Fall Makeup

Fall Makeup
Thursday, August, 14, 2008 As WhoWhatWear.com's resident beauty devotee, I shoulder the task of sorting through the shows each season and figuring out what impact they'll have on your makeup bags and morning routines. Obviously this is a pretty nifty responsibility and one that I enjoy tremendously. It's not that I don't enjoy the finer parts of fashion; I get just as worked up about Chloe's Milton Hobo (gray for me, please) as the next girl. It's just that I like the little pleasures of the beauty game: finding a polish color that catches my fancy (khaki-goldicon from Chanel), learning a new messy up-do (a French Twisted, if you will), or picking up a product that makes me wonder how I lived without it (Stila's Cherry Crush). On that note, I'd like to cordially welcome you to my Fall Makeup Picks and hope you enjoy a few of my favorite looks from the runway!

Bright Eyes
Eye makeup got the technicolor treatment this autumn, as the vivid hues we saw on nails and lips this spring/summer migrated up to the eyes. At Proenza Schouler, Dick Page created a turquoise delight by layering three lovely shades of blue eye shadow. He used Shiseido's Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow in H5 Aqua Shimmer ($23), H13 Clover Dew ($23), and H10 Languid Lagoon ($23) for the perfect azure pop. Gucci Westman chose equally electric shadow for the Behnaz Sarafpour beauty look. She achieved a shocking violet eye by applying MAC Pro Lipstick in Violetta to the models' lids instead of the usual shadows and liners. (You might want to try this with Urban Decay's Matte Eyeshadow in Purple Haze ($16), as it's slightly less messy.)

There are loads of interesting and lively eye makeup colors on the market right now, so please have fun experimenting. While I have no idea where I'd wear them, I think shu uemura's False Eyelashes in Violet Twill ($20) are wholly spectacular. On a more realistic note, I'm also quite fond of Benefit Cosmetic's Lust Duster ($18) in the purple Punk Royalty and Goldilocks because it gives the skin a lovely wash of color. If you're more of a green girl, try MAC's Powerpoint Eye Pencil in Tealo ($14.50)-it's the shade Tom Pecheux used for the boldly verdant beauty look at Catherine Malandrino. Regardless of your preferred hue, just balance out the brightness with a relatively nude lip. Gucci Westman's choice for the Behnaz Sarafpour show (MAC Lipstick in Myth) is one of the best options!

1. shu uemura False Eyelashes in Violet Twill ($20)
2. Benefit Cosmetics Lust Duster in Punk Royalty and Goldilocks ($18)
3. MAC Lipstick in Myth ($14)
4. MAC Powerpoint Eye Pencil in Tealo ($14.50)
5. Shiseido Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow in H5 Aqua Shimmer ($23)

Berry Bitten
It wouldn't be fall without some new take on the standard red lip and this season is no exception to the rule. Classics are great and all, but I'm much more intrigued by the wine/berry stained lips seen at Chloe, Donna Karan, and Erin Fetherston. The look has two major selling points: a berry bitten mouth takes about five seconds to apply and, depending on the color, it easily can go from girl-next-door to sophisticated vamp (I like adaptability).

Special lip stain products are not a requirement for getting this look-though they are great, more on that in a moment. At Chloe, Lucia Peroni merely rubbed MAC's deep plum Nightmothicon Lip Pencil ($13) on the center of the models' lips and blended it for a sexy pseudo gothic mouth. I'm also quite fond of the standout version Charlotte Tilbury gave the girls at the Donna Karan Collection show. She dabbed Lovelorn and Lady Danger Lipsticks ($14 each) onto the models' mouths with her fingers and finished the look off with a light coat of Desireicon Lip Glass ($14). Of all the looks, I have a feeling that my go-to day makeup look will be quite identical to the sweet style shown at Erin Fetherston. James Boehmer wanted the lips to look freshly bitten, so he first applied a bit of NARS Balanced Foundation to downplay any natural color and then used NARS Lipstick in Fire Down Below ($24) on the entire lip. (Just apply a few layers and blot to keep everything matte and stain-like.) He finished with a concentrated bit of NARS Lip Gloss in Bad Education ($24) in the center of the lip.

In addition the aforementioned fantastic products, I'm also wholly devoted to the Cherry Crush Lip & Cheek Stain ($24) by Stila. Used for the look at Charlotte Ronson and Marchesa, the stain comes in a tube with a brush on one end, so you can be very precise about where you place the product. Once the stain has set, I like to top it with a light coat of Smith's Rosebud Salve ($5.59) to keep my lips a little soft. Another must-buy is Nivea's Lip Care A Kiss of Flavor in Passion Fruiticon($2.49). It deposits the perfect moisturizing amount of color and it's a total bargain so you never feel guilty indulging in one (or eight) tubes!

1. Smith's Rosebud Salve ($5.59)
2. MAC Lip Glass in Desireicon ($14)
3. NARS Lipstick in Fire Down Below ($24)
4. MAC Lip Pencil in Nightmothicon ($13)

Heavy Metal
I want to make a pun about the Olympics and having some sort of medal/metal fever right now, but I'm going to stop myself. Instead, I'd like to draw your attention to the season's glam metallic makeup that manages to be strong and simple and seventies-inspired, all at the same time. Peter Philips (the Global Creative Director of Chanel Beauty) turned the gold up to 11 for Chanel's fall ready-to-wear runway show. He painted the models' lids from lash line to brow with a specially created fluid eye shadow for a true golden girl look. While the product was not manufactured for retail, Chanel's new Facette d'Or Limited Edition Highlighting Powder in Goldfevericon ($50) will help you get a similar-but a bit subtler-style. Pat McGrath created one of my favorite looks for the Nina Ricci show. She blended gold and burgundy shadows for a gorgeous gleaming eye (and how amazingly David Bowie-esque is the single vertical gold line?).

While the Chanel (and complete Nina Ricci) look definitely goes in the "inspiration" category, there were a few direct-from-the-runway versions I'm going to try out too. Gucci Westman produced a simple bronze style for J. Mendel that knocked my socks off and I'm also into the soft seventies look that Tom Pecheux created for Badgley Mischka. He used MAC's Eye Kohl ($14.50) in Tarnishicon and Chocolate Brown Pigment ($19.50) as a base, followed by a layer of Copper Sparkle Pigment ($19.50) and Reflects Gold Glitter ($17.50), and finished with a seafoam green pop of Newly Mintedicon Eye Shadow ($14.50) in the inner corner.

Of course, you don't need these specific products to get a metallic luster, nor do you have to confine this hue to just your eyes. OPI's new India-inspired collection of fall polish includes a golden metallic lacquer, Curry Up Don't Be Late ($5.99), that will work nicely. Chanel's Gold Fictionicon Polish ($30) will sure to sell out soon, so snap that up and why not get the previously discussed Highlighting Powdericon ($50) while you're there? On a personal note, there's a distinct possibility you'll find me attempting a Nina Ricci-style look with my pot of MAC Pigment in Golden Lemon ($19.50). The bright lemon gold with a shimmer works well on the eyes, but I also like to use a little on the cheekbones or even a tiny dab on the center of my bottom lip. My one major suggestion for this look is that you invest in a serious mascara, like the radical new Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Mascara ($27). I love how an inky lash looks next to a set of golden eyes!

1. OPI Nail Polish Curry Up Don't Be Late ($5.99)
2. Chanel Facette d'Or Limited Edition Highlighting Powder in Goldfevericon ($50)
3. Givenchy Phenomen'Eyes Mascara27)
4. MAC Pigment in Golden Lemon ($19.50)
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