The look of a runway model has evolved since the birth of the catwalk in the early 1900s, but we might be witnessing more of a change in the past year than ever before.
Russian modeling agency Lumpen (the name itself signifies social outcast) is one of the disruptors leading this revolution. By casting models that stray from the typical clean-cut, unpierced, perfectly symmetrical faces that most agencies seek out, runway lineups at Balenciaga, Vetements, and Kenzo are looking more diverse than in seasons past.
Founder and Moscow-born It girl Avdotja Alexandrova recently talked to Vogue about her intentions behind the brand, noting, “I think that everyone is tired of one ideal type. People want to see individuality.”
Seeing as Lumpen has yet to celebrate its second anniversary, this is definitely an agency to watch.
Take a look at a few of the agency’s key players below.
WHO: Lumpen founder Avdotja Alexandrova and model Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov
WHAT: Gosha Rubchinskiy and Comme des Garçons runway shows