be layering heavy knits, most of my essentials consist of lightweight materials that can easily be worn together or separately. If you're also a modest dresser or are just looking for some ways to incorporate modest style into your spring wardrobe this year, then keep scrolling for my six go-to pieces. I've even included some outfit inspiration to show how I've styled them in seasons past so you can start planning your outfits right now.

1. Blazers

I'm going to miss my coats, but a lightweight blazer is the perfect additional layer to go over T-shirts. Instead of heavier wool, I tend to lean towards lighter options in the spring since the weather is still cool enough for a little layering.

2. Lightweight Coat

A trench coat is always deemed the perfect spring coat, and I didn't get the hype until I got my own. It feels so light but perfect on those days when there's a little breeze. Plus, it goes with almost anything, trust me on that one.

3. Airy Blouses

Airy blouses are always my savior in the warmer months, as they pair easily with jeans or wide-leg pants when I'm not in the mood to do too much thinking for my outfit. I tend to prefer ones with interesting sleeves and detailing, but there are basic options on the market too.

4. Cardigans

Autumn and spring are my favorite months simply because I can throw on a cardigan and walk out the door. There are a variety of more lightweight ones now, which I love as much as chunkier knits.

5. Button-Ups

I steal button-downs from my dad's closet like it's my job. Can you blame me? They're so versatile. You can wear them as a breathable top over jeans or you can copy my personal favorite styling trick, which is to tie them over dresses for the perfect breezy layer.

6. Dresses

Dresses seem like an obvious option, but I still had to add it in here. If you're looking for comfortable dresses, try to look for fabrics like cotton or poplin instead of chiffon or viscose, which many tend to come in.

Next: our guide to the key trends for spring summer 2021. 

As part of an ongoing partnership, British-born fashion designer Hana Tajima teamed up with Uniqlo to design a modest F/W 20 collection that was released last week. Her designs experiment with elegant silhouettes that are intentionally nonrestrictive and comfortable. Part of this comfort comes from the pieces themselves—the collection is stocked with items like breezy wide-cut pants, loose button-down tops, and flowy dresses in an array of rich neutrals such as sage green, cream, and rust. The other part comes in from Uniqlo’s innovative fabrics, such as Airism, which has the technology to wick moisture and release heat, all while providing UV protection. That technology is exactly how Tajima is able to design a layering piece like a turtleneck that can help you stay cool and that you can wear year-round.

Tajima’s collection for Uniqlo isn’t just about modest clothing, though. It’s about clothing that allows the person wearing it to express their identity and confidence. "We women are constantly adapting to change. I want clothing that is always a part of myself, items that are able to shift freely and easily from one style to something else,” Tajima said in a press release. "While retaining comfort, by focusing on form over decoration, I want these clothes to redefine what it is to be feminine. To let our own personal stories be the stories we wear.”

We spoke with Tajima to hear more about the collection and to answer some of the fashion questions she's asked about most. Ahead, learn about where she looks for design inspiration, her top styling tips, and the pieces she’s already wearing.

Where do you get inspiration for your designs?

"Long answer is that I’m really interested in the way that clothes are both the expression of something very esoteric and something outside of ourselves, but the form in which they present is this very tangible, human thing that we can all understand. And so the interplay of those two things is very exciting to me and very interesting because I do think that clothes are powerful. They can change the way we think and the way we think about ourselves. So that is the main inspiration on why I do what I do.

"But simple answer is that sometimes I’ll see someone with a sense of style that I think is really intriguing, and through the process of trying to figure out why I think it’s so interesting, that inspires me to want to make things.”

"This dress is an example of a method of construction I've been experimenting with."

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Which colours go well together?

"For colours that go well together, especially ones that you’re wearing, what you can do is either just go full-on head-to-toe in one colour—doesn’t matter how bright it is—you know it’s going to match because it’s the same colour. Or keep your base pretty neutral, so darks, blacks, and blues, with a pop of colour or neutrals with then a little pop of colour. Because if you just have a really neutral base with a little pop of colour, you know that’s going to work.”

"This set in this colour is something I’ve been wearing a lot. The texture of the cotton is dreamy.”

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What are your tips for dressing if you're shorter?

"Tips for dressing shorter—which I am—it’s really just about balance and proportion. So that might mean if you’re shorter, higher waistlines to give you a little extra length in your leg, but whatever size you are, whatever height you are, the most important thing is that your clothes fit you. So make friends with a tailor, find someone that you trust, someone that's really good at what they do, or learn to do it yourself."

"I love the structure of this jacket. It’s got some power.”

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Next, see our guide to the key trends for autumn winter 2020.

