For years now, Bravo has been sending 20- and 30-somethings to the Hamptons for the summer and recording their antics to make Summer House, one of my favorite non–Real Housewives Bravo shows. As the seasons went on, I started to notice the lack of Blackness on the show. It was mostly white people running around the Hamptons, drinking too much rosé, and getting into love triangles—typical reality TV show stuff. But on the show's fifth season, that changed. Enter Ciara Miller—who is described by her friend and fellow castmate Paige DeSorbo as "a combination of Naomi Campbell and Mother Teresa"—the show's first Black female cast member. Miller is strikingly beautiful, and the second she opens her mouth and lets out her sweet Southern accent and shares her background as a nurse, you realize how accurate DeSorbo's description actually was. 

As Miller's time on Summer House continued, she quickly grew a community of Black and Brown girls on social media who look to her for all things fashion and beauty, especially beauty. With just one peek at her Instagram, you can see her jetting off to Miami for the Grand Prix, shooting campaigns with Victoria's Secret, and sharing plenty of videos of her in hair and makeup for appearances, red carpets, and press events. This all makes her page a go-to spot for Black and Brown women looking for hair and makeup ideas to try themselves. I figured Miller was the best person to tap for a Black History Month deep dive on experimenting with makeup as a Black woman, brand inclusivity, her ins and outs for 2024, and, of course, which products she swears by.

Keep scrolling to read our conversation.

What are your beauty ins and outs for 2024? 

This year, I'm really into glowing skin, so highlighters, highlighters, highlighters. I'm also loving faux freckles, but I have to say lots of blush or that "doll blush" trend is out for me—that and bad extensions.

What beauty must-haves are always in your purse? 

I'm always carrying good, easy lippies, like this Makeup by Mario MoistureGlow Plumping Lip Serum. My go-to shade is Honey Glow. I always have these in pretty much all of my purses. Those plus a lip liner. I also love to keep a travel-sized rollerball perfume on me. I hate fragrances that don't last all day, so just in case, I always have perfume with me, and then I typically have Clean On Me hand cream. It's a very specific little mini lotion that smells so good, and it fits in all my purses. Of course, I always have snack.

What beauty advice would you give other Black women looking to experiment more with makeup? 

Experiment with color! Don't be afraid to try everything and anything, and take risks to see what really works for you. Unfortunately, the makeup industry was not always created with us—Black women—in mind, which can make the experience of playing with makeup and finding your holy-grail products that much harder. But there are so many great brands now, like Pat McGrath and Fenty Beauty to name a few, that are coming out with products made specifically with women of color/Black women in mind. [These are] brands that cherish and appreciate Black women and their contribution to the beauty industry and want to show that appreciation by making products that we can use and love. [Try] everything, [try] new beauty trends, and [spread] the word. Once you find a really good beauty product, start telling your other beauty-loving BIPOC friends. I feel like I always get my greatest recommendations on makeup from other Black girls.

As Black women, we have a unique relationship when it comes to hair. How would you describe your relationship with your hair? 

Oh my god, chaotic. I feel like my relationship with my hair is so chaotic. One minute, I want my extensions. One minute, I want them out of my head and never want to look at them again. Some days, I want to be natural and wear my curls. Other days, I want to be channeling Naomi with long, bone-straight hair with the middle part. No one can say anything to me about it, by the way. It's a chaotic relationship like it is for many other Black women. But the older that I'm getting, the more comfortable I'm becoming with my hair.

Especially being in TV, it's like I'm fighting society's beauty standards of what hair is acceptable for a Black woman on camera while trying to embrace my own hair journey all at once. I'm trying to teach myself that, no matter how I style my hair, I'm still beautiful and worthy and deserving. Afro, braids, extensions, natural hair—it shouldn't matter. I'm trying to take some of the pressure off myself. Honestly, I hate that Black women's hair is always such a point of discussion. I should just be able to be myself, wear my hair however I would like, and show up to set or to film and do my job like anyone else.

What other Black women do you look at when it comes to beauty and style inspiration? 

I'm definitely a big fan of Lori Harvey. Everything she does when it comes to beauty and fashion I just love. Of course, there's Jasmine Tookes, Jourdan Dunn, and the other Black and Brown Victoria's Secret Angels, [who] are always beauty goals. Honestly, Tracee Ellis Ross is always on my mood board. She's always experimenting with her hair and trying new things. I also love Quinta [Brunson] and the hair looks she has been going with lately. Since we just had award season, I have also been seeing a lot of Zuri Hall, and she always has amazing hair and style choices.

Walk us through your typical everyday makeup look.

My everyday makeup routine is pretty quick and easy. I will mix my foundation with my moisturizer to make my own BB/CC cream to give me that light, glowy veil type of finish that I want. I'm big on very bright under-eyes, so after that, I go in with my concealer and top the face portion of my makeup off with a very light blush just to give myself some color. Next would be the mascara and my most important step, my eyebrows. Sometimes, I forget to mention eyebrows when discussing makeup because, to me, doing my eyebrows doesn't count as makeup. It's a nonnegotiable necessity. Even if I'm running out to go get my packages, I have a brow on, but yeah, definitely filling in my brows, and maybe I'll dab highlighter on with my fingers.

With doing TV, red carpets, press days, and photo shoots and being in a hair and makeup chairs constantly, it can be hard on your skin and hair. What skincare and haircare products do you use when your skin needs a little TLC? 

I always make it a point to go to my dermatologist. I go to Paul Frank, MD, on the Upper East Side and in the West Village, and I will do a facial with him. I am a person who struggled with acne my entire life, and hyperpigmentation has also been something that I've struggled with. I do pico laser for my hyperpigmentation, but at home, [it's] always a tranexamic acid I also love a mask. The Clarins cryo cool mask is really good to just refresh your skin and make your pores look smaller. Let's be real—no one likes large pores. I'm also a big fan of FaceGym. I definitely try and swing by there before events. For my hair, I go to Sally Hershberger NoMad, and my girl will give me a steam treatment.

Shop Miller's Holy-Grail Beauty Items

Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara

"Even when I don't want to spend $30 on it and I want to reach for the $7 tube, I'm gonna spend the $30 because this mascara is worth it. It's that good. I used to think $30 for mascara is crazy. Now, I do it religiously. "

Rare Beauty Liquid Touch Weightless Foundation

"I love this product so much, especially in the summer. It's basically like skin, and I can wear very little product and get that even, glowy look. It's so lightweight and wearable. I also am super impressed by the shade range this product has. I wear shade 460W."

Huda Beauty #FauxFilter Matte Buildable Coverage Waterproof Concealer

"I'm telling you. As a girl who loves bright under-eyes, you need this product. Think bright, bright, bright. I want to walk into a room and have people ask, 'Did a light just come on?' But nope, it's just my concealer."

Benefit Cosmetics Goof Proof Waterproof Easy Shape & Fill Eyebrow Pencil

"Talk about a brow that doesnt move. You guys know I take my eyebrow game seriously."

One/Size On 'Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray

"The Patrick Starrr One/Size Setting Spray, it's … on all night until dawn. Now, I used this product before Beyoncé came out and said that she was using it on her Renaissance Tour, and after that, you couldn't get this product for months. I was pissed. … I usually keep an extra bottle on hand, but I was running low, and then Beyoncé announced that she used it once on her tour, and it sells out. What are the odds?"

Tarte Freckle Pen

"As I mentioned, I'm loving faux freckles for 2024. This product makes getting the look that much easier."

During what I would call my rookie season—my first season as an editor—of New York Fashion Week back in the fall, I attended the Black in Fashion Council showroom preview held in Downtown Manhattan at Spring Studios. I was obviously bursting with excitement to just be attending fashion week in the first place, but to get to go to this preview in particular meant a lot to me. As a young Black girl, I was always hungry for all things glamour and fashion and spent my time dreaming about what it would be like to become an editor, so walking into a fashion-week preview that was so unapologetically Black did more for me than I had imagined it would. What really stood out to me was my conversation with designer Kwame Adusei. Both of us have African roots (he is from Ghana, and I am a first-generation American with a father from Malawi), so we immediately bonded over our love for fashion and African culture. While Kwame walked me through his collection, he told me, "The truth is we can wear anything and be fly because we are Black. It’s just in us.” His comment made me start to think about how Blackness translates to style and swag.

When I think of the Black fashion editors, publicists, and influencers who I follow and work with and who inspire me, they all have it. It’s not something that you can exactly put your finger on, and it’s not something that is a one-size-fits-all type of energy. It’s a certain je ne sais quoi in style, confidence, strength, and beauty that radiates from them, and it’s how they have figured out how to have such strong personal style. Before Black History Month comes to an end, I had to tap some of my favorite Black fashion experts to learn about the brands hanging in their highly curated closets. 

Their answers not only put me on to new designers that I cannot wait to try for myself, but they also highlighted so many fashion designers that you, after reading this, will be obsessed with, too, if you aren’t already.

Keep scrolling to read my conversations with some of the most stylish Black fashion people, learn about my own favorites, and even shop the brands we can’t get enough of.

LaQuan Smith 

LaQuan Smith is not a designer for those who are afraid to stand out or command the attention of a room. Born in Queens, Smith truly understands the essence of the New York City It girl, and his clothes are a direct reflection of that. When I think of LaQuan Smith, I think of cool silhouettes, sexy cutouts, body-hugging fabrics, and statement pieces that will have everyone asking, "Where did you get that?” This brand is a celeb favorite that has been seen on the likes of Julia Fox, Lori Harvey, and Beyoncé to name a few. In my dream closet, I imagine tons of LaQuan Smith pieces to wear to every cool fashion party and restaurant opening in New York. A LaQuan Smith item is the type of piece that you tuck away in your closet in a garment bag until a very special occasion. There’s virtually no way to not feel badass in LaQuan Smith.

Kwame Adusei 

I had the pleasure of meeting Adusei during the Black in Fashion Council showroom presentation in the fall of 2022 during New York Fashion Week, and listening to him go through his collection and the inspiration behind it gave me chills. Adusei is from Ghana, and it’s very clear he designs for the African fashion girl. As Adusei himself will tell you, he creates clothes with curves in mind. Adusei’s designs sit at the perfect intersection of pretty and cool. With so many cool dresses, tops, pants, and jackets, there’s no way this brand doesn’t make my favorites list. It’s also a favorite of Kylie Jenner and Harvey, both of whom have been seen wearing multiple Kwame Adusei looks.

Cult Gaia 

I know this brand has been mentioned by so many influencers and editors, but let me join in singing the praises of Cult Gaia. I first tried out the brand when I was shopping for a trip to Miami, and after my first Cult Gaia dress, I was immediately hooked. I’m always impressed when it comes to the designs and colors, and the brand makes some of the sickest accessories around. The accessories have an architectural feel to them that I am always attracted to. Its resortwear always has my heart, but every time a new collection makes its debut, I am drooling over each item. I’m already eyeing so many new pieces for the upcoming spring/summer.

Simkhai

"One of my go-to brands of the moment is Simkhai (recently rebranded from Jonathan Simkhai). For the past year, I’ve pretty much lived in Simkhai. From their sexy yet comfortable knit pieces to sparkling sequin sets, which are surprisingly versatile, my closet is filled with an array of items from recent Simkhai collections. I’ve been known to wear the popular Simkhai sequin fringe skirt on several occasions but styled in different ways: first casually with a turtleneck and tall boots and then for a night on the town with the full sequin set’s matching sequin crop top. Versatile sequins are all my wardrobe needs! Simkhai also has beautiful formalwear perfect for those special-occasion events. I love his silk and embellished maxis and one of his signatures—the intricate crochet pieces, from tiny tops to full dresses. You really can’t go wrong with any Simkhai pieces. There’s truly something for every day and every occasion.”

Simon Miller 

"I bought my first Simon Miller bell-sleeve ribbed maxi dress in 2020 at T.A. New York (a fabulous Black-owned boutique) when I was totally unfamiliar with the brand. But once I tried the dress on, I was obsessed. The ribbed pieces are some of the most comfortable yet fashion-forward designs. So simple but so chic. When you want to have fun with fashion, Simon Miller is the way to go. Creative Director Chelsea Hansford’s retro Cali cool-girl style is all about bold prints, bright patterns, dayglow sequins and layered mesh, funky yet flattering silhouettes, and statement accessories—from their metallic boots and chunky clogs to their mirrorball earrings and eclectic handbags. I always feel chic, comfortable, and happy in Simon Miller, which is really all you can ask for when it comes to fashion.”

Brandon Blackwood

"Brandon Blackwood’s bags are next-level. If you’re bored of the luxury brands and It bags that everyone is already wearing, you need to take a look at Blackwood’s latest collection. I have two bags from the brand, and every time I wear them, people are asking me where I got them from. They’re unique and so fun. While the brand is known for its accessories, you have to check out the clothes too.”

Andrea Iyamah

"Any time I get a chance to talk about Andrea Iyamah, I take it. She designs ‘wow’ pieces that capture everyone’s attention and are designed for your next vacation. This is another brand that’s anything but boring—3D designs, bright colors, and cutouts are what she’s known for. Iyamah is Nigerian and does some of her work in Lagos. The culture’s fun spirit shines through in the clothing.”

Diotima

"This brand was recently in the Black in Fashion Council showroom during NYFW, and I can’t stop thinking about the crystal embellishments. I need a cocktail and vacation stat, and I need to wear this dress!!”

Tier 

"From drop-off to dinner with my girls, this trench is my go-to. The print is really fun, and you can dress it up with heels or pair it with sneakers.”

Fumi the Label

"This was my birthday dress this year. I sadly didn’t take any pictures of myself in it. I loved the color and that you can button it up or down for a sexier look.”

Norma Kamali

"I think every woman should own this dress.”

Brandon Maxwell

"Brandon is my friend, [my] client, and [an] incredible designer. I wore a smilar dress to this one when he hosted the Oscar carpet last year, and I’ve never looked or felt better.”

Christopher John Rogers

"I’m never one to shy away from some color, and no one does it quite like Christopher John Rogers. The Louisiana-born designer has become the fashion industry’s darling over the past few years because of his innate ability to fuse impeccable tailoring and bold hues together in a way that’s undeniably joyful.”

Sergio Hudson

"If you want to up your suiting game, then you need to invest in a set from Sergio Hudson. The South Carolina–born designer has become the must-shop place for icons like Michelle Obama and Amal Clooney.”

Nalebe

"One of my favorite up-and-coming luxury footwear brands is Nalebe. Not only is the designer (Amina Means) incredibly kind, but the shoes are also so fun.”

Diotima

"Diotima may have been founded in 2020, but it’s already managed to garner a following that’s obsessed with the brand, myself included. The designer, Rachel Scott, uses crochet, mesh, and linen to channel her Jamaican heritage, pairing them with tailoring and classic silhouettes to make them feel modern.”

Vavvoune

"Now, there are so many noteworthy Black-owned bag brands, but as of late, I can’t leave my house without seeing a Vavvoune bag. The brand’s uniquely shaped leather silhouettes are easy to spot and well-made and can’t seem to escape my mind.”

Char

"I just bought their Woven Wax miniskirt, and I’m so excited to wear it out. I rarely find micro skirts in my size with the same shape as the straight-size design, so I am really loving this brand already.”

Öfuurë

"Öfuurë is my go-to brand when I want a statement dress, which honestly is all the time! Being from Miami where it’s sunny and 75° all year round, I’m so used to just wearing dresses style-wise. Öfuurë always does it for me, especially with their vibrant prints and infinity dresses. One dress can be styled in so many ways, which really helps me feel like I’m not wearing the same dress over and over again.”

Hanifa

"I am a Hanifa girl through and through. I love the way Anifa’s clothes make me feel, and I’ve probably worn this blue dress more times than I can count. Whenever I wear it out, I get so many compliments.”

Homage Year

"Accessory-wise, I love Homage Year. Not only is the founder Antoine an incredible human being, but his vision for Homage Year is so fun to watch. This bag is also a piece in my closet that whenever I wear it out I get stopped and asked where it’s from. It’s chic and the perfect size to fit all the miscellaneous things I need to carry with me day to day.”

Wray

"Wray is another brand I love wearing because they’re so focused on actually making fashion inclusive. They carry an XXS to a 6XL, which is rarely seen, and they continue to prove that you can create clothes for all body types.”

Edas

"I’m a big accessory girl, so it’s important for me to find really fun and eclectic pieces that feel super one-of-a-kind. Edas has everything from crotched hats to leather bags to statement earrings. I’m quite tempted to stop by the brand’s studio here in NYC for a shopping appointment because, at this point, I want one of everything.”

Hanifa

"This brand has been a favorite of mine for years now, but lately, I’ve been seeing my favorite influencers sporting Hanifa, and my wish list is growing. Not only are the colors rich and eye-catching, but the silhouettes are also unique and interesting. I love how size inclusive Hanifa is too. Every season, I catch myself scrolling the new-arrivals page for the latest additions to my wardrobe.”

Telfar 

"What first pushed me into buying a Telfar bag was seeing it on Issa Rae from Insecure. The costume designer, Shiona Turini, always did an amazing job with incorporating Black-owned brands into the characters’ wardrobes. I really love Telfar’s mission of being affordable and still supplying luxury staples to the community.”

Honor the Gift

"Another one of my favorites is Honor the Gift, owned by NBA athlete Russell Westbrook. I love the duality of the garments, and I often lean toward the men’s items, but I think the women’s leather trench coat has my heart. Russell has also been known for his NBA tunnel-walk outfits, but having a clothing collection is a whole new ballpark! It has been exciting watching the team elevate the collections each season.”

Homage Year

"Lastly, I’ve been enamored by the handbag brand Homage Year, designed by Antoine Manning. Everyone who knows me has seen me sporting my pink Valentine’s Day edition Homage bag, and trust me—I get compliments every time. The creativity that goes into each colorway has me hooked every drop.”

Yam

"I love everything about Yam. Beautiful pieces like these super-cute earrings are made right here in NYC using deadstock materials. It’s the type of business you feel really good rooting for.”

Oma the Label

"I’m in the midst of building my optimal everyday necklace stack. I love this piece and many others from Oma the Label. Not only are the pieces top-notch, but it’s also Nigerian owned. As a Nigerian woman myself, it feels great getting to support Oma.”

Wray

"As far as inclusive sizing goes, Wray really walks the walk. Every single drop has a very wide range of sizes, making it the ultimate place to shop for cool, artsy, fashion-forward items. This green leather jacket from the brand’s latest drop is giving. I just want everything.”

Next up, An Homage to the Style Influence of Black TV and Movie Icons

As easy as it is to write off fashion as either frivolous or strictly utilitarian, clothing is and always has been more complicated than it appears. No matter the style, material, or silhouette, intentionality and deeper meaning will forever exist behind the guise of the garments we wear. Too often in America, however, the narratives surrounding the significance of certain styles derive only from a single lens—particularly, a white lens—thus leaving integral aspects of their lineage redacted or even erased in fashion’s history books and culture as a whole. This erasure is but a microcosm of the larger issue of racism that’s inherent in our society.

Such has been the case with Ivy style, an aesthetic that despite outfitting many of the most prominent Black figures in the Civil Rights Movement (within music, entertainment, education, and more in midcentury America) continues to this day to be thought of as a look primarily worn by the well-to-do white communities that settled in New England. This stems in large part from its origins, which, as the name alludes to, are Ivy League universities. As these institutions were still made up of mostly white students at the time, they became the demographic most often tied to Ivy style, which, in short, combined the effortless class of an Oxford button-down, loafers, and khaki pants (from brands still in operation today like Brooks Brothers and J.Press) with the sportswear associated with collegiate athletics. But it took more than simply wearing Ivy-style pieces to master the look—true Ivyists understood that styling was at the center of the trend.

In Take Ivy, an Ivy style bible of sorts originally released in Japan in 1965, photos taken by Teruyoshi Hayashida on eight different Ivy League campuses display men sporting this hybrid look with the type of ease only someone who’s utterly carefree and unbothered can exude. In many ways, this style of dressing was a true marker of privilege. Students didn’t need to dress up too formally or put too much care into how they looked as long as it remained within their university’s unofficial dress code. Their campuses were a bubble, where the pressures of post-collegiate life didn’t yet exist and socks didn’t need to be worn with loafers. "The university authority does not seem to be impressed with this [laissez-faire way of dressing], but it appeared to us that Ivy Leaguers feel no need to dress up for classes as long as they don’t look too scruffy,” the authors of Take Ivy, who traveled to these campuses from Japan to document Ivy style in its natural environment, explain in the book. There was an uncouthness about it all, yet students were still considered respectable and sophisticated, which came with attending an Ivy League school.

The authors of Take Ivy go on to explain that the aesthetic extended far past college campuses, as graduates from Ivy League universities went on to start careers in New York City and Boston. Though its roots grow on those eight college campuses in New England, Ivy was the product of East Coast living, in general. "In order to entirely understand the spirit of ‘Ivy,’ you must appreciate and master all aspects of American East Coast culture,” the book reads. "One may wonder if there is an unwritten dress code among Ivy Leaguers, businessmen, and executives since they are invariably dressed in the Ivy style.” Though the style matured, going from casual to more formal as students graduated and went on to begin their post-collegiate lives, it all remained Ivy-esque. With this in mind, one thing becomes clear: Ivy was the dress style of America’s elite, from the classroom to the boardroom.

What’s often left out from the Ivy narrative is that students who attended Black Ivy League colleges like Morehouse, Howard, and Spelman, a women’s college, followed similar style codes, though they had a tendency to change and enhance the traditional Ivy look, making it their own by taking inspiration from influential Black jazz musicians like John Coltrane, Miles Davis, and Sonny Rollins. Like with traditional Ivy, Black Ivy became the preferred dress code of those who had either graduated from their Black Ivy League universities and moved on to careers in areas like politics, law, and education or simply adopted the style due to its growing popularity in mainstream culture.

"When the Civil Rights Movement began, its leaders, whether intentionally or unintentionally, chose Ivy as their uniform in order to communicate that Black people are equal and deserving of respect and to juxtapose the horrible treatment they were receiving under Jim Crow laws,” says Taniqua Russ, the host of the podcast Black Fashion History. "Being dressed in what was reserved for the upper echelon and educated of white society drew attention, and, in a sense, helped civil rights leaders be heard because they didn't look like what society expected Black people to look like.” This strategy is often referred to as respectability politics, or the act of minimizing perceived differences between the minority and the majority by adopting the principles set by the majority. Civil rights activists such as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., James Forman, and Ralph Abernathy were consistently seen in dark-colored suits, straight ties, pressed trench coats, and cuff links, thus adhering to the dress codes that white leaders in government (oftentimes graduates of Ivy League institutions) had set. "While it played on respectability politics and oppression still continued, I think [this] was necessary to reach the audiences that people like Dr. King, John Lewis, and Reverend Abernathy were able to reach,” says Russ of dressing in Ivy. "Dr. King had the ear of many U.S. presidents, and I think that is in part due to how the movement was presented, with Ivy style being a part of that.”

In Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style, author Jason Jules curates visual examples of Black Ivy at marches, boycotts, and sit-ins throughout the Civil Rights Movement, in which you can clearly see the prevalence of the post-collegiate Ivy look. "Instead of fighting violence with violence and prejudice with hate, [civil rights activists] used the subversive force of style as their weapon of choice,” he writes, reiterating, in a way, Russ’s above point. "That style created an epic cognitive dissonance among those who preferred to see African Americans as inferior and exhibit fear or rage in the face of abuse.”

Though their attempts to dress in a manner that showcased the equality they rightfully deserved weren’t always met with the respect their pinned-up style called for, Black Ivyists persisted, continuing to dress in Ivy and tailor it to fit the movement’s needs. One example of this arrived when students and activists from northern states began traveling south to assist the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC) and the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE) in an effort to increase voter registration in rural areas. There, Jules explains in Black Ivy, students had to adjust their Ivy uniforms to fit their new surroundings. Sharecroppers in the south didn’t wear flannel suits; instead, they outfitted themselves in gear fashioned for utility—from overalls and jeans to work boots and chambray shirts. In turn, these activists did too. "By wearing these clothes, they were saying yes, even farm workers in the remotest rural south have just as much right to vote, fair wages, and a decent education as anyone else in the United States,” Jules writes. As such, workwear became an integral part of Black Ivy and, because of that, Ivy as a whole.

But dressing to fit the mold didn’t sit well with everyone. While Black Ivyists suited up in tweed and flannel to peacefully fight for their rights, members of the ever-growing and often misunderstood Black Panther Party chose another uniform designed to "present an image,” says Russ. But instead of the power, respect, and equality that Black Ivyists were dressing for, Russ says that members of the Black Panther Party "wanted to present an image of power, resistance, and a celebration of Black aesthetics and culture.” According to her, both groups used fashion to visually represent their power in different ways.

Eventually, though, following the assassination of Dr. King on April 4, 1968, some activists came to realize that respectability politics—and with it, dressing in Ivy—wasn’t working out in the way that they’d hoped it would. "Dashikis and berets would replace button-downs and trilbies as the clothing of rebellion,” Jules writes in Black Ivy, referring to the pieces associated with the Black Panther Party. According to Russ, the uniform of the organization "was a way to give a proverbial middle finger to white America and the policing of Black bodies,” she says. "They stood strong in not conforming to societal standards or bowing to respectability politics, and this showed through their all-black clothing, Afros, and African-inspired dress.” As time went on, this mode of dress became the look most associated with the movement, and thus, as Jules noted in the book, replaced the Ivy style that had once defined it.

