A Top Dermatologist Says This Is the Best Skincare Regimen to Treat Acne

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(Image credit: @thevicstyles)

For women all over the world, acne is a skin concern that's likely reared its head on several occasions throughout life. From breakouts in our teen years to surprising smatterings in adulthood, we can hardly remember a time when we weren't reaching for products to help nip zits fast.

Treating acne can be frustrating and complicated, so we turned to one of the best dermatologists in Los Angeles, Nancy Samolitis, MD, co-founder and medical director of Facile, to help break down the root causes, and the best treatment approach. First and foremost, she'll cover the leading acne-causing culprits to help us better understand what we're up against. Then, continue on to check out Samolitis's expertly curated skincare routine for banishing breakouts, once and for all.

What Causes Acne?

Culprit #1: Genetics

Despite our best efforts to care for our skin, sometimes acne and its contributors are just written into our genetic code. "The biggest contributor to acne is genetics," Samolitis says. "Some people are just programmed to have larger pores, more oil production, inflammatory skin, etc." That's not great news, but genetic or not, there are always solutions to help manage skin concerns like acne.

Culprit #2: Hormones

Hormones help to regulate everything from reproduction to stress, and according to Samolitis, they can also have quite a bit to do with acne. "Hormonal stimulation of oil production is also an important factor. This is obviously a factor in teens, where their hormones are just starting to rise, but is also very common in adult women—often for unknown reasons," she explains. "Certain hormonal medications such as the progesterone component of birth control pills, IUDs, and bioidentical hormone supplements can trigger acne."

Culprit #3: Diet

It's no surprise that what we put into our bodies has an effect on our skin. After all, just about every fad diet out there claims to be a road to clearer skin. Samolitis believes that there are specific foods to watch out for while actively treating acne, "in particular, foods that spike insulin levels like sugary or processed foods, " she says. "The hormones in meat and dairy that are given to farm animals may also play a significant role in acne, but this is poorly understood."

Culprit #4: Products

"Finally, use (or lack thereof) of certain skincare products can trigger breakouts as well." With the ever-growing selection of products available now, we have to be more cautious than ever when trying new things, as to not upset the skin's delicate pH balance. "This day and age, there are not as many comedogenic (pore-clogging) products and makeup as there used to be, but products that contain thick creams or ointments may lead to clogged pores and worsening of acne," says Samolitis.

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How Do You Treat Acne?

With so many different factors that could potentially be contributing to acne, it might feel like an impossible feat to figure out the best steps to take. And the truth is, there's no better place to start than by consulting a trusted physician to nail down a treatment plan. "If you have acne that is severe, cystic, scarring, and is resistant to skincare and treatments, it's important to seek treatment by a board-certified dermatologist who can assess and work up the acne, ruling out underlying medical causes," Samolitis implores. "There are many prescription treatments that are safe when used under proper supervision and can treat severe acne before scarring occurs."

In the meantime, our trusty expert has mocked up a skincare routine that will help anyone who would like to treat their acne. 

Your Morning Routine

Step 1: Cleanse

Step 2: Treat

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Step 3: Manage Inflammation

Step 4: Moisturize

Step 5: Protect

Your Evening Routine

Step 1: Cleanse

Step 2: Retinoid

Step 3: Hyaluronic Acid

Step 4: Moisturize

Step 5: Benzoyl Peroxide

Step 6: Spot-Treat

Associate Beauty Editor

Courtney Higgs is a Cancer sun, Libra rising beauty enthusiast with about six years of experience in the editorial space. She was previously Who What Wear's associate beauty editor after spending many years working on the West Coast edit team at InStyle Magazine. She graduated from California State University, Northridge, with a BA in communication studies and pivoted to editorial after spending her college years working in the legal field. Her beauty philosophy is simple: She believes there are no wrong answers and that discovering our favorite beauty products and rituals is a journey, not a sprint. When she's not geeking out over products, she can be found adventuring around L.A. with her fiancé; watching reality TV with their French bulldog, Bernie Mac; or relating way too hard to astrology memes.