When I first wrote this article on modest fashion four years ago, Pinterest UK told me that searches for "modest fashion" were up 500% since the beginning of the year. Looking back, it wasn’t so much that modest fashion itself was being searched for more but that the industry and audience were wising up to its potential. Brands, designers and stores were finally coming around to the fact that a huge market of fashion-loving people had, until then, been sorely underserved. Fast-forward to this year, and the search results are indicative of just how much more engaged and active many modest shoppers are. YoY, "abayas fashion” is the second most-searched-for term overall in women’s fashion on Pinterest. Meanwhile, over on Lyst, pageviews have increased by 39% in the past six months for "modest kaftans.” Not only is the general interest increasing, but we're now at a stage where things are getting specific, and rightly so.

A look from the Stine Goya runway. 

Back in 2019, the global modest fashion market was already reportedly worth hundreds of billions and was set to scale up by gargantuan proportions over the next five years. Fast-forward to 2022, and the forecasted numbers aren’t far off. The State of the Global Islamic Economy Report for 2020/2021 explains that Muslim spend on apparel and footwear increased by 4.2% YoY in 2019 to $277 billion, and although the pandemic did negatively impact the original growth that experts predicted, it is expected that numbers will bounce back to $311 billion in 2024. 

A look from the Huishan Zhang runway. 

A quick glance on Instagram and TikTok reveals a host of new names and faces bringing modest-fashion looks to a wider audience. "Social media has changed the modest-fashion landscape, as it’s made the modest-fashion world more visible,” explains Who What Wear U.S.’s assistant market editor Yusra Siddiqui. "Before social media, people had a cookie-cutter image of what a modest dresser looked like, and having the opportunity to see people around the world shows that there is no exact image or persona for the modest dresser.”

So it would seem that modest fashion is everywhere. H&M launched a range earlier this month centered on modest silhouettes that are "perfect for upcoming Eid celebrations,” according to the press release. But what exactly is modest fashion? As a whole, this movement has been picking up the pace for over a decade in the fashion mainstream, but there’s still a fogginess about what it means to be a modest dresser, what it looks like and how it’s influencing style-aware people right now. I spoke to a range of experts in the field to understand more. Keep reading to discover everything you need to know about modest fashion, as well as some shopping picks for the season.

So what does "modest fashion" actually mean?

Hodan Yousuf's experimental layering and amazing hat collection deserve attention.

If there's one thing all of the women I spoke to agree on, it's this: There is no one definition of what modest fashion means, but it essentially relates to having a degree of awareness when it comes to covering up parts of your body. This chasm of information we cannot categorise and pigeonhole contributes greatly to the mass market's uncertainty of how to communicate with and supply to women who want modest fashion. It can also make anyone who isn't personally versed in the concept feel ill-equipped to talk about it, but perhaps confirming its ambiguity can help to push the concept forward.

Noor often layers jersey pieces to create interesting looks.

Shanara Matin, CEO and creative director of Naayib London, admits that even experts in the arena, such as herself, are not immune to misconceptions surrounding modest dressing now. "I continue to learn so much about what modest dressing means to people, and I think that’s the big takeaway itself,” she tells me. "My vision for Naayib was that it be cross-cultural in appeal, and we’ve been happily surprised just how much it does reach across different communities of interest, identity and place. There are really, really diverse aspirations and motivations for looking for clothing that is not focused on enhancing the pure physicality of our bodies but just as much about dressing for ourselves as any other approach to fashion in that it’s determined by personal priorities and our own self-image of how we want to participate in the world.”

"The reality is that everyone has their own idea of what modest fashion means to them."

Model Halima Aden at the CFDAs in 2019 wearing a leather coat and printed headscarf.

"Modest fashion as a term, as a market term, came to prevalence in the mid-2000s, and this was partly because a number of the brands that first started up came from designers and creative entrepreneurs who were themselves religiously motivated," says Reina Lewis, professor of cultural studies at London College of Fashion, UAL. She explained to me that the internet made it possible for savvy, underserved religio-ethnic individuals and groups to start providing both the products and content that they were missing.

As Hana Tajima—the British Japanese Muslim fashion designer who has repeatedly collaborated with Uniqlo on a range of modest-friendly fashion—tells me, "The reality is that everyone has their own idea of what modest fashion means to them. And that runs alongside people's personal preferences of colour and style. It's such a broad idea that gets very narrow inside those two words."

Erica Davies owns a veritable catalogue of modest dresses that could suit many wardrobes.

So, in brief, modest fashion can describe varying degrees of covering up on purpose. The decision can be due to religio-ethnic fulfillment or to attain a certain aesthetic and level of ease because it is not just a trend that's tied to spirituality.

What's going on in mainstream retail for modest fashion right now?

Manchester-based Amira is our go-to person for casual streetwear looks.