Of course, Ivy style, and therefore Black Ivy, never really went away. In the decades since, the sartorial pendulum has swung countless times in favor of Ivy, a look that, today, is one of fashion’s most ubiquitous, specifically in menswear. Modern and heritage brands such as Drake’s, Ralph Lauren, Aimé Leon Dore, Rowing Blazers, Gant, Lacoste, Hackett, and G.H. Bass have all experienced highs in recent years. And while the role the Black community played in shaping Ivy remains a quieter part of the conversation surrounding the overall preppy trend, its influence can be easily spotted when you look at the way these brands are designing Ivy fashion today. In turn, the discussion around it grows louder by the day.

In 2022, Ralph Lauren collaborated with Black Ivy League universities, including Morehouse and Spelman, leading to the over 50-year-old brand’s first-ever all-Black campaign. Later that year, Drake’s released a capsule collection inspired by Black Ivy in collaboration with Jason Jules, who acted as the model for the associated campaign. It’s through these examples and more that people, specifically the fashion industry, are beginning to acknowledge and appreciate the role that the Black community played in shaping the Ivy preppy look that, as Take Ivy notes, was the "unwritten dress code” and the "one and only orthodox school of fashion” during the mid-twentieth century. Look around—in many ways, it still is.

This post was published at an earlier date and has since been updated.

Coming up: Fashion Is Dissent—How Style Played a Role in Equality Movements

I'll always be a strong believer in the idea of looking to the past to better recognize its impact on our present (and, ultimately, our future). A prime example of this is taking the time to highlight the beauty of the past that graced our silver screens. This research provides inspiration for today's looks and encourages appreciation for the women who wore iconic looks. Unfortunately, many of the Black women who were at the helm of Hollywood during its golden years were not recognized for their contributions due to the rampant racism and discrimination in the film industry.

As a melanin-blessed beauty editor, one of my biggest goals is to shed light on the individuals who deserve recognition for their role in redefining and challenging beauty trends. Keep reading to meet the three brilliant Black women who come to mind when I think of the beauty of Black Hollywood and the modern-day products you can use to re-create their looks.

Dorothy Dandridge

Many leading ladies of Old Hollywood were known for their extensive beauty routines and iconic recognizable features. While there are many features that actress Dorothy Dandridge was known for, her eyebrows might be at the top of the list. Her bold and angular brows are considerably thin compared to modern-day beauty trends. Capture Dandrige's look by using a clear brow sculpting wax to give you that laminated, finished look. Remember: The brows shouldn't budge.

The height of Dandridge's short yet influential career occurred just years before film made its dramatic shift from black and white to color. Most of the images available of the actress are in black and white, but the few that exist of her in color show a clear appreciation for berry-toned blushes applied to the apples of the cheeks and swept just over the temples. Re-create this look by opting for a buildable cream blush that melts into the skin. My picks? Huda Beauty's Cheeky Tint Cream Blush and Westman Atelier's Baby Cheeks Lip + Cheek Cream Blush Stick.

Hollywood in the 1940s and 1950s witnessed a major renaissance in beauty trends, and Black actresses like Dandridge were at its helm. Although very rarely credited for their contributions to the beauty trends that defined the era, many of their unique takes can be spotted in images like the one above. Here, the actress sports natural-looking winged eyeliner that follows the natural shape of her eyes. Get the look by using a gel or pencil eyeliner that you can easily guide along the eyes for a classic sharp wing.

This iconic image of Dandridge captured from her 1957 film Island in the Sun is one of the most well-known pictures of the actress. If her wearing this yellow organza dress can't convince you of her unparalleled influence on the styles of golden-era Hollywood, then take another look at her makeup. Dandridge sports a classy orange lip with a hint of gloss at its center that catches what could be the film studio's lights. Modernize this look by reaching for a matte, lightweight lipstick and adding a layer of tinted lip oil in a red-orange tint.

Lena Horne

Next up is the beautiful and talented Lena Horne. Pictured here in a promotional shoot for a movie in the mid-1940s, the jazz singer and actress appears to have a glowing and flawless visage. To achieve a similar look, use a foundation that provides lightweight and buildable coverage like Makeup by Mario's SurrealSkin Liquid Foundation and Armani Beauty's Luminous Silk Perfect Glow Flawless Oil-Free Foundation.

Here, Horne stands proudly in front of a poster for a show in New York City in the 1960s. Not only am I obsessed with her super-chic turban and trench, but I also love how visible her long eyelashes are in this shot. If you're looking to lengthen your lashes, choose mascara that's loaded with pigment while offering the length and volume you desire (without any of the smudging, clumping, and flaking).

Here's a fluffy, bold brow moment from the beautiful singer and actress in the 1940s. Unlike the popular angular brow style of the time, Horne often opted for a softer, feathered shape. The end result? A sweet and romantic finish to any sophisticated makeup look. The slight angle at the bridge of the eye shadow keeps her face looking lifted. To pull off Horne's feathered brow look, guide your hairs softly upwards with a brow pencil and then set them with a gel to make them last all day.

One of the first things I always notice about Horne in films is how sculpted her face looks no matter what angle she's shot from (which, for women with darker skin tones, was difficult to achieve on black-and-white film). To get her sky-high cheekbones and lifted brows, go for a cream or a liquid bronzer for dimension. I love Refy's Cream Bronzer and Iconic London's Sheer Bronze Liquid Bronzer to re-create this look.

Eartha Kitt

The last leading lady we're highlighting in this roundup is the magnetic Eartha Kitt. Whether you were first introduced to her as the first woman of color to play Catwoman or through her hit holiday hit single "Santa Baby," Kitt has claimed a permanent place in the minds of film and music lovers alike. Here she is as Catwoman with the fabulously smoky eye shadow that defined so many makeup looks of the mid-to-late 1960s. Embrace your inner superhero by applying eye shadow in shimmering shades of silver, green, and blue.

Leave it to the Catwoman herself to sport a perfect cat eye. When she wasn't showing off her perfectly pink lips, Kitt could often be seen in a dramatic cat eye that defied the beauty trends of the era. Use a long-wearing liquid eyeliner pen to re-create this look for yourself, starting at the corner of the eye and extending outwards. The longer the better, right?

Are you looking for another example of a Black woman who won't let being captured in shades of black and white dull her shine? Look no further than this photo of Kitt. A strapless (possibly velvet) black dress makes her skin absolutely glow. Incorporate the same glow into your makeup routine by adding a dewy highlighter or balm to the cheekbones or other points on the face that need a little light.

I had to throw in one last shot of Kitt's gorgeous cheekbones for luck. Look how eye-catching they are in this shot with her beloved cats. Hers were all-natural, but if you want to pull off a similar look, use cream-based contour like these ones from Milk Makeup and Makeup by Mario.

Next up, White Nail Polish Is Always a Vibe—Here Are the 20 Best in Existence

Self-proclaimed "salon baby" Diarrha N'diaye-Mbaye started her beauty brand on the principle that you can show up every day as yourself. Her brand, Ami Colé, is about wearing the best version of your skin, and there's not much more powerful than that. 

A first-generation Senegalese American, N'diaye-Mbaye grew up in Harlem spending her younger days admiring her mother and aunt's commitment to aesthetics and self-care. This deep, familial understanding of the importance of feeling empowered by your beauty and the processes you use to enhance that for yourself led her to start a breakthrough brand in the uncertainty of COVID-19. Not to mention she's an industry veteran and well-researched "product girl" who was already creating a hybrid of healthy skincare and natural makeup for her own routine. 

With so many limitations on non-toxic beauty for melanin-rich skin, and an expansive, underserved audience, N’diaye-Mbaye created a thoughtful, clean, and accessible product line that has beauty insiders swooning. For N'diaye-Mbaye, and so many of us, beauty is truly an emotional and cultural experience. It is personalized by your upbringing, influenced by culture, and designed by you to express the truest version of yourself on a daily basis. 

N'diaye-Mbaye and I sat down to discuss founding the brand, the significance of her culture and upbringing on her beauty philosophy, and issues plaguing the beauty industry.

First, I wanted to get the backstory of you starting Ami Colé. What led you to that and what was your philosophy for starting the brand?

I think that, like many founders, it was pretty selfish. I was looking for solutions for my skin tone and makeup style. I've always considered myself a "product" girl; I could talk about products all day. But, before the birth of Fenty and formerly Pat McGrath, it was hard to find products for everyday girls like myself that need a straightforward approach to show up in the world. I found myself literally for a decade running the gamut, testing new products, going into the stores, using concealer, and mixing it with oil to enhance my skin. I think that coupled with the frustration about the movement in the cream beauty space compelled me to start the brand.

We've seen more strides in inclusivity in the makeup space, but were there any other movements that inspired you to find the brand?

I knew from my natural hair journey that there were still many more aspects of my beauty routine that I could "clean up" or try my best to be as efficacious and non-toxic as possible. Historically, the products catered to women of color are typically toxic. We've even seen recent lawsuits and health issues reported from them, so I was trying to be a part of changing that conversation. 

Besides providing an inclusive shade range and addressing toxins in makeup, why was it important for you to break into the beauty space?

I'm a first-generation Senegalese American and I grew up in the heart of Harlem, so the pan-African culture surrounded me. I found it so beautiful to connect and weave different versions of Blackness that we don't typically see in mainstream pop-culture media. And through my brand, I wanted to share the beauty of the African diaspora through makeup.

Do you think that beauty trends or aesthetics offset progress in the industry?

It's a very nuanced and layered conversation because it's hard to think about what I enjoyed and ingested culture-wise growing up. Whether it's MTV, the J.Crew catalog in the age of Jenna Lyons, or the Delia's catalog, you saw these jovial, carefree girls with their wispies, and all these things. Not to mention how huge the French-girl beauty aesthetic became, where the focus was on having clean skin and not trying too hard, and we never really had permission to do that. It’s an aesthetic that I wanted, but wasn’t what I saw around me. I saw my aunties, and mom wearing the classic red lip and the classic red nail polish and pressing their hair every Sunday. And seeing how important aesthetics was a part of her routine, I did not see that replicated outside of my home. I feel like we, especially Black culture, when it comes to clean girl aesthetics, we're the microcurrent and the underbelly of what moves that and what's inspired that. Unfortunately, those small microtrends bubble up to the top, and suddenly, everyone just sees the surface level. No one has any idea what's going on at the root of it or where it comes when it gets to that stage it's very hard to trace it back because some people don't want to hear it. 

I remember working at a huge conglomerate, and we were selling haircare products. At the time, we were creating tutorials on how to get box braids, and the marketing collateral was "how to get Kim Kardashian–inspired braids.” I remember the uproar that happened in the comments, and it's ironic that I was working for this brand, on that team, obviously, being a part of the problem. But on the flip side, having experiences as a woman of color, who grew up as a salon baby in a hair braiding shop understanding the problem. I was watching my team fight tooth and nail, like, "No, Kim Kardashian made this popular," even though it was rooted in Black haircare routines. So part of me feels like the conversation sometimes is so counterproductive because some people just don't want to see it, especially when said influencer doesn't attribute it to the source. Then the other part of me is like, "Hey, maybe it's our job to scream from the rooftops and showcase the true DNA and fabric of it." I think everyone shares this frustration, it’s a constant state of tug-of-war, every few days when there is a "new” trend. 

How do you as a brand adjust to trends, fight trends, or just stay true to your own identity?

You'd never see those semantics on our feed or in our copy. We don't even acknowledge it to be frank, because, number one, it's not true to our core. It's distracting, once again; I think Ami Colé is kind of like that walking down a street head nod when you see someone that looks like you or someone that feels familiar. We want to be that brand that is the older sister or the girl at brunch that's giving you new tips and tricks on how to achieve the optimal goals that you're looking for.

What would you say your personal beauty motto is?

It's so emotional thinking about it because I genuinely want to be happy with what I see when I look in the mirror. Historically, makeup has been like an armor you must wear and present yourself. If you're feeling bad, you say to yourself, let me wear this lipstick. But what does it mean to appreciate my features and skin tone? As someone coming from West Africa, where skin bleaching is an epidemic—almost north of 50% of women in Senegal bleach their skin. 

So for me, I wanted to bask in my skin tone and pare it back to see me and stand in my light. My north star, when it comes to beauty, is that I try to find ways to enhance what I already have versus needing to transform. I think there's beauty in having the option to be me, be okay with that, and be enough as-is.

What do you think the industry could be doing better? And how do you see your brand's role in improving that space?

Listen, the whole of the United States will be at least 50% multicultural by 2026. But it's no longer okay to not represent as many versions of diversity as possible. And while not every brand will hit that needle, we need to create space for other brands to identify their "niche.” I think there's a lot of space for it, and the beauty industry continues to grow, despite financial uncertainty. For the industry to be better, they must be true allies by giving "specialized” brands (meaning those catered to communities of color) a level playing field in terms of equity. It’s one thing for a brand to be in Sephora, but how do you thrive in it? How do you become on track to be a lucrative and strong business? Historically, only specific cohorts of people were given a great head start in the industry, so we now need that to be given to us too. We need a couple of people to turn back and pull up those that deserve space.

What is next for Ami Colé? What are your goals?

We launched during COVID-19 and during the height of a very racially-charged conversation and climate. I think everyone was waiting for proof of concept and proof that it could thrive not only from a product and brand perspective. So now that we're here, now that we have proof of concept and traction, we’re now asking ourselves, how do we double down and make sure that we're still creating the best-edited quality products that we can? And our second goal is really growing distribution and meeting our customers wherever they are. For us, most immediately, that's focusing on our partnership with Sephora, ensuring that we bring that consumer that never has been in a Sephora to us because there are new options for them to purchase products. Filling your makeup bag with different options that are true to identity and just learning.

I think we're just constantly learning and listening and using our feedback loops. Whether it's email, DMs, or comments on social media, we’re always challenging ourselves to find new ways to continue to build with our audience as we scale (which is a very hard thing to do). So we're just training ourselves and the team on how to be cognizant of that and really make sure that community still is the core of our business.

Shop more of Ami Colé's beauty line:

Next: I Went to NYFW, and These Are the 6 Beauty Trends That Are Set to Dominate

What constitutes an It item in fashion? While some might point to celebrity endorsements, sales, or even of Instagram likes, I wouldn't use any of those things as measurements. If you ask me, It items are those pieces that everyone has silently agreed are the ones to know. They're the pieces that, when you see someone wearing them, you automatically know they "get it," kind of like a secret language that we use to communicate our knowledge of what's cool and exciting to us right now.

While there still isn't one universal set of benchmarks for defining an It piece, I have a pretty good idea of a few that have earned the title—five items, to be specific.

When the push for racial equity and "buying Black" came knocking on our doors in the summer of 2020, the designers of color behind countless smaller and emerging brands saw an unprecedented spike in attention—and most importantly, sales—that projected their labels to new levels. Flash-forward nearly three years, and the five names we're sitting down with today have taken that moment in time and run with it, building long-lasting brands out of the success of the It items that put them on people's radar in the first place.

It's not to say that some weren't already creating beautiful bags, jewelry, and clothing well before this moment. Mateo's pearl pieces have been gracing red carpets on the likes of Zendaya and Anne Hathaway since 2016. But for designer Brandon Blackwood, that summer of 2020 saw the meteoric rise of his "End Systemic Racism" bags that the internet went wild for. So regardless of how, each of these five brands have experienced at least one big breakthrough moment that catapulted them from emerging to It status. Sure, you can argue that a single viral moment doesn't ensure longtime success, but if there's one thing I'm certain of, it's that the designers behind these five brands have that special sauce.

Whether it be celebrity-adored jewelry or gender-obliterating basics, scroll to get to know these five Black-owned fashion brands, the buzzy items you might know them for, and the next It pieces they already have up their sleeves.

WHO: Brandon Blackwood, CEO and Founder, Brandon Blackwood

When did you first start to notice your mini trunk bags take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint?

Honestly, I would say once I saw so many people unboxing them throughout social media. It went from a couple a day to easily 30+ new unboxings daily. I would read the comments and saw how much people loved them. The demand kept growing from there.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? How did they come to be? When were they first launched?

I wanted to make a simple everyday bag that was still on-trend and easy to wear. The simple square shape and closure give it a classic feel. Yet the variety in colors and textures really allow people to play around and really match the style to their aesthetic. They first launched in 2018.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well?

I think they resonate with people because there are so many options available, and there's something for everyone. Whether your style is flashy or more neutral, the Mini Kendrick will always match your look.

If you could choose anything to magically become the next It piece, what item would you nominate?

I think the Nia Bag is our next "star” because we've seen our customer react the same way as when I first launched the Kendrick. They love how it just elevates any outfit. The customers are really loving the ease and functionality of the Nia and are just as experimental when buying different colors and textures of that bag, similar to the Kendrick trunk.

Shop the Kendrick Trunk:

Shop the next It bag, the Nia:

WHO: Matthew Harris, Founder and Designer, Mateo

When did you first start to notice your pearl pieces take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint? Any standout celebrities who have worn them?

Pearls have stood the test of time. They are truly magical gems and the only gem that is formed in a living creature under a body of water, each one being one of a kind. They also happen to be my birthstone, so I have a true love for them. 

I would say pearls took off early in my career when I launched my first pearl collection in 2016. Back then, not many designers, brands, or customers were wearing pearls. They had the notion or stigma that pearls were for old ladies and most certainly not for men. We decided to use the pearl in modern jewelry with a chic and minimalistic aesthetic. It was an instant hit! People were looking at the pearl under a different lens, almost revolutionizing it. 

One of the highlights was Anne Hathaway wearing our Pearl Blizzard Mobile earrings on the Ellen DeGeneres show. Zendaya also wore those same statement earrings.

What was the initial inspiration behind them?

My first pearl collection was inspired by two of my favorite artists, Alexander Calder and Wassily Kandinsky. Absolutely adore their work. One Sunday, I was at the Whitney Museum, and I saw a Calder installation entitled "Blizzard," and that's how the first piece was born. Jewelry is wearable art, so for me, it is important to look for inspiration from the greats.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well?

In my opinion, I believe they resonate so well with people due to the fact that each pearl is truly one of a kind. Sure, we can try to match a pearl as best as we can, but each pearl forms with its own unique size, color, and luster. What I also love about pearls is that it looks good with any and everything and for any occasion. That versatility is why pearls continue to be a staple in the jewelry world and with jewelry lovers. Worn my monarchs and maharajas, pearls are still worn and adorn today. 

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next?

Another piece or rather another collection I would want people to focus on next is our gemstone collection. Bold and vibrant colored gemstones. Over the past decade, the focus has just been on gold and diamonds. I find that this generation is scared of color and scale.

So yes, I would love to see young people wearing chunky gemstone rings and ears draped in decadent statement earrings. Maybe even wear them casually to run errands or even Trader Joe’s.

Shop pearls:

Shop gemstones:

WHO: Edvin Thompson, Designer and Creative Director, Theophilio

When did you first start to notice your mesh pieces take off? Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint?

I started to notice the mesh pieces take off when Gabrielle Union wore the Rasta beaded dress on her birthday back in 2020. She looked absolutely stunning on a family tropical vacation.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? How did they come to be?

The initial inspiration behind the mesh pieces are the textiles and fabrications I played with as a kid in Jamaica. My designs fuse nostalgia from my juvenile years in Jamaica with lived experiences in New York City’s progressive culture, making Theophilio a wearable biography.

Why do you think they resonated with people so well? What do you think is so special about them?

I think they are reminiscent of so many things that amplify happiness, joy, and celebrate identity. The mesh pieces are so special because they are a signature to the Theophilio brand’s DNA.

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next? If you could choose anything from your line to magically be the next It piece, what item would it be?

I’m really excited about our souvenir tee. We first debuted in last season in September and sent a couple of versions down the runway. So far, we have three colorways: white, black, and brown. I adore how Swarovski crystals breathe life into the design. The tee is an homage to New York culture, a spinoff of the "I Heart NY” clothing you would get at the souvenir shop. A large part of the Theophilio brand is embracing New York and the many ways the city has inspired me.

Shop mesh pieces:

WHO: Nasrin Jean-Baptiste, Stylist and Founder, Petit Kouraj

Is there a certain moment you can pinpoint when you realized your fringe bags were taking off? 

I first noticed my bags taking off early summer 2020, during the middle of lockdown. I remember it very well because I was pregnant with my second daughter, Somi, and super sick at the time. The whole world was on lockdown, and New York was buzzing with the call to action, following the tragic murder of George Floyd. Black Lives Matter and the attention on Black-owned businesses was growing, and I definitely noticed its effects. It was an odd time to have a Black-owned business. I was grateful for the support yet saddened by the circumstances that ignited much of it. With my due date fast approaching, it was like the world and I were both going through a transformative experience. I couldn't have been busier with Petit Kouraj.

When were they first launched? 

I launched in 2019 after a dear friend who owns what would become my PR company showed my first collection. She suggested I launch that summer, so with a little nudge, I did! It was quickly picked up by Moda Operandi, and the ball started rolling from there.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? 

The inspiration started with my background as a fashion stylist. I loved to design custom pieces for my clients and still do. Frankly, I just never found a bag brand that reflected me and had wanted to start a brand of my own. I had always created for other people, and after years working with and for other brands, it was time to create something of my own. I wanted to start a brand with meaning and a soul, yet unique and fun. Which is why I chose to produce the bags in Haiti, in the city of Port Au-Prince, where my parents are from. This has been integral to its inspiration and its namesake, Petit Kouraj meaning little courage in Haitian Creole. It reminds me to have some courage in my daily life even if it’s just a little. 

What do you hope they convey?

A sense of self-expression and joy for life. I've always felt that the movement of fringe and the fun colors are free and happy. I like to think a little bit of that rubs off when you wear it. I hope that people see Petit Kouraj and get inspired to express their individuality, move and travel through life colorfully or tamely but with a sass, to have courage in being themselves at all times.

If you could choose anything to magically become the next It piece, what item would you nominate?

Definitely Les Petit Petit metallic collection for summer nights. They're so easy to wear, a boost of color to an outfit, and versatile with a sterling silver crossbody strap—perfect for a carefree time with a few essentials.

Shop the fringe totes:

WHO: Kingsley Gbadegesin, Founder and Designer, K.ngsley

When did you first start to notice your asymmetric tanks take off? 

When the girls were living for it when I got to the club.

What was the initial inspiration behind them? 

Feeling like "the" girl and your eternal oats!

What is the meaning or intention behind the pieces? 

TBH, there wasn't any… It was just a feeling.

What is another piece from your line that you’d want people to focus on next?

There is something for everyone, and how you want to present yourself, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I'm obsessed with our Clandestine boots.

Shop the asymmetric tanks:

Shop the Clandestine boots:

Next up: An Homage to the Style Influence of Black TV and Movie Icons

POV: You've had your protective style in for the past couple of weeks, and it's starting to hit that point. Your natural hair has grown out from the bases of the braids, the scalp is dry and itchy, and then there's the frizz that won't go away no matter how much gel you use. You want to make the investment of four-plus hours in a chair and the cost of the service worth it, but the style just isn't holding up the way you'd like. News flash: You're making saving our style a lot harder than it has to be. You can take steps every day to maintain your protective styles using the best products. If you want to restore your hair to the way it looked at the end of that braid appointment, identifying the right mousses, oils, custards, and styling gels can be a game changer. Wearing your braids with pride doesn't have to be a challenge, nor does protecting and maintaining them.

Keep reading to find out which ones I gravitate toward as a beauty editor, veteran knotless-braid wearer (I've worn braids off and on since elementary school), and lover of products that give my protective styles the boost they need to stay looking and feeling fresh.

Helpful Tools

Hydrating Oils, Shampoos, and Conditioners

Styling Products

Up next, Your Hair Is Only as Good as Your Scalp Routine—Start With These Key Products

Fragrance has the ability to help us explore the world with our senses and subsequently allows us to create fond memories sparked by a scent. However, one thing we know for sure is the fragrance industry lacks diversity in the perfumers and creators who craft the beautiful scents we all love. Lucky for us, there are Black pioneers creating space within the industry.

As a beauty writer, I enjoy the options that come from traditional fragrance houses. But there is something so sweet about spritzing a Black-owned brand's perfume on my body as I walk out the door. Over the last few years, I've found quite a few fragrance options that I love from Black founders. As I did the research for this story, I was elated to see the growing number of options, with some brands being sold at my favorite retailers such as Nordstrom, Sephora, and Net-a-Porter.

Below, you'll get to know 10 Black-owned fragrance brands that are paving the way and creating unique scents that will become a part of your daily rotation.

1. La Boticá

Founded by Dawn Marie West, La Boticá is a luxury fragrance house offering everything from home fragrance to everyday perfume. Each scent is unique and made with handcrafted, sustainable offerings centering ingredients from South America.

This fragrance—which is also offered in candle form—is one of my favorites from La Boticá. Casablanca's earthy, grounded scent is inspired by the spirit and landscapes of Morocco.

