It's generally accepted that you have to choose between a bold lip or a smoky eye, but Kristen Stewart proved otherwise at the Los Angeles premiere of On The Road. Makeup artist Jillian Dempsey wanted to give the actress even "more edge than normal" with a vampy lip and ruby-colored, smoky eyes to complement her menswear-inspired Balenciaga ensemble. Hairstylist Adir Abergel followed suit, creating an "androgynous, roughed-up ponytail." All proof that sometimes you have to break a few beauty rules to make an impact.Skin
To score Stewart's porcelain skin, Dempsey used Armani Luminous Silk Foundation ($59) in #4, buffing the edges with a wedge sponge. She went over any imperfections with a creamy concealer and a small nylon brush, but avoided applying blush on the apples of the cheeks, instead using Lancome's Blush Subtil Palette ($42) in Nectar Lace for contour. "Apply blush along the upper cheekbone with a fan brush," she says. Dempsey waited until she'd finished the entire look to dust on Laura Mercier's Loose Setting Powder ($35)--sparingly!--to keep things fresh.
To create a dramatic, ruby-colored eye, Dempsey used shades from Lancome's Color Design 5 Shadow & Liner Palette ($49) in Ruby Affair. "I applied the lightest color on the lid, then made a half moon on her crease with the darker shades and just kept building the intensity," Dempsey says. Once the eye had reached a dark, ruby color, she folded a tissue to make a stencil, laid it against Stewart's face, and brought the color up and out. "Then go over the line with a small, clean brush for softness," she says. Next, she applied Lancome's Long Wear Calligraphy Gel Eyeliner ($25) in Black Fishnet, gently smudging the color along the lash line. Dempsey curled the actress' eyelashes and applied several coats of the brand's Hypnose Star Mascara (28); "I build the lashes by moving the brush side to side and up and down," she says. As for the bottom lashes, she uses a separate small wand to reach each one. Dempsey defined Stewart's eyebrows with Kevyn Aucoin's The Precision Brow Pencil ($24) in Brunette, and set with Anastasia's Brow Gel ($21) in Clear.
Dempsey reached for Lancome's L'Absolu Rouge ($30) in Rouge Velour to give Stewart the vampiest lips possible. "I began on the lower lip, in the center, and followed the cupid's bow in a heart to determine the shape," she says. She filled in Stewart's lips, blotted off excess with one layer of a tissue, and set the color with the same Laura Mercier powder before adding one final coat of lipstick.
Abergel wanted a "ponytail that looked great from every angle," so he prepped Stewart's dry hair with Fekkai's Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel ($25), concentrating on the roots, before making a deep side part. He pinned the top section of hair out of the way, coated his hands with the brand's Coiff Nonchalant Piecing & Forming Wax ($25), and pulled the rest of the hair into a "perky ponytail" on the left backside of Stewart's head. "The sides of the hair need to be pulled tight and severe to make this style more modern and edgy," Abergel says. Once the ponytail was secure he released the top section, backcombed the roots for height, and set it with Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold Hair Spray ($25). He gently raked the top section back, twisting and pinning with criss-crossed bobby pins over the elastic, and into the ponytail. To finish, Abergel set the style with more hair spray and smoothed Stewart's locks over one shoulder--androgynous never looked so sultry!
Photo courtesy of Startraks.