First up, let's look at the primary stat that gets referenced time and again. According to the Global Islamic Economy Report, the Muslim fashion spend alone in the UK is estimated to reach $311 billion by 2024. This is, in part, due to an increasing number of millennial Muslim women—or Generation M—who have larger amounts of disposable income thanks to their new positions in the workplace rather than the home.

Outside of facts and figures, take a second to think about where fashion is headed right now: Social media has prompted diversity to become a mainstay—not a gimmick—within the industry. It's also shone a light on the (obvious) fact that women of different shapes, faiths, colours, sizes and backgrounds can be just as stylish and can be equally valuable customers.

H&M's Spring Statements collection was angled towards Eid celebrations.

The global response every time the modest-fashion market is addressed highlights just how much this faction wants to be spoken and catered to. When DKNY marketed a Ramadan collection of existing pieces that were suitable for modest dressers in 2014, the press coverage was phenomenal. The same goes for when H&M selected Mariah Idrissi to feature in a video in 2015. She became the first hijab-wearing model to feature in one of the megalith's campaigns. She tells me her life changed overnight. "I was scouted in a shopping centre soon after graduating university and [had been] planning on working for myself in a creative field, but I never expected to be a model," she says.

"That went viral within minutes," Lewis says of the high-street campaign. "I think the brands involved haven't realised the appetite for this … how much it would get taken up. I think Mariah got more traction and coverage than the other people involved in it, but the video was innovative in a number of ways in terms of how it presented social diversity for fashion."

If I'm not religious, can I be a part of the movement?

If you like Prada, you're going to love Taqwa.

Lewis explains that while the modest fashion market is predominantly growing within the Abrahamic faiths (that's Judaism, Christianity and Islam), according to census data, more and more young people are identifying as "spiritual, not religious." With that in mind, it's quite possible that piety and modest dressing are by-products, but yes, anyone can dress modestly—to any degree—if they want to.

"I would make the point that women interpret requirements to dress modestly in many different ways, and the way they interpret it can change over their life. Within any one religious denomination, there will be a number of different interpretations and practices," Lewis says.

With relaxed tailoring and loose-fit dresses, Alexis Foreman often dresses modestly.

"Interestingly, there are a lot of non-Muslim women who are drawn to this aesthetic," Tajima says. "There seems to be an overlap of subcultures and women redefining what femininity means to them. It helps that the clothes are inherently comfortable. Japan has been exceptionally receptive to my collaboration with Uniqlo. I think a lot of women aren't necessarily aware that the clothes could be seen as 'modest fashion.' It's just a style that resonates with them.”

Is it a coincidence that the oversized silhouettes—like the super-wide trousers or statement sleeves—we're into are so prevalent on the runways and in stores right now? Fashion is often a reflection of the cultural conversation, and today there are more options than ever for dressing modestly. Lyst, the data-crunching fashion search engine, has seen an increase in related terms such as "high neck" or "long sleeve" increasing by 40% and 52%, respectively, over the past six months. Meanwhile, the brand notes that even more specific categories, such as "modest bikinis," are winning out over skimpier styles.

What's the biggest misconception about modest fashion?

Follow Sally Ashour for all the #cottagecore vibes you'll ever need.

Once you put aside the misconception that modest fashion is only tied to religious and religo-ethnic desires, many of the experts I tapped for information were quick to stress that covering up doesn't have to equate to looking boring or avoiding trends. Anum Bashir, a Dubai-based influencer who used to share her looks on a now-defunct blog called Desert Mannequin, completely debunks the myth that modest fashion "can't be on-trend or that designers don't design for the modest dresser. … I love having fun with clothes as of late: colours, prints, layers, etc. What I don't tend to do is show too much skin.” 

Maria Alia Al-sadek is known for her elevated designer wardrobe.

Does Bashir's process sound familiar to you? It's one that I share, yet I've never purposefully sought out or aimed to participate in the modest-fashion movement. The idea is far from restrictive, agrees Aysha Harun, although it did still take the L.A.-based influencer a beat to catch up with her own wardrobe desires. "I think when I first started dressing more modestly, I didn't realize that I'd be able to give current fashion trends a modest twist, so I didn't feel super confident in the clothing I put on. Over time, as I began getting more comfortable with modest fashion, I started experimenting with trends and altering them slightly to fit a more modest look. That meant layering different pieces, adding neutral basics into my wardrobe to easily give something with cut-outs and slits more coverage, etc. Now I feel like I can confidently participate in any current fashion trends and make them modest with ease.”

What are the staple items for modest dressers?

Be sure to follow Who What Wear's Yusra Siddiqui for great outfit ideas.