Notes: fig leaf, davana, fig, orris, white cedar, galbanum

Travel to Barcelona through your senses as the notes of peony rose, mandarin, and grapefruit alongside sultry musk and wood take you away.

Notes: grapefruit, peony, mandarin, rose, pink pepper, woods, musk

2. Kimberly New York

Launched in 2016, Kimberly New York has become a favorite among fragrance lovers. Each eau de parfum is infused with a proprietary blend of 20% fragrance oil and natural solvents, creating long-lasting fragrances safe for even the most sensitive skin.

Bursting with a fresh, light scent, this is a perfect warm-weather fragrance that is all about celebrating diversity.

Notes: Asian pear, Fuji apple, fresh rose apple, rosé champagne

This best-selling fragrance started it all for the brand. The sweet yet grounded scent is inspired by the thought of a romantic day at the museum.

Notes: red candied apple, sparkling violet, marshmallow accord, creamy sandalwood

3. Fenty Beauty

I wasn't surprised when the original bad gal added a fragrance to Fenty Beauty's lineup in 2021 given all the confirmations of how amazing she smells.

Fenty Eau de Parfum's mix of scents creates a bold fragrance that will stand out in any crowd.

Notes: magnolia, musk, tangerine, vanilla, coconut blueberry, Bulgarian rose, geranium, patchouli

4. Maya Njie Perfumes

Merging founder Maya Njie's Swedish and West African cultures, this indie perfume brand develops each fragrance with essential oils, aroma compounds, and resins in small handmade batches.

With the name of this fragrance inspired by Minnie Riperton's '70s hit, this is an earthy scent that's described as an "unbound celebration of life, love, and creation."

Notes: floral musk, magnolia, bergamot, neroli, fig, wood

This fragrance is inspired by the warm aroma of traditional Swedish buns. All of its notes are blended by hand.

Notes: vanilla, cardamom, patchouli, cedarwood, amber, musk

5. World of Chris Collins

Founder Chris Collins—who you may know from Ralph Lauren campaigns—launched his eponymous luxury fragrance line, World of Chris Collins, in 2018, which features fragrances that evoke a sense of elegance and history.

With a blend of sugar, spice, and everything nice, this perfume adds a sense of mystery and spice to any fragrance collection.

Notes: cognac accord, plum, cedarwood

Want a new fragrance for date night? I think this 1920s nightlife–inspired scent is the one. With a blend of orris and musk, it evokes the experience of smoking a fine cigar and drinking a top-shelf rum.

Notes: rum accord, orris, sandalwood

6. Pink MahogHany

Founded by self-taught perfumer Chavalia in 2005, the independent fragrance brand is all about creating scents for those who have sensitivities to traditional fragrances.

As a tribute to the founder's mother, this sweet blend offers a comforting yet classic scent.

Notes: rose, mint, peach, musk

We love a fun, seductive fragrance, and this vacation-esque scent embodies just that.

Notes: sweet pineapple, vanilla

7. Mair

Launched in October 2015, Mair's mission is to share laughter and joy and tie scent to beautiful memories through fine fragrance.

With floral notes gathered from the fields of Drôme, France, this romantic fragrance will take you across the pond and into the depth of your senses.

Notes: pear, orange blossom, peonies, jasmine, rose, warm musk, cashmere wood

This well-balanced fragrance can shine day or night—it's long-lasting, too.

Notes: jasmine, Italian bergamot, amber

8. Travertine

Inspired by world travel, Travertine expanded into fragrance with handmade unisex fragrances created by the brand's in-house perfumer with unique botanical ingredients.

This calming, bright fragrance is reminiscent of a gorgeous day by the water.

Notes: green gourd, citrus, petitgrain, sandalwood, German blue chamomile

This light fragrance can be worn day or night and from season to season.

Notes: South American neroli, tart citrus, Bulgarian lavender, bold floral notes

9. Savoir Faire

Founded by artist Chris Classic, Savoir Faire's mission is to make the world and love of fragrance available to all.

If you're looking for an introduction to this pioneer fragrance brand, give this easygoing scent a try.

Notes: fresh earth, sandalwood, fig, white sage, pear musk, Japanese cedar

Love the scent of sage? Give this a spritz to clear your energy and space.

Notes: wild-harvested palo santo, clary sage, oud, Ambroxan, bergamot, Japanese cedar, tobacco, grapefruit, musk, cardamom, Cashmeran, heliotrope

10. Brown Girl Jane

Brown Girl Jane founders Tai Beauchamp, Nia Jones, and Malaika Jones started their CBD-focused brand to center wellness within the Black community. The brand has since expanded into the world of skincare and fragrance.

Brown Girl Jane's fragrances are all about wanderlust, and the best-selling Lamu—a Kenya-inspired perfume—lets your senses explore with scents of sage, salty plumeria, and coconut water.

Notes: bergamot, coastal sage, Italian lemon, salty plumeria, coconut water, gardenia, driftwood, solar musk, sandalwood

If a sweet, warm fragrance is your cup of sensory tea, this calming scent story is made for you.

Notes: caramelized apple, soft cloud musk, sandalwood crème

This post was originally published on an earlier date and has since been updated.

If you ask any Black creative working in the entertainment industry about their job, I'm sure they have some wild stories for you. And by wild stories, I mean unfortunate tales of discrimination and feeling insignificant compared to their peers. Luckily, these happenings seem to be occurring less as more light continues to be shed on the issues people of color face in the workplace every single day. So many positive shifts happening within the space keep things moving in the right direction. I've had the chance to spotlight so many wonderful Black entrepreneurs who are changing the narrative and making even more space for Black and brown skin on the market.

Today, I wanted to invite a few more of these gifted creatives to share their stories. I thought that Black and brown folks should be given the opportunity to write themselves somewhat of a love letter—a love letter to all the times they felt small but also the times they felt like their most confident selves. Below, you'll get a peek into the most indulgent self-care routines of four celebrity makeup artists and hairstylists. Keep on reading for their everyday staples, confidence boosters, and more. 

Maya René, Celebrity Makeup Artist

Follow: @maya_rene

How do you feel most confident? What are a few things you like to do to boost your self-confidence if you aren't feeling 100%?

I rely heavily on my Christian faith, so even when I'm not feeling the most confident, I have to remind myself of what the Word says about myself and my identity. Outwardly, I feel most confident when I'm well rested. I know that I'm the best version of myself when my tank is full. I also feel confident when I'm able to wake up with a successful twist-out with defined curls. I'm transitioning to my natural hair, and some days, it's hit-or-miss!

On the days I'm not feeling 100%, it's imperative that I carve out time for myself to do something that would bring me joy and hopefully turn my day around, which sometimes means taking myself on a date or FaceTiming my family for a pep talk or simply just going for a jog with my dog.

Has there ever been a time when you didn't fully appreciate the skin you're in or felt underappreciated by the people around you? If so, how did you overcome this?

Honestly speaking, I struggled with my identity from a young age up until my mid-20s. I come from a family with a range of skin tones and shades (all Black and all beautiful), but it could be argued that I'm one of the lightest complected of my immediate family. That being said, it comes with a lot of ridicule and questions. People always had something to say about my appearance, and I'd get teased a lot. I ended up internalizing their doubts about myself. I used to really not like myself, and it took a lot of self-reflection and prayer to push those negative thoughts away and learn to embrace what makes me uniquely me.

What are the most indulgent self-care products you love to use, and why do you love each of them?

I'm absolutely obsessed with skincare products. I'm constantly searching the market for the newest products. While I understand the journey to perfect skin is a long one, I really do appreciate the fast fixes of face masks. I will splurge on face masks. Whether it's a sheet mask, overnight mask, or thick clay mask, I have them all. There are so many options out there that target every skin concern. I feel productive when I'm able to cook a meal, clean the apartment, or answer some emails while also pampering my skin. Instant results are always satisfying, even though they may not always last long. I recently turned 30, so I want to be sure I'm taking the best care of my skin and sticking to my regimen.

What are a few staples you always carry in your kit no matter what?

My staple products include a brightening under-eye cream. Sometimes, concealer doesn't sit right unless the skin underneath is properly hydrated. I love a fresh, dewy glow, so I always keep my Kevyn Aucoin Glass Glow Face and Body Gloss on hand. This product isn't sticky and sits beautifully on the skin. I also love Bobbi Brown's Nude Finish Illuminating Pressed Powder—it comes in five shades. I don't always use them how they're intended to be used. Sometimes, I'll use them as bronzers, or I'll blend this product into the crease of an eye for more dimension.

What is your all-time favorite beauty brand for Black and brown skin?

I have fallen in love with Ami Colé. I'm so excited to see this brand expand on the market and hopefully onto the shelves of Ulta or Sephora! I have also really come to appreciate Kosas. I've been using more clean beauty in my kit, and this brand doesn't disappoint! Its concealers are amazing, and they have a great range in shades—that's the reason they're always out of stock!

Shop Maya's picks:

Tymothe Wallace, Celebrity Hairstylist

Follow: @tymwallacehair

How do you feel most confident? What are a few things you like to do to boost your self-confidence if you aren't feeling 100%?

I feel most confident by reflecting on when I wasn't the most confident in myself. My self-care ritual definitely keeps my confidence at 1,000,000—getting my hair cut and colored, facials, manis, pedis, and putting on something fly.

Has there ever been a time when you didn't fully appreciate the skin you're in or felt underappreciated by the people around you? If so, how did you overcome this?

I definitely had a time in my life where I didn't value my outer appearance. I've always been sure in who I was as a person, but I didn't feel the same about my body. God had to deliver me from that. He told me, "Every time I thought less of myself, I was insulting Him." That hit me hard! Every day from that day on, I had to tell myself I was beautiful because he makes everything beautiful.

What are the most indulgent self-care products you love to use, and why do you love each of them?

My most indulgent self-care products are my fragrances. I am a scent person, so I love to smell good, and perfume has become another art form for me. I even create my own fragrances, and the art of making them is so beautiful.

What are a few staples you always carry in your kit no matter what?

As long as I have a flat iron, hair spray, shears, and a Tangle Teezer, I'm good! I can make anything work!

What is your all-time favorite beauty brand for Black and brown skin?

My all-time favorite beauty brand for POC would have to be Dudley. That's where I was trained, so I had to use all their products.

Shop Tymothe's picks:

Nai'vasha, Celebrity Hairstylist

Follow: @naivashaintl

How do you feel most confident? What are a few things you like to do to boost your self-confidence if you aren't feeling 100%?

I feel most confident after a full self-care day. My favorite rituals to feeling rejuvenated are listening to one of my favorite artists (Somi), an intense facial, a freshly shampooed bed of curls with a little glass of peach tea. Ah… perfection.

Has there ever been a time when you didn't fully appreciate the skin you're in or felt underappreciated by the people around you? If so, how did you overcome this?

Absolutely! I go through this very often, especially now. It's intense and a roller coaster of emotions. The politics of the beauty, fashion, and entrepreneur space as a Black woman is quite taxing. Sometimes, social media and the comparisons can stimulate feelings of self-doubt. I tend to lean into prayer, meditation, and reminders of my body of work to refuel my confidence. But it's still tough. We have to constantly remind ourselves that we belong and we earned it.

What are the most indulgent self-care products you love to use, and why do you love each of them?

One of the most indulgent self-care experiences that I love is the AquaGold facial. I'm completely obsessed. I look like I had a week's worth of rest after this facial treatment. It's packed with all the vitamins and nutrients that my skin craves. I also like to indulge when it comes to my hair. I feel so refreshed after a deep condition and curl regimen.

What are a few staples you always carry in your kit no matter what?

No matter what happens, I carry my Tresemmé One Step Smooth in my kit and my luggage. I'm a jet-setter, so time is always of the essence. I get everything my hair needs in one step. Love!!! I also never leave home without my Curl Queen The Glove. I never have to use a comb, brush, or detangle tool. My entire washday and style diary is complete with it. 

What is your all-time favorite haircare brand for textured hair?

This is such a tough question because I like to use a bit of this and a little bit of that. However, the bulk of my go-tos rest within the Tresemmé collections.

Shop Nai'vasha's picks:

Camara Aunique, Celebrity Makeup Artist

Follow: @camaraaunique

How do you feel most confident? What are a few things you like to do to boost your self-confidence if you aren't feeling 100%?

I feel most confident when I'm caring for my mind, body, and soul. I've had a career where caring for others was all I knew, so I forgot how to care for myself. After learning more about myself through therapy and inner healing, I show up more confident. And when I'm not feeling 100%, I blast gospel or house music and dance, thanking God for where I am. I think feeling content with where you are in life is key. Contentment brings peace, and it's followed by joy.

Has there ever been a time when you didn't fully appreciate the skin you're in or felt underappreciated by the people around you? If so, how did you overcome this?

Oh, yes! I remember working at MAC and being told my hair (aka Afro) looked like Aunt Jemima as a joke—it wasn't funny. Another time, a client rudely asked me if I was the talent now because I was getting featured and taking pictures. Most of the hurt we experience is within our own communities. You overcome it by moving forward and keeping your eyes on the prize.

What are the most indulgent self-care products you love to use, and why do you love each of them?

My new book Love Letters to My Daughters is the one self-care product I need daily! I wrote love letters to the person reading with practical steps to overcome adversities and doubt. It's great because every time I open it, I feel like I am receiving a warm hug, and we all need a hug sometimes.

What are a few staples you always carry in your kit no matter what?

My Camara Aunique Beauty Lashes are always a staple. My favorites are the Mary, Ruth, and Deborah lashes! I always carry a Beautyblender and, of course, brushes.

What is your all-time favorite beauty brand for Black and brown skin?

In my kit, I have Kevyn Aucoin's Sensual Skin Enhancers and Black Opal Beauty. I love using those brands!

Shop Camara's picks:

Up Next: 2 Oscar-Nominated Hairstylists Share 10 Natural-Hair Staples They Always Use.

There's something incredibly empowering about watching a film that deeply celebrates Black culture. Although there's still much work to be done in terms of representation in the film and television industry, we truly seem to be making strides in the right direction. I also wouldn't be a beauty editor if I didn't appreciate the hair, makeup, and wardrobe used in these stories as a device to amplify the tale even further. I always believe these elements add a deeper layer to the narrative and more subtle depth to the characters.

This is especially true of the beloved Amazon Prime original film Coming 2 America (the follow-up to Coming to America). Although the original 1988 film has always been a fun watch, I have to say that the second is truly a sight to behold. My attention was immediately caught by the stunning hair creations displayed throughout the film. I'd never seen such a glorious portrayal of natural hair in a film before and it felt both incredibly satisfying and refreshing. Of course, being the beauty lover that I am, I had to know who was behind this stunning body of work.

It was none other than the incredible Carla Farmer and Stacey Morris—two Black hairstylists I believe are changing the industry for the better. Not only has their work on this film garnered them an Oscar nomination, but they're also the hair masters behind other wildly popular projects like Black-ish, The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air (Morris), and King Richard (Farmer). This feels especially important at a time when we're celebrating Black History Month. Black creatives should always be commended, but the timing of this nomination truly couldn't have been better. I had the chance to speak to the two about the nomination, their sources of inspiration, changing the portrayal of Black hair in Hollywood, and the products they can't live without onset. Read on for all their wonderful insight.

"It is important to see images of ourselves on screen that we can associate with," says Morris. "Normalizing this imagery is important. It is more than just character identity. It empowers us and forces acceptance of our natural-hair textures. For many years our hair looks on screen have assimilated a Western and European ideal of what beauty should look like. Now, we are able to exemplify our own diverse and versatile beauty, wearing our natural textures like a badge of honor."

"We are boldly creating new and evident beauty standards, changing societal stereotypes, and impacting how we view ourselves. What we do as screen stylists is a component to a domino effect that imparts change on hair discrimination issues and so much more. I would like to see this continue. It is not our differences that divide us. It is our inability to recognize, accept, acknowledge, and celebrate those differences and find things in common to connect with each other. I think as people, we all want to feel beautiful, proud, confident, expressive, and unapologetic in our natural form—no matter your race, and that is what shapes diversity." Farmer wholeheartedly agrees and chimes in with, "We don’t all subscribe to a European hairstyle 100% of the time. We have many different ways we like to express ourselves through our hair. I believe we will continue to see natural hairstyles and they will become more and more intricate and evolve—just like our music."

The Inspiration Behind Coming 2 America's Hairstyles

This philosophy served as the base and jumping-off point when designing the styles seen in Coming 2 America. And just in case you forgot, the duo was just nominated for an Oscar for this stellar body of work—something they don't take lightly. "It's pretty exciting," shares Morris. "Everything is going 100 miles per hour for me right now. It's like dreaming awake. I'm just trying to really marinate in the moment." Farmer also states that she's feeling blessed, honored, and grateful for the honor. The hair department heads also admit that it wasn't always a cakewalk.

"It was quite an undertaking," says Morris. "We made a pledge to reawaken awareness of our indigenous Afro-centricity through these visualizations. Carla and I collaborated with each other, Craig Brewer, the makeup department heads, and Ruth Carter who did wardrobe. Together, Carla and I conceptualized modern-day and classic Afro-progressive looks during countless weeks of ideation, research, and preparation. We drew inspiration from many places to impart a distinguishing visual understanding of unique identities amongst all the characters both socially and geographically. At times, the hair worn also symbolized and portrayed status, culture, pride, background, wealth, and versatility. It was very diverse—just like in real life. The goal was to present looks never seen collectively on screen in one film, to embrace and celebrate the culture, and emblematize our natural hair textures."

Farmer dug even deeper into various aspects of Black culture. "I admired the freedom of the images I saw on Afro-punk sites. The creativity and expressionism is valuable. To see a subculture with so much richness and uniqueness is rarely seen. I wanted to incorporate this into the younger generation of Zamunda [in the film]. The older generation was based on the original movie, more European influences, and more elevated textures and accessories than the people of Nexdoria, who were based on an urban sensibility."

How They're Celebrating Black History Month

It's also massively thrilling to hear that the duo believes we've taken huge steps forward when it comes to portraying natural Black hair in film and television. "We have most definitely made traction—just take a look at popular shows like Black-ish, Insecure, Dear White People, and many other culturally based films. As well as the movements for inclusivity and diversity on productions being implemented by the Academy. The hair and makeup unions are being an entity as well, stepping up for those being discriminated against in the workplace on sets. Yes, there is progress and it continues," Morris states.

Nominations, awards, or other forms of recognition move the dial in such a positive way. "Every milestone we make is important," adds Farmer. "There have been Black creatives behind the scene since the beginning of film-making, and each generation makes a mark and a dent. At one time, makeup and hairstylists who were women were not working in the film industry. Now, there's an abundance of us." 

When asked how the two are celebrating such a key moment in each of their careers and Black History Month as a whole, the answer was simple. Morris says, "I am literally celebrating myself, the history that I'm laying out for those that will come long after me, and the standard I am setting forth. I am also embracing those that came before me whose blood runs through my veins and giving thanks for their history and its part in defining my purpose."

Farmer stays true to herself and knows that Black history should be honored year-round. "I celebrate Black history every day! I hire Black, I post Black, I love and support Black businesses, people, and things!" If you're also curious about the products the pair is always using on their projects, keep scrolling below.

The Hairstyling Products They Can't Live Without on Set

More Natural Hair Styling Products We Love

Up Next: 6 of the Coolest Black Artists in the Industry Share Their Best Beauty Tips

If you were to survey editors, you’d find that everyone has their own favorite aspect of their job. Some love scouring Nordstrom for the best new arrivals, and some love spotting a micro-trend before it blows up. For me, there’s nothing I love more than discovering new brands, especially when they’re Black owned. Don’t get me wrong. I’m always down for digging through a sale section or test-driving a new outfit for date night, but there’s something so magical about supporting Black talent in the fashion industry. It can be daunting for anyone to break into the fashion industry, but to launch your label as a person of color is even more challenging. It has been reported that less than 47% of financing applications filed by African American business owners get approved. Additionally, in the last two years, many major retailers only recently signed onto the Fifteen Percent Pledge to ensure they were buying wholesale ready-to-wear and accessories from Black-owned fashion brands. 

Basically, it’s rough out here. And while there are some great organizations, retailers, and leaders paving the way for future Black creatives, the easiest way we can continue to advocate for and support rising talent is by buying their work. Buying a pair of shoes may not solve all the world’s systemic problems, but it’s a start. So ahead, I’ve rounded up 19 Black-owned shoe brands to shop year-round because buying from Black designers never goes out of style.

Brother Vellies

Do you know how we were just talking about the Fifteen Percent Pledge? Aurora James founded her accessory label, Brother Vellies, long before she started the nonprofit organization. The two-time award-winning CDFA designer has become beloved in the industry not only for her continued commitment to championing fellow Black artists but also for her artisanal shoes and handbags. You feel great knowing all the shoes are as ethical as they are stylish.

Shop the brand:

Chelsea Paris

It’s no secret that building a fashion brand can take years. Some designers will take a hiatus from the hustle and bustle, only to never really return full blast. But that was not the case for the founder of Chelsea Paris, Theresa Ebagua. While she founded her namesake luxury footwear brand in 2012, the designer took a little hiatus until 2020. This served her well because, since then, her minimal yet eye-catching designs have garnered a cult following among the fashion set. If I were to name someone who embodies the phrase "back and better than ever,” it’s for sure Ebagua.

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Nalebe

As an editor, I’m lucky enough to have the chance to occasionally meet the designers behind a label. (It’s something I cherish immensely.) So when I met Amina Means, the designer behind the 4-year-old luxury footwear brand Nalebe, I was awestruck. First off, Means herself is a gregarious force of nature, but her shoes? They’re next-level. If you think about the shoes that have attained It status over the past few seasons (think Mach & Mach’s bow heels or Versace’s Medusa platforms), they all have that wow factor—something that Means has gotten down to a science. With fun touches of animal print, crystal embellishments, and sparkles, all handcrafted in Italy, it only makes sense that the brand just got a deal with Saks. Trust me when I say it’s only a matter of time before all the fashion people are flocking to her for their footwear.

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Kendall Miles Designs

Some shoe brands have the capacity to make me cough up all my money, and Kendall Miles Designs is one of those brands. The namesake accessory label was founded in 2015 by the Chicago-born, New York City–based designer after she studied formal footwear training at Arsutoria School in Milan, Italy. Miles’s clear fusion of cities and craftsmanship shines through in sandals with wraparound faux-fur straps, mules embellished with feathers, and bright patent pumps. Basically, she’s out here creating for the city girls. If I’m even remotely psychic, every Angeleno, New Yorker, and Parisian will be donning these shoes soon.

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Jessica Rich

Scroll through the Instagram feeds of Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez, Cardi B, and Saweetie, and there will be one brand they’re all wearing. It just so happens to be Jessica Rich’s namesake shoe label. Founding her brand in 2015, the self-taught designer has become beloved among celebrities for her eye-catching use of PVC and platforms, but what makes her truly unique is her role as a trailblazer in the industry. She was not only one of the first Black shoe designers to be sold in Bloomingdale's, but she recently was also a part of The Black Designers fund, which was created to help fellow creatives receive the financial capital they need for their businesses. Basically, Rich is out here shattering glass ceilings with stilettos.

Shop the brand:

AM: PM

The first time I spotted a pair of AM: PM shoes, I was scrolling through Instagram, and my heart actually stopped. Maybe that sounds dramatic, but once you see the brand’s impeccable shoes, you get it. You’d think designs like pony-hair thong sandals and satin mules with a sculptural heel would be enough to make a girl fall in love, but for me, it came down to the fact that it’s a Black-owned shoe brand. In 2020, Edna Konadu founded the footwear label out of a desire to create affordable, contemporary, comfortable heels. And while it seems risky to start a business amid a global pandemic, Konadu benefited from the jump, as her shoes went viral practically overnight. This goes to show that leaping (whether it’s starting a brand or buying some shoes) pays off.

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Téjahn Burnett

Self-taught designers always bring the spice to an otherwise traditional craft, and such is the case with Canadian Jamaican designer Téjahn Burnett. After taking roles in everything from finance to communications, she spent years researching various aspects of producing footwear, financing for businesses, and marketing so that she could found her namesake label in 2018. Burnett’s dedication to learning every aspect of the business is felt through the details applied to her footwear (e.g., sandals embellished with cowrie shells). It’s this attention to detail that makes her brand one watch and shop for.

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Løci

Long before sneaker culture became a trend, Black people were championing, buying, and donning every sneaker drop. And while sneakers are a universal staple for everyone, there are still some brands that are doing it for the culture—like the Black-owned, London-based brand Løci. Founded by Emmanuel Eribo in 2021, the vegan sneaker label isn’t your typical shoe brand. It centers sustainability in every aspect of the business, from sourcing degradable and pragmatic materials such as cork, bamboo, and recycled plastic for the shoes to donating 10% of all its proceeds to helping keep the ocean clean. Løci is leading the charge in making the sneaker industry more sustainable and accountable.

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Arch NYC

Every fashion insider knows that no shoe collection is complete without at least one pair of shoes known as the "conversation starter.” This fact compelled Harlem-based designer Jazmin Veney to launch her footwear brand, Arch NYC, in 2018. With a formal background in fashion marketing, it makes sense that Veney’s pieces speak for themselves. The shoes often feature bold design elements like saturated tones, ruching, and pony hair. Arch’s shoes are what you wear when you want to be the belle of the ball.

