Welcome to Runway Matters, where we're delivering notes straight from the runway so you can quickly digest the most important trends and noteworthy moments from the F/W 18 shows.
While some argue that first impressions are everything, we'll add that a designer's sophomore collection at a major fashion house is just as important. It tells us where the brand is going and how it will continue to relay its point of view. And Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy, who debuted her second ready-to-wear line for the brand in Paris yesterday, told us quite a lot about the future of fashion.
For starters, Keller—the brand's first female creative director in 65 years—packed her show with statement-making fuzzy coats but opted for a more environmentally friendly choice of faux fur. Beyond that, she laid on elements that felt refined and simultaneously rule-breaking—think tailored leather pieces, elegant maxi dresses with studs head-to-toe (and pockets!), and oversize bow details. The latter felt the most playful (and possibly nostalgic for anyone who sported oversize bows in elementary school) but was made more serious by way of a color palate consisting of just black and white and the absence of too much extra frill.
Below are the biggest takeaways from Givenchy's second ready-to-wear collection.
The Not-So-Real Deal: The Fur
While fur can be seen in spades in past Givenchy collections, this season Keller joined the likes of other brands who have opted out of creating fur pieces (including Gucci and Michael Kors) and showed big, bold toppers in faux fur. Additionally, the brand notes that it also used “ethically sourced sheepskin” in the collection as well.
The Shoe Style You’ll See Everywhere: Boots With Slack
Instead of a typical slouchy boot, the Givenchy runway featured tons of ankle boots with lots of slack in material. The fabrics wrapped around the leg loosely and folded over for a statement-making effect. In other words: Street style stars will love them.
The Childhood Trend You’ll Change Your Mind About: Bows
Anyone who watched last night’s Oscars knows that big look-at-me-bows are the stuff of red carpet magic (ask Nicole Kidman or Saoirse Ronan). And come fall, Givenchy’s take is all grown-up and has a bit of a dark side as bows decorate deep-plunging jumpsuits and pair with leather pants instead of something, well, sweeter.
The Style Sacrifice To Make: Free Hands
Crossbody, belt bags, and the tiniest of micro bags have been some of the hardest-to-avoid trends in recent seasons. But prepare to give up just a bit more arm space when it comes to the newest Givenchy It styles, including a quilted tote worn folded in half called “Jaw,” according to the brand’s press release.