Idrissi's key pieces are far from the traditional super-long skirts or loose layers you might have imagined. She relies upon "a black polo top, a pair of mom jeans and a white pair of trainers." Designer Tajima has explained that "through the winter, I've been living in thrifted cashmere knits and wide-leg pants. Many years ago, my aunt gave me a beautiful black wool shawl with simple white floral embroidery. I almost always take it with me when I'm travelling. It makes anything else I'm wearing more interesting and put together."

The common thread that runs through many of the best dressed in this category is accessories. Like it is for any other fashion lover, outfit success is all in the details, from cool sunglasses to an elaborate pair of shoes. Whether you choose to seek out today's most appropriate trends or look back at iconic, demure fashion moments in time, there's no one prescription for pulling a modest wardrobe together.

Model Ikram Abdi outside the A/W 22 Dior show in Paris.

Matin has seen at Naayib that certain categories can perform best. "Our skirts are super popular—I think perhaps if you like the modest aesthetic, a long skirt is a wardrobe staple, but it’s also a chic and timeless product whatever your style preference,” she says. "We also have a knitted cape, which has been a best seller every week, come rain or shine! It’s a great outerwear piece with lots of styling versatility, which is something we strive for in all our pieces.”

Siddiqui has a few favourite items worth your consideration. "I love that vests are back, as I always gravitated towards them since they provide optimal coverage and give me an easy way to layer. I think they'll be sticking a while and become a closet staple, as they've surely become one in my wardrobe. I'm also very much here for tonal suiting, as it's an easy-to-style outfit with a more oversized silhouette that works great for me when I want to look put together.”

Being religious and fashionable: Why is that a problem for some people?

If you adore bright colours and joyful outfits, London-based Basma is the one.

It's a hotly debated topic, and like with anything in this world, there are many sides to the story. Some onlookers feel that being self-conscious about your outer image could be non-religious in itself. But there's another side to this retail sector being a prime target for sales and marketing. "There are some commentators who say they don't want Ramadan to become a fashion pressure," Lewis says. "Say if you're going to break the fast, and every time you see a different group of friends and family, do you have to have a different outfit? Do you have to be on-trend? Are some women going to be priced out of piety because participating in consumption becomes an obligation that makes it hard to be involved in community events?"

However, outside of the obvious positives in terms of empowerment, and noting that many modest dressers are feminists, Lewis explains that other important ethical conversations are often born out of the modest-fashion movement. "I've been seeing for quite a long time from fashion bloggers, designers and consumers that it's all very well to say that because of my religious convictions, [I'll wear this] … but are you buying too much? Or that it's not just how wear your hijab or how you're styling your hijab, but where did that come from or who made it? What is the environmental and social impact of your clothes? Many fashion consumers, particularly younger fashion consumers, are very motivated about [this] in general."

A defining runway moment: Halima Aden on the Max Mara runway in 2017.

The intersection of sustainability and modest fashion is one that has really developed over the past few years, as it has with most pockets of the retail industry. "Modesty as a human value is about humility and compassion as key ingredients in how we live with each other and absolutely in relation to Mother Nature and our environment. We’ve had some engagement with customers who have rightly wanted to know about the ethics and practices that operate within our supply chain, which we are proud to stand by,” says Matin. 

What's next for modest fashion?

Many of the women I spoke to all felt that the next stage for modest fashion lies in diversity: the diversity of women who are choosing to dress this way, as well as an expansion of designers, influencers and platforms that this department will seep into. Most significantly, there is a strong desire for sizing to be more inclusive. "I still think there's a long way to go—especially when for years modest women were told that designing for them wasn't suitable, but now that oversized silhouettes and longer lengthed items are 'trendy,' brands have no problem creating pieces. Also, just like the rest of the industry, I think the modest-fashion industry can definitely do a better job at size inclusivity,” explains Siddiqui. "While many brands may release modest pieces and collections, they often leave out a large portion of sizes. Vela Scarves is a hijab brand that I think does a wonderful job at casting for its campaigns. Despite the product being a scarf, the brand shows it on different skin tones, age groups and body types.” Aysha Harun agrees, noting that "sizes in modest clothing will rarely ever reach an XL, which makes it a lot harder for curvy and/or plus-size modest-dressing women to find pieces that fit their bodies.”

Yusra's modest take on Miu Miu's cult look is genuis.

Idrissi is hopeful that more major retailers will collaborate with modest designers, while Lewis predicts that we may start to see more modest fashion events that live offline and empower women in person. "While I believe it will continue to grow naturally, as it caters to a particular woman, not a culture or a religion, I also believe modest fashion shouldn't even be labelled," says Bashir. "It should seamlessly be integrated into the industry.” One would imagine—or hope—that the sustainable elements and better sizing ranges would start to weave into this approach too. 

Shop some of our favourite modest-fashion buys:

Up next—Best Wardrobe In Britain: Rosh Mahtani

This story was published at an earlier time and has since been updated.