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Hanifa

Anyone who lives to discover either Black-owned or indie brands has likely heard of Hanifa. Founded in 2012 by Anifa Mvuemba, the brand’s ready-to-wear collections have become beloved for the designer’s use of bright hues, animal prints, and luxurious knits. But when the brand announced the launch of shoes last fall, the fashion girlies and guys lost it (for a good reason). The brand’s first drop featured a stunning knee-high boot style and sandals, and it’s safe to say that Hanifa’s entry into footwear is something you’ll want to keep tabs on.

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Rebecca Allen

Not all designers have a traditional background in fashion; some of the best talents come from some of the most unlikely places. This fact rings true for footwear designer Rebecca Allen, the former VP of Goldman Sachs. After working in finance for years, the creative found herself frustrated with the lack of polished nude footwear for women of color, so she founded her namesake brand in 2018. The brand’s ethos is about crafting classic footwear for women of all shades.

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Good American

At first glance, you may think you know everything you need to know about the brand Good American. In fact, you might have spotted Khloé Kardashian in a campaign and called it a day. But what many might not know is that the brand was co-founded by Emma Grede. The Black British designer decided to launch the brand with Kardashian after realizing the lack of flattering and size-inclusive denim offerings in the market back in 2016. The brand’s inclusive ethos is embedded into every aspect of its work, including its ready-to-wear, swimwear, and footwear. With fun, trendy shoes available in sizes 4 to 14, the brand is a reminder that great style has no size limit.

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Kahmune

Any woman of color can most likely relate to the struggle of searching for products that match your skin tone—whether it’s a pair of nude pumps or an exact-match foundation. This lack of inclusivity led Ghanaian American designer Jamela Acheampong to found her brand. After literally painting a white shoe her own skin tone back in 2016, she got the idea to launch Kahmune, a collection of true-nude shoes. Since then, the brand has garnered a following of celebrity clients such as Lupita Nyong'o and retail deals with brands such as Shopbop, proving that women just want great shoes.

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Sunni Sunni

At times, the footwear industry can be dogmatic. Traditional ways of producing shoes, designing shoes, and even launching your label have left a lot of great talent out of the spotlight. But D.C. designer Taylor Dixon has found his light. The self-taught designer worked as a production coordinator for Ralph Lauren and apprenticed with a shoe cobbler before launching his genderless label, Sunni Sunni, in 2012. Since then, he’s been able to stand on his own two feet on account of the fact that his handcrafted footwear always strikes the perfect balance between trendy and timeless, feminine and masculine. It’s Sunni’s chic shoes that have caught the attention of power couples like Gabrielle Union and Dwyane Wade, but what keeps this designer in the spotlight is his continued dedication to creating outside of the typical shoe box.

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Keeyahri

Confession: I have found some of my favorite rising Black-owned fashion brands through Beyoncé’s site, and Keeyahri is one of them. Founded by Keya Martin in 2018, the buzzy luxury footwear brand has become known not just because of how many celebrities it’s been spotted on (though, that helps) but also for its one-of-a-kind sculptural heels. Despite her brand only being 2 years old, Martin’s fresh approach to design led her to get financed by and picked up by Nordstrom. So basically, you’re going to want to keep all eyes on Keeyahri’s work because it has all the trappings of making the next It shoes.

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Nicolette Nichelle

I occasionally discover some of the best new brands from our Who What Wear readers, which was very much the case for the Black-owned footwear brand Nn. Founded by Houston-based designer Nicolette Nichelle in 2019, the brand began as a passion project for adding a fun DIY flair to shoes she already owned. Since the brand’s launch, her work has started to catch the attention of micro-influencers for its eclectic designs, like rhinestone-embellished, cloud-shaped knee-high boots and gold strappy sandals with cannabis emblems. It’s safe to say you better keep your sights on this brand because it’s only a matter of time before it goes viral. 

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Titi Adesa

They say that some of the best things in life are surprises. This seems to be valid for footwear designer Titi Adesa. Raised in Nigeria, the London-based designer began her career in medicine but decided to pivot into fashion. After studying at Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion and traveling to Italy to learn shoemaking, she decided to launch her namesake label in August 2019. Little did she know she’d be starting a family and that a pandemic would begin shortly after. Despite all the surprises, Adesa has garnered a solid fan base that includes celebrities such as Emily Blunt and Jennifer Hudson, and she earned the Emerging Talent Award at the 35th annual FN Achievement Awards. If the designer’s quick rise in the industry wasn’t enough to keep us on our toes, her ability to add elements of surprise and delight into her designs (e.g., pumps with laser-cut topline leather and mules with rainbow mesh) certainly makes her one to watch. 

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Salone Monet

If you’re anything like me, you may have had an obsession with the fictional character Olivia Pope from Scandal at some point. Everything about her polished style—from her Prada tote to her wrap coat to her pointed heels—screamed "power.” And if the show were still on-air today, there’s no doubt she’d be donning a pair of Salone Monet heels. This Black-owned shoe brand was founded in 2018 after Monet worked in political PR and realized the lack of inclusive nude shoes in the fashion industry. Since launching her business, she’s become a force in the industry. She’s a founding member of the CFDA and Bethann Hardison Designers Hub and was awarded the Harlem's Fashion Row Icon 360 award in 2020. While Monet has built a following in and out of the industry, her true power hasn’t come from celebrity placements or accolades. It comes from creating shoes that women of color can put their best foot forward in.

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Voyetté

Editors are always searching for the next big brand, and I can, without a doubt, tell you that it’s going to be Voyetté. Voyetté Lee founded the Miami-based luxury shoe brand in 2019. And despite being new to the shoe game, the brand’s sultry styles have been spotted on everyone from Keke Palmer to Tinashe. If that’s not enough to sell you on why this shoe brand will blow up, look to the designer’s use of crystals, feathers, and mesh to create perfect pairs of statement shoes. If you think about the shoes that have dominated the fashion set’s Instagram feeds and compare them to the incredible work of Voyetté, then you can see this brand is poised to take over soon. And if it doesn’t, I’ll personally be revolting.

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It wasn't until recently that I started to really take a look at my skincare routine and whether or not I was using products that were truly right for my melanin-rich skin. It's just the reality that Black and Brown folks deal with dark spots and other challenges that those with lighter skin tones don't. It took a lot of research and product swaps to fully get my skin to a better place.

That's why I love to see that the beauty space is now filled with incredible brands that are truly by people of color for people of color. And this includes makeup—another topic I love that can be tricky to navigate when you have Black or Brown skin. Luckily, now that these entrepreneurs of color have fully disrupted the beauty industry in the best way possible, I can proudly say I've tried a good portion of these brands. After much sampling, I came to the conclusion that the ones listed here really do the trick for me. Below, you'll find a list of all-stars I always keep around without fail. If you'd like some new staples to add to your collection and want to support these wonderful Black-owned businesses, keep scrolling.

Bread Beauty Supply

I know, I know—Bread Beauty Supply is a haircare brand, but it still makes this list of all-stars for its killer formulas. I've been a longtime fan of the brand because its ethos is something that really resonated with me. Founder Maeva Heim decided to take matters into her own hands when she realized there weren't many brands out there with clean formulas that catered to textured hair. The brand's Gentle Milky Hair Cleanser and Creamy Deep Conditioner have been my washday staples for quite some time now. Each product is so nourishing and makes my hair feel extra soft and shiny but never stripped after each use.

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Buttah Skin

I only recently fell in love with Buttah Skin by Dorión Renaud. Each product targets the main issues faced by POC—discoloration, dryness, oiliness, and blemishes. I've been loving the Charcoal Detox Mask for weeks my skin feels extra congested. My skin feels noticeably smoother and softer the more I use it. I also adore the brand's toner-exfoliator hybrid with rose water because it always gives me a healthy glow.

For Black History Month, the brand and Renaud are collaborating with creator and host of Now With Natalie Natalie Manuel Lee on a special digital series called Beyond the Surface. The series will highlight Black creatives and dive into the stories that have shaped their lives, focusing on mental health, wellness, inner beauty, and more.

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Eadem

Eadem is another new skincare line that immediately impressed me. I've always really resonated with the brand's ethos of creating skincare specifically for melanin-rich skin. It's refreshing in a space that often markets products to those with darker skin tones that aren't actually safe to use. I know—huge red flag. But it's an important brand paving a new way in this department. The brand's founders, Alice Lin and Marie Kouadio, formulate their products with their own skin in mind, and you can tell when you use them for yourself.

The brand's Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum and newest offering the Cloud Cushion Airy Brightening Moisturizer are two products I reach for consistently. I feel really seen by this brand, and the serum has worked wonders for any dark spots that creep up after I have a breakout. If you struggle with the same issue, try it out for yourself—you really won't regret it.

Fashion Fair

True story: Fashion Fair was one of the first cosmetics companies ever to cater to Black and Brown skin. The brand broke racial barriers like no other and continues to celebrate the beauty of Black women to this day. After hearing from a makeup artist that the line is still one of the best out there, I, of course, had to try it for myself. The Priming Serum and Crème to Powder Skin Foundation do it for me the most. The foundation literally does feel like a second skin, and it just glides onto my complexion like butter.

Juvia's Place

I'll basically never stop talking about Juvia's Place eye shadow palettes and how stunning they look on Black and Brown skin. The brand was literally created to celebrate the rebels, rulers, and queens of the African kingdoms. There's just something really empowering about using makeup created specifically for your skin tone.

Maybe it's the way the colors complement your complexion to a tee or the fact that they highlight your features in such a gorgeous way. I have to say the eye shadow palettes do exactly that for me. The Nubian and Warrior II palettes are makeup-bag staples of mine. I love using either of them every day, but I find myself reaching for the Nubian most. The palette just has the perfect everyday neutrals.

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Klur

Klur was founded by holistic aesthetician and Black entrepreneur Lesley Thornton. The brand utilizes nourishing botanicals and a less-is-more approach when it comes to skincare. Although it's formulated for many different skin tones and textures, I've found it particularly helpful for my combination skin. The Supreme Seed Purification Mask is a particular favorite of mine—and not just because it smells like chocolate. It leaves my skin feeling soothed and balanced long after I've taken it off.

It magically lifts away the layer of film that accumulates on your skin during the day from wearing makeup, revealing a clearer complexion with reduced redness. The brand's Immersion Serum is also great to have around if you use a retinol. It really helps your skin retain extra hydration to make up for the dryness that can come with using a retinoid.

LYS Beauty

LYS earns major points for being a clean beauty brand that features products all under $30. A line conceptualized by beauty expert Tisha Thompson, its formulas are all packed with skin-loving ingredients and feature universally flattering shades. I have to say the bronzer and liquid highlight are a few of the most-used items in my makeup bag. They just really pop on Brown skin and provide that lit-up look I strive for every day.

Pat McGrath Labs

I mean, any list about the best beauty brands for Black and Brown skin is simply incomplete without Pat McGrath Labs. McGrath is a living legend, and her formulas are pretty on par with that caliber. The Mothership V Eyeshadow Palette is so drop-dead gorgeous I don't even know where to start. The richly pigmented shades are perfect for Black and Brown skin and blend together so seamlessly that it's never hard to create a showstopping look. Add in the Skin Fetish Highlighter, and you really have my ideal night-out look.

Shop Pat McGrath Labs

Shani Darden Skin Care

Using just about anything from Shani Darden's cult-loved skincare line is like laying your head down on a warm, soft pillow at night. Each product envelopes your skin in that soft, smooth feeling you'd hope for in a cleanser, serum, or moisturizer. Personally, I'm obsessed with the Cleansing Serum—it's easily one of the best face washes I've ever used. I was originally skeptical to give it a try since I have acne-prone skin, but it provides just the right amount of soothing nourishment my skin needs. It leaves it feeling clean but not overly dry, not to mention brighter and deeply hydrated thanks to the hyaluronic acid in it. And of course, there's her Retinol Reform serum. It's a great starter retinol or for days when you like to use a retinoid that isn't prescription strength.

Uoma Beauty

I've got a lot to say about Uoma Beauty and its founder, Sharon Chuter. First of all, I love that the brand is highly inclusive and the shade range for products like the Say What!? Foundation is so wide. That along with its gorgeous lip colors are a few of my favorite items from the brand.

Additionally, Chuter and Pull Up for Change have relaunched their incredible Make It Black campaign in honor of Black History Month. This breakthrough campaign sees beauty brands like E.l.f. Cosmetics, MAC, Mented, Morphe, Flower Beauty, Ulta, IPSY, and BoxyCharm wrapping their products in limited-edition black packaging. These limited-edition products will be available throughout February and will be sold on Ulta and through IPSY's and BoxyCharm's subscription boxes. The goal of this campaign is to shift the perception around what it means to be Black, raise money for the Pull Up for Change Impact Fund, and provide capital to emerging Black entrepreneurs.

This article was published at an earlier date and has since been updated.

Long before everyone adopts a handbag trend, an It bag, or a rising handbag brand, it usually falls into one of two categories: Either it’s from a Black-owned business or the Black community champions it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen my community and even queen Beyoncé herself sporting an indie brand or micro-trend only for it to blow up shortly after. Just look at examples like Telfar’s Shopper Tote and Brandon Blackwood’s End Systemic Racism Tote. It's safe to say that the fashion set is filled with so many incredibly influential people across all backgrounds who will always pull up and support BIPOC-owned brands.

As a Black woman, I derive so much joy from seeing how, time and again, we carry the trends. But it's not just the bag collectors like me who are swinging these bags over their shoulders. There are so many incredible Black designers who are leading the culture and doing it for the culture right now. In that vein, I’ve rounded up 19 Black-owned handbag brands to shop year-round. Whether they’ve reached cult status or are still growing, you’ll want to get your hands on these before it’s too late.

1. Brandon Blackwood

For most Black-owned handbag brands, it takes a few years to build notoriety in the industry, and such is the case for Brandon Blackwood. In 2015, the designer founded his namesake accessory label. While you may have first been introduced to Blackwood’s work when Kim Kardashian posted about his viral EST Tote, his work is worth keeping an eye on, as he's become beloved for his vibrant-hued shoulder bags, animal trunks, and chic sunglasses and has a ready-to-wear collection in the works that have the fashion set waiting with bated breath. 

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2. Homage Year

Let the record state that I said this first: The next It bag is coming from the Black-owned brand Homage Year. Unlike most creatives who dream of owning their own namesake label, for Jamaican American designer Antoine Manning, the idea of creating a brand didn’t come to fruition until the tragic passing of a loved one. Each drop is an homage to his late father and the Black diaspora. This makes each bag a true piece of art.

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3. Edas

Brooklyn’s fashion set is always ahead of the curve, so it’s only a matter of time before the accessory brand Edas takes over. Founded by Sade Mims in 2013, the brand has managed to garner a following among the creative set and celebrities such as Tessa Thompson, for a good reason, of course. With a collection of eclectic jewelry, colorful handbags with nostalgic shapes, and handmade homewares, it’s easy to see why falling in love with Edas, at first sight, is so easy.

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4. Max+Min

Call me biased, but I love my Midwest girls, and designer Tiarra Smallwood is no exception. While the Ohio-born creative may now reside in Brooklyn, her roots are present in her newly launched leather-accessory brand Max+Min. Just look at her minimalist shapes with maximal details like cow-print calf hair and gold hardware. It’s this balance that has landed her deals with Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s only a few months after founding the brand. The case has been made: Midwest girls do it better.

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5. Petit Kouraj

If you’ve made it this far, it’s evidently clear that I love handbags. But one brand holds a special place in my heart: Petit Kouraj. Founded by former fashion stylist Nasrin Jean-Baptiste in 2018, the handbag brand checks every box. It’s sustainable, ethically produced, and so damn stylish. Not only do these stunning knitted fringe bags make your heart skip a beat, but knowing that the brand partners with DOT Haiti to support local artisans is also heartwarming in its own right.

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6. Aaks

Across the globe, the Black community has a vast collection of nationalities, cultures, and perspectives. It’s a feat to be able to nod to the wealth, beauty, and experiences across the diaspora, yet Aaks finds a way to weave it all together, one handbag at a time. Founded by Akosua Afriyie-Kumi in 2014, the brand centers around traditional Ghanian artisans and artisan practices to create handmade woven handbags. The result is bags that capture the beauty of being Black and are begging to be taken on your next trip.

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7. Ashya

Speaking of travel, do you ever just dream of looking impossibly chic at the airport? Unless you’re Rihanna, pulling off a practical yet polished look while out and about in the world isn’t always easy. Luckily, the handbag brand Ashya exists. Founded in New York City in 2017 by Ashley Cimone and Moya Annece, the unisex label is creating travel accessories that are an "ode to exploration.” From curved belt bags that pay homage to the Blue Mountains to shoulder bags that document one of India’s oldest indigenous groups, it’s so clear that these designers are able to draw inspiration from around the world and channel it into crisp utilitarian designs that can stand the test of time.

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8. Ree Projects

When it comes to dismantling ideas around what a Black luxury label is, you need to look no further than the Amsterdam-based handbag brand Ree Projects. After working in a number of luxury houses (like Karl Lagerfeld and Balmain) designer Desiree Kleinen decided to channel her experience into her own namesake label, which she launched in 2016. The result? A collection of stunning architectural yet functional handbags at accessible entry prices that are all handcrafted in Italy. 

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9. BruceGlen

Have you ever stumbled upon a cool sustainable brand and wondered what makes it actually eco-friendly? Black designers and twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor have aimed to illuminate how the industry uses greenwashing with their handbag and RTW label BruceGlen. Advocating for the use of made-to-order production models, liveable wages, and biodegradable fabrics, they envision a more sustainable future for fashion and are having fun doing it. Its brightly hued bags and one-of-a-kind pieces are a reminder that caring can be cute.

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10. Anima Iris

Okay, Beyoncé is quick to pull up and show up in a Black-owned brand to any function. She’s pretty much been spotted in it all, including Anima Iris’s brand. But just because you didn’t beat Queen B to the punch, it doesn’t mean Anima Iris isn’t worth shopping for. In fact, the Cameroonian-born designer, Wilglory Tanjong, is redefining the luxury-handbag industry globally by centering and championing traditional African artisanry. From incredibly twisted leather handles to hexagon shapes, each handmade piece shows not only a level of meticulous attention to craftsmanship but also respect for the history and diversity of the African community.

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11. Vavvoune

For many creatives who identify themselves as Black, breaking into the industry can be challenging. Sometimes, you just have to throw yourself into the thick of it and begin building. Such was the case for Vavvoune designer and founder Valerie Blaise. With no background in the fashion industry, she taught herself how to sew using YouTube and launched her label back in 2015. Despite being an "outsider” to the fashion industry, her work has quickly become a fan favorite among the fashion set because she reworks classic shapes into something entirely new. Her work is proof that sometimes you need a fresh perspective to reenvision something for the future.

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12. Brother Vellies

When you think about leaders cultivating inclusivity in the fashion industry, who comes to mind? For me, it’s Aurora James, the founder behind Brother Vellies and the Fifteen Percent Pledge. What makes James’s work so trailblazing is that she’s all about lifting up fellow Black artisans and entrepreneurs—whether it’s through calling for more major retailers to buy and sell Black designers’ work or how she partners with African artisans to create her stunning shoes and handbags. No matter what James does, it’s very clear that she’s changing the industry for the better.

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13. Yvonne Koné

Copenhagen has some of the coolest talent coming out of it. Think Ganni, Baum und Pferdgarten, Saks Potts, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Yvonne Koné. Much like her fellow creatives in the Copenhagen fashion scene, Yvonne Koné has been able to channel the minimalist Danish approach to design into her work in a fashion-forward way. While her luxury handbag line is produced in Italy, it’s her continuous attention to detail that pays homage to her roots. The collection’s classic shapes paired with the occasional bright hue make them stand out and stand on their own in anyone’s wardrobe for seasons to come.

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14. Ciriaco

As an editor, it’s one of my greatest joys in life to stumble upon a brand I have yet to know about, so when I found Ciriaco mid-scroll, I was delighted. Founded by Ashley Ciriaco in 2020, the NYC-based sustainable brand has already made waves in the industry—not only because she’s been featured on Beyoncé’s site but also because of her abstract take on classic handbags. With duffles that look like a loaf of bread and actual shoulder baguettes with curved shapes, once you see a Ciriaco bag, you’ll get why the pieces sell out so quickly.

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15. Cise

Like so many Black-owned businesses, Cise didn’t get the full love it deserved until the summer of 2020. While the Los Angeles–based accessory and apparel brand was founded by Blake Van Putten in 2010, it has more recently gained attention from the fashion set and beyond for its viral PBP tote bags. But what’s great about this brand is that it’s not just using a trendy statement to sell totes. Whether you’re buying a cute bag or a pair of sweats, a portion of all the brand’s proceeds is donated back into the community. So you know you’re carrying your values on your shoulder for real.

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16. Kendall Miles

When I envision myself in the South of France living my best life, I’m most likely wearing Jacquemus with a pair of Kendall Miles heels. But while this fantasy centers around this Black-owned label’s footwear, It should be noted that its handbags are equally as dreamy. Founded as a namesake label in 2015, the family-owned luxury label has made a name for itself in the industry for its handcrafted, exuberant pieces that give a whole new meaning to the "rich auntie” aesthetic.

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17. Mowalola

You know how they say some designers are the future of fashion? Well, it’s not hyperbolic to say it when speaking about Mowalola Ogunlesi. Unless you’re constantly scrolling through social media, you may not know about Ogunlesi, but I’m telling you that you need to know her. And it’s not just because she was recently appointed as creative director for Yeezy’s Gap collaboration. Her namesake label, Mowalola, features futuristic takes on early aughts staples like trucker hats and oversize statement bags, and her work is visionary in its own right, making this British Nigerian designer prime for taking over. 

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18. Off-White

It’s not an homage to the Black-owned brands that have changed the culture without an honorable mention to Virgil Abloh’s brand Off-White. Anyone who has followed the career of the prolific designer was absolutely gutted at his passing. And while the label is now run by Farfetch, his legacy is still felt throughout the industry, and how he inspired the Black community and shifted the conversation around streetwear still lives on. So it makes buying one of these iconic bags all the more special.

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19. Telfar

Is it even possible to round up some of the best handbag brands doing it for the people without mentioning Telfar? While this unisex label is far past its blow-up moment and its "spotted on Beyoncé” second, it’s safe to say that this brand is proof of the power of Black-owned businesses. Telfar Clemens has managed to build a line of handbags that sell out before you can even add them to your cart (trust me—I’ve tried many times), and he has revolutionized how we think about nonbinary clothing, artisan collaborations, and even fashion television programming. If you can get your hands on a Telfar tote, then you, my dear friend, can have a piece of Black history—and what’s more stylish than that?

Shop the brand:

This post was published at an earlier date and has since been updated.

Up Next: If You're Not Already Shopping These Black-Owned Indie Brands, You Should Be

Kanye West is known for making big statements, and some may be a little controversial, but the latest from the rapper really resonated with me. "February is now Black Future Month," he said. His idea originated from an Afrofuturistic essay written in 2013 titled "How Long 'Til Black Future Month." West's statement implies his belief that the future is here and we are ready to work toward it. Since he is a fashion designer, I presume he believes the future has arrived for Black fashion designers as well. There is still a lot of work to be done, but as an optimistic Black fashion editor, his words were music to my ears. The future is here, and this month is all about celebration. So why don't we have some fun shopping up-and-coming Black-owned fashion brands?

There's is so much to love about indie fashion brands created by Black creatives, and you must check them out. However, I'm here today to tell you about those Black-owned brands that have already landed at our favorite major retailers, making them so easy to add to your cart during your next routine order. There is such a beautiful range—from feminine dresses to edgy silhouettes—from the below designers I've chosen, so I insist you take a quick scroll and find something special for yourself. 

1. Busayo

2. Jade Swim

3. Edas

4. Andrea Iyamah

5. Chelsea Paris

6. Christopher John Rogers

7. Danzy

8. Brother Vellies

9. Riot Swim

10. Sergio Hudson

11. Victor Glemaud

12. Curvy Couture

13. Tove

14. Brandon Blackwood

15. Good American

16. Mateo

17. K.ngsley

18. Khiry

19. Farai London

20. LaQuan Smith

21. Wales Bonner

22. Soko

23. Anima Iris

24. Sami Miro Vintage

25. Sika

26. Vavvoune

27. ByChari

28. Ahluwalia

29. Fe Noel

30. Lemlem

31. Ashya

32. Ree Projects

33. Maximilian

34. Petit Kouraj

35. Re Ona

Up Next: 32 Black-Owned Skincare, Hair, and Makeup Brands We Love and Support

Entrepreneurship takes a lot of grit, tenacity, talent, passion, and dedication. Like any career path, it's not exactly for everyone. Some people are well-suited for it, while others might be better taking their talents somewhere else. It's like a roller-coaster ride—there are some struggles and disappointments, but there can also be success and fulfillment.

And the truth is, it can be even harder if you're a BIPOC founder/creator/entrepreneur. There are barriers and inequities that still exist. And even though in recent years we've been seeing more support, there is still a long way to go.

In honor of Black History Month, I spoke to 13 Black founders across the wellness space to learn how they built their businesses, the lessons they learned along the way, and any advice they have for people who are looking to forge their own path. Even if you're not an entrepreneur, consider what they have to say as universal career advice. See below.

Mennlay Golokeh Aggrey, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Xula

What does being a Black founder mean to you?

Being a Black founder means being a founder.

How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

By remembering where I came from. I hail from a single-mom immigrant household. I hail from the legacy cannabis market. These foundations ground me, humble me, and keep my focus on why I do this work.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

I've learned nothing is as urgent as it seems. I think this patriarchal arm of capitalism is constantly nagging us that everything is urgent. Answer this email now. Answer this text message now. Answer that random person in your DMs asking for advice like right now. But here's the thing: It doesn't have to happen right now. Yes, there are actual deadlines and priorities that do need to be met on time. There is a business to run, but I learned that I can do it all with ease and with remembering that I'm a living, breathing human being. Not a robot.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

Rest is productive.

What's your definition of wellness?

Wellness for me is the thing that makes you feel well. A well wish for yourself or others. An intuitive stretch in the morning to get kinks out of your back. It can be eating a snack that you're craving, the wisdom from plant medicine, or sitting alone quite in the dark with calming thoughts.

How do you practice self-care?

My favorite way to practice self-care is through community care. I think self-care is important, but community care takes it one step further to cultivate deeper care and healing for the community collectively.

One manifestation of that is the Floret Coalition, a collective of 130+ small cannabis companies, including Xula, that funds equity-oriented actions via monthly donations of $10K to organizations prioritizing the needs of Black, Latin, and Indigenous communities. This work is done because of the few coins we all chip in to give to the community.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

My advice would be to take your time to sit with something that might not feel right in your gut. This could be anything from a business decision to a potential product name or a microaggression from a client, colleague, or collaborator that for some reason just didn't feel right. Also, never be afraid to ask questions. Look for a mentor or be a mentor.

Tai Beauchamp, Malaika Jones, and Nia Jones, Founders of Brown Girl Jane

What does being a Black founder mean to you?

Malaika Jones: Being a Black founder means channeling all of the innovation, perseverance, and creativity instilled in me by my community in order to fill much-needed gaps in the industry.

How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

Tai Beauchamp: For too many years, women, especially Black women, have felt forced to silence or undermine pieces of ourselves. I feel my truth, and I share my truth, and I am committed to creating space for others to do the same. We created both the Black Beauty and Wellness Summit and our weekly IG Live series, "You Good, Sis?" as a space for Black and Brown women to learn, share, exchange, grow, and advance on our wellness journey. By bringing my full self—transparent, vulnerable, strong, knowledgeable, and ever-evolving self—to the table, I give permission and license to our Brown Girl Jane tribe to do the same.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

MJ: The most important thing I've learned in building my business was simply to start and then perfect along the way. It can be debilitating to focus on the many elements required to achieve your long-term goals, and I've learned not to get overwhelmed with the totality but instead to strategically take it step by step and piece by piece. 

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

Nia Jones: "Faith over fear" because it reminds me to focus my thoughts on all the good that is possible versus sitting in a space of anxiety and frustration.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

NJ: Wellness is taking care of whatever you need for yourself physically, mentally, and spiritually. As a mom of three busy young boys, my self-care practice involves anything that is done exclusively for the betterment of my spirit—it can be something as simple as spending 20 minutes alone daily for relaxation time to taking my daily BGJ tincture.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

NJ: My advice would be to believe strongly in the power of your business mission and surround yourself with a team of people who will encourage and help you to achieve it.

Bea Dixon, Founder and CEO of The Honey Pot Company

What does being a Black founder mean to you?

I don't really think of myself in the terms "Black founder" first—that's not what is top of mind for me to be honest. I am a human first, founder second, and I happen to live in a society that needs to classify me by my race. With that said, I'm so proud to be paving the way as a Black woman and founder. My culture makes me who I am—but I'm hopeful that in the future, it will be so common to have founders of every race and color and that our backgrounds won't be as much of a conversation anymore.

How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

For me, there is no other way to show up. Authentic is the only way in everything I do, whether that be personal, work, love, or anything else.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

1. To be here for the journey and to not force it.

2. The importance of understanding what I can control and what I cannot.

3. And to listen to my intuition.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

I actually have two: that all things are in order even when it doesn't feel good and that everything communicates.

What's your definition of wellness?

Feeling good inside, especially with my mind and body. And also being in a good place with myself where I don't repress anything.

How do you practice self-care?

Self-love, awareness, and acceptance. Acupuncture, therapy, chiropractic therapy, water, loving myself, family, my partner, friends, and clean food.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

My piece of advice would be to stay true to the core of who you are and to not pay attention to how the world views you. Love the human race, make products for the human race, and go for it! Think as big as possible and know that you can achieve it no matter how far the heights! You may have to work harder at doing it, but do the work, stay focused, and achieve! And the last thing is to be sure you are taking care of your mind and body. It's the most important thing you could possibly do. When your mind is free and clear, you can see and think and achieve.

Shirley Menard, Founder of Beurre Shea Butter Skincare

What does being a Black founder mean to you?

It's all of me: creator, problem solver, seeker. Beurre was something new and exciting that began organically. I never imagined it as a business, just a side hustle that turned into a business, but the more I created new formulations, participated in events, made connections in the beauty space, and began getting sales, I noticed that people started watching. As an attorney, I've always had to navigate legal and business circles. I've been on panels and done interviews, but this seems next-level. The BLM movement that exploded in 2020 sharpened my focus and my purpose. Being a Black woman in business means being seen as an example of what can be done and the limitlessness of where we can go. I'm very conscious of what I do, how I represent myself, being in charge of my own story, and being an example of what we all can achieve.

How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

This is a lesson that was hard for me to learn. When I first started, I looked at what other similar brands were doing on social media, at trade shows, etc. I looked at what they were selling and how they were selling and marketing their products as examples of what I needed to do with Beurre. The more I researched, the harder it got for me to find my voice. I had to step back and ask, "Who am I? What am I trying to do? Where is my place in the beauty space?" Then I realized the only way I could do anything—create new products, design my labels and my website, create a plan—was to bring myself to the table. Beurre is me. The name is French—my first language. My beauty routine is simple, so my ingredients are simple. Every decision I make comes from me, not what I think it should look like but what it actually is and who it represents: me.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

The business needs to be fluid. There needs to be room to be flexible in order to move forward, change direction, or just stay afloat. There have been so many times that I've invested time and money without focus or because I was short-sighted. COVID-19, of course, has changed everything. I had so many plans, so many opportunities that were in place that got canceled. So now, we've had to pivot and adjust to the new normal.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

God is in control. I remind myself of this simple fact every moment of the day. It energizes me, it leads me, it frees my mind, and helps me not to worry so much. I put in the work, but I can't control what happens once an order goes out the door. I can make plans all day, but things can change in an instant. I can wake up one morning and my whole business can either die or thrive, but God will always be in control of whatever happens next.

What’s your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

Wellness for me is when the mind, body, and spirit are one. I learned that from one of the bands I managed in my former life, and it really helps my focus because when one part of this trio is out of line, everything falls apart. It all starts with the spirit—God is my center and my well. If my spirit is at peace, then everything else falls into place. I start and end the day in prayer. My mind quiets and shuts out all of the mess and my body releases the negative energy that weighs me down. I go for a walk with my music, and I work out three times a week to clear my head and strengthen my body. I try to eat right, but sometimes I need that ice cream and wine.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

I was asked this question once and had so many things I wanted to impart—legal advice, work/life balance, financial guidance—but I've come up with five key elements that I think are most helpful.

1. Passion: If you don’t have that fuel to keep you going, you won't make it. I think about shea butter literally all day every day. I think about formulations, new ingredients I could add, new opportunities to pursue. I'm constantly researching and going down countless rabbit holes in search of new ways to improve, and I love it. You will encounter so many "nos" on this journey, so you need that passion to overcome the negatives and keep moving forward.

2. Support: You really need a network of family, friends, and community to keep you up. Being a Black-owned, woman-owned business can be a lonely place. You also need a "business bestie" to talk about everything from marketing strategies, promotional opportunities, and packaging, to exchanging resources and managing your business. You also need one to keep your spirits up when you're having a bad day or need help making a decision that no one else can understand.

3. Knowledge: Know your product. Know your process. It's one thing to come up with an idea—that's the easy part. Now you have to figure out how to execute that idea. For me, I loved shea butter, and all I wanted to do was share it with the masses. I didn't know how shea butter reacted in the heat and cold or how it worked with other oils. I didn't know that if you put it in the wrong container, it can get moldy or that the wrong combination of ingredients will change the consistency. I had to educate myself in so many areas (sales, marketing, wholesale). It's a constant learning process. Every level of success brings new challenges, so always be ready.

4. Make a plan: Create a business plan. Sorry, I know this is really basic, but I think that this process is often overlooked because people think pretty packaging and cool pictures on social media means you have a business. If you don't sit down and write out a plan, you can't grow and develop into a sustainable business. It can start as a simple list that evolves into a concrete road map to the success of your company. It's also a living document—I'm constantly changing my plan, but not my vision. Things move so fast, and you have to adjust—I mean, man, COVID!

5. Listen and breathe: Black women are really good listeners. Listen to your customers, listen to your circle, listen to your heart. You can get caught up and sidetracked very easily when you go deep, so to get outside your own head, just take a moment to listen and breathe. Listening to my customers helped me to create new and improved products. Listening also prevented me from jumping into bad deals. Take a deep breath and listen to your heart. That's where the truth lives.

Taylor Elyse Morrison, Founder of Inner Workout

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

I had to sit with this question because being a Black founder is the only thing I know how to be! Going the business-owner route was especially appealing to me as a Black woman because it meant that could create new possibilities. I get to make the rules. I can wear my hair however I want. I can choose who I network with, and I don't feel like I have to hide parts of myself to be more palatable. That's such a gift.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

There's so much power in making a well-formed ask. When I was launching Inner Workout, I reached out to so many podcast hosts, media outlets, and potential partners. A lot of them ignored me or said no, but some said yes! (Shout-out to THE/THIRTY for being among the first websites to feature me.) You'd be surprised what's possible when you simply ask.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

I've been obsessed with this quote by yogi Amrit Desai: "I exist in perpetual creative response to whatever is present." It reminds me how much possibility there is when I don't try to impose my will on the present moment.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

For me, self-care encompasses wellness. I define self-care as listening within and responding in the most loving way possible. My self-care needs are always changing, but lately, self-care has looked like a lot of baths, giving myself manicures, going to bed ridiculously early, and being really honest with others about my capacity.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

Remember that you're just as capable of building a business as anyone else, even if you don't see a lot of people who look like you in your field. Also, there is so much free content and programming available to you! Some places to start: Future Founders, DigitalUndivided, and the Bank of America Institute for Women's Entrepreneurship at Cornell University. Finally, talk to your customers and potential customers as much as you can. Welcome their feedback. Act on their feedback. It's invaluable.

Mbali Z. Ndlovu, founder and CEO of Lukafit

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

Bringing my full authentic self to my business has allowed me to see opportunities that others overlook. I started Lukafit because as I spoke to the women in my fitness meetup group over the years, I noticed that most of us were unable to find activewear that accommodated curvier body types, despite the hundreds or thousands of dollars we were spending on workout clothes.

My own personal experiences as a Black woman in the fitness world have influenced the core mission of my business because I had met and talked to hundreds of other women who were also tired of feeling ignored and tokenized by bigger brands.

In contrast, Lukafit's mission is to truly celebrate our customers by developing every aspect of our business with them in mind—from our uplifting designs to our measurements specifically made for curvier figures to our inclusive marketing images and messaging.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

You must become your own biggest fan. Being an entrepreneur brings all your insecurities and self-doubts to the surface, and it also exposes you to criticism from others. Not everyone is going to like you or your ideas. You're going to hear a lot of nos. People will ignore and underestimate you, so it's incredibly important to develop a thick skin and block out all the noise around you.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

Every day is a new day. It's easy to get swept up and overwhelmed by the anxiety and stress of adulting, but thankfully my meditation practice has helped me develop more compassion for myself. I'm learning how to put things in perspective and remember that every day is an opportunity to start with a clean slate.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

My definition of wellness means taking care of myself not just physically but also mentally, emotionally, and spiritually. My self-care routine is a morning ritual that I practice when I first wake up. I meditate, think of a few things I'm grateful for, recite affirmations, exercise, and stretch. I don't always have time for the full routine, but whether I have an hour or just five minutes to spare, I try to pour into myself every single day so that I can show up in the world as my best self.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

My biggest piece of advice would be to find or create an accountability group. I owe most of the progress I've made in all areas of my life to the support systems I've built around me. I finally started exercising regularly when my friends and I checked up on each other and invited each other to classes.

When I first quit my 9-to-5 job, my best friend volunteered to call me every morning to make sure I showed up to my co-working space by a certain time. I also formed a business-accountability group with three other entrepreneurs, and we would meet every week to discuss our progress and goals. On days when I need an extra push, I'll join virtual co-working rooms on Clubhouse.

There's no shame in needing support. We are social creatures who thrive in community. Positive peer pressure works, and it really does take a village!

Dafina Smith, founder of Covet & Mane

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

It means being resilient. I love that in the beauty industry, I'm not a pioneer, I'm not unique, and this industry is very much our playground. I feel so proud to be a part of the transformational and empowering nature of our industry.

In terms of authenticity, your business feels like a child you give birth to, so you are super vigilant about the mission and vision and that breeds authenticity in a visceral way.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

Your mission and vision are everything. They should be the lens through which you make difficult decisions, take risks, and how you define your strategy. I have mine written at the front of my bullet journal that I look at almost every day. To be honest, I used to be dismissive of the concept. But as your business grows, you come across challenges that you are certain will break you—they don't, but it's usually looking at my mission and vision statement that gets me back on my feet again.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

Write the vision, and make it plain. (Habakkuk 2:2–3)

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

My definition of wellness is boundaries. I've always had very clear and strong boundaries, but I never had a perspective on why I had them. Perhaps they were just a defense mechanism put in place when I was young. As I've gotten older and have context about just how important boundaries are, especially as a mother, wife, and business owner, I've really doubled down on erecting boundaries as a foundational part of my self-care.

I have a few tools of self-care. Journaling has been my longest-running form of self-care. I write and express myself when needed and at a cadence that matches the phase of my life that I'm in. I also have embraced what I call "thinkating." I started with meditation, but my mind thinks way too much, so I use Omvana, an app that has a lot of guided meditations, and my favorite is the 6 Phase Meditation. Another favorite form of self-care for me is taking walks and hiking.

But lately, my biggest form of self-care has been detoxing from social media, especially my personal Instagram account.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

My advice would be to take some time to learn about imposter syndrome. Understand its triggers and build a support system for you of like-minded entrepreneurs to help you navigate the ups and downs of being an entrepreneur.

Michael Tennant, Founder and CEO of Curiosity Lab, Creator of Actually Curious

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

Generations before me were shown far fewer options than those that I see for myself. Today, we celebrate Black or BIPOC entrepreneurs much more than our parents and ancestors were exposed to. I get to use those inspirations and examples, alongside the lessons I can gather and synthesize from inspirational entrepreneurs of all races and backgrounds. I have permission in a way Black founders have never had before.

While I proudly represent that label of Black founder, my authenticity stems from my willingness to honor labels in our society and the expectations they might hold, while gradually dismantling the hold they might have on me. I get to be a living proof point of other ways of perceiving potential. And proof of other possible paths and outcomes born from inner knowing and affirmed by the worlds that receive one's authentic expression.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

Things rarely go exactly as I plan them, but sound grounded planning has worked out for me in the end. Sometimes, I'll set a goal around something that might seem fairly simple and routine. Say, for example, find a reliable accountant and file taxes on time. And that task, even with the greatest intentions and consistent energy, might take half a year to complete… and be very frustrating along the way. Meanwhile, I might write a target tactical or revenue goal at the beginning of the year and very rarely look back at that document—perhaps once or twice in the year. Then at the end of the year, I realize I've achieved my stretch goals.

My greatest gift as an entrepreneur is self-belief, self-reflection, and consistency directed toward clearly defined long-range goals. Skills anyone can have and that we teach. Finding what that looks like on an individual level helps to stay focused and shake off the small stuff to keep energy high and apply attention to those short-term decisions that will bring you closer to long-term goals.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

Right now, my purpose statement is, "I embody empathy and compassion as I spread emotional prosperity and happiness." It's a bit of a stretch, to be honest. I recently minted it for 2022. For me, it means a wish to strengthen my ability of defaulting to empathy and compassion (for myself and my resilience and to create more capacity for empathy and compassion for others) as a way of modeling what's necessary to achieve emotional prosperity and happiness in ourselves and the worlds that surround us.

Last year, we used proceeds from our first profitable year to create www.valuesexercise.com to help our community connect to their purpose. We enjoy leading guided values exploration as part of our empathy skill-building workshops for our community and for schools and organizations across the world. We believe clarity of purpose is a key component of individual and communal prosperity and happiness.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

My definition of wellness is living a life in which our individual emotional and physical well-being, as well as that of our important relationships, are able to take priority above all else. It's an aspiration no doubt, but without a vision, we cannot progress toward.

My freedom is the key to my self-care. I have a self-love morning routine consisting of meditation, tarot, journaling, and coffee. By the time that I've completed, I've processed and moved through my stresses, irritants, and anxieties. I close my routine with a clear sense of how I wish to invest my energy that day, as well as how to maintain a level of enthusiasm and grace. I feel free when I know what I'm feeling and am aware of the control I have in how I direct my energy and attention.

I am very open about identifying as an introvert. I am also open about my past struggles with social anxiety and substance abuse. These days, I find myself in extroverted roles, representing our company and teaching tools of empathy to groups. Conscious self-reflection, intentional scheduling, and energy- and rest-blocking are crucial to me showing up as my best self and keeping my cup full for the marathon that is business and social impact.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

Know yourself. What makes you tick. What makes you quit. What makes you sick. In my journey, I found that I spent much of my adolescence and young adulthood ignoring situations that didn't quite feel right, numbing the dissonance that created in me, and carrying on.

In my earliest stages of entrepreneurship, my ego blinded me from my areas of need and growth. A more mature and emotionally aware me can see that and learn from my missteps with empathy and love. In that sense, entrepreneurship can serve as its own vehicle for self-discovery and emotional development.

To the entrepreneur in you, I would say, "Trust that you know." And to the future you, who is guided by empathy, I would say, "It's going to be a fun ride no matter what."

Nancy Twine, Founder and CEO of Briogeo

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

It's a really profound experience to be able to defy norms and inspire other like-minded entrepreneurs to pursue their passions and dreams, especially those who may feel underrepresented. It's important to pave the way for each other and bring others up. I have been fortunate to have built a successful business throughout the years, and I want to help others do the same. As a way to elevate other Black founders, I've become more intentional about sharing Briogeo's platform to help amplify their unique stories. Additionally, I have enjoyed volunteering my time and participating in structured opportunities like the Sephora Accelerate program, which helps support Black entrepreneurs by providing insider knowledge and resources to succeed, as well as seek advice directly. I also sit on the Board and Diversity & Inclusion Committee for CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) to help improve representation in the industry.

I'm very aware of my personal values, and they really set the North Star for the energy and passion that I bring to my work. The brand pillars that Briogeo stands for—boldly innovating clean, transformational products, celebrating diversity, and empowering our community—directly reflect my own values. As an entrepreneur, it's really important to have a strong grasp of what you value as a person and as a founder because that's what roots you in your authentic self.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

"Perseverance is the key to starting a successful business."

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

Never rush into launching an idea—put in the needed work to make a business plan and learn the industry. When I first started Briogeo, I continued to work my full-time job in finance during the day, then I would go home at night and do beauty-industry research, come up with packaging ideas, and take calls with chemists. As an entrepreneur, when you're not worried about how you're going to make rent, you can put a lot more energy into shaping your passion project—this will make you feel more prepared to eventually take action and pursue your dreams.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

I define wellness as making mindful choices and practicing good habits every day to live an all-around healthier lifestyle—mentally, physically, and spiritually.

Self-care has played a big part in my ability to tackle challenges and external forces outside of my control. I root myself in the truth that challenges are only temporary—having and maintaining an optimistic mindset is key. I have established proactive practices such as meditation, yoga, and fitness to keep me stronger and balanced. Especially in the midst of these unprecedented times, it's important that people find what kind of self-care makes them feel happier and healthier from the inside out.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

Be proactive and open-minded about seeking mentorship from Black and non-Black allies. Building a diverse network is crucial to opening up more doors, resources, and opportunities as you strengthen your business strategies. At the end of the day, no one gets to success alone—you go further if you have a strong internal team and external support system. As an entrepreneur in the beauty and wellness space, I've learned it's really important to keep an "abundance" mindset. I'm extremely grateful for my female beauty founder friends because we support each other, share advice and perspectives, and promote each other's products. There's a misconception that you need to be competitive in order to survive, but that's not true—every brand has its own unique story and products, and there is room for everyone!

Also, research the network organizations in your industry. In beauty, for instance, there is Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), which has been paramount for me in meeting people and opening up opportunities along the way.

Denise Woodard, Founder and CEO of Partake Foods

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

My mom and dad raised me to bring a strong sense of integrity and kindness into everything I do—including work. So my authenticity comes to the company in the unwavering commitment to quality, inclusivity, accessibility, and opportunity in all we do. I'm building a team of people who align to these values yet bring really diverse life experiences. Altogether we're giving each other the space and grace to bring our full selves to the company. We're building the table instead of waiting for a seat.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

In the early days of Partake, Seth Goldman, the founder of Honest Tea, gave me the advice to "just get started." Over time, by listening to our customers, I would get the feedback I needed to iterate and create a product that people wanted and loved. I always strive to improve (at least a bit) every day because I know it's the small, incremental changes that make a seismic impact.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

"Am I good enough? Yes, I am." — Michelle Obama

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

Being aware of what serves me and makes me feel better, stronger, and happier and doing more of that. I practice self-care by running (a renewed hobby), utilizing a daily meditation practice, and spending time with my friends and family.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

The business advice I'd give to fellow Black entrepreneurs just starting out would be the same that I'd give to any entrepreneurs starting out—know your why, understand the financial metrics of your business, value progress over perfection, and specifically to the Black community, I'd say that your particular lived experiences are what make you unique—that's an advantage, not a weakness.

Karen Young, Founder and CEO of Oui the People

What does being a Black founder mean to you? How do you bring your full authentic self to your business?

Being a Black founder means that I'm often in a "first-of-its-kind" league—among the first to hit certain milestones, publicly at least. It's at once frustrating and thrilling. To be recognized for your hard work and to know that you're paving the way for other Black founders to see themselves, well, that visibility is necessary and exciting to be a part of. My authentic self far surpasses my race; it encompasses my nerdy self, my meditative self, my new-mom self, my curious self, my driven self, and my creative self. I bring those things first and foremost to my business, and thankfully, the people I choose to hire understand the full expression of my humanity first and foremost.

What's the most important thing you learned while building your business?

Listen deeply to your customers, and they'll lead you to everything you need for success.

What's your favorite motto or affirmation?

This year, with so much changing in my life and the world, I've simply adopted one word: surrender. It's a reminder to take a breath and focus on what I can control in the moment, which is often how my body is reacting to something that feels like an existential threat but often is not.

What's your definition of wellness? How do you practice self-care?

With a 9-month-old at home, I get little time to myself, but I don't feel ready for the day without a great shower. I've started taking what I call a "luxury shower." I buy an incredible bodywash or soap and have the most luxurious shower in whatever time I have available. When I have 30-plus minutes to myself, a good soak is my runner-up.

What advice do you have for people in the Black community who are just starting out and building their businesses?

Your success is not as rare as it can be portrayed. You got this. Practically speaking, find an audience with a real need, listen and learn with empathy, build what they need, and make sure you understand your numbers on the way up.

Next, 41 Black-Owned Wellness Brands to Shop and Support

This article is provided for informational purposes only and is not intended to be used in the place of advice of your physician or other medical professionals. You should always consult with your doctor or healthcare provider first with any health-related questions.

I don't know about you, but for me, buying from an indie brand or shop just hits different than buying from somewhere that everyone knows. Sure, shopping from big chains has its moments. But supporting a brand that maybe doesn't have unlimited financial backing—especially right now as smaller brands continue to struggle with supply-chain issues and other difficulties caused by the pandemic—always makes for a more rewarding shopping experience IMO. The resulting items in your wardrobe that aren't owned by every person on your social feeds are just an added bonus. 

Since it's currently Black History Month, I've been focusing my indie-shopping research on Black-owned brands and retailers—from Brandon Blackwood, the creator of the viral End Systemic Racism handbag, to up-and-coming ready-to-wear designer Kendra Duplantier. Ahead, find out which indie brands I'm eyeing most for everything from colorful heels and maxi dresses to '90s shoulder bags and baseball caps. 

1. Ahluwalia

Founded in 2018 after the designer's graduation from Westminster University, Priya Ahluwalia's namesake brand has quickly become one of the buzziest labels in fashion. The brand participated in Gucci Fest in 2020 and collaborated with cult-favorite brand Ganni in 2021, so if you haven't heard of Ahluwalia yet, you absolutely will soon.

2. Andrea Iyamah

Nigerian fashion designer Andrea Dumebi Iyamah founded her namesake brand of mostly swimwear and resortwear in 2011 with the aim of designing pieces that celebrate her African culture. 

3. Ashya

If you're in need of a handbag for your next vacation, Moya Annece and Ashley Cimone's accessory brand Ashya will surely have the one for you. I'm not talking about totes and weekenders, though. Rather, Ashya's bags are made for all-day, on-the-go excursions when you need to be hands-free while also lugging around all of your essential belongings. Think belt and crossbody bags.

4. Brand By

Tanya Sheikh—the former owner of the NYC-based boutique and showroom In Support Of, which closed because of the pandemic—founded her lifestyle brand Brand By as a way to bring people together through art and fashion. Featuring both artist collaborations and solo collections, Sheikh's brand will forever be rooted in community.

5. Brandon Blackwood

Most known for his End Systemic Racism bag that went viral in 2020, Brandon Blackwood's eponymous accessory brand has a little something for everyone's taste, from trend-forward shearling top-handles to structured leather totes. His fans? Kim Kardashian, Paloma Elsesser, and Olivia Rodrigo, to name a few. 

6. Brother Vellies

Founded by Fifteen Percent Pledge creator Aurora James, Brother Vellies has long been a favorite among the fashion crowd, with Beyoncé, specifically, wearing pieces from the brand often and for major occasions (like in Black Is King for instance). Handcrafted and sustainably made, the brand's bold and eye-catching accessories have the power to make any outfit look 10 times cooler.

7. Concept26

Concept26 founder Shari Smith started her luxury jewelry brand with the hope of creating an inclusive fine jewelry experience. According to the brand's website, the goal of every Concept26 purchase is to "enhance the distinct beauty and abilities of each wearer."

8. Edas

Another responsible brand to know is Edas, founded by designer Sade Mims. Mims started the brand in 2015 using only repurposed materials to manufacture her collections. Now that her brand has grown, she's turned to a made-to-order model that allows her brand's practices to remain ethical and low-waste without sacrificing style (at all).

9. Elisa Johnson

Eyewear designer Elisa Johnson uses her personal style experiences from living in both Los Angeles and New York City to inspire her line of versatile and timeless sunglasses.

10. Fe Noel

Felisha "Fe" Noel's womenswear brand Fe Noel was influenced by the designer's Caribbean heritage and designed to help women embrace their unique femininity.

11. Hanifa

Anifa Mvuemba founded her clothing line Hanifa in 2012 and has been revolutionizing fashion ever since. In May 2020, just a few months into the pandemic, Mvuemba kick-started the virtual-runway movement that we know all too well now with an Instagram Live show using 3D models. 

12. House of Aama

Mother-daughter design duo Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka founded their Los Angeles–based brand House of Aama as a form of "spiritual expression," according to its website, using historical references to create modern fashions rooted in the Black experience. 

13. Kendra Duplantier

Kendra Duplantier launched her namesake brand smack-dab in the middle of a pandemic, making the move after a decade of planning and designing at night following her full-time day job. Shortly thereafter, she was featured on Beyoncé's stylist Zerina Aker's Black-Owned Everything list, kick-starting a roller coaster of success that's still very much going strong. Her newest collection? A selection of on-trend leather that might very well be her best one yet. 

14. Kenneth Ize

Designer Kenneth Ize's namesake brand is known for its intricate fabrics and weavings, a majority of which are handcrafted in Nigeria. 

15. Mowalola

Yeezy Gap Creative Director Mowalola Ogunlesi's namesake brand takes inspiration from the designer's upbringing both in Nigeria and London, focusing on PVC and leather materials and creating everything from tiny bags to micro miniskirts.

16. Martine Rose

London-based designer Martine Rose has long been beloved for her menswear designs but has recently been growing in the womenswear world, with style stars like Rihanna frequenting her pieces (including the below).

17. Maximilian

London-based designer Maximilian Davis worked under Grace Wales Bonner before starting off on his own and has since dressed the likes of Rihanna and Dua Lipa. Casual.

18. No Sesso

Los Angeles–based designer Pierre Davis founded the brand No Sesso, which translates from Italian to "no sex, no gender," in 2015. Davis now works alongside Arin Hayes, and together, they are leading the community-driven brand to sartorial success.

19. Petit Kouraj

Stylist Nasrin Jean-Baptiste founded her accessory brand Petit Kouraj, or "little courage" in Haitian Creole, in 2018. All of the brand's distinctive bags are handmade in Haiti, which supports the country's artisans and also allows Jean-Baptiste to stay connected with her roots.

20. Phlemuns

James Flemons, the designer and founder of Los Angeles–based unisex label Phlemuns, created his brand for everyone, regardless of who they are and how they identify. The line is supported by Paloma Elsesser and Lil Nas X.

21. Romeo Hunte

New York–based designer Romeo Hunte founded his brand in 2014 and, in the time since, has partnered with American megabrand Tommy Hilfiger and has dressed Beyoncé, Michelle Obama, and past Who What Wear cover star Tessa Thompson.

22. Theophilio

Designer Edvin Thompson uses his Jamaican heritage and experiences living in New York City as inspiration for his cult-favorite brand Theophilio.

23. Sami Miro Vintage

Founded by Los Angeles–based designer and stylist Sami Miro, Sami Miro Vintage started as solely a source for one-off vintage gems but has since transitioned into a responsible ready-to-wear brand with fans in Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid.

24. Sincerely, Tommy

Based in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn, Sincerely, Tommy is Kai Avent-deLeon's concept shop that is full of independent fashion, home, and accessory brands. 

25. Sunni Sunni

D.C.-born shoe designer Sunni Dixon founded his brand of artisanal footwear, inspired by Black culture, in 2012. Since then, his pieces have been picked up by Saks Fifth Avenue and worn by Lil Nas X and Dwyane Wade.

26. Telfar

Telfar Clemens's cult-favorite clothing and accessory brand needs no introduction. Based in Brooklyn, Clemens's label has gone viral too many times to count, often because of his famous Shopping Bag, which is referred to as "the Bushwick Birkin." Recently, the designer began collaborating with industry titans like Moose Knuckles and Ugg, both of which resulted in major sellouts.

27. Thebe Magugu

South African fashion designer and 2019 LVMH Prize winner Thebe Magugu founded his namesake brand in 2015. The brand is designed to celebrate its roots while offering modern touches that are wearable by all. 

28. Vavvoune

Self-taught artisan and designer Valérie Blaise founded her accessory brand Vavvoune in Brooklyn, New York, where she comes up with the label's leather handbags in an at-home studio. From there, everything is made locally in the city's garment district. 

Up Next: Therapy Time: 6 Black Women Take a Deep Dive Into Their Natural-Hair Journeys

I am not exaggerating in the slightest when I say that Wisdom Kaye is one of the most influential fashion boys on the internet right now. If you don’t believe me, take two seconds to scroll through his social media accounts where you will see prestigious partnerships and recognition from some of the biggest names in the business including Dior, Fendi, Coach, and more. Despite the much-deserved hype from luxury brands, Kaye’s most reputable platform, TikTok, is actually centered much more on accessibility than it is on designer labels (those are just a perk). From how to make an outfit with just £17 to how to style heeled boots, Wisdom Kaye has proven he is quite literally a one-stop-shop for all of your fashion needs and desires.

This 19-year-old Texan quickly managed to make getting dressed one of the most entertaining subjects on the app which, in turn, resulted in his 5.2 million follower count. Believe it or not, Kaye only joined TikTok one year ago. His first-ever video was a quick compilation of some of his favourite ’fits, and it wasn’t long after that he dove right into the "how-to” side of the app where he began to inform, inspire, and entertain his followers. His overall aesthetic both sartorially and creatively have also landed him a modeling contract with IMG, multiple mentions on Vogue, and his latest partnership with American Eagle.

Accolades aside, the major draw of Wisdom Kaye is his relatable and transparent personality. He shops at Target; when he gets a gift from Dior, he freaks out (because who wouldn’t?!); and when his followers speak, he listens. Although Kaye’s popularity almost feels as though it happened overnight, there is no denying that he is no longer on the rise—he's officially arrived. Below, read our exclusive interview with everyone's favorite fashion boy as we chat about his personal style development, his thoughts on diversity in the fashion industry, and more.

Can you tell us a little bit about your relationship with fashion? When did it really start becoming a big part of your life and presence on social media?

Fashion started becoming a part of my life and social media almost exactly a year ago. It was January of 2020 when I was at college and discovered more about my style. It was my first time being independent and in a new place and there were different kinds of stores around me. It was particularly vintage stores where I felt the most comfortable—stores that focus on vintage ’70s pieces, flare pants, cowboy boots—all of that really inspired me. 

Were you a stylish kid in school/growing up? 

I can't really say that I was growing up. I was quite the opposite. I mean, like most people, I liked wearing certain colours with others, but it wasn't anything that was fashionable. [For the]majority of my life fashion was never really an interest. It only became of interest around the end of junior high/the beginning of high school. I wanted to fit in with everyone else at the time, so I tried dressing like other people. However, eventually in my quest for acceptance from others, I learned to accept myself and put less emphasis on what the next person may think. 

I know I personally discovered you via TikTok, as I'm sure a lot of others have. What was the moment you realised you had really "made it" on the platform?

I think it was the moment when I started getting contacted from iconic brands like American Eagle, who are now like family to me, and agencies that made me realise that my TikTok presence was actually going beyond what I expected. The day IMG contacted me I knew that all my work on TikTok had definitely paid off.  

Your fans are so good about giving you ideas for your videos. I love how much you've inspired them to think outside the box when it comes to fashion. What are some of your favourite videos you've created from their comments?

I think my favourite videos have to be the emoji outfit videos. That trend was actually started by @the.navarose on TikTok and my fans wanted to see me do it as well, and it was surprisingly really fun making outfits from random emojis.

Men in heels. Let's talk about it. And then tell me some of your favorite ways to style your favourite pairs?

They were literally made for us. Historically, men wore heels first to facilitate horseback riding and since have symbolised many different things. Today, since the majority of the population is not riding horses, a heel is literally just additional height—that's all. Whether it's one inch or five inches, it makes one look taller. I think the argument that wearing heels says something about your sexuality is ridiculous. It's literally footwear. Footwear does not change the type of person you like.

With that being said, I'll wear a heeled boot of any height (so long as I like the boot as a whole, of course) and honestly, I wear them with any type of pants—especially my AE jeans that seem to pair with just about anything. I have these Rick Owens Kiss boots with a five-inch heel that I wear with different fitting pants—slim or wide—they go with a lot.

Men in jewellery. Let's also talk about it. What are some of your favourite jewellery pieces or trends right now?

Accessorising is really important in my opinion because it can really enhance a look! If you're the type of person who doesn't like dressing up too much, accessorising can help your outfit look better than it really is. I think pearl necklaces look great on guys, I'm also a fan of wearing like two to three necklaces that work well with each other. 

What advice would you give to men who are a bit shy when it comes to showcasing their personality through their clothing?

I would say I completely understand you. It's not easy wearing who you are and having everyone perceive that. Going about in banal clothing is much more comfortable—no one asks any questions. But I say, if it's something you really desire, then you have to just do it. No matter what anyone does, there will also be people who have something to say. You could rescue three cats from a tree and someone's going to ask why you didn't save four!

As daunting as it is, I find solace in the understanding that not everyone is going to understand me or what I'm wearing, and that's okay. So I implore my guys who are too shy to wear what they want—dressing how they feel out of fear of external scrutiny—to just wear what makes you happy. Someone somewhere is probably already saying something about the outfit you're wearing that isn't really you, so then just wear you!

What are some spring trends you're looking forward to wearing this season?

I'm looking forward to wearing a lot of color and a lot of patterns. Men’s fashion is more colourful and detailed than ever, and I'm a really big fan of that, so I definitely want to experience that for myself. I’m loving American Eagle’s Super Soft Icon T-Shirt which comes in just about every colour imaginable and these AirFlex+ Temper Tech Athletic Skinny, because you cannot go wrong with a tried and true jean.

I know you love designers like Hedi Slimane and Rick Owens, but what are some smaller brands you're loving and supporting right now?

These brands aren't necessarily small by any means, but in comparison to the Rick Owens and Saint Laurents of the world, I feel like there's not as much discussion around them. I'm really into AMI Paris, Heliot Emil, and Bethany Williams.

What are three items in your wardroebe you really couldn't live without?

This is so hard! But I think the best way to answer this is to look at the items I wear the most. I have a pair of black Guidi front zips that I wear more than any other boot. I wear them for pictures or just to run errands—they're comfortable and stylish and easy to wear. I also have these big ’70s-esque frames that I wear often. I kind of like having something on my face and I'm a big fan of oversized things, especially glasses, so I wear them quite often.

It’s also really important for me to be comfortable, and some of the most comfortable jeans I’ve found are by AE. Really into their AirFlex+ collection. Lastly, would have to be my beanies and/or bandanas. Sometimes, honestly, I just don't feel like doing anything to my hair so I just slap a beanie on it or tie a bandana around my head. With beanies, specifically, they can provide a pop of color and can really transform an outfit so I really value those.

What's one thing you wish would change when it comes to conversations around diversity in the fashion industry?

I think diversity should start from within. In my opinion, though, both are important. I think it's more important than those who are pulling the strings are who we want to represent us as opposed to who we SEE being represented. If internally you have a creative team that's, of course, great and passionate about their craft that's diverse, then your results will show that genuinely and naturally. You'll see the diversity in the results be it a campaign like my recent campaigns with AE, runway, an editorial, a movie, or whatever the medium might be. If the people in control are a non-diverse group, then efforts to be inclusive are executed poorly due to a lack of proper understanding or worse, disinterest. No one is better fit to understand a group than a member of that group. I think it's best to have who is being represented be in charge of how the representation is delivered, and that all starts internally, meaning more diversity in staff, creative teams, meetings, directorship, and I think that will transcribe itself into the work.

What other Black fashion creators are currently on your radar?

From the brand and designer side, I've been a big fan of Heron Preston, Kerby Jean-Raymond, and Telfar Clemens as well. I own a few things from each of their respective labels and I enjoy the creativity that they display in their work. From the model and photographer lens, I love the work of people like Deon Hinton, Alton Mason, and Nicholas Wolf. Deon is a big inspiration as he's someone who operates being in front of the camera as well. Alton is, of course, indisputably the best male model in the world and his work leaves me amazed every single time. I love the work ethic of Nicholas Wolf and what he does with his own label. I can't wait for him to take over one day. 

Shop pieces we think Wisdom would love:

If you find yourself at home on Saturdays between 10 a.m. and 12 p.m. EST, do yourself a favor and turn on The Cross Connection, hosted by Tiffany Cross on MSNBC. You will feel significantly smarter and more enlightened after watching it (I can personally attest to this). One of MSNBC’s newest hosts, Cross has the unique ability to break down the news in an understandable, relatable way. (She even has a segment called Make It Make Sense.) She has years of experience in politics and media, producing, covering, and working on campaigns, and co-founding The Beat DC, a national platform intersecting politics, policy, business, media, and people of color. She’s also the author of the acclaimed book Say It Louder!: Black Voters, White Narratives, and Saving Our Democracy, which was released last summer.

Ahead, I had the opportunity to ask Cross everything I wanted to know about the power of fashion in politics, her thoughts on the style legacies of Kamala Harris, Jill Biden, Michelle Obama, and even Joe Biden, and how to continue to make inclusivity a priority after the Black Lives Matter movement. You will feel smarter and more enlightened after reading her invaluable insight.

Shop Tiffany's book:

There will be an intense focus on what Kamala Harris and Jill Biden wear over the next four years. How do you expect their styles to evolve during this time?

I hope they both uplift American designers of color. We’ve seen that women with global political positions can greatly influence sales for designers. After Vice President Harris wore Timberland boots, search for the shoes increased 376% week-on-week, according to the data. This administration has said economic equality is one of their key issues. Uplifting Black and Brown designers, who are often small business owners, certainly speaks to that.

Pictured: Vice President Kamala Harris at the 2021 Presidential Inauguration

Pictured:Vice President Kamala Harris at COVID-19 Memorial

Pictured:Vice President Kamala Harris in California

Pictured: First Lady Dr. Jill Biden at the 2021 Presidential Inauguration

Pictured: First Lady Dr. Jill Biden at the Major Joseph R. "Beau” Biden III National Guard/Reserve Center

What's your take on the symbolism of fashion and how lawmakers use it to make a statement this day and age? 

Focusing on what people wear may seem frivolous to some, but fashion indisputably takes a position as a cultural touchstone and people continue to use it to make political statements. When freshman Rep. Cori Bush (D-MO) wore a mask on Capitol Hill that read "Breonna,” not only was she affirming the science community by following CDC guidelines, but she was also educating some of her GOP counterparts—many of whom were embarrassingly unfamiliar with the story of Breonna Taylor and mistook the mask for the lawmaker’s name. What we wear can tell a story and, sometimes, influence policy. Rep. Marilyn Strickland (D-WA), became one of the first three Korean American women elected to Congress as well as the first Black representative from Washington. She wore a traditional Korean hanbok as she took the oath of office. Fashion is a celebration of our respective cultures and I love to see it.

I love how stylish and colorful your on-air looks are. How do you decide what to wear, and how has working in politics in D.C. for so long shaped your wardrobe?

Thanks! When I'm on air I like for the viewer to feel like we’re having a real conversation in their living room. I want them to feel like they know me because there is no different "me” when the cameras stop rolling. And what I wear speaks to who I am. D.C. is a very conservative town when it comes to attire, but nothing about me is conservative. I’m definitely a rule-breaker and that extends to fashion. I love to wear bright yellow in January or go sleeveless in December. I wear white after Labor Day and think sneakers go with everything. And after a year of wearing a lot of couch clothes, my desired couture as of late is definitely comfort. If I can’t breathe in it, I’m not wearing it. I wear what speaks to me and not what has the most popular or expensive label. I could wear a designer belt with a $20 dress I found at a consignment shop and still manage to convince myself I’m on a runway where intellectual exchange is my main accessory.

Pictured: Tiffany Cross on-air

Ever since the Black Lives Matter movement last summer, so many industries (the fashion industry included) have really woken up to racial inequalities, and there are great efforts being made to be much more inclusive. How can we all ensure that everyone stays engaged with this and continues to make it a priority?

I hope power brokers lean into spaces and conversations that make them uncomfortable. Equality doesn’t mean "allowing” people of color access. The rising majority of America is no longer asking; we are actively shifting power. From runways to boardrooms to the federal government, we are creating spaces where we are the decision-makers. As we take the helm it's imperative that every industry acknowledge their exploitative cultures of prejudice, appropriation, tokenism, and discrimination. Black women are core consumers in the fashion market with a $1.5 trillion buying power. We should certainly be among those leading these conversations and changes.

If you were Kamala Harris's stylist, what would your main goal be when choosing looks for her?

The Vice President is strikingly beautiful. The power of the patriarchy once made it more challenging for beautiful women to be taken seriously as leaders so some women try to tone down their beauty. It’s impossible for Vice President Harris to do that. I’d put her in beautiful and practical pieces that celebrate every part of her. During the impeachment hearings, Trump’s attorneys kept showing her support for Black Lives Matter in their defense video montage as though it was something controversial. If I could dress her for one event, it would be the next tie-breaking vote that she has to cast in Congress. I’d put her in a Spring 1986 Howard University jacket, a Black Lives Matter T-shirt, pearls, aviators, jeans, and some Chucks. The only thing that would make this better is her strutting on the Senate floor and twirling on her way out as she tossed the peace sign. Fashion can be political. It can also be pretty. I’m here for both.

Pictured: Vice President Kamala Harris at a virtual roundtable with local Black Chambers of Commerce

Let's talk about another very influential woman with great style. One hundred years from now, what do you think Michelle Obama's sartorial legacy will be?

Well considering that Forever FLOTUS Michelle Obama’s impact on fashion brands was so consequential that it was the subject of a study by a New York University professor in the Harvard Business Review, her sartorial legacy definitely cast a wide net of influence. The Obama administration was during the rise of social media so we got a unique lens into what Mrs. Obama wore to state dinners or just landing on Martha’s Vineyard. She not only loved fashion, but fashion loved her. She hosted a fashion education workshop at the White House, she invited students to witness Jason Wu donating his first inaugural gown to the Smithsonian, and her garb was frequently described as sartorial diplomacy. One hundred years from now I think people will still see that she was the most authentic First Lady the country had seen and her attire was an extension of knowing her and loving her. 

Pictured: Former First Lady Michelle Obama departing for Martha’s Vineyard

Pictured: Former First Lady Michelle Obama departing for Martha’s Vineyard

Pictured: Former First Lady Michelle Obama at a State Dinner in 2016

What message(s) do you think Joe Biden is trying to send with his clothing choices, and what changes have you noticed in the way he dresses since becoming President?

When First Lady Jill Biden decorated the White House lawn with Valentine’s Day messages, President Biden wore a black leather bomber jacket and jeans and looked like one of the lead characters from Top Gun. It was really a sweet tender moment between the two made only better with his dapper popped collar look. We see this President in jeans a lot, which makes him appear that much more accessible. Everyone is enduring the global pandemic right now. Very few of us are putting on suits every day. His fashion choices make him feel like he’s one of us going through the same things we are. Now that he’s not campaigning, he doesn’t have to worry about looking presidential. And he can just be.

Pictured: President Joe Biden on February 5, 2021

Pictured: President Joe Biden on February 8, 2021

Next up, five black designers who are painting the future of fashion.

When it comes to next-level artistry, creativity, and innovation within the beauty industry, Black artists are (and always have been) at the very forefront. (Name any major trend and, more times than not, the Black community started it.) Failing to acknowledge and honor that kind of influence is negligent, pure and simple, and it's been happening for far too long. Of course, Black History Month is an especially important time to celebrate the industry's sparkling Black talent, but the applause, recognition, and features can't, and shouldn't, be capped at just 28 (or in this year's case, 29) days every winter. It's a 365-days-a-year responsibility, and it's something we're devoted to here at Who What Wear. 

If you visit us any day of the week, you'll meet the Black nail, hair, makeup, and skincare experts who are raising the bar and setting a precedent where authenticity and untethered artistry are concerned. Below, however, we're shining the spotlight on six Black names you definitely need front and center on your radar right now—from Lizzo's hairstylist, Shelby Swain, who specializes in sculptural hair art, to makeup artist Tyron Machhausen, who's worked with celebs like Zazie Beetz and Rihanna. Not only did we ask each artist to share their favorite beauty tips and must-have products (that's a given!), but we also asked them to provide advice for up-and-coming artists and to reflect on some of their most exciting moments and memories in the industry. Keep scrolling—this is a must-read. 

Shelby Swain, Hairstylist

Follow: @theshelbyswain

Celebrity clients: Lizzo, Zendaya, Bebe Rexha, Amber Rose, Madelaine Petsch

Top hair tip of all time: 

My number one tip is to maintain proper moisture/nourishment. This will give you the optimal foundation for hairstyling so that your strands can be manipulated into numerous hairstyles with minimal damage.

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry:

Definitely when I gave Zendaya faux locs for the 2015 Oscars. She received so much backlash for wearing a natural hair look on the red carpet. People didn't think it was "elegant" enough for the red carpet. It was wild. And then with Lizzo… We've had some great moments, but I would have to say the BET Awards when I made a hat completely out of hair for her. 

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

Personally, I think it's all about being yourself and staying true to who you are and the things that you are great at. I feel like a lot of people tend to lose themselves a little bit because they're trying to follow a trend and trying to follow something that's not always authentic to them as artists. And I mean, that's how I kind of stood out with Lizzo—I like doing creative hair and hair art, and she's always liked that about me. I'm versed in all things hair, but at the same time, I love to create sculptural pieces, hair sculptures, anything that's cool and creative.

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

I absolutely love Instant Control for edges, laying the hair down, you know, being able to create mood with the hair. It's kind of all about gel for me because I can really use it to mold and create these amazing textures in the hair. Plus, it's important for really maintaining a great style for the entire day. But you know, a really good moisturizer is so important. I absolutely love the conditioning hair masks from The Mane Choice because in order to have a great hairstyle, you have to have a great foundation. 

Shop Shelby's picks:

Nai'vasha, Hairstylist

Follow: @naivashaintl

Celebrity clients: Alicia Keys, Tracee Ellis Ross, Lupita Nyong'o, Yara Shahidi, Elaine Welteroth, Aurora James

Top hair tip of all time: 

My favorite hair tip of all time is moisture, moisture, moisture. The key component to healthy hair is moisturizer. Moisture is the nourishment that your beautiful tresses need to thrive.

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry: 

The most memorable moment of my career was seeing my face on a billboard in Lagos, Nigeria. It was the first time I'd ever seen myself in that light, and the most amazing part is that my mother was with me. It was her first time traveling internationally. 

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

If I had to share advice with a new artist, I'd say, "Be patient with yourself, and embrace every lesson in every experience."

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

I love the Kérastase Discipline Oleo Relax Anti-Frizz Oil Serum because it is formulated to control all textures, especially thick or unruly hair. My pro-level tip is to use it as a heat protectant! The second would be Oribe's Cote d'Azure Luminous Hair and Body Oil. This is my favorite product ever. It leaves the most subtle glisten without being heavy. My pro-level tip is to lightly mist it on your brush before brushing the hair to create a refined finish. For styling, I love T3's Curl ID 1.25-Inch Curling Iron because it has nine heat settings—one that is right for everyone's hair type. Using too much heat on naturally curly hair can disrupt and damage the curl pattern. This iron allows me to heat-style without jeopardizing the health of the hair.

Shop Nai'vasha's picks:

Davontaé Washington, Hairstylist

Follow: @iamdavontae

Celebrity clients: Tia Mowry, Victoria Monét, Kali Uchis, Saweetie 

Top hair tip of all time: 

Invest in quality! Your hair is a strong statement. Never sell yourself short. Investing in quality products ensures that you not only look your best but also feel your best. With an array of different hairstyles, the hair industry has tons of products available no matter the texture, length, or color. You control the alluring effect on your spectators. Give them a show they'll never forget, and leave them wanting more. 

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry:

Working in the beauty industry has many moments of awe. I've been very fortunate to take part in a number of great projects. Black Is King by Beyoncé comes to mind. Being a part of a project with such an important message was truly humbling. To be able to showcase my passion and talent on a project that focuses on inner beauty and empowerment was a highlight in my young career. This has proved to me that there is more to explore, learn, and challenge myself to continue to grow in my destiny. 

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

Passion drives and motivates us to challenge ourselves to always be evolving in a fast-paced, ever-changing world. A word of advice to anyone looking to pursue a career in the beauty industry: Stay hungry! Your inspiration to grow is set only by your imagination. You have the power to create memorable moments with your craft. Always think, How will my work amaze and captivate my audience? Give them something to gag about for time to come. Then challenge yourself to raise the bar yet again. 

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

Choosing the best products to use on my clients is super essential. This sets the stage for the quality of work you can provide, and I look for products that leave my clients feeling and looking their best. A: Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross edge control. Everyone loves them some baby hairs! With this product, a little goes a long way. It’s light, doesn’t flake, smells phenomenal, and is super effective. B: I'm obsessed with Amika's Fluxus Touchable Hairspray. It doesn’t leave any residue that makes your hair feel sticky or tangled after application. It keeps your hair in place while still giving you a soft-to-touch feel. C: Ouai's Hair Oil is one of the best oils in the industry! It instantly absorbs into the hair, it’s very lightweight, it keeps the hair very soft, and the floral fragrance keeps the hair smelling amazing. 

Shop Davontaé's picks:

Michael Anthony, Makeup Artist

Follow: @manthony783

Celebrity clients: Ariana Grande, Katy Perry, Ava Max, Paris Hilton, Tinashe

Top makeup tip of all time:

Bring your jawline contour back behind your ears and down the neck slightly to lengthen the profile and give definition to your face from any angle!!

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry:

Shooting the "Rain on Me" music video with Ariana Grande and Lady Gaga was unreal! Seeing how these two powerful women light up and deliver over and over again was truly an experience I will never forget.

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

Try to test-shoot with photographers as often as possible. It's the best way to critique your work without the stakes being too high. You can really solve a lot of your own mistakes by analyzing your work objectively every time.

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

Laura Mercier's Translucent Loose Setting Powder is fail-proof and lightweight. I like to apply it under the eye with a Beautyblender or a soft, large tapered eye brush to set under-eye concealer. Jurlique's Herbal Recovery Signature Mist, which I use to prep the skin before moisturizer and to activate powder highlighter on the skin when the makeup is done. I love the way it smells and so do all of my clients. It does have a strong spray nozzle, so be sure to distance a bit before misting.

Shop Michael's picks:

Tasha Reiko Brown, Chanel Makeup Artist

Follow: @tashareikobrown

Celebrity clients: Tracee Ellis Ross, Alicia Keys, Gabrielle Union, Michael B. Jordan, Daniel Kaluuya 

Top makeup tip of all time:

I love to custom-make my own rollerball for de-puffing and hydrating my skin in the morning. It’s an inexpensive, luxurious self-care morning ritual. I use a whiskey ice ball mold (very inexpensive), and after filling it with water, I add jojoba oil, essential oils, and strained chamomile tea. The results are tightened, glossy skin that often allows me to skip foundation afterward. That said, if I do wear or apply a medium-coverage foundation, I always have to powder to set the foundation. My trick for making it look very light and clean is to go back in and whisk a bit of foundation on your cheeks, forehead, and chin back over the powder with a loosely bristled brush. One would think adding more coverage would make it seem overall very heavy, but whisking a little foundation back over the powder breathes a little bit of glow and texture back into the skin.

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry:

Two memories stand out in a career where I constantly live beyond my wildest dreams every single day. It’s very rare to have a client perform at the Oscars. I’ve now been back several times, but the first time so clearly stands out in memory. I was working with Florence Welch. She was also performing with Elton John at his annual Oscar party, so we had a lot of logistics to sort out during the day, including having a police escort to make it to both red carpets with a change in between. We were moving very fast. A door closed and locked behind me, and I somehow ended up walking the entire red carpet, casually drinking champagne. Later, I was standing right behind the main curtain backstage doing touch-ups, and I looked out into the front row and at the theatre. It was the first time I paused all day and took it all in. That’s when the moment fully sunk in. Later that night, I had the same feeling standing just offstage watching her and Elton sing "Tiny Dancer."

Touring with Jill Scott was also a dream. I’ve seen her perform "He Loves Me” countless times in countless countries across the globe. She moves me every single time. No matter how hectic things are backstage, when the chords to the song start, I run back just off to the side behind the curtain. Touring is hard on the body and hard on the mind. You’re living on the road with no schedule. You’re moving from country to country and city to city at odd times, in the middle of the night, by plane, bus, and car. Hearing her sing "He Loves Me” when the key changes to opera restores me every single time. Occasionally, I’ll zone out and watch someone in the audience watch her, and the look on their face reminds me… that while Jilly’s a dear friend and client, I’m working with living legend Jill Scott. 

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

Have your own point of view—your own aesthetic and style. Be authentically and unapologetically you in your art. The right clients will find and appreciate you. It’s a terrible place to be as an artist when your art doesn’t fully reflect your instincts and you’re aware of it. You can’t fully create and thrive in that space. Be you. The world needs more you.

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

I use Chanel's Baume Essential Multi-Use Glow Stick on every face every time. It’s like painting with light. It brings a sheen back to skin that powder or foundation can dull down, so it’s also the perfect trick to hide a fuller coverage into looking like bare skin. I like to apply it where the sun would naturally hit—the tops of cheekbones, the bridge of the nose, and the chin. I’ll even apply a dab in the center of the eyelids to "wake up" powder eye shadow. A little on the décolletage extends the glow and makes the sheen on the face look so natural. I don’t like the face to look too made up, per se, and eyeliner can sometimes be a bit too much when you’re trying to strike a delicate balance with a bolder lip. I do, however, also love definition around the eyes. Enter Le Volume Stretch de Chanel Mascara. The 3D-printed brush lets me get right up to the lash line, so I get my definition without the added product buildup. The eyes pop, and it really wakes up the whole face.

Shop Tasha's picks:

Tyron Machhausen, Chanel Makeup Artist

Follow: @tyronmachhausen

Celebrity clients: Jessica Chastain, Zazie Beetz, Rihanna, Amanda Seyfried, Dakota Fanning

Top makeup tip of all time: 

My best tip would be applying black liner in the upper waterline for an instant, hyper-natural, and bright-eyed look. It really makes the eye pop without it looking "makeup-y."

One standout moment or memory you've had since making it in the beauty industry:

There are definitely a couple. It's always when a "first" happens—your first Vogue cover, your first major campaign, or the first time you get to work with your favorite celebrity. But one moment stands out for me: I shot a W cover with Margot Robbie and the artist Bill Viola. I love Margot, and I am a huge fan of Bill's work. The first time I saw his work at the Tate Modern in London, there was one piece of his, in particular, that touched me deeply, and at the W shoot, I had the most beautiful conversation with him about this specific piece, which has haunted me ever since. Never would I have dreamed to be able to collaborate with Bill Viola. It's something I will never forget. 

What's one piece of advice you'd give artists who are just starting out?

Be focused, work your butt off, and always be curious.

What beauty products can you not live without when working on your clients?

I use Chanel's Hydra Beauty Essence Mist all the time—before makeup, as a setting spray, and during the day to refresh a look. It creates the most gorgeous dewy, natural finish when it’s being used to set the makeup. The second would be a lash curler. It makes all the difference for an awake, bright-eyed finish. Last, I love skin, and with Chanel's Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Stick, I am able to set subtle highlights for an ultra-polished, dewy look. I apply it on the highest points of the face for a sculpted look, and I also love using it for lips and eyelids.

Shop Tyron's picks:

This post was originally published at an earlier date and has since been updated. 

In honor of Black History Month, we've decided to launch an editorial initiative, Next Gen, where we'll be highlighting creatives that are changing the fashion industry. Our intention with this series is to dive deeper into the people that have—and to continue to—shape every facet of the fashion industry. 

At this point in the month, we've opened up discussions with some of the industry's key players to address systemic racism and its symptoms that remain all-to-present in fashion. We've heard from the Black designers and Black stylists doing the work to make this industry a more equitable environment. But there's another group who often get silenced in these conversations about inclusivity: models. 

Let's face it: Black models are the ones who carry out the industry's goals of diversity and inclusion. It's their faces who we see plastered to billboards, gracing the latest season's runways, and featured in our targeted ads. But for all the airtime they get in the media, models are a group that the industry has historically been left out of bigger-picture decisions. Of course, many have built up their own platforms with audiences that rival the brands who book them, but that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of challenges that Black models are still faced with.

The reality is that a client might use them for a few campaigns to appear more diverse on the surface and then ghost. Or, as is sadly the more likely instance, a model will be booked for a job only to walk onto the set and find a makeup artist who lacks their shades, a hairstylist who doesn't know how to work with Black hair and a photographer who doesn't have the lighting skills to shoot darker skin tones. For true inclusivity to be a reality, there's still a lot that needs to happen.

We sat down with five models whose résumés span everything from the runway to the cover of your favorite magazines to dive deeper into the conversation. Ahead, hear from them on what needs to change for the industry to move past performative allyship, some of their work they're proudest of, and what they're passionate about outside of modeling.

What inspired you to get into modeling in the first place?

I always planned on going to law school and going into politics, and realized very quickly— after moving to the South for school—that some spaces are not built for me, a fat Black woman, to win. What my heart really desired—being center stage telling stories and being creative—didn't seem attainable because I never saw a fat Black woman acting as the main character in anything I consumed as a child. I thought back to who I was before the world told me I couldn't be that. She was a little girl in a room writing stories about beauty, life, and romance surrounded by copies of Teen Vogue. So I moved to New York to find her again, and modeling happened. 

What impact do you hope your modeling work has?

To be honest, my work is not so motivated by changing the industry—which is deeply rooted in misogyny, colorism, fatphobia, and capitalism—as it is in changing the hearts of people who consume it. I want people to consider how pretty privilege impacts our lives outside of fashion, how we treat others based on body-based social capital, and how we can channel beauty and prosperity outside of the systems mentioned above. I want us to challenge our definitions of beauty and how we interact with it in our daily lives, and I want us to be surrounded by people, places, and things that call us back to our highest selves, even in unexpected places. I want to be someone who calls you to your highest self in an unexpected place. 

Fashion over the past few years has had a reckoning with systemic racism. How do you think the industry as a whole can move past performative allyship?

Clients and agencies can stop trying to look like an ally and actually embody anti-racism work. That's a great start. Google is free. Production teams scout talent and create vision boards on the same internet that I exist on so I know the information is available to them. Pay the folks you put on your mood boards. Pay us a lot of money for the absolutely invaluable work we provide. We are not a trend, we're not going anywhere, and we will hold the industry accountable when BLM is no longer in social media account bios.

Which has been your favorite modeling project you've done so far, and why?

I was naked and oiled up for Glossier. That did it for me. It's very liberating to sit in a room bare-ass naked, and be the star, and then have it plastered all over the country and published. Pretty cool. Honestly, I rarely like what I wear on sets because stylists love to play fat women for sport. The stylist on that Glossier shoot, AJ Gibbson, brought a skin-toned thong and pasties, and the makeup artist Michela Wariebi got all up in my crevices with body oil. I'm still laughing thinking about how intimate I was with complete strangers that day. Really beautiful.

Your modeling résumé spans work from the runway to magazine covers. How can brands and talent agencies be not only diverse but also avoid tokenism in the process? What would true inclusivity look like in your eyes? 

True inclusivity in my eyes is a 360-degree approach to producing photo shoots. It means making sure that everyone on set is capable of working with models of all skin tones and hair types, making sure that photographers can properly light a variety of shades, etc. Casting also plays a huge part in inclusivity. Many casting directors have archaic ideals around beauty and fashion that perpetuate the lack of diversity we see today.

Style and beauty can be a tool of survival for the Black community. What role do you think fashion has played in your life?

Fashion, style, and beauty have played a huge role in my personal liberation. The decision to go natural was a tipping point into a deeper exploration of myself. It began an internal dialogue that forced me to ask myself, in what other ways have I been programmed to believe that I am not worthy? That I am not enough? That I am inadequate? If for 24 years I could carry this false belief about myself, that I was somehow less than with my natural hair, then what other beliefs were I carrying that subconsciously controlled the way I moved through the world?

Fashion and beauty are their own forms of storytelling—the industry at large has long been telling stories that center on whiteness, and Eurocentric beauty features. For you, what story do you hope your work tells? 

I want my work to tell the story of an "imperfect" person finding their own version of perfection through loving themselves and using that love of self to then empower everyone around them.

What was your biggest "I made it" moment to date? Any personal milestones you're proud of?

I am experiencing my biggest "I made it" moment now with the completion of the book I've been writing for the last four years that chronicles my experience of going from disempowered to self-realized. It's my magnum opus. I'm sure I'll go on to do other great things but this is huge for me.

In terms of fashion, though, I think the biggest "I made it" moment was seeing myself on a billboard in SoHo after being told by my then-agency that I wouldn't get work with natural hair. As I said, God chooses those who choose themselves.

Fashion over the past few years has had a reckoning with systemic racism. How do you think the industry as a whole can move past performative allyship? 

It is really simple. Diversity and inclusiveness. There are still brands out there that see using light-skinned and dark-skinned girls as a "trend." They use us for one or two jobs or seasons to please people and then stop. It is kind of funny to me that we are still having this conversation because Ellen Pompeo said something in an interview almost three years ago, and it stuck with me. She said, "I don't see enough color. And I didn't see enough color when I walked in the room today. I think it's up to all productions to make sure that your crew looks like the world that you see…" and when she said that it really struck me. To this day, we have to be aware that if our lives outside of set look much more diverse than when we're on set, there is a disconnect that needs to be fixed. 

Fashion and beauty are their own forms of storytelling—the industry at large has long been telling stories that center on whiteness, and Eurocentric beauty features. For you, what story do you hope your work tells? 

I always think of this little girl I saw on the train once with her mom, she was about 6 or 7 with her curly hair tied up in a bun. I looked up and saw her looking at me, so I smiled, made a silly face, then put my head back down. A couple of minutes later I look back up, her hair is down, she has this huge smile on her face, she points to my hair (I had my curls out at the time) then points to her hair and smiles even bigger. I looked up at her mom and she mouthed "Thank you" and at that moment I realized how much of an impact just being yourself and being confident in your skin (and hair) can have. So I hope that my work helps the kids who are made fun of because of their differences to become more confident and fearless within themselves and to love themselves.

Which has been your favorite modeling moment you've had so far, and why?

It's hard to choose just one, but I would have to say Project Runway (S/S 17). I really enjoyed having the opportunity to be with 16 designers and seeing all the inspiration, creativity, determination, focus, and skills flying around the room. It was exciting watching the designers work their asses off every week, fighting for the same thing, and seeing everyone push each other past their limits. No one really knows what goes on behind the scenes so being able to take part in that and see it was I mean just inspiring and amazing.

What kind of story do you hope to tell through your clothing line, Sincerely Ria? How long have you had the line for?

I started Sincerely Ria at the beginning of the pandemic in 2020. The process gave me inner strength and confidence which I hope to share with everyone who is a part of Sincerely Ria. It was important to me now more than ever to create a community that lent a hand in inclusivity rather than exclusivity. Fashion luxury brands can be exclusive in terms of look and price. It was important to me to offer a product that was both affordable as well fit all body types.

Which modeling projects are you most proud of, and why?

I have been so fortunate to be a part of so many great campaigns. I don't have just one that has been my favorite. They have all been special to me in different ways. I've been fortunate to work with some of the biggest names in fashion such ​as Savage X Fenty by Rihanna, DVF, KKW Beauty, Revolve, Marc Jacobs Beauty, and more.

Describe your style in three words. Are there any brands or pieces you're personally loving at the moment?

Feminine, fun, and sophisticated. As for brands, I am loving Miaou, Farai London, and this cute new brand called ​Sincerely Ria​. Have you heard of it?

What kind of impact do you hope your work (modeling, designing, and acting) has on the industry?

I want to represent the underrepresented and inspire the next generation so that they know that there are no limits. It's important to show that you can do anything with hard work and dedication no matter what race, gender, or age you are.

You've been vocal in the past about the industry's tendency to only show support in a surface-level way. What would true inclusivity look like in your eyes?

It's important to have diversity in front of and behind the camera. The individuals making the decisions should reflect who the decisions are being made for. Companies should not only reflect the idea of inclusion. The change has to be made and made fast.

What inspired you to get into modeling?

While style and expression were something I learned about when I was a kid, I was adamant about dressing myself and took it quite seriously. I saw my style as a wearable set of feelings, which was probably why my outfits always clashed. I still see it this way, a chance to talk without words, transform into new, or simply just become. This feeling of freedom is exactly what inspired me.

Fashion over the past few years has had a reckoning with systemic racism. How do you think the industry as a whole can move past performative allyship?

Ahh. Now regardless of being a new face with Freedom Models, I know one thing's for sure: Inclusivity does not mean let’s include non-white folks for the sake of visibility and public appeal aka tokenism. It goes so beyond being seen. We want to be felt and understood. And for Black and Brown models, a big chunk of the misunderstanding takes place on set.

It's so often that a campaign or brand will call for a "diverse" group of models when the team itself is not. Or a queer group of models is asked to be authentic and bare their identity for an LGBTQ job and yet they are surrounded by cishet creators. More space should be made for people to tell their own stories, for all parties involved to be intersectional. And not for any performative benefit, but because it's what right—it's more true! What happens behind the scenes should reflect the message just as well as the models do, or else… What's really the message, you know?

Fashion and beauty are their own forms of storytelling—the industry at large has long been telling stories that center on whiteness, and Eurocentric beauty features. For you, what story do you hope your work tells?

I love this question. We all have things that make us a little visibly different. And for me, I've always felt like it's my birthmark. My mama says as I grow up I will find ways to become the person I needed as a child, so embracing my birthmark feels like just that. It used to bring me the deepest shame, my goodness. I'd cover it with hair and hats every day. It stopped me from doing the simplest things, like swimming, sweating, feeling a strong breeze on my face, etc.

In my early teens, I'd never seen a portrayal of beauty that included a person with a big ole mole on their forehead, and why not? It would be so beautiful if kids who aren't white, thin, straight, cis, able-bodied, hairless, blemish/beauty mark-free didn't have to spend their adolescence (and even adulthood) unlearning and relearning what beauty looks like. If they saw it first hand if they actually saw themselves!

Speaking of your work, your artwork features stunning imagery of Black women. To what extent are your illustrations an exploration of identity?

Ever since I came out, it honestly feels like everything I do is an exploration of my identity. Only natural that my work is too.

Next: These 5 Black Designers Are Painting the Future of Fashion

Today, the influence of streetwear culture is inescapable. As a witness to the evolving topography of the fashion industry, it's difficult to deny the shift in favoritism towards designers who can sell $500 logo T-shirts just as well as an immaculately tailored suit. A few years ago, the idea of a self-taught designer with little to no formal training helming a storied fashion house would sound almost implausible, but as the recent installments of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Matthew Williams at Givenchy shows, streetwear is king. 

Hypebeast culture has done much to significantly accelerate its popularity. Last year, Supreme was valued at $1 billion, making it the first streetwear brand to do so—showing the world that streetwear is a bona-fide force to be reckoned with, but the faces pictured wearing those four-figure sweatsuits and exclusive sneaker drops don't reflect the history of the culture I grew up knowing.

It's easy to get swept up in the allure of high-priced bomber jackets and designer bucket hats, but at its origins, streetwear was a mode of dress born out of necessity and generational defiance in Black and Brown communities. Looking at the mass of visual campaigns from streetwear adjacent publications and brands, I run into the same trope of the commercially viable female sneakerhead: often racially ambiguous, with loose curls and the modelesque physique to match. It's rare to see a representation of the Black women I knew who were first in line to buy the latest pair of Nikes. You'd almost forget that Black women like Mary J Blige, Misa Hylton, and SWV were some of the trailblazers of the culture who made wearing oversize fits and chunky gold jewelry cool. Frankly, there would be no streetwear today as we know it without the trendsetting influence of these women and others like them.

More and more as I make my way through the industry, the connection between its origins and the marketed appeal of today seems to slowly erode. The ubiquitous presence of its Black founding mothers doesn't feel as celebrated or acknowledged as their male counterparts. Part of the process of emphasizing the contributions of Black women into this narrative includes an honest discussion about what streetwear is today and where it's going. In an effort to acknowledge and place Black women back into the streetwear narrative, I wanted to speak to some of the tastemakers working to change the industry from the ground up. Ahead you'll hear from three Black women on the state of streetwear, their fashion icons, and what they're doing to shift the conversation.

Sandrine Charles wears several hats these days. A veteran of the PR world, Charles has counted some of the biggest names in streetwear including Kith, Noah, Aimé Leon Dore, and October's Very Own as clients. After launching her own public relations agency in 2015, she now devotes her time to running the Black in Fashion Council, an organization she co-founded with Lindsay Peoples, that aims to build connections and resources for Black fashion professionals. 

What are some of your earliest memories of streetwear?

My first introduction was in the late '90s/early 2000s, sneaking to watch BET. Knowing how I grew up as a first-generation Caribbean American, I wasn't even allowed to watch BET or MTV, so everything I learned about streetwear wasn't necessarily through all of the iconic stylists from the past, but from watching rap music videos. I was noticing all the brands like the FUBUs and the Baby Phats of the world, going, "Okay, that's what I need to be wearing. That's what I need to be buying." My school was very preppy in a suburban neighborhood, so it was different to incorporate those types of styles at the time. 

You worked closely with a lot of streetwear brands in the PR industry. How did that change your style?

After coming to New York City for college, my style started evolving through my experience working at various PR agencies and internships. I was also influenced by women like Misa Hylton, who is now an advisor for the Black in Fashion Council and just someone that I truly look up to and admire, and Vashtie, who I frequently saw a lot in SoHo since I lived in Tribeca at the time. Essentially, my evolution towards streetwear was through firsthand accounts because I didn't have the luxury of being exposed to that culture growing up.

Black women have a hand in setting so many trends in fashion. Did you see that type of representation working in PR?

When I was working at PR agencies, I definitely was the Black girl or the Black person. Once I got to a specific agency later on in my career, I was lucky enough to have a diverse team, and the brands they gave me were what they called the "streetwear" brands of the agency. From then, as I started owning different clients, like working with Ronnie to open Kith and launch Kith Treats, that's when people started to know me. But looking back, maybe not enough opportunities were given to us to be apart of streetwear in that way. However, I have now noticed an increased presence of Black publicists in the field. Years ago, I was always in L.A. and New York working on all of these big collaborations which also exposed me to so many different people from other areas in the fashion industry like Bephie from Union, who I looked up to, and so many more people you wouldn't necessarily know until you get familiar with the industry. After seeing this I'm like, "Okay, there is another me here" or "There is another me there."

Speaking of women like Kimora Lee Simmons with Baby Phat and Angela and Vanessa Simmons with Pastry, why do you think we don't see that kind of big brand ownership from Black women within the streetwear space?

That's a great question, and I really don't know. Before recent events, I don't think that people were investing in Black women or Black people, in general, so when we ask questions like, "Where were the investors? Where were these people to start a new brand?" I think a lot of these people were just trying to stay above water or work at companies where they knew that if they worked for a certain name they could elevate in the industry. That was really all that was said as "possible" at the time. I'm not saying that people couldn't go out on their own, but if you watch the trajectory of previous urban wear or streetwear brands, you may be a little bit more hesitant. There are so many amazing people who have worked for the FUBUs, Karl Kanis and the Baby Phats of the world who are in different spaces of the fashion industry today and still have a wealth of knowledge or enough ideas to start their own brand. And maybe they are or maybe they aren't okay with it. Starting a brand is expensive at a specific level, and at that point in time, it was different. I mean, now we have so many Black-owned brands—even over the course of a decade—who are turning pieces and collections every single season, but was it possible 15, 20 years ago? Not really. I'm not sure about the specifics, like what the cost of goods was, where they were sourcing their materials, how much it costs if they were being supported, or whether they were working two jobs to get there, or if there was like a silent investor, etc. However, we do know the ones that were around growing up impacted and inspired a lot of the non-Black-owned streetwear brands today. 

What changes do you think are necessary from the industry in order to change this?

I think it has to just be a conscious decision. You have to want to help Black women. You want to also elevate them in spaces where their talents and their resources will be recognized and utilized. And not just because we're in a space in time where people feel like they have to do it. It's so easy to find new talent now. I have met so many Black women working behind the scenes in this industry I wouldn't have otherwise known. Last year I had a call with a very well-known streetwear brand, and I was so shocked to know that the girl I was talking to on the other side of the phone, who was their publicist, was a Black woman. I said to her, "You're Black? Oh my god!" It was nice to see. So it's very interesting that as we continue to grow. People are getting these positions and their footing in different spaces.

Are there any Black women in streetwear that you currently look up to, or women-owned brands you have your eye on right now?

Well, Beth Gibbs or Bephie who owns Bephies Beauty Supply as well as Estelle Babenzien who is co-owner of Noah. Then you have so many new designers who are coming out through the Council that I'm getting to know like Sade who founded EDAS. I also like Glazed NYC too. I think there are so many veterans and newcomers that we'll see one hundred percent more growth. By the time I retire, I just hope that I can pass on the baton to Black girls either working for me or some of my mentees or just other Black women, in general. I hope that as an industry we continue to champion Black women in different spaces of fashion. And for me, whether it be streetwear or elevated streetwear or footwear, I think there are more spaces and chances that we should definitely continue to work in that wheelhouse where we are not in competition with each other. There doesn't need to be one at the table. 

Jourdan Ash is a journalist and content producer with a formidable knowledge of the ins and out of streetwear culture. Born from an edit test, her digital platform, True to Us, is focused on centering and normalizing Black women as the foundations of streetwear and sneaker culture. The brand also recently launched a collection of sweatsuits and T-shirts. Before becoming a music journalist, Ash worked for the likes of Complex, Married to the Mob and Vashtie Kola. Read ahead to hear her thoughts on what it's like to be a Black woman in the business.

What are some of your earliest memories of streetwear?

I've always been a solid streetwear/sneaker baby because my name is Jourdan. My mom had me when she was in her twenties, so I was always "Jourdan in Jordans," and that was the look. My mom was also my style icon. She played the tomboy and the relaxed, baggy '90s style very well, so even pieces that she had in her twenties, those are pieces that are now mine. When I got older, I was a Karmaloop girl. I was also into Rocawear and Baby Phat, but when it came down to me buying my own stuff, it was Karmaloop for me all the way. There's a store in SoHo called Michael K, and I was in there every week. 

It’s really weird because I ended up interning for every streetwear brand or store that I was in love with growing up. Married to the Mob was one of my favorites as a teenager, and I interned for them right after college. On the flip side, I wore Stüssy all throughout high school, but I didn't really get into Supreme until college. It was all about finding what I liked and knowing how to make it my own because I went to a high school where we had to wear a uniform almost every day. The only time we had to show off was on our dress-down days, and when those days came around, I made sure that I had on my fresh Married to the Mob with some H&M jeans and Dunks with the shoelace headband.

What was the moment that lead to the creation of True to Us?

A friend who works in journalism sent me a DM about a publication doing another podcast of the same show they already have that only features men. Right then, it was just like one of those moments where I realized I could be the change that I want to see, or I could complain about it. There are a lot of times where it's like, "I am being the change that I want to see, and I'm kind of tired," but it's also like, "What's stopping me?" In journalism, they sort of teach you that you have to have your name associated with a publication to succeed, but as the pandemic showed us, that’s not true. So many people I know have used their voices during the pandemic. Inspired by that, I did what I knew how to do best: I created my community. It was more so just bringing all of my people together because these were conversations I was already having separately with my homegirls on Twitter or in small Nike meetings. I was just bringing them all together in one place with True to Us.

What were some of those conversations brought up?

I think it's more so that the story that is being told or at least marketed within the streetwear and sneaker space is that Black women look one particular way. That's the biggest thing that I hear on and on, time and time again. I can ask the same question from different Black women, and they'll always say the same thing: "There's always this one girl with big curly hair who you're not sure if she's Black. Like she could be Black, but it's ambiguous. It feels like a token. She doesn't represent me and what I look like, or what my neighbor looks like." The issue is that she doesn't represent most Black women. It's like we're in this marketing space where brands think they can have one Black girl in their ads and that's completely cool. That's not enough. It’s the same rhetoric for everything—it's not enough that only one store did a women's exclusive drop for the recently released silver Jordan 1s. It's like women have to fight constantly to be seen and heard within the streetwear and sneaker industry. And that's why True to Us highlights different Black content creators in these spaces. We talk to different Black women in different areas of these industries.

You've been able to work at some really popular streetwear companies. Did you see many Black women in these spaces?

I actually didn't see that at all. In most places I interned, I was the only Black woman. At one of my first internships, I was one of two Black women, and I remember just working there fresh out of college on my days off from my full-time job. I was interning for a designer and DJ, and another streetwear brand at the same time, and none of them paid me. At first, it was like, "Okay, cool, I don't mind not getting paid if I'm getting some type of learning from it." And so I remember just sitting at my internship, you know, just waiting for something–and this is when that company was in its heyday–but I didn't learn anything. And then I just realized, you know, I'm spending my days off here to learn something about streetwear, to learn something about being a boss and I'm not really doing anything. So I left.

After that, I started interning for a well-known DJ and creative within the streetwear indsutry working on my lunch breaks for her. It was the same thing, though. I was just waiting for this moment where it's like we have this heart-to-heart and you tell me what it's like to be a Black woman in streetwear, to be one of the first Black women to have her own Jordan. Like, I was just waiting. I often found myself waiting on those moments that I try to give people through True to Us now. 

What did you learn about that experience?

I feel like I wasted a lot of time. I took the journalism route into streetwear because nobody ever told me how to get into that business. Nobody ever came to our high school during job fairs and said, "Hey, this is how you get into the industry. Even if you don't want to design your own stuff, this is how you do it. Even if you want to work on the marketing end, this is how you do it," and no one was ever there to tell us that. So for me, I was looking at Complex, I was looking at The Fader and I'm like, "Okay, well, this is my end." I got to intern with my streetwear idol and at cool brands I loved growing up, but I didn't learn anything. So I stepped away from it.

How do you view the industry now? 

I didn't really see too many Black women, although I think right now, I do see a lot of us. Some of these women come to me, and I still feel like I'm that little kid interning. I'm just still learning and soaking up so much. I just wish I had this six or seven years ago because I think I would have had a different path, or I would have come to this journey sooner. 

Which changes do you think need to be made in order for the streetwear and sneaker industry to increase diversity?

I need everyone to make right on all those goals and deeds that they put in place in June. When there was this social reckoning, and everybody was scrambling for how to support the Black community, right now especially during Black History Month, I need to see those receipts. That means you're actually doing the work. That means you're not just picking a Melody Ehsani for a collaboration, but digging deep into the girl who was always like Melody, who makes her own iterations of sweatpants or sketches sneakers on the train—it's tapping into that girl and tapping into that talent. Can we have another Aleali Mai sneaker? Absolutely. But can we have a sneaker made by the girl who looks up to Aleali Mai who will not design the same exact sneaker as her? Absolutely; there's space for both. It's just a matter of brands actually doing the work. That means, you know, not just picking models who are your friends, it means we're digging deep and we're not simply choosing the same five girls to appear in campaigns or events. Because you know, after a while, it's like, you look at marketing, and realize it's just the same girl. Or it's the same-looking girl but with a different name. 

What's something streetwear brands can learn from True to Us?

I don't think that these big brands are talking to people. They're not talking to the consumer. They're not talking to, you know, the girl who changes from her Hush Puppies into her Nike's on her way to school because she has to look fly in her uniform. They're not talking to these people who have the stories. I learned so much just by talking to people and sharing.

Banna Girmay is the woman behind the streetwear label Mama Banna, where she integrates elements of her Eritrean culture into its creative direction and designs. Her path to creating her own label was far from conventional. She worked as a lawyer for seven years before dabbling into her first love, fashion. Hear how Girmay built her own label and why she thinks more Black women deserve credit in the industry.

What compelled you to forge into fashion and create Mama Banna?

I first started taking sewing classes, and then little by little, the idea grew. It basically stemmed from me being a lover of fashion. I always felt that fashion was a way for me to express my beliefs and my cultural heritage, and looking at other brands out there, I just felt like my Eritrean background was notably missing from my fashion choices. There was really nowhere for me to go to kind of reflect that part of myself. Simultaneously, I noticed a lot of Eritrean and Ethiopian artists and creatives popping up, so I felt like there was probably a need for this type of fashion brand outside of myself, for the larger community.

Was streetwear a presence in your Eritrean upbringing or within the Eritrean community?

Back home, whenever we're called to wear a cultural dress, it's always for weddings or formal events, and we wear dresses. That's really the only way to express or retrain culture through fashion. Streetwear was not a thing at all. So yeah, that's also part of it. The whole idea behind Mama Banna was that I wanted to be able to wear stuff that reflected my cultural heritage, and not only during weddings.

I noticed that you included Brooklyn, Amara, and L.A. in your Instagram bio. Do you spend time in all of these places?

I included all three cities—Asmara, Brooklyn, and L.A.—in the brand's Instagram bio on purpose. I noticed that a lot of Black people have been going to the continent recently, and I would really love for us to have a tri-coastal lifestyle where we have another—or multiple coasts—that we can consider major creative hubs in Africa. I think that will be the future, the wave of more people going back to the continent will be so much stronger.

Obviously, with the pandemic, there are so many more people moving back home and as those people start integrating, like having their full lives out there more and more, I think there will be more reason to go visit. That was also part of the idea with Mama Banna. I'm from L.A. and Eritrea is on the East Coast of Africa right next to the Red Sea, so I see a lot of parallels between the coastal cultures. I didn't feel like African culture was really associated with a coastal culture that often even though there's this whole entire continent with multiple coasts. So that's something I hope helps to bridge the gap. I don't see why that can't also be part of the lifestyle.

Do any other streetwear brands inspire you?

I'm really inspired by Stüssy. I love how they have stuck to what they knew best, and everything they do is just beautiful. There's also this pride in wearing just a plain shirt that says Stüssy on it, in a different way than I think wearing a Supreme shirt does. You know when someone is wearing a Stussy shirt, it really feels like they are representing a certain belief system or values—like there's something with integrity behind it. And I look up to that and their ability to maintain that over so many years. I hope that one day, or even today too, that if someone were to be wearing Mama Banna or just mention Mama Banna that people would remember the values associated with that. I'd consider that aspect really important to me for my brand aside from the aesthetics. 

Everything from Mama Bana is self-funded and everything made is reinvested back into the business. Anything that's sustainable or lives for a long time I believe is built brick by brick, person by person, so even when I get just one new order or ten new orders from people I've never met and who really resonates with the brand, it really makes me feel like I'm building it right. The reaction has also been really beautiful from the community; I get messages all the time like, "Keep going," "Thank you so much for doing this for us," and "I've never seen anything like this before." I just think putting attention back into your own culture is a powerful thing to do because all of our stuff is cool. It just takes someone to really dig and present it in a certain way.

What changes would you like to see within the streetwear industry?

Definitely in streetwear, particularly, hype beast culture comes with the territory, but this fast-fashion approach to streetwear makes a lot of the pieces feel kind of empty. It just feels like all aesthetics rather than what streetwear was originally meant to do, to reflect a culture or a group of people and be something that everyone believes in. I would like to see people, not buy into that kind of emptiness of some of the drops that I'm seeing, and hope for more out of the brands rather than just buy a T-shirt because it's really cool and that's it. I want you to tell me a story or use the clothing in a subversive way, to express something. Everyone is kind of looking to make a statement with what they wear and use that real estate to really tell a story or project their own personal beliefs. And I just want that more from brands.

Luxury fashion using streetwear is also like this new territory because to me, the nature of streetwear is that it is accessible to people. It seems a bit contradictory to charge $1000 for a T-shirt that probably costs you like $5 to produce. I understand the concept of supply and demand, but I'm not quite sure how that will play out in the industry. 

One of the things that comes up a lot for me is that I don't see a lot of Black women at the forefront of big streetwear labels, getting the same type of recognition as say a Supreme. Is that something you feel in the business?

It feels like this happens a lot. It's like when Black people do it, it's called "urban," but if white people do it, it's called "streetwear." Or like with Justin Bieber, it was called "pop music," but when a Black artist does it, it's called "R&B." It's unfortunate that I don't really see many Black women in the streetwear space even though it was born from Black women.

Shop More Items From Black-Owned Brands

Looking back over the last 365 days, I can hardly believe all that's transpired. From a global pandemic to countless layers of social unrest and the spark of a movement that's seen Black folks and allies taking to the streets in the name of justice, it's as if a decade of events have been crammed into a short and extremely tense period of time. If you're feeling depleted, unfocused, or just plain unsure how to move forward, please know that these feelings are totally normal. But please also be aware that the work has only just begun.

For Black creators in the beauty space, this sentiment isn't new. As members of a devastatingly underrepresented group, these founders, CEOs, entrepreneurs, and dreamers know better than just about anyone that working harder to see baseline results is simply part of the Black experience. However, the true marker of success is the ability to push past the hardships and even use them to reach the sweet spots that can only be unlocked with untethered creativity, unapologetic authenticity, and relentless hard work.

Despite all the challenges presented over the last year, Black-owned beauty businesses are on the rise. Movements like the Fifteen Percent Pledge and Pull Up for Change have challenged brands and retailers to really look at their structures and make tangible changes to the way they approach diversity, inclusion, and equity. Now, it's your turn to show up. The black squares on Instagram were nice, but the time has come to put all that we've learned over the last year into action. Ahead, 13 Black beauty founders share their stories and their visions of how the support of Black-owned beauty businesses will grow and thrive in the years to come. Keep scrolling to learn more.

Abena Boamah, founder of Hanahana Beauty

Describe yourself in three words.

Enjoyment, intuitive, flexible.

What does beauty mean to you?

To me, beauty means a lot of things. Right away, what I connect it with is love for self and being able to take time to care for yourself. Beauty to me, in scope, is self-love—intentional self-love. 

What inspires you to create in the beauty space?

There's so much opportunity and space to actually create. There's so much room and space to take up. I think that's very inspiring. There's a lot of room to take up in this beauty space when you think about connecting sustainability in a very holistic way, especially when it comes to talking about Black women globally. There's so much opportunity for Black women, especially, to create and innovate.

What are some of the emotions that have come up for you as the plight of Black Americans has moved to the forefront of the collective consciousness over the last year, and how have these emotions helped or challenged you personally and/or professionally?

A lot of different types of emotions have definitely come up for me, from levels of frustration to the point of hope and also, sometimes, levels of hopelessness. But realizing how Hanahana has this platform where we can talk about issues or be a place where people can come to laugh or even to just take time for calm or be inspired in beauty has been really exciting for me—to know that we have that platform that we can utilize it in that way. It's definitely challenging at moments to even do work. We are a staff of Black women, from running our social page to the women that are creating the products, so everything that is going on is always affecting us. We just try as hard to take time for ourselves.

How can allies be helpful now, as it pertains to Black-owned beauty businesses? What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts?

Buying power is one of the biggest ways. Allies can obviously be helpful by actually purchasing products, sharing, and giving resources and opportunities. I think when it comes to the beauty space, there is so much opportunity, but at times, it doesn't even seem like it's feasible to scale when you're a small business, especially a Black-owned business. You don't even see the opportunities in scaling in a way that is for us. Continuing to create opportunities where people are receiving resources to scale, like vendor engagements or intros and all those different types of things. I think that's how allies in the beauty space can really help. And I think there are a lot of allies that are doing that, too, but it definitely has to go beyond social media posts. Social media is not the sustainable income for Black beauty businesses, so it's important to put your money where your mouth is.

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Beatrice Dixon, co-founder and CEO of The Honey Pot Company

Describe yourself in three words.

Communicative, aware, present.

What inspires you to create in the beauty space? 

I want to be the brand that inspires vaginas. The sheer fact that I have the opportunity to do so is what inspires me.

What are some of the emotions that have come up for you as the plight of Black Americans has moved to the forefront of the collective consciousness over the last year, and how have these emotions helped or challenged you personally and/or professionally?

Well, it’s beautiful to see the respect, attentiveness, and action toward the plight, but the mere fact that it has just now come into the forefront perplexes me because it’s always been here. Really, what it has done for me is show me that I must live on a high vibration and see things as they are. I think what’s important is that we come to this with what we have learned over the last 400 years and not what we have just started to pay attention to and learn in the last year. The construction of race was meant to keep us having this exact conversation… The good news is that this plight has awoken the world, especially here in the states. So many companies are putting humans and capital behind solving for the lack in our systems that created so much inequity, and it’s beautiful to be a part of that change in the world.

What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts? 

I don’t need anyone to prove anything to me. The only action that is the right one to see and feel is the one that’s real.

What advice do you have for Black humans who want to effect change in the beauty industry as you have? 

Know that you are capable of anything, even if it’s creating the next billion brand. But understand that if you choose to do that, then you should not be given a medal, and you are not extraordinary for creating such a thing. You are simply doing what you choose to do. I do not wish to make it sound like a simple thing to do, but I think it’s important to kill the stigma and ego that come with that.

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Dorion Renaud, founder and CEO of Buttah

Describe yourself in three words.

Driven, caring, passionate.

What inspires you to create in the beauty space? 

I’m inspired by every Black and brown face around me. I’m also driven by the impact Buttah is creating in our community by increasing visibility of us in the beauty industry. 

What is an accomplishment or goal you’ve achieved over the last year, big or small, that makes you feel most proud?

I can’t point to one thing because the past year has been so transformative, but a few that come to mind include the Los Angeles Times article we were a part of back in September and the launch of Buttah Body. I’m a Texas native, but I’ve been in L.A. for over a decade, and to be recognized by a city that I love and now call home means the world.

What are some of the emotions that have come up for you as the plight of Black Americans has moved to the forefront of the collective consciousness over the last year, and how have these emotions helped or challenged you personally and/or professionally?

The first thing I feel is pride. I have always seen the strength, the beauty, and the perseverance of Black people. The pain and inhumanity of racial injustice hurt, but it motivates me to continue to build a brand that empowers and uplifts our community. 

How can allies be helpful now, as it pertains to Black-owned beauty businesses? What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts?

It’s simple: Support us. Give us access to the same opportunities that our white counterparts have when it comes to starting a business, access to funding, and share resources.

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Jackie Aina, beauty and lifestyle content creator and founder of Forvr Mood

Describe yourself in three words.

Stylish, quirky, creative.

What does beauty mean to you?

Beauty means how I treat myself and how I treat people. I think beauty is a reflection not only of how you look outwardly but also how you feel about yourself and also how you treat people in that process. Do I put people above me? No, I never want to do that. I always want to be confident and be secure with myself but not at the expense of how I treat other people. 

What is an accomplishment or goal you’ve achieved over the last year, big or small, that makes you feel most proud?

This may be a small accomplishment to some, but just being alive in a pandemic is something we should all be proud of. I know that that sounds very cliché, but it’s something that I try not to take for granted at all. It’s something that I am very appreciative of. I launched a new brand in the midst of a pandemic, and that could have gone way left field. It's incredibly amazing, but I’m the proudest and I feel the most accomplished at just being alive, healthy, present, and still somewhat thriving. 

How can allies be helpful now, as it pertains to Black-owned beauty businesses? What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts?

I think allies need to stop looking for credit for being allies, and they just need to do what comes naturally to them. Do the same things that you do for your non-Black peers. The same way you’d walk into a store, buy a product, and not second-guess it, do the same thing for Black-owned businesses, and don’t do it for credit or accolades. Just live life the same way we do as Black consumers when we shop. Also be mindful that a lot of Black-owned brands operate at the level of small businesses, at least most of them that we’re aware of. Just be mindful of logistics like delayed shipping or a slower customer service response time compared to more established brands. I wish a lot of people were mindful of that and sensitive to that. 

When the outside world feels out of control, what brings you back to yourself and your mission?

I constantly try to focus on the things I can change. I can change my outlook. I can control how I react to certain situations. Even right now more than ever, I can control how much of the outside world that I am exposed to. Sometimes, it means unplugging for a day or two or even a couple of hours. That’s something that I am incredibly proud of. I’ve managed to build a really healthy relationship with social media. Social media can trigger a lot of negative things sometimes, and that’s one of the things that I can control. I can control how much of that I am exposed to, how frequently I’m exposed to it, and how much of that actually affects my mental health. 

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Jamika Martin, founder and CEO of Rosen Skincare

Describe yourself in three words.

Laid-back, self-starter, caring.

What inspires you to create in the beauty space? 

Other founders and brands, my own research around skincare (acne specifically), and the millions of ways we can approach innovative and meaningful solutions for our customers.

What are some of the emotions that have come up for you as the plight of Black Americans has moved to the forefront of the collective consciousness over the last year, and how have these emotions helped or challenged you personally and/or professionally?

I’ve felt a lot. Anger for this issue continuing to persist years after the public has been made aware of it. Hopelessness for the same reasons. But then, I feel hope for the movement of the conversation and the sheer number of folks getting involved. Specific to work, I feel wary of non-Black folks using our lives, work, and emotions as a checkbox for whatever they need to do to pat themselves on the back. The last emotion has particularly helped me with partnership selection as I navigate a space where everyone wants to partner with a Black-owned brand.

How can allies be helpful now, as it pertains to Black-owned beauty businesses? What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts?

In the beauty space or any other space, really, including Black people. Not just for marketing, not just for photo shoots or shade ranges, but for key decision-making. If you really care about the cause and Black people, create meaningful opportunities for them on the back end.

What advice do you have for Black humans who want to effect change in the beauty industry as you have? Are there any resources you’d recommend seeking out?

Connect with other Black founders and creators—it's one of the best steps I made to find a community where I feel so completely understood. Also, the New Voices Foundation is a top-tier resource for Black women–owned businesses. 

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Karamo Brown, co-founder of Mantl

Describe yourself in three words.

Transparent, fun, daredevil.

What does beauty mean to you?

I feel it’s our "imperfections," the very thing that makes you stand out from the rest. Embrace that imperfection, honey! 

How can allies be helpful now, as it pertains to Black-owned beauty businesses? What actions would you like to see beyond performative social media posts?

Our allies can add to our success stories. We already know our story. The people who are non-Black or people of color who truly respect our journey, it’s now their responsibility. It’s their responsibility to educate and communicate to their loved ones, co-workers, neighbors, etc. Help them see what the conflict is and why it matters. We are human and equal, not less.

What advice do you have for Black humans who want to effect change in the beauty industry as you have? Are there any resources you’d recommend seeking out?

I’ll say it starts with self. When I started balding, I listened to the masses in regard to what was considered handsome or beautiful. I realized one day that this was inevitable. Once I embraced the change, I started a new journey, and now, we have Mantl. We are all different and have our struggles, so use that and make it a success. You may think you are alone but trust that you are not. Let that be a driving force to help you and to help others.

When the outside world feels out of control, what brings you back to yourself and your mission?

That would be confidence! It’s such a great feeling when you know you have put your heart, energy, and knowledge into something. Whenever that’s the journey behind anything you do, whether it succeeds or fails, it’s still a damn win!

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Katonya Breaux, president and CEO of Unsun Cosmetics

Describe yourself in three words.

Sensitive, outgoing, adventurous.

What does beauty mean to you?

The idea of beauty has changed for me recently. If you asked a year or so ago, I would have responded by saying that beauty is looking great to yourself and to others. Today, however, beauty means so much more. It's about feeling beautiful and seeing the beauty in others. Feeling beautiful makes you want to care for yourself and your skin; seeing beauty in others makes you want to care for them. In this case, from where I stand, caring for others means offering quality products that are not only good for them but also good for the planet.

What is an accomplishment or goal you’ve achieved over the last year, big or small, that makes you feel most proud?

I'm proud of getting rid of plastic and switching to sustainable packaging!

What are some of the emotions that have come up for you as the plight of Black Americans has moved to the forefront of the collective consciousness over the last year, and how have these emotions helped or challenged you personally and/or professionally?

My heart has been warmed by the recent activities surrounding Black-owned beauty businesses. We were in the throes of concern due to COVID-19 in the early months, and the outpouring of support during those impactful days left me both hopeful and concerned. I was concerned that this was a "trend," and we all know that trends change. Black business should not be trendy; these are real lives that have had great impact on others. The support was tremendous, and I hope to see it continue.

What advice do you have for Black humans who want to effect change in the beauty industry as you have? Are there any resources you’d recommend seeking out?

To my Black sisters and brothers: Create the change that you want to see in this world. Push fear aside and go for your dreams. There are so many free workshops that can help you. Shopify has many as well as numerous other organizations. Seek out the support and benefit from others who have walked this path before you.

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